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OmniFace

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Everything posted by OmniFace

  1. OmniFace

    Reverse Gain Effect?

    Your song sounds like the distortion swells up a bit too. The auto swell is just an automatic volume pedal basically. To get the distortion to react to it, starting clean and increasing in distortion, you need the auto swell before your distortion (pedal or amp). If you put it post, it will just sound like the volume changes.
  2. The point of the PC for me is a FRFR system for the Helix. Helix has bass amps and such as well. PC does a good job with bass overall, but can't quite do the low end. So a sub would just be an easy way to address that while still using the PC as a mostly FRFR rig.
  3. Yep. The speaker has some lower, but it does potentially start to "fart" when dealing with the really low end stuff at a reasonable band volume. So I would prefer to high pass it at ~70 and then include a sub with a low pass at 70 which can handle that area more effectively.
  4. I own two PC212+ and use a Helix to chain them with L6 Link. When doing so, one PowerCab gets the Left side and one PowerCab gets the Right side of the stereo image. The output block on the Helix has access to control the PowerCab speaker mode, as well as the model selection. This can be set globally, or per patch. You can also control the speaker model on each the left vs the right separately. I'm not sure if you use two cabs whether you can set one cab to flat and one to speaker model. Based on my recollection of the options in the UI, I think the answer is probably no. However, since you can set the settings per patch (and probably even snapshots), you should be able to switch from speaker to FRFR and back as needed.
  5. The PowerCab is intended to take Line Level input from a preamp device such as a Helix. Most tube amps can connect to it via the Effects loop, but would need a load box on the speaker output to avoid blowing the transformer. Interestingly, the Revv D20 looks likes it actually has a built in load box which would allow you to output a Line Level signal without plugging into a speaker. Based on this, you should theoretically be able to connect the two. That's pretty cool. First, push the button on the back to select the "Internal Load", or leave the speaker disconnected (it supposedly automatically loads it if nothing is connected). Then take the Two Notes Balanced Ouptut and connect it to the PowerCab. This output has it's own Power Section and Speaker IR from the amp, so you'd want to set the PowerCab to FRFR to act like a PA speaker, as you would with the Helix if you had cabinet sims enabled in it. Alternatively, you should be able to take the FX Send output instead and run that into the PowerCab line in. This will not have the Power Section or Speaker IR however, so you would then want to choose a speaker model in the PowerCab or run it in pure speaker mode with no tweeter. It may be possible to get the IRs used in the Revv D20 from the company and load those into the PowerCab directly. In which case they'd presumably sound identical with either option. Though the balanced output would be better due to lower noise floor and more output from balanced connections.
  6. If it seems to be tone buzzing, my guess is that you're clipping digitally? It could be clipping internally on the Helix, or into the PowerCab, or even in the PowerCab itself. Put the "cursor" on the output block of the helix and view the new VU meters. See how loud it is and turn down the output as needed. Turn up the PowerCab to compensate if needed. Try a limiter or compressor before the output so you can reduce peaks while still getting more volume. View the ring on the PowerCab while playing. If it's clipping the input it will blink red each time. Again, turn down the Helix, and turn up the powercab to compensate if you havee headroom. If you are using any speaker sims or things in the PowerCab it could be clipping internally there instead. You can edit the settings to turn down the digital volume in the PowerCab until the buzzing goes away.
  7. Is it a physical buzzing, or a tone buzzing? One of my PC212+ will physically buzz if I run a bass guitar through it and turn it up a little. The other does not. Seems like a loose cable or something inside is rattling on the speaker or cabinet.
  8. PC212+ does a decent job on bass as long as you're not doing super low stuff (which I am). Finding a FRFR bass rig to use with my Helix is prohibitively expensive, compared to just adding a sub of some sort for ~$400 or so. Since the PC212+ high pass filter sits at 80Hz, the sub probably doesn't really need much of a flat response since it's only covering ~40-50Hz of the spectrum.
  9. The only programs that will recognize .hlx are Line 6 programs. Just edit the file extension to .json before editing the file. Then rename it back to .hlx when done. If you can use a PC, you can just force it to be opened in a program with right click > open with
  10. Since I have a Helix and two 212PC+, I figured I could probably pare down my equipment overall. The 212PC+ only go down to 70Hz, and one of them starts to rattle a bit if I try my 5-string bass with them at volume. So I was thinking of maybe getting a powered sub. PowerCab has a built in Low Cut option that doesn't apply to the output signals. So I ought to be able to use L6 Link into the PCs and run a line out to a sub, which usually have their own crossover. Any suggestions? Ideally something the same width as the PC212 (~28").
  11. No word from Support on the signal issue. As rd2rk stated, if you're trying to assign an PowerCab preset to a Preset in the Helix, you do it in the Helix patch: Powercab Remote using HELIX via L6 LINK Use the following steps to configure a Line 6 Helix Floor, Rack, or LT device for L6 LINK remote functionality with Powercab Plus. On Helix, from any Output > Multi or Output > Digital block, press PAGE> once. Powercab remote parameters appear. Turn Knob 1 (Powercab Remote) to select: Off - No remote control of Powercab Plus parameters, but audio is still active Per Preset - Powercab Plus parameters are stored and recalled with the Helix preset Global - Powercab Plus parameters are stored and recalled globally Turn Knob 3 (Speaker Select) to select which speaker(s) you’d like to control. If you have a single Powercab 112 Plus, leave this set to “Speaker 1+2."
  12. I own a Mimiq and Helix. The Mimiq is fantastic, but the Double Take in Helix seems to be just about as good in my opinion. Definitely not worth using WITH the Helix rather than Double Take unless you need to free up DSP and still have a block to run the effects loop with. I use the Mimiq with my HD500x though. Both sound phasey in mono simply due to what they do. Both can sound like they "jump around" a little in mono. They both automatically change up the delay time which can shift the comb filtering audibly. I haven't used the Mimiq in a while, but I feel like it was a bit better at detecting transients to switch delay settings with, so it sounds a bit more natural. That said, teh difference is pretty minimal. If you use a stereo mix with in ears/headphones, your going to be very happy with either. I've boxed up the Mimiq and haven't looked back in this case. However, if you use mono monitoring, or have a stereo rig where the speakers are close to each other (effectively making it mono), I think Mimiq probably wins by a hair. If you already own one, cool. Do something fun with it. If not, I wouldn't bother purchasing it honestly.
  13. I own a Helix and 2 PC212+ cabs. Two separate speakers placed in different locations will always have more width. However, I believe the PC212+ can use signal processing to make the cabinet wider sounding that a regular 212. It has a control for Stereo Width that ranges from 0 - 200% (mono to extra wide). It's presumably playing with phasing to get the extra width. The FH1500 probably does the same thing. Thump is a subjective term. In a regular cabinet, that thump comes from a resonant frequency of a closed back cabinet. The small the cabinet, the higher the frequency it would "thump" at theoretically. The PC212+ are obviously larger than the others, and have 2 12's for more low end. I haven't really compared the thump to my 412, but my guess is that it will not have as much simply due to physics. You could possibly bump up 100Hz or so with EQ to try to simulate it though. The PC212+ goes down to 70Hz I believe. The + models give you access to custom IRs for the cabinet (and more models?), but if you're using a Helix you don't necessarily need it. The same IRs can be loaded into the Helix itself. Foot control of the built in models is neat, but I find I don't even use the built in speaker models so far. I did just buy them for their FRFR capabilities personally. The speaker models are fun, but I generally use in-ears anyways so the mic'd models make more sense for my purposes.
  14. FYI support has been notified and they've passed the issue on to QA to test.
  15. Someone above said they have two 112's and have the same issue. So I don't think that's it. Seems more like turning the volume down on the 2nd cab causes the L6 Link to think a second was disconnected maybe. The 212's each switch to mono, so that the dual cab set up is in stereo, but each cab is just one side. I didn't test if it switches the first cab back to stereo if the second cab is lost.
  16. Yes. You need something that can absorb the power of the amp, and has a line level DI output if you wish to not use another speaker cabinet. The Radial Headload for example. They also make the Radial JDX-48 which is meant to go in between an amp and speakers, and just take a tap off the output to use as a DI output. But you still need a speaker cabinet or loadbox to absord the amplifier's output.
  17. You mean mic'ing your amp and using the PC as a PA speaker? Certainly doable. The PC212 (maybe not the others) allows you to feed into input 2 as a direct monitor signal - so you can use the cab as a floor monitor basically. That would be ideal for this scenario. As for stereo, it wouldn't really be stereo. It'd just be the almost same sound coming out the other speaker - colored by the mic used. That's only going to give you a slight stereo image due to the varied EQ and phase differences. Now if you put a delay or other time based affect on the mic'd signal then you're getting into real stereo territory.
  18. It depends on the PC+ mode. If it's FRFR or IR, it's just spitting out what it receives. If it's Speaker Mode, I'm it's applying a speaker model to the speakers, and an ADDITIONAL mic model to the XLR outs. You can even choose the mic model and the distance. I haven't tried these out, but if they're good sounding you could open up some DSP on Helix by not using cabinet modeling at all. https://line6.com/data/6/0a020a4107835d2fac0e63b03/application/pdf/Powercab Manual - English .pdf Page 13. List of mic models: 57 Dyn 409 Dyn 421 Dyn 30 Dyn 20 Dyn 121 Ribbon 160 Ribbon 4038 Ribbon 414 Cond 84 Cond 67 Cond 87 Cond 47 Cond 112 Dyn 12 Dyn 7 Dyn
  19. The PC212 has a wider stereo image than a regular 212 cab. Not sure if they tilt the speakers or just use phase tricks when eq'ing it flat. But, as noted before, that disappears pretty quickly the further you step away. 2 cabinets in the corners of the room will always have more stereo spread. BUT - are you really even using stereo? Most things guitar related stereo sounds are not much better in stereo than in mono, unless you're using a ping pong delay or something really obvious.
  20. No, I only posted here. Figured support looks at these, but perhaps that's incorrect. Will forward this to them directly I suppose.
  21. Maybe the DT Series guide will help? The Quick Start sections walks through changing the Pod's output settings to L6 Link. Instructions say to adjust the output settings. Connect the amp via the AES/EBU cable. Then power on the cabinet. Things may be different for the PowerCab than the DT, but the key is probably your output settings. When I get my HD500x back from a friends house I'll try to remember to try this out with my PC212 cabs. I have a helix at home and it's pretty much plug and play.
  22. Have you tried boosting your mids further? You stated you can afford keeping the mids low, but mids are in fact the key component for guitar, especially when mixed with other instruments. Are you making this assessment about the mids when playing with the others? Or when you're playing alone? In my experience most PA speakers are a bit mid scooped to begin with. Is the EQ contour button on? Those are usually a smiley curve EQ to boost lows and highs. Sounds great for processed music, but for live bands that's probably not a good thing. It may also be a matter of your guitarists tone stepping on yours as well. If they're dominating the frequency spectrum and volume, the whoever is loudest is going to win. That just how the psycho-acoustics of our ears work (see frequency masking). See if you can get them to carve out some space for your guitar, and you boost the same frequencies. If they're lead, have them cut out some lows to let you fill in that space, for example. You can help with this automatically by also staying out of each others way in the riffs you play. If you're both playing in the same register, one of you move the riff up an octave, or preferably two. Both will cut through a lot better. If you've ever tried mixing a band, it quickly becomes clear how difficult it is to have two guitars playing in the same spectrum both cut through. You might be surprised at the crazy EQ you may need to do for them to both be heard. How big are the PA speakers you're using?. You may also have the High Pass Filter enabled in your EQ or Cabinet Emulation that removes some mud. In a recording, that's a good thing. But live, that lack of low end thump can also make your rig feel less than desirable. Do you have access to more PA speakers, or larger ones? A sub perhaps?
  23. OmniFace

    Too Boomy??

    Do you use a Tube Screamer with a low Drive in front of the amp model? This cuts some lows, and the additional grit from it creates some harmonics in the signal that helps. This is especially useful in low tuned or extended range guitars. The idea is to cut some of the lows going into the amp model and then if you boost the lows later they're "tighter" sounding and less "boomy"/"flubby" sounding.
  24. Yeah I use two, one on each side of stage. Makes us less reliant on floor monitors. Glad to hear it's happening in other cabs, and not just mine. Simple enough to fix, and avoid, as long as you know what's going on at least.
  25. Found an intermittent possible bug in the PowerCab 212 when daisy chaining two together with a Helix. I was able to reproduce almost 100% for a bit while writing this up, but then sometimes I can’t. ———— Steps: Connect guitar to Helix Connect Helix Line 6 Link out to PowerCab 1 Line 6 Link in using an AES/EBU cable Connect Line 6 Link Out on PowerCab 1 to PowerCab 2 Line 6 Link in Power Helix On, then PowerCab 1, then PowerCab 2. Turn volume up in both PowerCabs to half, and turn up the volume on the Helix to whatever. Make sure both have sound. Turn the volume on PowerCab 1 down to zero and verify PowerCab 2 still has sound. Mute the guitar. Continuing to play appears to negate the issue. Turn the volume on PowerCab 2 down to zero and wait 5+ seconds. Turn the volume on PowerCab 2 back up and wait 5+ seconds. Now try to play guitar. Result? No audio. No signal indicators on the PowerCab 2. PowerCab 1 appears to stop sending signal. Green signal lights appear on PowerCab 1, and turning the volume up works. Restarting PowerCab 2 does not restore audio. You must restart PowerCab 1, and then audio on PowerCab 2 will work again. —————— I tried swapping the order of the PowerCabs in the signal chain and got the same result. Whichever amp is in the middle of the Helix and the other stops sending signal when the volume is set to zero, and nothing comes in to the amp for a bit, but only if the second cab is also set to zero briefly. ————— This is a minor issue, but may you have to restart your PowerCabs between sound check and your show. Or make sure you never set the volume to zero on the amps themselves. Ran into this the first few times I played with the amps live, and thought maybe I had to start them in a certain order. I was playing withy two amps today and investigating a new rattle, and I’ve figured out what’s actually going on for this problem.
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