rd2rk

Congratulations on your purchase of one of the finest amps ever made by Line6. Like all of the best amps they've ever made (including the latest, the POWERCAB line), they've totally abandoned the product. You can still get the manuals, including MIDI implementation here; Line 6 Manuals This should provide the info you need to take it beyond the L6 Link functionality. Use CommandCenter to send the MIDI messages as necessary. RTM. Come back if you have specific questions as to how to use MIDI and CommandCenter to do this.

Indeed! That's a neat little device. Not all that practical, but the thing has been around forever. I'm thinking that it doesn't sell a lot, so doesn't really inspire wireless makers to get with the program.

Impedance affects tone at the pickups. As long as you're wireless, your pickups will be "loaded" at 1M (standard amp input impedance), regardless of the impedance setting at Helix. If you're connected by an old-fashioned cable directly to the Helix guitar input (physical pedals between guitar and input load the pickups at the impedance of the pedals), the impedance that your pickups "see" can be set in Global Settings>Preferences>Auto In-Z=Enabled (first block determines impedance) or FIRST (first ACTIVE block determines impedance). Then in the Input Block of each preset you can set In-Z to AUTO (references the Global Setting) or a specific value. The FX Blocks are modeled with the Input Impedance of the actual pedal modeled. Not all versions of a specific effect have the same impedance. This is especially true with the tube screamer. Search the internet for the input impedance and you'll get a variety of answers.

Move the first reverb to the other side of the split and set the Main L/R pan to Center. Using the SEND for a Mono Out is normal, and the way it's usually done when sending to FOH and a stage amp/monitor.

I would never do it with both the FX Loop Block AND the Helix amp ON. With either/or ON (normal usage of 4cm) there's no difference. By putting a Helix Preamp BEFORE the FX Loop, with the FX Loop AND Helix Preamp ON you're using the Helix preamp as an AIAB, driving the PHYSICAL PREAMP. Then, with the FX Loop OFF, it would simply be the Helix preamp into the PHYSICAL POWERAMP. Two completely different uses of the Helix Preamp.

And here it's apples and oranges. A Helix PREAMP can be used in front of either a Helix amp OR a Physical PRE-amp. In which case it's being used as an AIAB. However, I NEVER suggested putting a FULL Helix amp model into a Physical preamp. But, as I said above if you like that sound, go for it. Some Helix preamps just don't sound good into a poweramp, whereas their FULL amp versions just sound better, and I've already explained why that MIGHT be the case. This is subjective to be sure, do what sounds best. I wasn't declaring a rule, just stating an opinion.

With both blocks ON: Amp BEFORE = Helix amp driving Physical amp. Amp AFTER = Physical amp driving Helix amp. Well, yeah, there's gonna be a difference! Proper 4cm usage as I was describing and as it's usually done = EITHER Helix amp OR Physical amp. Of course, you can do whatever sounds good to you, just know what it is that you're doing!

Are you trying this with BOTH the FX Loop and Helix Amp ON? That's the ONLY way I hear ANY difference with ANY Helix amp. Since that is NOT the correct way to use 4cm that's to be expected. HOWEVER - If you're convinced that there's a difference, then you've either discovered a bug that I just can't hear OR your HXS is defective. Report it to L6 support and see what they say.

Sorry, I don't have time to watch YouTube videos. If you read the manual you will learn that: When you load a Preset, it loads the Snapshot saved with the Preset, whichever Snapshot that was, as the DEFAULT Snapshot. When you load a Snapshot it INSTANTLY sends any MIDI messages assigned to the INSTANT COMMANDS (the Lightning bolts). If Snapshot 1 is the default Snapshot AND IF in SS1 (Snapshot 1), Instant Command 1 (IC1) is assigned CC#1 with a Value of 127 AND IF in SS2 IC1 is assigned CC#1 with a Value of 0 THEN when the Preset loads, SS1 will load and IC1 will execute (sends MIDI CC#1 Value 127) which will turn the DRIVE ON. If you then load SS2 it will execute CC1 with the assigned Value of 0, turning OFF the DRIVE. If you then re-load SS1 it will again turn ON the DRIVE. Instant commands execute in order - CC1 then CC2 then CC3 etc. For example - If SS1 (default) IC1 = CC1 Value 127; IC2 = CC#2 Value 0; IC3 = CC#3 Value 1 Then when the Preset loads, DRIVE will be ON; BOOST will be OFF; Clipping Diodes will be 2x SYMETRICAL If you then load SS2 AND If SS2 IC1 = CC1 Value 127; IC2 = CC#2 VALUE 127; IC3 = CC#3 Value 3 Then DRIVE will remain ON; BOOST will be ON; Clipping Diodes will be 4x SYMETRICAL NOTE: If you assign any sort of TOGGLING MIDI Message such as a TOGGLING CC to a FOOTSWITCH, that will also be sent when the preset loads and again when any Snapshot loads. DO NOT assign a TOGGLING CC to a FOOTSWITCH if you are also using that CC in an Instant Command! The result could cause serious brain damage! End of Lesson. Homework: RTM

It's either/or. MIDI is now your only option.

Good catch! I threw those together on my way out the door. OOPS! Yes, both should be FX Loop L.

No, I knew what you were asking. I included the manual reference FYI. Unfortunately, MIDI pedals do cost more than simple analog switches. Plus there's the learning curve. They do work great though, and are usually much more flexible.

Please indulge me. I've attached a simple proof. Is there a difference? Not that I can hear. Using a CLEAN setting on your physical amp, swap out the Helix amps until you find one where you hear a difference. Put it in both presets, then save and attach the presets to your reply. If I'm wrong you'll have taught me something, of which I'll be very appreciative. Amp After Loop.hlx Amp Before Loop.hlx

From the manual: 10. EXP 1/2, FS 4/5 Connect an expression pedal here to adjust a wide variety of parameters.* With a Y-cable (tip-ring-sleeve 1/4" jack, split to two tip-sleeve 1/4" jacks), two expression pedals can be connected. Alternatively, you can add one (or with a Y-cable, two) external footswitches to access additional stomps, presets, snapshots, etc. (FS4=tip, FS5=ring). To set this jack’s function(s), see page 52. By default, this jack is set to accommodate a Mission SP1-L6H Line 6 Expression Pedal, which has a toe switch that toggles between EXP 1 (Wah/Pitch or Poly Wham) and EXP 2 (Volume/Pan). For external footswitches, the momentary (unlatched) type should be used. IOW - No. There's 3 button switches out there, they just won't work with the HXS. HOWEVER, you can add as many buttons as you want with MIDI. Morningstar is a very popular brand with HXS users: MC3 MIDI Controller | Morningstar Engineering (morningstarfx.com)

Not sure what you're asking. You have the MIDI messages. Assign them in Command Center. If you don't know how to use Command Center RTM for whatever L6 device you're using (helps to know), then come back with specific questions. If you do know how Command Center works, but not MIDI, say so and I'll explain. Also, think about how, EXACTLY, you want your L6 device to control the Golden Boy. Snapshots? Footswitches? I'm always happy to help, but please don't make me do the Carnac the Magnificent routine. :-)

No, you don't understand me. I was VERY specific about where to place things. I'll try to be even more specific. When using 4cm your FX LOOP Block (singular) goes between the FX you want to come BEFORE your PHYSICAL amp's preamp (such as OD/Dist) and those FX that you want to be AFTER your PHYSICAL amp's preamp (such as Delays/Reverbs). Is it a hard and fast rule WHICH TYPE of FX go where? No, put them where they sound best. It IS a hard and fast rule where you put the FX LOOP Block - between the BEFORE FX and the AFTER FX. The FX SEND and FX RETURN Blocks (plural) are used for SPECIFIC purposes, and those are NOT the purposes you are currently using them for. You don't understand their purpose, so do yourself a favor - don't use them until you do (explained in my previous post)! When switching between your PHYSICAL preamp (in the FX LOOP) and a HELIX amp/preamp it doesn't matter which side of the FX LOOP Block (singular) you put the HELIX amp on, since one will be ON when the other is OFF. The signal flows either through the FX LOOP, through the PHYSICAL PREAMP and past the inactive HELIX amp, or through the active HELIX amp and past the inactive FX LOOP (which contains the PHYSICAL PREAMP). Reversing the order of those blocks does not change their function or effect on the signal. IOW - Input>FX>FX LOOP BLOCK>HELIX AMP>FX>Output to PHYSICAL POWER AMP works in exactly the same way as Input>FX>HELIX AMP>FX LOOP BLOCK>FX>Output to PHYSICAL POWER AMP because one (HELIX amp/FX LOOP) is ON when the other is OFF. You can use a HELIX PREAMP to replace the PHYSICAL PREAMP when running the signal through the PHYSICAL POWER AMP. Sometimes it sounds better to use a FULL HELIX AMP (preamp+power amp sim) even though the manual SUGGESTS the opposite. When using tube amps, HELIX preamps might sound best when used with the type of power amps they were matched with ITRW. For example, US Deluxe HELIX preamp into a 6v6 power amp; 2204 HELIX preamp into an EL34 power amp; US Double or Rectifier HELIX preamp into a 6L6 power amp; A30 or Matchstick HELIX preamp into EL84 power amp. This does not mean that you can't play mix and match, but if it sounds like crap, this might explain why. You can also use a HELIX preamp as an effect (AIAB) by placing it BEFORE the FX LOOP Block and/or HELIX FULL AMP. I hope this clarifies things.

You don't need to use separate Send and Return Blocks unless you WANT to cut out the FX between them when the loop is active. For 4cm just use an FX Loop Block and put that MOD effect on whatever side of the Amp sounds best. The separate Send Blocks are intended to take a signal OUT from a specific point in the signal chain to an external amp/processor from which it will not be returning to the signal chain, or not returning to the same point in the chain. The separate RETURN Blocks are intended to bring an external audio source INTO the signal chain or return the signal from a previously used SEND Block to a different point in the chain than where it was sent from. Very specific use cases. For 4cm just use an FX Loop Block. It doesn't matter which side of the Amp you put the FX Loop Block on UNLESS you're using a Preamp as an AIAB effect and WANT it in front of your physical amp, in which case put it before the FX Loop Block. I find that if I'm using a physical amp that doesn't have a whole lot of low end and is naturally scooped (Fender style amps, my Egnater Tweaker) or I'm using a SS Class D amp (my Powercab 212+ or a pedalboard type amp), using the full amp models usually sounds better. Again, if you're using a Helix preamp as an AIAB as described above, that's another thing. Different use case. I haven't had much luck with that, but I haven't spent much time with it, and some people like it. A YMMV thing. Low gain preamps that are modeling amps that are similar to your amp can sound fine. For example, my Tweaker is a 3-12ax7/2-6v6 amp. It sounds fine with the Helix Fender preamps and using those allows me to turn my single channel Tweaker into a multi channel amp. I've gotten good results using the Marshall tone stack on the Tweaker for Marshally cleans (4cm), the US DeluxeBrt preamp for Fendery cleans and the Voltage Queen preamp for crunch (both into the FX Return). By the same token, running a High Gain Helix Preamp into the FX Return of a 5150 or a JCM800 might be a whole 'nother story. Hope I've answered all of your questions.

I'm just glad I didn't try that with HP on... I'd be deaf! LOTTA boost there! Little bit of fine tuning required before the FOH guy murders you! :-)

I tried it REALLY LOUD thru my PC212+ (I hit the Heavy Solo FS while on the Rock Snapshot - HOLY $H1T BATMAN!), into the FX Return on my Tweaker, and thru 55ohm AKG k240 HP. With the Input Pad OFF I tried 2 guitars: PRS S2 C24 with VB/HFS pups and an Ibanez with SD Jazz/JB set. I did not hear any distortion on the Clean Snapshot, sounds very clean. Suppose it could be a case of "my clean is not your clean", but I don't think so. I also tried swapping in a couple other Clean amps - JC120 and Archon - same same, no distortion. Unless you're using REALLY hot pups (you would have looked for that right away), IDK. Bad cables - EMI/RFI interference - ALIEN COMMUNICATIONS DEVICES (OMG!) Good Luck finding the problem!

To expand on what @theElevatorssaid: You want the L7 set up in 4cm configuration. Do a search, hundreds of posts. You didn't specify what your amp was for the "external 112 cab" so I'll assume some sort of pedalboard amp like a PS170. For that all you need is a cable from the Main L/Mono Out or a second SEND to the amp's input. There's many ways to go about it if you want to use either/both configurations in a single preset depending on your specific needs for that preset. Essentially, you use Snapshots to enable/disable the FX Loop, enable Helix Amps/Cabs/IRs and redirect the signal chain from the Main L/R Mono Out used in the 4cm configuration to a second FX SEND (not FX Loop) for the External amp input. While you're thinking about that, what about FOH?

The problem is not your pickups. I don't have your ears and have no idea what "the sound in your head" is, but pickups like that have been used in Les Pauls on thousands (millions?) of recordings in every genre from jazz to djent. Jumping down the pickup swapping rabbit hole will not solve the problem. Personally, I'd start with the amp. Marshalls sound like Marshalls. Any preset you make that you send through a Marshall will be heavily Marshall colored. EDIT: Using IRs through a speaker cab usually doesn't sound great. You're looking for a one-size-fits-all preset and that means FRFR. Since there's no such thing as true FRFR, this is yet another rabbit hole. Which "FRFR" do you prefer the color of? My recommendation is to start with a decent set of studio monitors. At LEAST 6" for decent bass response. Get your presets sounding good at a decent volume - <>80db, with your head in the "sweet spot" (RTM). While you're working on that you can research the wide world of FRFR. On the forums, keep in mind that everybody has an opinion. You know what they say about opinions, right? Try as many as you can get your hands on. Preferably NOT on the main floor at GC! I'm currently using KRK Rokit6 monitors. Not the best or cheapest. Good quality home studio grade. I have a PC212+ for performance. That has full range coaxial speakers, can be used stereo or mono (you probably want mono for gigs, but the stereo is amazing for ambient sounds!) and has both speaker emulations and FRFR mode with on-board IR storage. It can be controlled/configured per preset using L6 Link from your Helix and has XLR direct outs for FOH. It's frelling LOUD! I think it sounds great. Many others say they suck. Many others say everything that's not a tube amp sucks. Opinions. YMMV. I also have a tube amp, Eganater Tweaker15-112 combo. It's essentially a Fender style amp (3-12ax7/2-6v6, custom Celestion GH50 speaker) with lots of voicing possibilities (Fender-Vox-Marshall). It sounds great in 4cm for most styles this side of heavy metal and is plenty loud for small to medium rooms with bands that play at reasonable levels. To sum up: It's a great time to be a guitarist. The possibilities are endless. Anyone can find the "sound in your head". There's no such thing as FRFR or a one-size-fits-all solution. Your pickups are not your problem. EDIT: If you haven't tried them yet, York Audio IRs are great. Mix 01 (57/121) is usually as far as I need to dive to find a good sound. I have Marshall, Mesa and Fender packs (not a Vox guy, but Vox guys seem to like the Vox packs).

Don't know what the problem is with your amp, but it's not a Helix problem. My Helix is totally silent in 4cm with my amp. Many thousands of others have the same experience (silent 4cm). I also use MIDI both with my Powercab and Plugins in my DAW. I sold all of my pedals and bought my Helix back in 2016 in part because my pedals were WAY too noisy. Hum, buzz, switch pops, the whole 9 yards. Not cheap pedals either! Maybe your amp just prefers pedals? However, if you do choose to blame Helix, you can probably buy a couple of nice pedals with the money. I've been thinking about a Revival Drive myself, but $600!!! I'll just keep stacking the 38 drives/fuzzes that come in Helix. No hums, buzzes or switch pops. To each his own! Best of Luck! EDIT: One last shot: you said you had some pedals that you ran in the loop without problems. Were they stomp type pedals? Did your FX Loop Level settings in Global Settings>Ins/Outs somehow get reset to LINE? If so, set them to INSTRUMENT and see if that fixes it. You said that you're not connected to a computer, so it can't be USB problems (they're a REAL PITA!). That's all I can think of! Good Luck!

I thought I answered your question: Your initial post was kind of a rant, TMI, caused confusion. I didn't help by trying to be diplomatic and funny at the same time. It's not really my forte. But I really do like donuts! :-)

@RTATKINSON Don't know if you worked it out yet, but I just got around to trying the looper and changing presets. That's what I get for being a smart-a$$. They fixed it!

Waiting on your preset.....