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OmniFace last won the day on July 18 2020

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  1. "noise is added because it masks aliasing noise" I believe what you're referring to is Dithering, which is used when converting an audio signal into a lower bit depth. Normalization is simply raising or lowering the amplitude of the entire track. It doesn't alter the sample rate or bit depth of the signal. It merely says that a audio data point sitting at say -6 dB is now -4.7dB. But it does that for all data points, meaning that means that the S/N ratio stays constant. Both get louder or quieter in equal amounts at the same time. However, using an external interface rather than the USB does mean the signal has to be converted from D to A, then A back to D again. That said, I'd wager that converters these days are such high quality you may have to run them through conversion hundreds or perhaps thousands of times to hear a difference. Plus it means going through the interface hardware coloring the sound in whatever way that device does. That can impact the S/N ratio because the interface will introduce its own noise, and setting the Helix output and hardware input will be important.
  2. "so it'll be 70Hz on the low end, too." Not necessarily. Having multiple speakers means more surface area. This results in better low end response. This is why subwoofer speakers are usually larger sizes like 15" or even 18". That said, the manual does state all PowerCab models have a range of 70Hz-20KHz. So, you're correct in the end. :) The 112 vs 212 presumably have their own EQ compensation curves (for multiple reasons), and the fact that they have the same response listed in the manual means they presumably account for the different bass response down to 70Hz. I bet the 212 has better low end response below 70Hz though, due to the doubling of surface area, but L6 doesn't provide a chart to look at.
  3. Admittedly I only parsed much of this topic after the first several comments. But I don't think I've seen anyone point out how USB works. The USB B port is universally meant to connect a "peripheral" device to a computer. In this case, the Helix is a peripheral device. It will send data from the USB B port, but you need a computer with device drivers to talk to it... In fact the computer does the talking for the most part. It controls the conversation. Computers have the USB A port, universally meant to receive a connection from a peripheral device. You'll notice that any wireless MIDI device you can buy generally has a USB A port. Some could have the new USB C connector possibly, but I didn't look. Regardless, the device can talk over USB, but it's meant to talk to a computer. It's not meant to talk to another peripheral. You can't take a peripheral device and make it talk directly to another peripheral device. They don't speak the same language, nor can either control the conversation. For example, you can't connect the Helix to a Printer. It wouldn't make any sense anyways even if you could (like if everything had the newer USB C connectors). Both are made to talk to computers only. In short you can't connect a wireless midi device to your Helix without a computer in between. Unless Line 6 makes a wireless midi device specifically for this purpose, which can talk to the Helix directly and control the conversation as a computer would, it won't happen.
  4. The cabs are basically FRFR. However, the PC212+ is only flat down to 70Hz I believe. The 112 would be higher. I've tried bass through my PC212+ and it doesn't work well. If you like the 60's rock midrange sound it's fine, but if you need the lows you'll need a sub to be happy - unless you're just doing low volume bedroom jamming.
  5. Way late, but the answer is obviously no. Line 6 would need to do an update to add the Input "Mode" option to the 1L input as well. Good request to put into IdeaScale? I'd love to see this too, since the PC212+ is stereo, and I use Line 6 Link to connect to my helix. That leaves both XLR inputs open for other uses.
  6. No. With a traditional wireless radio it might work because it's just radio waves. But these are digital and two competing signals sending 0s and 1s will just cause interference and the receiver won't be able to convert those 0s and 1s into usable audio.
  7. BTW you can also use the Relay G50 transmitter with the Spider V, and probably with the Yamaha as well since they're both designed for the G10. In the Spider V you can pick the wireless channel in the amp, but with the Yamaha you can use the mobile app to assign the channel, or sit and step through each G50 channel until it start to work.
  8. The PC212+ is supposed to be flat down to about 70 Hz. I'm sure the roll-off after that is significant. It's really not designed for bass, which is fine. But like a said, a PowerCab Sub would be really cool to fill that low end in to make it versatile for guitar and bass.
  9. Most of this thread is super old, but to add: I own two of the PC212+. These do not do well for more modern bass tones where lots of low end is desired. You could get away with classic bass tones from say the 60's that were mostly midrange though. Even with two of these it's missing most of the low end oomph. As Sub would be very helpful.
  10. OmniFace

    Output Questions

    Ah. I didn't catch that this is for Bass guitar. It's bass, right? You're running a clean amp sound and some distortion on top of it. You're not talking about switching between a clean and distorted tone. --- Now that I understand the need, I would just try to set your two paths to two different output types and pan things center. Send your Clean out of the 1/4" output (set to Line level in the global settings) Send the Distortion out to the XLR output (set to Mic level in the global settings) Set your Global Settings > Ins/Outs > Headphones Monitor to Multi (1/4"+XLR+Digital+USB 1/2) This should mean your clean sound is on the 1/4". He can convert that to a Mic level with a DI box. Then your distorted sounds come out the XLR. (Or swap the clean and distorted signal outputs). Finally, your headphones use both at the same time so you can hear then together and panned center. If your sound man doesn't have a DI box you can get one for as low as like $20 bucks: https://www.sweetwater.com/c957--Direct_Boxes?sb=low2high --- The headphone jack mono adapter will work too, but you'll lose the ability to hear anything in stereo through the headphones. This will also let you keep any stereo FX if you wanted. They'll be mono for the sound guy, but stereo in your headphones.
  11. The differences between A+D and B+C are probably pretty minimal. They're quite close to each other. You probably could hear a difference, but my guess is that it'd be so subtle it really doesn't matter. Who knows? Maybe someone with a Variax can use Workbench to emulate it and see how it sounds. :) One thing to keep in mind about "hot pickups" is that it's more than just volume from the pickups. You can always get a gain pedal (or add one to the chain in Helix) to increase the volume before the amp. But, hot pickups often distort the signal a little bit on their own just due to the nature of the pickup design. This results in some harmonics and tone characteristics that make it different than simply boosting the signal. In general, I'm not really one of those guys that worries about pickups much. IMHO, differences in pickups (of the same style, e.g. humbucker to humbucker or p90 to p90) are usually quite subtle. They differences they make are easily overridden by the signal chain, especially the cabinet and mic model. Even new vs dead strings are way more important than the pickups to me. IF I was going to concentrate on pickup selection it would be about trying to find ones that are more or less articulate. A hot pickup will "blend" the sound a bit more out of the guitar due to the previously mentioned distortion, while a less-hot pickup may be better at allowing you to hear each string a bit better. But hey, maybe I'm full of sh*t because I haven't gotten into swapping pickups.
  12. OmniFace

    Newibe Thread

    Since this is about the Variax, I'd probably post it over to https://line6.com/support/forum/37-variax-instruments/ I haven't tried Variax in like 10 years, but my experience then was that they were quite good except palm muting always sounded a bit weird. I also didn't really like the guitars themselves and wish they made an installation pack. Warmoth came out with Variax routing for a while but you still had to buy a Variax and strip the important stuff out to move it. The newer models are a lot nicer though. The Helix is great. I have the Floor. LT seems to do most everything the Floor does, but has fewer connections. If you're not going crazy with routing, you probably don't need the Floor...
  13. The key for the D20 is to use the built in XLR DI output with no cab connected (or the load box enabled) to go into the PowerCab. However you connect the rest should be OK.
  14. How low is it? As noted above, you often want the average volume to be around -18dB in your DAW. This is "dB Full Scale" or dBFS. That correlates to around 0dB that you see on an analog VU Meter. (0dB = -20 dBFS). If you're too far below that, it means that your signal chain within the Helix is probably too low. You'll need to turn up the Channel volume on each. Or use a Gain block at the end of the signal. If you're close, I wouldn't worry about it. You'll only lose a little bit of signal to noise ratio, but guitar amps are already noisy. So just turn it up in your DAW with the clip gain or a gain plugin to compensate if needed.
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