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dietmd

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Everything posted by dietmd

  1. Having this same problem with Windows 11. -- HX Edit works fine. JTV plays via VDI cable fine, but Workbench does not see my Variax. Deleted and reinstalled all the drivers etc but no joy. Any suggestions>??
  2. Ditto to Wondo100. Not sure what th HF issue with the 212 is?
  3. I still have the same issue. Got 2- 112+'s in my studio and a 212 in my office. Seem to have the #2 112+ cut volume and need to reboot the Helix- #1 112+ then the #2 112+. Can be very frustrating!!!
  4. I want one too!!! Got a mint Acoustic 700 Sunburst but I want the 900 also!!
  5. I’ll give it a try later today!! Thanks for the help!
  6. I had this same question. I have two 112+s and a 212. I'm assuming this is the same for both setups?
  7. Any reply from support on the lost signal issue with low volume? I have two 112+'s and haven't lost signal but I'm not sure how to edit IR's on them via HX edit? Do you have to connect the USB on each of the Powercabs to use the PowerCab Edit software or can you run or control this via the L6 Link cable? I can't figure out how to edit the Powercab IRs or get the Powercabs to change IR's with anything but Powercab Edit via a USB cable. Am I right or just not getting it? Do I need to plug in each Powercab by USB as well as L6 Link?
  8. Amsdenj thanks for the suggestion but the pickups are definitely not too high. Lace Sensors per the manufacturer should be as close as possible without hitting the string. Mine are actually set to 5/32". with plenty of room. Loine Poor Boy thank you for the lead with McMaster. I will definitely try them out. Psarkissian do you know anything about the specs of the screws? I can measure the diameter with a digital micrometer but I have nothing to tell me the thread? Help if you can. Thanks everyone for your input!! We will prevail over this Devil!!
  9. I totally agree!! if you look at my photos above you can see exactly what I’m talking about regarding the saddle location. I’ve had to move it that far to intonate it just ~ properly otherwise it intonates flat. I mentioned this before. The Low E on this guitar is possessed! It is evil!!
  10. I’ll contact them. I kind of don’t think they will have anything “custom” like a longer screw unless it’s something L6 offers with a part number? It’s a part of a part? I’ll contact them and inquire. It’s not on their L6 parts listing on their website.
  11. Any Idea where I can find a longer Saddle Screw for the E string on my LTV-69? It's apparently a weird size and I can't find one locally. I think it would be more stable with a little more "meat" on the Screw!!
  12. Yes, I replaced the bridge several --years ago. (I've got it in a box on the shelf) Funny you should say that about the nut!! I'm waiting for the Tusq XL Nut as we speak. I spoke to Grey up in Canada on Friday and he's shipping some to me. I ordered two of them with the replacement GraphTech piezos that I haven't used yet. We somehow got the wrong ones sent to me.
  13. She's a Sunburst 69 SSH. I don't think you evaluated her. Her Serial Number is W10080068. I finished crowning and polishing the frets no Buzzing at all but still have some lousy overtones on the low E String. Not really ghosting but weird overtones. Does it with both Mags and Piezos so it's a mechanical issue. One other Peculiarity about this guitar. Unlike every other guitar I own in order to intonate the Low E the Saddle is almost at as far to the extreme of it's travel toward the nut as the screw will allow (opposite to every other guitar I have!!). Two or three threads are about all that is holding the saddle to the tailpiece. (Maybe that's where the overtones are coming from?) As a matter of fact if you have a longer saddle screw I'd appreciate it!! Any additional suggestions would truly be welcome!! Doc H.
  14. I will do as you suggest and log in a ticket. The guitar is more than 5 years old and well past it’s warranty period, I’d be happy to let you evaluate it. I’m about to start fret polishing since leveling and re-crowning yesterday. Thank you for your interest and offers of assistance. Doc H.
  15. Psarkissian, All Piezos working fine. I bought two extras from Full Compass just in case of disaster but have not used them and had no issues. I also bought a full set of GraphTech Piezos to do the full mod mentioned in other threads earlier but haven't taken that plunge yet. I figuring I'd try my mods first. So far so good. No issues with the Piezos other than the Pinging is gone as is the Ghosting I heard before. All of the Piezos moved around in the saddles loosely when the guitar was played. That couldn't have contributed to good tone or stability. They definitely moved around laterally when stretching a string or using the trem. We are way out of warranty on this guitar and I have heavily modded it. I replaced the entire tailpiece from the original version one to the updated model as you can see in my photos, the factory bridge posts were replaced with locking posts and I added a Mighty Might Neck, Lace Sensor Pickups, Hipshot Tuners, Changed Pick Guard etc. I realize your concern and appreciated your warning about damaging the Piezos but as far as I can tell it's going from marginally playable to a go to instrument. I've got another JTV-69 SSS and it's totally stock. It has none of the intonation or Pinging./Ghosting issues and unless it develops problems I plan on leaving it alone. My JTV-59 is fine as well. Only this JTV-69 SSH which I've heavily modified has had problems since it was first purchased. It has been to several Master Builder Luthiers here in Atlanta and none could get this instrument to play properly. At this point it's become a Challenge. I will make it work!!!
  16. Won't let me put in another photo but you get the idea. Seems to be working
  17. Got all of the Piezos surrounded by Copper Foil and am in the process of leveling and re-crowning. Thought I'd include some photos of the Foil placement process. No more pinging and the ghosting appears to be gone. There is no side to side movement of the Piezos in the saddles at this time and they are relatively tight in their spaces.
  18. I’m thinking about changing my JTV-69 Saddles to the Graph Techs named above. I know it’s been a while are you still happy with the conversion and have you had any problems since changing the saddles? Please let me know if you still required an additional change to the electronics to get this to sound right. — Thanks.
  19. Actually I just put a small slot in a tiny piece and placed it around the Piezo wire and pushed the Piezo into the saddle making sure I didn’t kink the wire. I will tell you it is very tight now and I haven’t tried to get it out but unless it fails for some reason I don’t see a reason to remove it from the saddle. I’ll try to take a photo later and put it on the feed. So small I don’t know if it will be able to be seen. I also sanded the Piezo slot with 2000 grit paper wrapped under an old piece of low E string. This polished the slot. Evidently the outer Piezo housing is some kind of very soft metal and the string abraded the slot rather badly. I’m not sure how long this will last?! For now the ghosting and ping has disappeared. ‘I did some recording last night but the fret buzz was overshadowed but the amp distortion that’s got to be next on the agenda. I still might go to a totally different piezo type by Graphtech but I’d like to hear how that worked out for the guy that tried it a few years ago. I read it in another post that they needed some kind of low hz op amp to work. Now you’re over my pay grade!
  20. I put some very thin copper foil (the adhesive type I use for lining electronic cavities) surrounding the piezo. It's very tight and now the piezo doesn't move in the carrier. I also polished and deepened, the front slot in the carrier as it appeared to be contacting the sides of the string when it was vibrating. I noticed that the slot in the surface of the piezo was very rough. Enough to file off some of the tip of your fingernail in the slot. Seems the E string ghosting and pinging is gone but I still have some fret buzz. I'm going to do some more fret leveling and polishing. If that doesn't correct things I may replace the whole tailpiece again with Graphtech saddles or attempt a Fishman replacement. JTV-69 or Bust!!!
  21. I have this same problem with all my JTVs!! I have a JTV-69, JTV-69s and a JTV-59. As far as I can tell I can move the Low E string Piezo side to side in it's little "carrier" and get a little pinging sound. I also get a slight ghosting sound when playing it w/o an amp. I am going to try and put some bees wax or something else in the Piezo carrier and set the Piezo in avoiding damage to the electronics. If that works I may even Epoxy the Piezos into their spaces. I have 5 Variax's in all and have had lots of this kind of issue with the JTVs. My old Variax 600 and 700 Acoustic don't have any of these problems. All three of my JTVs do! It's just got to be something to do with the housing that cradles the piezos in the tailpiece. I went as far as replacing the neck and entire tailpiece including Piezos l on my JTV-69 HSS thinking it was something neither I nor a pro Luthier could figure out!! Still does it!! Going to figure this out!!! Very Very Frustrating!!
  22. dietmd

    Powercab Edit

    Nothing works!! Still trying to load my 3Sigma IRs onto a Powercab 112 with no success. Seems ridiculously difficult. L6--- FIX IT!!!
  23. Ended up buying a 2nd FH1500. Got them set up flat w/o any effects and stored a user setting for the Helix on each one. Just stays there. I was going to buy two PowerCab 112 Plus's but the more I thought about it the less I liked the idea. (Got the 2nd FH1500 for less than the price of a PowerCab Plus!!!) Sounds really great- Loud as hell. No limiting or extra compression going into the guitar inputs on the FH1500s. Would love to AB with a pair of PowerCabs and the FH1500s. The opportunity just hasn't presented itself. If L6 follows it's usual pattern they will be coming out with a PowerCab 212 Plus at which time I might jump on that bandwagon. Till them I'll hire a strong man to move my FH1500s when I'm playing out and need stage volume. (Amp in room and all that!!!)
  24. dietmd

    Amplifi mods

    I realize it's a warrenttee void but has anyone figured out where in the circuit of the Amplifi 150 you could get a direct input into the preamp/ power amp section. I want to connect directly to the stereo amp area with a stereo line level external preamp (Heix) bypassing the on board effects perhaps adding a pair of 1/4" inputs (a la a return circuit) and or XLRs. I'm not a tech but this should not be that hard to do and would make my Amplifi 150 which is gathering duct usable again. Secondly - is it possible to BlueTooth two Amplifi's at the samw time? (or Firehawk 1500s for that matter!!) ANY ONE PLEASE!!!!!!
  25. I know this sounds nuts because I believe the FH1500 has the capacity to run all 6 speakers directly from a Helix w/o all the special gyrations and wiring hookups!! I do think there should be a Firmware upgrade that could make this happen easily. I firmly believe that there is a market for a Helix Amp/Speaker (with an L6 Link!!) to serve this specific purpose. I'm actually thinking of buying a second FH-1500 to use for this purpose to connect to my Helix. I have to admit that the thought of schlepping around two 65 pound amps makes my brain / back / butt hurt but I really don't want a SoundSource speaker as my principle guitar rig!! Another thought is to try and find someone who can Modify the input circuit of a Firehawk to accept the two line level outputs from a Helix and allow me to use all 6 FH 1500 speakers in a "Stereo" configuration. An additional idea from the "3rd Rock from the sun" would be to purchase an Amplifi 150 (getting pretty cheap now and I already have one!) and use the guitar inputs on each of them. I'm a bit reluctant with this thought as the Amplifi is small and fairly light but doesn't seem built to be terribly "Gig" worthy and I'm not sure that two of them would give me the stage level sound reinforcement I really want. Open to suggestions!!!
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