rd2rk

Open PC Edit. Go to the SYSTEM tab. You'll see High Frequency Trim. Drag that full left and play. Drag it full right and play. Your PC 112+ cabs should both sound the same - dull with the slider to the left, fizzy with the slider to the right. Get a pair of MIDI cables and daisy chain the cabs. Make sure that the first cab is set to MIDI THRU, and both are set to the BASE CHANNEL on your Helix. In your preset, set the first IC to CC#5 with a Value of 113. That equals 0.0db on the PCs, the default HF Driver level. Now you can create a simple preset with an identical IR on both the Helix and the PCs, set to switch with Snapshots, and easily A/B the cabs with IRs on Helix or in the cabs. Interesting Tidbits - When the PCs were first released, many users complained that FRFR sounded awful, and the common ignorance was to use LF Flat or LF RAW instead. IOW, HF Driver OFF. Then they complained that it sounded like there was a blanket over the cab! That was also a common complaint about the Speaker Mode. It's my opinion that the problem was that the coaxial speaker worked TOO WELL. AND that L6 Link was faulty in that it didn't consistently control the HF Driver in the various Modes. IRs were fizzy and thin sounding, Speaker emulations were too dull sounding (as well as "doesn't sound like the real thing" - like people who use modelers are ever going to agree on THAT!). From the earliest days of FRFR modelers, to battle fizz, users applied radical high cuts, removing "inaudible" high frequency content, then wondered why their modelers sounded like a$$. The real problem was that they were using PA speakers with separate drivers, and they had no control over the HF Driver levels. FIZZ! Especially standing only a few feet from a speaker meant to fill a hall with sound. Powercab was designed to solve both problems. The coaxial speaker combines the frequency ranges at the cab, not 20 feet away, and the HF Driver level can be controlled. The problem with that is that you need MIDI to do it, compounded by a horribly written manual that doesn't even mention it apart from what CC# you need to do it. Sending CC#5 with a Value of 105 drops the HF Driver level -6.5db, just enough to take the edge off. As always, YMMV. Likewise, sending a Value >0 adds life to the Speaker emulations. Rant over. Let me know how it goes!

Did you try it? Like I said, I don't have or use Logic. I can only work at solving the obvious problem BUT...I'll take a shot at what I see happening on the Helix end: Your Paths are more accurately called: Path 1A Path 1B Path 2 You have your guitar on Path 1A with XLR Out to the mixer - 1 from L/Mono or 2 from L and R? Doesn't matter unless you're using stereo FX. Your Tracks are coming into Path 1B (which you call Path 2) on USB 3/4 and being Output on Send 1 and Send 2 to the mixer. That requires 2 Send Blocks, which would need to be in parallel to get stereo. Since you only get 1 split per Path, and you've already split Path 1 into 1A and 1B...... Your Click track is coming into Path 2 (which you call Path 3) on USB 5/6, and being output on Sends 3 and 4. Same rule applies as for the Tracks on Path 1B. But do you really need the Click track in Stereo? Send that to Path 1B (what you call Path 2), only one Send Block/physical Send (I'd use Send 3)/mixer input required. Then send the Tracks to Path 2. (what you call Path 3). You should be able to Split that path to put the Send Blocks in Parallel, allowing you to Pan the signals in Helix and keep the stereo to Sends 3/4 (or 1/2 if you use Send 3 for the Click on Path 2B). If you don't want the Tracks and Click outputting to MULTI, set the Output Block Levels on both of those paths to -120db, which is effectively OFF. EDIT: IIRC, In Helix, ODD numbered USB signals are sent LEFT, Even sent RIGHT.

I don't hear it. Are you putting the IR at the end of the signal chain, and are you sure that when you load a preset with an IR, that the HF Driver is turning on, and likewise when the IR is in the PC+? L6 Link doesn't properly manage that, at least on my PC212+. Could that be the difference in what you're hearing? I just set up a test with a J45 Brt into a YA Frdman M25 Mix 1 on both Helix and My PC, switched by Snapshot over L6 Link. I'd been using Speaker emulation, for which I use MIDI to turn OFF the HF Driver. L6 Link DID NOT turn it back on like it's supposed to, and I had to use MIDI to make sure it was ON. I don't recall which PC you have. If it's the PC112+ I've been told that L6 Link works correctly, but I rarely take these things for granted, and don't have a PC112+ to test.

Don't know why it would do that. I did exactly the same thing to test, since I'd never used narrow ranges on a Toggle like that. It did what I expected. When the Preset loaded, it sent 10. The FS then sent 26 when I activated it. Nothing extra, nothing weird. After it sends 127, what happens when you hit the switch?

If you have a FS set to Toggle something by MIDI, that message will be sent at the time that the Preset loads. Check in CommandCenter to see if you have a Toggling CC set up with that CC on a FS, or if there's an IC sending that CC/Value.

Set the Click Buss Output to 5/6 so it'll hit the Helix Path 3 on 5/6 as configured. I don't use Logic (PC guy), but that seems LOGICal. :-)

Double the latency, double the noise, double the potential failure points, double the big nasty wall-warts, adding an exp pedal and pedalboard, you're close to the price and size of a new LT or a B stock Floor. Sell the mini unit you already have and get the tool that's made for the job.

Like I said, ignore it. The PC+ presets are only of concern if you're using a modeler without L6 Link.

Sounds like a job for the A-Team. Call support or open a ticket. Good Luck!

Have you tried a factory reset? Helix/Rack/LT/FX/Stomp Reset Procedures and Troubleshooting Tricks - HELIX/HX - Line 6 Community

Using Line6 Updater, re-flash the FW. Hope you made backups......

1 - yes. Whatever works best for the FOH engineer. 2 - Line. Unlike most powered "FRFR"/PA speakers, FRFR112 has no mic preamp.

When referring to something online, just include a link. I really had no clue what you were talking about, and it sounded "off key". Glad you found something useful. If more new users watched this kind of video AND RTM, life in L6 Land would be so much better.

I must be the only person in L6 Land that has no clue what you're talking about. This sounds like a sales promo. What are you selling?

To restore the Powercab to factory condition, re-flash the FW using the L6 Updater. Don't fret about anything on the PC display, it means nothing. The display does not accurately reflect the real world. The Powercab Presets are intended for use with non-L6 devices, employing MIDI to change the presets. Use L6 Link and the Powercab settings in your Helix Presets. I'm told that the function which automatically turns off the HF Driver in Speaker, LF Flat and LF Raw modes actually works in the PC112. It DOES NOT consistently work on the PC 212+ (which I have). If you want to test that, connect a MIDI cable and on a preset that uses one of the above mentioned modes, set a Footswitch to toggle CC#5 between 0 (HF Driver OFF) and 113 (HF Driver at UNITY 0.0db). If you hear a difference, it's not working, and you'll have to use an InstantCommand to turn it off in those modes. Everybody who owns a Powercab is hoping for an update/bug-fix, but L6 is being stubbornly silent on the subject.

Helix, PC212+, Scarlett 18i20, Ext HD, Printer, Wireless Mouse, 4 MIDI controllers (KB, eDrums, nanoKontrol for DAWs, Grid controller for LIVE! - oh, yeah, I forgot the FCB1010 - that's 5 MIDI/11 USB total) . No monitors though. The Helix is connected to the PC212+ by L6 Link, and the PC212+ Outs are connected by XLR to the Scarlett. The Scarlett also connects back to the PC212+ to get amp sims into it. There's a G10 wireless connected to the Helix by 1/4" to AUX (for bass, main guitar is cabled to Guitar IN), and the G10 XLR goes to the Scarlett (for dry tracking and amp sims). Laptop audio out goes to the Scarlett also so I can get backing trax and streaming audio sources into the DAW. The Helix and Scarlett USB go straight to the laptop, everything else connects either to the powered hub or the USB C hub (regular USB ports connected to the laptop by C Port). The trick for me was to connect the external HD to the USB C hub and all the MIDI controllers and the Mouse dongle to the powered hub. Blessed silence! Naturally, after trying EVERY USB in EVERY port, with and without the Isolator, the ext HD to USB C hub was the last thing I tried.....

I didn't have any luck with either disconnecting the laptop PSU or using a USB isolator, but I have a LOT of USB devices connected (10!), and both regular USB (powered) and USB C hubs. My solution ultimately involved switching things around to the different hubs until the noise went away. BIG PITA! I'm still not POSITIVE that it wasn't something I did inadvertently somewhere else in the system that solved it. The Isolator that I bought ($50!) I tried on every USB device, and all it ever did was ADD noise. YMMV.

This is a separate issue. When you have a USB ground loop issue, connecting the USB cable will result in a high pitched squeal which, when loud enough, resembles audio feedback. The solution for THAT issue (usually) lies in finding which of your connected USB devices are causing the ground loop. My suggested audio routing just gets the sound of the Spirit Amp into the recording/FOH chain and allows you to use Helix FX such as Global EQ/EQs/Compressors for post processing.

I assumed you were using L6 Link, which does not carry MIDI. L6 Link will, when the Powercab settings IN THE HELIX PRESET are set to SPEAKER/NATURAL, set that properly in the Powercab. Set that way, it's SUPPOSED to disable the HF Driver, but doesn't always do that. That's why you need to add a MIDI cable and use MIDI to FORCE the Powercab to do what you want. We're all hoping for an update/bug-fix, but L6 is stubbornly mute on the subject.

Global Settings>Footswitches>Stomp Select = Touch or Both You must be in STOMP MODE and EDIT. The FS will not TOGGLE by touch. TOUCH works as below. Setting Stomp Select to TOUCH or BOTH will SELECT (for editing) on TOUCH and TOGGLE on PRESS. Setting Stomp Select to PRESS TOGGLES on PRESS and on TOUCH selects whether the LED will be Dim or Lit when the device is in it's current state. OFF disables the TOUCH function. I thought that's what OFF meant. Apparently, it still sets the LED Status by touch, so I'm not sure what OFF means!

Troubleshooting steps in order: Check your cables. Try a different guitar. Make sure you're on the latest HX Edit. (not the cure, best practice) Do a Factory reset. (don't forget to BACK UP!) Use L6 Updater to re-flash the FW. FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS INCLUDING FACTORY RESET AFTER REBOOT!!! Call support.

Nothing I said was false. The BIG KNOB is the last stage before the DAC. Turning it DOWN does something (@phil_m explained it elsewhere) to the bit rate that negatively affects the noise floor. He has stated, as have I and others, that it's mostly not audible, more a recording engineer's concern. If I can't hear it, it's technical gobbledyg00k. What's more important is the consistency of the levels, both for consistent preset leveling and delivery to FOH. Here's some confusing info: That's why there's a MASSIVE pedal industry dedicated to creating BOOST and OVERDRIVE pedals, of which there are I don't even know how many in Helix. Something can be TRUE, but still be irrelevant in a given context. TMI. By that definition, my mention of SNR was TMI. I've edited my reply to reflect that. Are we good?

Guitar>Helix Input>any Helix FX you want in front of the Spirit. Place FX Loop 1 Block in the signal chain after the FX. Take SEND 1 (INST Level) from Helix to the Spirit Input. Return the signal to Helix FX Return 1 via the Spirit FX SEND. Place further Helix FX after the FX Loop Block 1. Place FX Loop Block 2 (LINE Level) after these FX. Take SEND 2 to the Spirit FX RETURN. Get an XLR to Balanced 1/4" adaptor and take the Redbox DI to the Helix FX RETURN 2. Take the Spirit's Speaker Out to the 412. Take the XLR Out from Helix to FOH (if required).

I read it as his having the snapshots/pitch shifting working, but wanting to put the pitch shifting duties onto a stomp. Yeah, not really very clear, but I had fun figuring out how to do it with MIDI. Hope it works for him.

In addition to what I posted above: You can use two Stomp footswitches to do this on Helix without a separate MIDI box. Disable MIDI THRU. Loop a MIDI cable from MIDI Out to MIDI In. Assign the MIDI commands mentioned to two footswitches. Works a treat, but you MUST disable MIDI THRU or you get a MIDI feedback loop that locks up the Helix.