rd2rk

Describe, in detail, EXACTLY how your cables are run, and attach a sample preset.

We could be using the same terms for different things, but I wasn't referring to the IMPEDANCE settings. Both of your amps have the basic series FX Loop. That SHOULD be INSTRUMENT Level to accommodate typical guitar stomp type FX vs studio grade rack FX which are usually LINE level. Assuming that you're wired like this: Amp SEND to HXS L/MONO INPUT; HXS L/MONO OUTPUT to Amp RETURN THEN In Global Settings>Ins/Outs, set both the INPUT LEVEL and the OUTPUT LEVEL to INST. Set the HXS Volume Knob to max (that's UNITY - OUT=IN). With all HXS FX bypassed, there should be no boost in the levels, but if there is then you can lower the HXS Volume Knob to compensate. These settings should not affect TONE in any way. However, if you want, you can use the GLOBAL EQ to account for any perceived changes.

Yes, I misread the post. Although, if changing the Input level in Global settings doesn't work with their amp, they COULD use the HXS FX Loop by putting a RETURN at the beginning of the signal chain. Between the Level settings in Global Settings and the RETURN Block/Output Block levels, they should be able to accommodate most any amp. This waste of a block shouldn't be necessary though, and it WOULD be nice to know what amp we're talking about.

Unless they fixed it in 3.11 (I don't think so), it's a bug that popped up a couple of updates ago. They're aware of it (I reported it and got them to acknowledge it) and they're "working on it". I wouldn't hold my breath. EDIT: That's what I get for being a smart-lollipop. They fixed it!

@benk1 - see my edit.

The FX Loop Block has both send and return level parameters. Use whichever one gets you the best results in your setup. EDIT: in Global settings>Ins/Outs, set the FX Loop you're using to INST, as that's likely the level your pedals are working with. Try this FIRST.

This might help: External amp switching issue after updating to 3.11 - Helix - Line 6 Community

Nah, Devon Townsend PLAYS GUITAR, he doesn't fondle formants.

So, to sum it up, we're all a bunch of anachronistic morons, and you need our help because you're too smart to figure out the antiquated hardware that you bought without doing your due diligence THREE YEARS AGO? Yes, well, I think I have room in my schedule - let's see - would Feb 29, 2027 work for you?

Are you asking how to program the Amp, or how to control it from Helix? If the latter, how, EXACTLY, do you want to do it? Select Channel on Preset Load? Select Channel on Snapshot Change? Select Channel On Demand from within a Preset/Snapshot? Any or all depending on Preset? I don't have the amp, but MIDI is MIDI, and the programming method they use is pretty standard for MIDI Amps. What you do on your Helix is need dependent.

Modulation>Stereo>Double Take. Volume/Pan>Stereo>Stereo Width or Stereo Imager.

What @datacommandosaid. Watch those videos! You don't have to use the templates at all, but if you do, you only need to use the 4cm template if you need 4cm on THAT preset AND haven't watched those videos or figured out how to create a presets from scratch!

Are you using a hub? Try going direct to a MOBO USB connection. If you're using a desktop those are USUALLY the ones in back, laptop the ones closest to the PSU input. USB 3.0 ports can cause problems, even though they're SUPPOSED to be backwards compatible. Even NEW USB cables can be iffy. Unfortunately, there's no way I know of to tell which ones will work other than try a few. Make sure Windows Power settings are optimized for performance, and that in Device Manager the Power Management settings on the USB ROOT HUBs are OFF. Windows Updates often change that setting (grrrr). That's all I can think of right now. These kind of problems are a PITA to troubleshoot. EDIT: If you're using wireless, try disabling it while using HX Edit.

I had a roommate once who kept formants. Annoying, constantly making the most irritating noises. I was SOOO glad when she moved out!

Also helps us to know exactly which device we're talking about. Factory reset:

First, don't post a new question every time. It starts a new thread. Very confusing for us. Your first post was: "Where do you guys set the columns at." I responded "HUH???" because the question makes no sense. A 4cm connection is a one-time deal. Whether or not it's used in a given preset depends on whether or not you include an FX Loop Block in the preset's signal chain, which can then be enabled/disabled as necessary using footswitches or snapshots. Nobody ever wants to hear this, but you'll be MUCH less confused, or at least have a better idea what questions you need to ask, if you RTM. It's very well done, with a table of contents and pictures and everything. At least browse through it to get the basic concepts. Lots of helpful people here, but knowing the basic terminology goes a long way! :-)

What EXACTLY are you trying to do (in detail)?

No. You can request this feature on Ideascale: https://line6.ideascale.com/a/login TBH, don't hold your breath. It's not a bad idea at all, as there's a number of odd noises that can occur when changing snapshots, it's just not likely to happen. Can't hurt to post it though!

No.

HUH???

What everyone else said. For future reference, nobody from L6 monitors this forum. They occasionally visit, but they don't stay long. They DO hang out on the Digital and Modeling Forum on The Gear Page. If you ask this question over there where it's asked every 15 minutes, you'll be laughed at. On TGP you'll also find a number of lengthy threads with thousands of posts by owners and non-owners alike complaining about the shortcomings of that "quad-core" wonder device you mentioned, and several posts by users saying "Whatever, it's good enough for me!" Caveat emptor. My BEST advice: Buy what you can afford NOW. The future is a dream.

Again, a question I can't even guess at without hands on. Attach a preset that demonstrates your contention, I'll see if there's something obvious that you're missing. For some people, it ain't gonna sound good unless it's a tube amp (THEIR tube amp) through a real world guitar cab (THEIR guitar cab). If they're using entirely different rigs next week, it'll be because the NEW rig is the ONLY rig that's good enough for human ears (THEIR ears). Whatever. I just wanna rock!

Without being able to put my hands on your rig, I can only offer comments which I hope will be helpful. For use with FRFR112 (I have one) the HXS MAIN Output should be set to LINE. Volume on FRFR112 should be around 2/3 for MAX volume w/headroom. Using Amp+Cab or Amp+IR use the HX Volume knob to control overall output. Fully cranked, this should cause people in the next state to call the cops. When you say that you're playing through the FX Loop, does that mean 4cm or straight to the DSL Return? If you're going into the RETURN from the HX MAIN Out, then HX MAIN Output should be set to LINE. I don't know where the Master is in the DSL circuit. Does it have any effect when you're playing? Note that Preamp models are just that, and their output levels are all over the place. Not all of them are going to work for you. If you must use one of the lower output preamps, you may need one or more GAIN blocks after it. With only 8 blocks to play with, that probably won't be a good solution. Full amps are louder, but still vary. With the rigs you described, it shouldn't be a problem. Keep in mind that while the usual advice is to use preamps with tube power amps to avoid double power amp coloration, that's only a general rule, not a law. A little EQ goes a long way. Bottom line: "If it SOUNDS good, it IS good". You probably DON'T want to use a cab/IR into physical guitar cab. EQ has limits, but, remember the bottom line stated above. If you're wired for 4cm, you won't be using the HXS amps/preamps. In this configuration, the HXS FX Loop should be set to INST because MOST modern amps' FX Loops are designed to be used with stomp type pedals whose inputs expect to be connected to a guitar. Your total Output volume and distortion levels are a result of the interaction of the GAIN and MASTER controls on the amp. The HXS Volume Knob should be dimed. Remember that at MAX, the output signal is at UNITY (in=out). You can only REDUCE the available level. I know, blah blah, just keep it dimed in this configuration. "Bedroom levels" is a relative term. Going straight into the amp's RETURN, with all levels at defaults and the HXS Volume knob dimed, if I crank the MASTER on my Egnater Tweaker15-112 combo, it's WAY too loud for my apartment, and is totally sufficient for a 3-4 piece combo of competent adult musicians playing R'n'R in a small club. Your DSL40 should be loud enough for the same group to play a medium sized club. If you're playing metal with a bass coming through an SVT and another guitar using a 100 watt full stack to try and get over the John Bonham wannabe with the full double-bass stadium kit, neither of your current rigs will ever be nearly loud enough. Hope this helps.

The first version I sent was adapted from an existing HXStomp preset. Here's a simpler Version. Input Switch2.hlx

Depends on your needs. If you don't care about the auto impedance feature, instead of using the regular inputs you could use two FX Loop Returns. Set them to one FS and save the preset with one ON and the other OFF. You'd want to set the Input block to something you're not using to prevent extraneous noise from the unused input. Another (better) possibility would be to use the Guitar Input for the mag pups (input block set to Guitar), then send the Piezo to an FX Loop Return. Add a RETURN Block. Pull the RETURN Block down to create a Split Path. At the MIX Block, assign both A and B Level Parameters to a FS. In the BYPASS/CONTROLLER ASSIGN Screen, set the MIN/MAX Values for the two levels opposite one another. This retains the auto-impedance function for the mags (where it matters) and allows for separate FX chains in both paths. Set the Output Block to Path 2A. By putting separate amps in a Split on Path 2 and setting the Split Block to A/B and the same FS that separates the Inputs, whichever pickup's signal comes into Path 2 is routed to an FX Chain specific to that pickup. This is kinda complicated, so I've attached a demo preset. FS 11 does all the switching. The Mag FX are on the Top Row in Stomp Mode, the Piezo FX on the Bottom Row. This is a pretty DSP heavy preset, so the amps and FX I picked are just what I could fit quickly, and the FX are just the defaults. There may be a better way to do this, but this is what I came up with on short notice. It would also be possible to combine the pickups by doing all of this with Snapshots, but now it's time for dinner! Let me know if you have questions. Input Switch.hlx