rd2rk

Backing track (MONO)>Input2 *Powercab System Tab>Input2=Normal* Comes into Reaper on Powercab RIGHT Input 1 comes into Reaper on Powercab LEFT

Select the last block in 1A. Assign it the effect that you want to be the LAST in 1B (not essential, just where that effect will be by default. Change it as necessary.). Pull it down to create a split. Change the Split to A/B (default is Y). Route the signal 100% to B. Pull down the Mixer Block to create a separate Out. Since no signal will be going to the Out on Path A, you now have a 16 Block serial path.

More experimentation is needed, and I only noticed it with the tube pre gain cranked. This is Helix...what is this "logic" you speak of? :-)

You're gonna hate me. I've always done it that way, and it works. But after a go-round with another forumite over Jason Sadites' recommendation to use two FX loops as described above, I'm liking that method better. There's less hum, and it's easier to get a balance when using a really hot tube preamp. I'd tried the two loop method in the past, but normally when I use 4cm I'm using my tube amp as a clean channel and Helix with one of the higher gain models, and I hadn't noticed a big difference. I don't have any FX pedals to try this with right now, but I suspect that the single FX loop method will work fine with FX pedals, and the two loop method will work better with 4cm. I think I'm going to pick up a couple of pedals the next time I go past our local cheap pedal store to test this theory with. I've never seen/heard anyone talk about one method being better than the other depending on use case (4cm vs FX pedals). I'm going to feel really silly if it turns out to be true, since I've been telling people to use a single loop with 4cm for years.

All good.

OK, sorry about the rant. I get crazy sometimes when I haven't had my coffee! Learning Helix definitely takes some time, and videos (there weren't many back in 2016 when I got mine) can help, but at least scanning the manual for your immediate topic of interest will also be useful. Going on 6 years with mine and I still refer to the manual frequently. Also, I'm old and hate watching videos (except live music). I don't even watch TV! Lifelong book addict!

Variation of the above preset using two paths and Snapshots on FS1 for channel changing. EDIT: My final output is a Powercab, and this variation has the Ventroux amp in it because it sounded SO good! Just delete it for your purposes. speedyone2.hlx

Same truth, different reality.

@datacommando - Shut up! You know how I get! :-) "Nobody's fault but mine...."

So, using the method of selective reading comprehension, you've chosen to be offended rather than to take part in a learning experience, or help the person (me) who's tried very hard to help you, to understand the logic behind your choices and maybe even, GOD FORBID, actually solve your problem by understanding what caused it in the first place? Because YOU DON'T HAVE TIME to explain yourself? "If you really wanted to help me you'd watch the video. I don't have time to explain why I did what I did! I'm very busy! I'm doing my laundry!" It's not about wasting my time. It's about YOU taking the time to involve yourself in the solution. We're always happy to help new users, but NO ONE can help someone WHO WON'T HELP THEMSELVES! OK, now that I've had a cup o' joe and a rant, and only because I, personally, want to understand stuff, I watched the video. His reasoning is what I said: If you'd understood his reasoning, you could've explained it easily. Rewatch the video so that you understand this, it's an important concept. Neither my method nor his is ALWAYS optimal in a given configuration. I still don't know why your XLRs aren't working. The only thing I can think of (if you checked the things I suggested above) would be that you have the BIG KNOB assigned to XLR and turned OFF.

I had a quick look at the manual. Apparently, using a PC# changes all of the saved settings (that's what a preset is) including the channel, and there's a lag while all that happens. If all you're wanting to do is change amp channels, use CC#s: CC# 20 Value 127 = CLEAN CC# 21 Value 127 = LO CC# 22 Value 127 = HI Use a simple (non-toggling) MIDI CC. Use any Value between 64-127 (127 is MIDI Standard ON, so I'd use that for simplicity). Turning one channel ON turns the others OFF. In Snapshot 1 assign the MIDI CC command type to InstantCommand 1 (the first lightning bolt) with the Value required for the amp channel you want. SAVE the Preset. Switch to Snapshot 2 (command type will already be MIDI CC) and assign the CC# and Value as required. SAVE the Preset. Repeat for SS 3.

Guitar>L/Mono IN>HXS FX (if any)>FX Loop L with External FX>HXS SPLIT A/B Routed 100% B>HX FX (if any) in Path B>HXS MIXER Block A and B Levels -60db (OFF) Reaper Track Input Mono 3, Record Monitoring AUTO, THU>Reaper Master Out 1/2>HXS Out 1/2 If you're using HXS Stereo FX or Stereo External FX in a Stereo FX Loop you'll use Reaper Track Input Stereo 3/4 Demo preset attached. dktreaster1990.hlx

Correct. 0db is another way of saying UNITY - no boost, no attenuation. MAX on the BIG KNOB is UNITY, or 0db. If you turn the BIG KNOB down, you're sending -Xdb, attenuating the Output level. By default, the S/R levels are 0db. That allows you to adjust for differences in the needs of whatever you've got in the loop. Keep in mind that when you set the Global Level for an Input or Output, you're setting a BASE level from which the signal can be boosted or attenuated. For instance, most stomp type effects expect an instrument level input and, since they're usually placed before the amp input, they also output Instrument level. In 4cm, the amp input expects Instrument level, but if you're cranking the amp's pre, the return to Helix can be way too hot, requiring attenuation of the RETURN signal. OTOH, if you want to hit the amp's input HARD without using an OD or GAIN block, you can crank the SEND Level. Clean Boost.

TBH, lots of people post videos here, and I haven't got time to watch them all Especially since the answer is usually failure to RTM. My question, if you can't explain it and can't provide a time in the video that I can go to to hear this logic, is this. Was the video so bad that you don't understand the logic behind the choices he made? So you just went ahead and did what he said? IDK, just seems illogical to me. When someone tells me to do something, I want to know, WHY? FWIW - the only reason I can see for wasting two FX Loops is if you think that having (in Global Settings) the SEND Level be different from the RETURN Level. IMO these Global levels should be separate in each FX Loop, but they're not. I've tried using two FX Loops like this and found it a waste. You can accomplish the same thing more efficiently with the S/R Levels within a single loop. JS is a really smart guy, so maybe he has another reason? BUT...this thread is about YOU. If YOU don't understand it after he explained it, I probably won't do any better. Can you explain his reasoning?

The attached preset demos switching channels on a 2 channel amp with no built-in channel footswitch. In this case the amp is an L7. speedyone - please reply here if there's a problem so if I need to mod the preset I can easily post the change. speedyone.hlx

Works fine on mine, all outputs fully functional. Check your XLR cables and the settings on whatever the XLRs are plugged into. Purely out of curiosity, why are you using Send1 and Return2 instead of just FX Loop1?

That's still just a picture - this time it's the HX Edit screen vs the actual Helix UI screen. Attached is a preset. In order to do that, you need to export the preset to your computer's file system (desktop, folder, whatever). Then when you click "Choose Files" navigate to where you exported the preset and select it. Now the ACTUAL PRESET (not a picture) will be attached, and I can load it into my Helix for troubleshooting. BassmanMono.hlx

The BIG KNOB controls the level sent to the assigned Output. It is the final stage before the DAC to the outputs. If it is receiving a 10db signal (specific numbers here mean nothing) and it is set to MAX, then the output is 10db (UNITY). If you turn it down, it lowers the output. There was a long thread some time ago pertaining to whether or not it affects tone with a link to a HiFi article explaining very scientifically that, because it is the last stage in the digital realm, YES it does, with a lot of blah blah about bits and such. If you can tell the difference beyond Fletcher-Munson you've got better ears than me. The main reason (IMO) to keep it maxxed (or disabled) is that you always know what level is going to your final output - what the audience hears - and your guitar cord can't accidentally drag across the Helix, changing the level and causing the FOH dude (or your bandmates) to have homicidal thoughts toward you. :-)

Yes, via MIDI. Per the MIDI implementation chart on the last page of the DSL40 manual: Channels 1-4 = PC#s: 0-3;4-7;8-11 etc - every 4 PC#s. Pretty weird but gives you flexibility to use whatever #s you need if the amp is at the end of a MIDI chain and for some reason you can't use different MIDI Channels for each device in the chain. I'm just guessing though. Marshall has a tendency to do strange things with MIDI, as witness the way they handle the Loop. The loop is controlled with CC#13. Values of 0=ON, 1=OFF. This can be useful with InstantCommands, but Helix doesn't allow using those values with toggling CCs. The manual says CC#2 with a Value of 127 toggles the loop, but it's not clear whether CC#2 works like a normal toggle (127=ON, 0=OFF), or if it just toggles the loop to it's opposite state every time it receives CC#2 with a Value of 127. You'll have to experiment.

Still no preset attached....

Just had a chance to try this. When moving UP, when you hit 3, the next press goes back to 1. When moving DOWN, when you hit 1, the next press goes to 3. This is normal. I couldn't make it go UP 1-3 or DOWN 3-1. Up 1 goes to 2, 2 goes up to 3; down 3 goes to 2, 2 goes to 1. No clue what it means in your case, just proves that it's not a 3.15 problem. At least not on my HXS. Using a Moskey Dual Switch.

Intermittent misbehavior is the worst. I've never been able to duplicate the problem, and if support can't duplicate it, they can't report it as a bug. Considering your last post, I'd hope that support would have you return the one with the provable problem.

I can't load a picture of a preset into my Helix. Attach the actual preset.

Attach your preset so we can troubleshoot it for you.

After you updated HX Edit After you created a backup After you updated the FW After you performed a Factory Reset Did you restore the backup, including the Global Settings?