innovine

Just tried with the pod master down and the dt at max, then with the dt down and the pod at max. I've turned it down pretty far so as to not wake the kids, buti can't hear any difference at all. Bf double nrm, pretty clean. Maybe the difference only shows up after a certain volume? I was told the power amp dist wouldn't be heard at home listening levels tho. What am I missing?

I appreciate the long reply, thanks. I'm with you 100% of the way until the final paragraph. We have always had the channel volume. With nothing after the amp block and before leaving the pod, there is no difference between the channel volume and the master volume, so the ability to throttle back the pod has always been there, just the post effects which are hit harder or not now. The analogy with the car is kinda getting there, but if we imagine a dog with his head out the window (the listener) and his tongue flapping in the wind (the power amp dist), is it correct to say that the amount of tongue flap is the same whether its a big engine working a little, travelling at 10mph, or a tiny engine working itself to death to also give 10mph? Tongue flappage isn't magically added because the car -could- go faster, which is sort of what I'm hearing in this thread.. Ano, as I mentioned in the other thread, constant current is only in some classes, which hasn't been discussed.. I get the feeling I'll be getting my sine wave generator out soon.

Can you expand on the difference here: Channel Volume - controls amp block signal output within the preamp. POD Master - controls preamp signal output to the power amp. According to this thread, the difference clearly means better tone, and no need for attenuators, so I must have missed something drastic.

The channel volume does the same thing as the pod master when connected via the line6 link.. nothing new there.. the only thing raising the dt master would do is raise the noise floor, it seems to me, and no explanation suggests otherwise..

I disagree. Ears are easily fooled, but a thorough understanding is more reliable. I'm not saying anyone is wrong, just that I don't understand. I gan't crank my amp due to small children and grumpy neighbours.

According to this thread: http://line6.com/support/topic/4231-channel-volume-vs-master-volume/?do=findComment&comment=28015 Its not possible to get power amp distortion by lowering the input and cranking the dt master, which seems to me to be exactly whats claimed in this thread. Someone please ennlighten me.

I bought it on the internet without testing. Reviews didn't quite reveal just how bad it was. I can't sell it, because no one wants one. A total flop that cost yamaha any future business from me. I have absolutely no respect for a company that drops such turds onto unsuspecting customers.

Is there any other differences when replacing the tubes? Is replacing and rebiasing a simple task, or will I be fiddling around in very cramped and uncomfortable places?

This is only partially true. Manufacturers know for example to two decimal places what percentage of hard disks will fail for each month of the prodwcts life. Ie, the statistics are there to say that after 30 months, only 97.25% of these hard disks will still be functioning.Every time a component lasts longer than its planned lifetime , its been overengineered, and a more cost effective solution exists. In an ever-increasingly competitive tech market where the main differentiator is cost, shaving a few more months off your product life is directly measurable in supply chain cost reduction which translates to shavings from the price. It's difficult for businesses to create hardware that does not fall into this trap as the nwmber of units sold rises. Only niche markets buy quality products that are engineered to last. The bulk of the profit, ie the big money, exists with cheaply made mass produced disposable devices, and that is where shareholder demands steer the business to. That is what will happen now as yamaha take over and push them into more mainstream product development. Go capitalism.

Yamaha's multi12 drum pad is the worst piece of gear I have ever bought, and I am very angry that a company would even attempt to put such a bad product on sale. I have no words to describe how bad it is. I feel completly fcked over by yamaha. It will be a long, long time until I buy something yamaha again. I'll be looking at kemper when my pod dies

Yes, the same here. I play at a minimal volume late at night and its annoying. I've taken to switching to Triode and that clears it up a good bit.

Connect an am/fm radio tuned to a dead channel to the aux input and use a parallel signal chain. To turn it into wind you need a band pass filter with variable q. You could try the eq effects, and maybe a wah with variable mix. Assign the filter cutoff (eq freq) to the pedal. The wind movement is created by the frequency moving up and down, and the wind whistle by increasing and decreasing the q of the filter. Some movement to the overall volume (on the radio) will also help. Sorry I can't recommend a specific effect but I'm not near my pod.

You can supposedly do a factory reset by holding the topology and channel switches towards each other when powering on. I say supposedly, because when I did it, the amp seemed to revert back to the original behaviour, but monkey kept insisting that the amp was at version 2.0. Monkey did allow me to reinstall v2.0 anyway, but I dislike these little glitches around such a delicate process.

Which cab do you use with that?

I would appreciate some tips on getting some sludge metal type tones? I kinda like the smooth, muddy stoner sludge tone but am having trouble dialing it in on the pod. Meambobbo's guide doesn't go into any details. I'm using the jcm800 a lot, but would appreciate some advice! Guitar is ec-1000 tuned to d standard. I've a bass big muff pi too, if thats a help.

Good info there, thanks all.

How does that compare to LVM?

Trying to understand is not over-thinking. In the absense of any power amp distortion, I'm not seeing any diffence (besides noise) with having one knob up and one down. I might hear a difference but I'm bored at work and can't play at the moment. I don't recall hearing a difference last time I messed with it. I am not really satisfied with just twiddling the knobs and hoping I stumble across a good tone. Part of the hobby for me is learning about gear and knowing whats going on in my signal chain. Maybe its time for an iso cab or attenuator :)

"At higher master volume settings, the tubes start to add distortion." But I don't think this is strictly true, is it? If I turn the master up to the point where I start to hear power amp distortion, and then reduce the channel volume, the power amp is not receiving the same level of signal that it was. So it'll not distort either, right? I'd need to turn it up even more to get power amp distortion again? Which would be at the same overall volume level again? If I understand right (which i probably don't, since I started this thread), you meant to say "at higher _volume levels_, the tubes start to add distortion".. Is that more correct? Which is why the attenuator is desired...to keep the power amp distortion but attenuate the volume afterwards. If I'm on the right track, then the way to get power amp distortion at the lowest volume level possible is to dime the channel volume to give the hottest signal into the power amp, which then will distort at a lower volume level than if I fed it a cooler signal..? If I'm wrong somewhere here I'd be very grateful for a correction! I think I'm still leaning towards there not being a difference.. I wish I had an attenuator so I could really crank it and see.. :)

Let me get this straight... turning down the Channel Volume (and the master on the pod) attenuates the signal between the preamp and the poweramp? And the Master on the amp attenuates the poweramp? So, as long as I have no poweramp distortion, turning the channel volume down and the master up, or turning the channel up and the master down will have no difference at all (apart from the noise floor?)? ie, lots of amplification of a small signal, or little amplification of a hot signal should produce the same output as long as the poweramp does not distort? If that's correct, then what factors drive the poweramp into distortion?

I thought the tubes are only pushed when the amp is loud, and working hard, irregardless of the setup? But perhaps that only applies to a particular class configuration? Otherwise, whats the point to using an attenuator if you can just turn it down and preserve the driven tube sound?

Whats the difference between having the channel volume up full and the master way down, and the channel volume down with the master up? Does the situation change with the pod hd500 via line6 link? And with the new master on the pod with the update?

Would anyone care to record a clean riff, then record it being reamped with the master up, down, and then the same with the attenuator in action?

Hey guys, would anyone have the time to post a soundclip of the dt direct out with the master down low, and then with the exact same guitar signal and patch, with the attenuator in place and the master pushed up a bit? I need to keep the volume pretty low at home, and am wondering if the tone difference is worth the attenuator. I keep hearing people say it; better but I've yet to hear the recorded difference.

I dunno. Possibly a while. I moved my gear around and I'm sitting closer now and notice it more. Plus using the treadplate is new for me too. I think I've always noticed some mild noise floor tho even with the master fully down