rd2rk
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Helix Rack USB noise (don't think its ground loop related)
rd2rk replied to ross_gerry's topic in Helix
Maybe. Try different cables.- 1 reply
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No, but there are many ways to streamline the process. I'm not going to re-type them. RTM.
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On HXS, select the amp block, press ACTION, press COPY Block, go to a new preset, select an empty block, press ACTION, Press PASTE Block. There's a similar procedure on all of the other Helix devices. Using HX Edit, RIGHT CLICK the amp Block, select COPY, same procedure. You can also choose to SAVE the Amp Block as a FAVORITE. You probably don't want to hear it, but this and much more is described in the MANUAL for your device. I know, I know... :-) Sorry, I just re-read your post. No there's no way to copy JUST the amp settings from an Amp/Cab Block.
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Wrong forum. Nobody from Line6 Monitors this forum. This is where you go if you're serious about suggestions for changes and improvements: https://line6.ideascale.com/a/index Before posting a new idea, please search to see if it's already been proposed. If 100 people vote on the same idea presented 20 different ways, it looks like only 5 people care about it! Also, post your ideas one at a time. I for one NEVER vote for multiple combined suggestions.
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Wrong forum. Nobody from Line6 Monitors this forum. This is where you go if you're serious about suggestions for changes and improvements: https://line6.ideascale.com/a/index Before posting a new idea, please search to see if it's already been proposed. If 100 people vote on the same idea presented 20 different ways, it looks like only 5 people care about it! Also, post your ideas one at a time. I for one NEVER vote for multiple combined suggestions.
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Page 45 of the manual (Helix 3.0 rev F): Snapshot Block Bypass On/Off There may be situations where you don’t want snapshots to control a particular block’s bypass state; that is, you’d prefer to turn it on and off manually. For example, you may want manual control of a Boost block at any time without worrying whether a particular snapshot might turn it on or off. 1. Within the Home screen, select a processing block within the signal flow and press ACTION. 2. Turn Knob 5 (Snapshot Bypass) to set the behavior for the block. Use joystick to move block; move down to create Path BClearBlockClear AllBlocksCopyBlockPasteBlockSnapshotBypassOnAdd toFavorites... By default, all blocks are set to “On” to automatically control their bypass states via snapshots. Change to “Off” to disable snapshot control of the selected block’s bypass state. ------------------- InHX EDIT RIGHT CLICK the Block and uncheck SNAPSHOT BYPASS.
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Define "lower volumes". 50db? 70db? 85db is where the Fletcher-Munson curve starts to flatten out. It's where my 15w/112 tube amp STARTS to sound good. It's also where my upstairs neighbors start banging on the floor. The best solution I've found for low volume practice is quality studio monitors. The best solution for good, creamy AITR sound is high volume. All that said, I'm currently getting pleasing tones out of my Catalyst 100 (dry) linked by XLR/with cab emulation to my Helix for stereo FX thru my PC212+ at 70-80db. W/D/W. That works for daytime, neighbors haven't called the cops. At night I use my Waza Air headphones. FWIW - I started with a PC112+ and quickly traded up to the PC212+. YMMV.
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Their BYPASS STATE (ON/OFF), yes. If you manually turn a block ON then switch to a Snapshot where it's been saved as OFF it remains ON and vice versa. It does NOT work for parameter settings, only Bypass.
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The UP/DOWN switches can be set to Bank, Preset or Snapshot. When pressed, they INCREMENT or DECREMENT whatever they're set to by 1. So yes, it doesn't matter what's DISPLAYED, whatever you're on goes up or down by one. What is "Snapshot Stacking"? Are you referring to the Snapshot Prev/Next function in CommandCenter?
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Snapshot Bypass only affects the Bypass function When you assign a parameter to Snapshots, changing Snapshots will set the parameter to whatever value you've saved in that Snapshot. There's no way to tell Helix "Only do this sometimes".
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In Global Settings, set Input 2 to NORMAL. Set Link Inputs ON unless you want to set input levels separately. Left input is routed to Left output. Right input is routed to Right output. Signals are processed. IOW - Speaker Sims and User IRs stored on Powercab can be applied, in stereo.
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Are you using automation to control Helix? If not, in Global Settings MIDI/Tempo disable MIDI PC Receive. If you are, change the BASE MIDI Channel to something other than 1 and use the new channel for automation messages. I have no clue about what Logic does, but if I had this problem in Reaper that's what I'd do. I'd also first try to find out why it's happening by using MIDI THRU to loop back to a MIDI Monitor (I assume Logic has one) to see what exactly is being sent and troubleshoot from there, but above is the simple solution.
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The amount of latency in the configuration you describe will be miniscule, maybe 6-8ms. Even if you're using wireless it will still be just at the 10ms average threshold of perception. Each AD/DA conversion takes <>2ms, so: G10 wireless - PG = 2ms PG - HXFX - = 2ms HXFX - PG = 2ms HXFX end to end = 2ms? PG end to end = 2ms? I'm not actually sure about the end to end numbers, as they somewhat depend on what FX are used. Unless you're Steve Vai (claims to be able to feel 2ms, but uses digital FX...), it won't be a problem.
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Using HX Edit you can perform a backup of your time consuming hand built presets. It's actually rule #1 of using a computer - "Back up early, back up often". As to why you can't get it to work with the Super 60, after a quick look at the Super 60 manual, there's no apparent reason why it shouldn't. Sending the HXS L/Mono Out to the Super 60 guitar input, the HXS Out should be set to INSTRUMENT, but you should still get sound even set to LINE. Did you try sending the Stomp L/Mono Out (set to LINE) to the Super 60 Power Amp In? I'd suggest attaching a sample preset for analysis, but....
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After playing my Catalyst 100 every day for 3 weeks, my opinion is the exact opposite on every point. Best bang for the buck of any modeling amp I've come across. It sounds like what you really want is a Spider. Or something else that doesn't actually exist. If you want a different amp, why did you buy a Catalyst? Or did you? My only complaint with the Catalyst is that you can't disable the cab sim on the XLR out. Since the 3 cab sims sound fine, and the mics actually affect the sound in a meaningful way, I can live with it. For $400, it ticks all the rest of the boxes.
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Having no such problem. Sounds like there's a configuration issue with your computer or Reaper itself. Is everything (OS, Reaper, Native) running the latest versions? Recent antivirus scans? Are you running an ACTIVE antivirus program (don't). Maybe if you provide some system information someone might be able to help?
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I only have one external exp pedal to test this with (Mission SP1-L6), but regardless of whether I connect it to Exp2 or Exp3, I'm not seeing the "fluttering" behavior that you describe. All 3 pedals (on-board 1/2 and external 2 or 3) all work and interact without problems. What kind of external pedals are you using? The only time I've had that inconsistent "fluttering" thing going on was when I first got the Mission. I'd connected it with an un-shielded "insert" cable. When I replaced that with better quality shielded cables the problem went away.
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I have the Mission SP1-L6. When I first got it I connected it using an unshielded "insert" type cable. It acted really crazy, jumping around, wouldn't go to 100%, just weird, I mean, the pedal is MADE to use with L6 devices, right? I replaced that cable with a pair of better quality shielded cables connected to a TRS to dual mono adapter. Works perfectly. Try different (better quality, shielded, shorter?) cables.
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Using HX Edit, in the "Bypass/Controller Assign" pane, find your exp pedal assignments and set them as desired. EDIT: as to the "flutter" thing, I've found, with multiple pedals and devices, that exp pedals are great for active use, but not so good for fine adjustments. Just the nature of the beast.
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MIDI and AUDIO are entirely independent of one another. Just connect a MIDI cable to the SPACE and use it the way you are currently with the native SPACE BYPASS method. See below. Yes. Yes. Yes. Yes. No. You can't automatically return from Stomp to Snapshot Mode. Workaround: If you're in Snapshot Mode 99% of the time but you're not using all 8 Snapshots you can configure the Stomps to call Snapshots and use one Stomp to toggle the SPACE. Thus no need to switch Modes at all. If you need access to more than the one Stomp for the SPACE (to bypass other Helix FX) you might also consider setting Stomps to call your most used Snapshots (the ones where you might want on-the-fly access to the SPACE toggle?) with the less used Snapshots accessible from Snapshot Mode. This leaves open the possibility of having more than one Stomp available. BOTTOM LINE: You may have more needs than you have buttons, in which case you either prioritize or get an external MIDI Controller.
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The following is based on a quick look at the SPACE Manual. There are a number of ways to BYPASS the SPACE. See pages 14, 41-43 and 46-47 to decide how you want to do it. The critical thing is that using MIDI, the SPACE uses PC#s for BYPASS, not CC#s. Very non-standard. Expression pedals send CC#s, so you can't use those. Reading the above referenced manual sections leads me to think that all of the native methods are an over complicated PITA. Here's the easy way - put the SPACE in it's own Helix FX Loop and assign a FS to the BYPASS function of of the FX Loop Block. Done. If the SPACE is always ON or OFF in certain Snapshots (you don't need on-the-fly control) just save the FX Loop Block ON or OFF in the Snapshots. Next?
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Repeating my answer from TGP: Stereo is nice at home if you like ambient sounds. Live not so much. 2 Cabs = wide stereo. Audience on the left hears the left side, audience on the right hears the right side. Useful? Live, 2 cabs one on each side in mono is better. Band members on both sides hear you, less stage volume required. PC212 = nice but doesn't add much to the band mix. Bottom line (IMO) - are you playing for your own enjoyment? Stereo is nice. PC212 works good at home. For an audience? Having the same signal on both sides of the stage is better. As always, YMMV.
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Backup anything you don't want to lose. Perform a Factory Reset: If that doesn't work, reflash the FW using the Line 6 Updater. FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS!!! Many of these type problems result from users not reading and FOLLOWING the update directions EXACTLY! Also make sure that if you use HX Edit that you have the latest version matching the FW version.
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