rd2rk

Upvoted

Mmm...cake! Unfortunately, TGP doesn't allow posting presets.

In your Snapshots it's saved OFF. If you switch to a Snapshot where it's OFF it stops. In the 3-note Generator Block, uncheck "Snapshot Bypass". In Global Settings>Preferences set Snapshot Edits to Discard. Now it stays ON unless you turn it OFF.

And give us more personal storage so that the hard work we put into screenshots doesn't have to be deleted and lost to future answer seekers!

YES! WE NEED EMOTICONS! (insert angry mob with torches and pitchforks emoticon)

Of course, it wouldn't make any difference what kind of computer you're using (YES IT DOES!). Let's assume that you're using a Windows PC. Go into the Sound Panel and disable Helix as Playback and recording devices. Make your Scarlett the Default Playback device. Recording doesn't even need a default device, but you can make it the Scarlett if you like. I leave mine on Microphone. If you've got a MAC I think there's something similar to Sound Panel.

You can plug them both into the main L/R inputs and just turn the volume down on the one that's not in use. Or you can use the Left (TS) Return for one of them. The only advantage to using the Main inputs is the Auto Impedance feature, which isn't really an issue with bass anyway as I don't think any of the bass FX are <1M impedance. Even if you use some guitar FX that are <1M, that causes a slight attenuation of the highs so, again, not really an issue for bass. I don't see there being any phase or ground loop issues. Whatever way you go, make sure that in Global Settings>Ins/Outs the input you use is set to INST.

Assign the PAN Parameter of the Output Block to a FS. By default when the FS is OFF the signal will pan LEFT; when it's ON it'll pan RIGHT.

Dude, you're on a roll!

It helps when asking questions if you specify what device you're asking about. If you use a MONO Send Block it's summed to MONO. Physical Sends are TS on the full fat Helix and HXFX. For Stereo you use a STEREO FX Loop Block and two Send/Return jacks. On the HXS/HXSXL a TRS Send carries Send L on Tip and Send R on Ring. A STEREO FX Loop Block splits the signal L/R-Tip/Ring.

I'd only add to what PierM said that if you use the Clarett as your Audio Interface (AI) and you want to get a DI (unprocessed) track for re-amping you'll need to get an unprocessed signal into the Clarett. There are many ways to do this. However, input impedance can be an issue. The input impedance matters because "classic" FX that require a lower than 1M impedance for "authentic" tone load the PUPS in such a way as to attenuate the highs. Like using a very long cable without a buffer. KISS method: Since I use a Relay G10 wireless, I just take the XLR from that to a Channel of my Scarlett 18i20. This loads my pickups at 1M which defeats the auto-impedance function of the Helix Guitar input. As mentioned above that's a problem if you're after "authentic tone" from certain "classic" FX in Helix. I don't care about that so it's not a problem for me. Other methods: If you're hard-wired you can use an instrument splitter before the Helix (affects the Auto-Impedance function of the Helix input same as wireless). You can place a SEND block at the beginning of Path 1 but that also loads your PUPS at 1M when active unless you specifically set the impedance function to accommodate it, which attenuates the highs on both paths. Catch-22. You can take a Split at the beginning of Path 1 and route Path 1B's output to XLR or 1/4" but that uses up the parallel path option of Path 1. OK if you don't need the parallel processing on Path 1. If you're using a MAC you can create an Aggregate ASIO Driver and use BOTH the Clarett and Helix as ASIO devices, but that has certain drawbacks too which I don't know much about since I use a PC. Some will say that you can do the same on a PC using ASIO4ALL. It might work. It never has for me and I don't recommend it. Sorry if all that is confusing, but impedance and re-amping are big deals for some and non-issues for others. Just thought I'd make you aware of some of the issues and workarounds. "With great power comes a great PITA!"

CC71 works fine in 3.15. Are you remembering to send a Value of 0-5 to select the specific mode? ex: CC#71 Value 3 = Snapshot mode Footswitch Mode (0=Stomp, 1=Scroll, 2=Preset, 3=Snapshot, 4=Next footswitch mode, 5=Previous footswitch mode)

If you figure that out I'll buy you a beer! Two beers!

The attached template preset routes the processed signal to PathB, which goes to your DAW on Input 3/4. The Split prevents that signal from reaching the Main Outs, which receive the Output from the DAW. If you want to direct monitor the processed signal on a separate amp or FRFR just take the signal from the physical sends. VST Input3.hlx

No. A separate MIDI controller? Pointy toed cowboy boots? :-)

I don't hear it, but if you do, turn off HUM and RIPPLE.

You need to assign the buttons, it's not automatic. Everybody hates when I say this but you REALLY should at least browse the manual to get the basic operations down.

Without the L6 Link connection Helix doesn't control the PC+ unless you set up MIDI commands. That's what you'd need to do if using HXS. Also, the Powercab page in HX Edit doesn't show the PC+ Global Settings page, which is where the HF Trim is located. You have to use the Powercab Edit program, which is REALLY a hot mess, don't EVEN get me started! I have an ongoing temptation to get a Katana Artist MkII primarily because of the front facing controls. I had a Katana 100 for a while, it was ALMOST good, but very brittle sounding. I blamed it on the totally open back cab and a not so great speaker. That and the top mounted controls are all fixed on the Artist. Now L6 comes out with Catalyst, which has all the things I didn't like about the Katana 100, and doesn't sound all that much better than the Katana Artist vids I've seen. A better editor but less flexible FX. What're ya gonna do? Brings to mind the flip side of one of the "Alvin and the Chipmunks" 45's, a simple jazz tune called "Hey, that's almost good!" Should be the L6 amp division's theme song!

There's a tiny little display on the PC+ Control Panel that supposedly displays all the settings, including the status of the HF Trim. It ALWAYS says that it's ON unless you manually turn it OFF by turning the endless encoder 100 times. Then SOMETIMES when it's supposed to be OFF you can hear that it's not, but SOMETIMES it's OFF when it's supposed to be. Random misbehavior is the hardest to troubleshoot. Possible breakthrough - I may have annoyed L6 enough that someone is looking into this over on TGP. Hopefully he won't be fired for asking questions. Fingers (and eyes) crossed!

For me, this week's brain twister is Powercab's HF Driver. When is it ON? When is it OFF? When is it SUPPOSED to be in which state? Is it possible to find anyone at L6 who knows the answers to these life or death questions? IF...THEN...ELSE... AARGH! Not enough synapses available for this. Maybe I'll just sell it all and take up bongos.... :-)

After switching snapshots as OP describes?

I tried several combinations of all the related settings and couldn't get it to reload the saved state. Possible bug?

When you adjust those settings on your real world amp, do you hear a difference? WHAT? You say that REAL WORLD amps don't HAVE those settings? Hmmm.... Methinks the answer to the question "What am I missing?" is "NOTHING of any great import!" :-) Okay Golden Eared Tone Sniffers - READY - SET - GO!

I contacted my SW rep and he hasn't a clue. He's contacting support to figure it out.

No. You'd need to put your dry signal on a separate output (1/4" probably) and somehow get that into your center speaker separate from the wet signal.