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OmniFace

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  1. Steps to reproduce: Are you using the full amp+cab for this? or separate cab blocks? (Don't know if the Stomp is different than the full Helix) If you use the full amp+cab, you could try moving the mic position in one cab section to see if it doesn't anything. No idea if L6 compensated for phase when adjusting that or not. What cab and mic settings are you using? Could also try adding the Simple Delay to one side with a 100% mix and 0% feedback. It'll let you set the Time as low as 0, and increment 0.1 ms increments.
  2. OmniFace

    Power Cabs?

    I've read this thread a couple times and I'm still not sure what the real question is regarding stereo... lol But since I own 2 PC212+ and a Helix and use stereo set ups I'll comment: Stereo is the default when using L6 Link in this setup. The patch has to have something obviously stereo going on to be useful though. So a stereo mod, reverb, delay, etc, and no mono FX after. If you're doing a 7CM, you'd presumably have a bit of work cut out for you to properly send each side to one amp properly. I've messed around with the same stereo patches using a single PC212+ when I don't want to mess with setting up both at home. The stereo field on the single PC212+ is really good IF you are in the middle and stand close to the amp. As you move back, the stereo image starts to merge. However, the PC212+ has an internal stereo setting to expand that to 200%, which I haven't tried. That should hypothetically make it work better even further back. --- Two PC112 would work very well for stereo. You can space them on either side of the stage like I do, but they're small enough to fit nearly anywhere. They're smaller and lighter to carry. They're cheaper too. BUT, they're a lot quieter as far as I know. So if you're relying on them to provide stage volume, the 212 may be a better bet. That said, I'd wager that most gigs are just using a (real) mic' on the cab, the PC212+'s mic sim output on the XLR (if using the speaker mode), or just the Helix IR (if using FRFR mode). My bassist really appreciates having the second PC212+ on his side because he can tilt and control the volume independently of mine. So we're never having to deal with the sound man's guitar mix to the stage. --- IMO, the Stereo Imager in Helix 3.0 is probably the same effect in the PC212+. It's probably just playing with the phase to expand the two signals. But that's just an assumption. My primary use of stereo in my setup is to use the Double Take. I am usually using in-ear monitors, and the Double Take works awesome in headphones with a mix to make room for the vox and drums up the middle. But, I usually run a mono output to my PC212+ for gigging because the audience doesn't care. There's also phasing if the two sides of the signal are merged into mono. So, my patches are set up to add Double Take to the Digital outs as the last block, but no Double Take on the Analog Outs. I was using the external Mimiq pedal for this, but the Helix FX is pretty much as good in practice. I've tried Double Take with the physical cab sends and it's OK as long as the amps are far enough apart. But when they're close together, or using a single PC212+, the signal begins to collapse to mono and the phasing becomes pretty obvious. The Helix also sounds great. I don't feel the need to have a real amp in the chain at all, and the ability to simplify my load out is pretty awesome. I should qualify that I've never actually owned a real amp though. The Line 6 stuff was just always way more affordable, versatile, and able to be used in places like an apartment and or headphones.
  3. FYI, the firmware V3 notes this bug fix: "When synced to external MIDI clock or retriggering via TAP, certain models with tremolo circuits' LFO set to square wave would invert the waveform–FIXED" This does not affect this particular issue. Re-rendering a sine wave with the tremelo on it still has a different time offsets.
  4. Appreciate the update with a citation.
  5. According to the manual any IRs you import via PowerCab Edit need to be: mono .wav file 48Khz 24-bit 2048 samples if not, it would presumably not work - i.e. there would be no sound
  6. I don't think I buy that... Sounds like a myth to me... Physics wise, the speaker cone is mounted around the basket on the edges and suspended by the magnet in the middle. Placing it up or down would hypothetically result in identical strain on the basket edges and pull from the magnet, just in different directions. I.e. Gravity isn't going to pull on it harder whether it's upside or downside. It WOULD behave differently than a standing position as it would be pulled horizontal to the speaker plane. But realistically the forces and weight of the cone during transport is negligible compared to the strain it experiences when being played. It could hypothetically be even better on it's front/back since any bumps in the road would simulate the speaker moving in/out rather than up/down. Same with the things attached. They're suspended either end, and gravity will simply determine which way they're pulled. However, they could be mounted in a way that the wire (or whatever) is experiencing compressive vs tensile forces (gravity pulls it into the mount, vs pulls it out of the mount). To add, depending on how things are mounted to the basket, laying face down might be better for it, as the components my have a place to sit on rather than be suspended by their joints.
  7. Hi think there's a volume attenuation option patches. I wonder if it's loading the impulse then applying the volume attenuation. Try setting the attenuation to 0 on a patch and switching back and forth to see if it stays more consistent? It may not work well since you could be clipping the model that way, but it might give a clue as to whats wrong in the design.
  8. Haven't tried the Pod go. Your patches or output need to be loud going into the PowerCab too. You should be aiming so that the input lights on the PowerCab turn yellow, but not (or rarely) red. If they're green, it means the signal you're pumping into it isn't that loud, and it doesn't have enough power to make it as loud as you'd like. You can increase input gain without affecting your patch tone by: 1) Turning up the Pod go master volume 2) Turning up the volume in the Output section of the patch 3) Set the Main Out Level to Line in the Global settings 4) Using Balanced cables to connect to the PowerCab (TRS, not TS). Balanced cables are ~6 dB louder (twice as loud) because they send 2 signals that are merged into 1 at the end for twice the amplitude. 5) Increase the Input Gain in the PowerCab's global settings. You can increase the patch volume, but potentially affect your tone by: 1) Turning up the Channel volume in the amp sim, which will affect other things after it in the chain. 2) Adding a compressor to the end of the chain, which will squeeze some more volume out of the tone.
  9. OmniFace

    Reverse Gain Effect?

    Your song sounds like the distortion swells up a bit too. The auto swell is just an automatic volume pedal basically. To get the distortion to react to it, starting clean and increasing in distortion, you need the auto swell before your distortion (pedal or amp). If you put it post, it will just sound like the volume changes.
  10. The point of the PC for me is a FRFR system for the Helix. Helix has bass amps and such as well. PC does a good job with bass overall, but can't quite do the low end. So a sub would just be an easy way to address that while still using the PC as a mostly FRFR rig.
  11. Yep. The speaker has some lower, but it does potentially start to "fart" when dealing with the really low end stuff at a reasonable band volume. So I would prefer to high pass it at ~70 and then include a sub with a low pass at 70 which can handle that area more effectively.
  12. I own two PC212+ and use a Helix to chain them with L6 Link. When doing so, one PowerCab gets the Left side and one PowerCab gets the Right side of the stereo image. The output block on the Helix has access to control the PowerCab speaker mode, as well as the model selection. This can be set globally, or per patch. You can also control the speaker model on each the left vs the right separately. I'm not sure if you use two cabs whether you can set one cab to flat and one to speaker model. Based on my recollection of the options in the UI, I think the answer is probably no. However, since you can set the settings per patch (and probably even snapshots), you should be able to switch from speaker to FRFR and back as needed.
  13. The PowerCab is intended to take Line Level input from a preamp device such as a Helix. Most tube amps can connect to it via the Effects loop, but would need a load box on the speaker output to avoid blowing the transformer. Interestingly, the Revv D20 looks likes it actually has a built in load box which would allow you to output a Line Level signal without plugging into a speaker. Based on this, you should theoretically be able to connect the two. That's pretty cool. First, push the button on the back to select the "Internal Load", or leave the speaker disconnected (it supposedly automatically loads it if nothing is connected). Then take the Two Notes Balanced Ouptut and connect it to the PowerCab. This output has it's own Power Section and Speaker IR from the amp, so you'd want to set the PowerCab to FRFR to act like a PA speaker, as you would with the Helix if you had cabinet sims enabled in it. Alternatively, you should be able to take the FX Send output instead and run that into the PowerCab line in. This will not have the Power Section or Speaker IR however, so you would then want to choose a speaker model in the PowerCab or run it in pure speaker mode with no tweeter. It may be possible to get the IRs used in the Revv D20 from the company and load those into the PowerCab directly. In which case they'd presumably sound identical with either option. Though the balanced output would be better due to lower noise floor and more output from balanced connections.
  14. If it seems to be tone buzzing, my guess is that you're clipping digitally? It could be clipping internally on the Helix, or into the PowerCab, or even in the PowerCab itself. Put the "cursor" on the output block of the helix and view the new VU meters. See how loud it is and turn down the output as needed. Turn up the PowerCab to compensate if needed. Try a limiter or compressor before the output so you can reduce peaks while still getting more volume. View the ring on the PowerCab while playing. If it's clipping the input it will blink red each time. Again, turn down the Helix, and turn up the powercab to compensate if you havee headroom. If you are using any speaker sims or things in the PowerCab it could be clipping internally there instead. You can edit the settings to turn down the digital volume in the PowerCab until the buzzing goes away.
  15. Is it a physical buzzing, or a tone buzzing? One of my PC212+ will physically buzz if I run a bass guitar through it and turn it up a little. The other does not. Seems like a loose cable or something inside is rattling on the speaker or cabinet.
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