rd2rk

Basic rule for all things on all modelers: Try it. If it sounds good TO YOU, it IS good. That said - and keep it in mind REGARDLESS of anyone else's opinions - here's my opinion. If your power amp has tubes, they're going to color the sound. You MIGHT like it, but if you're going for authenticity from your modeler, the full amp model already includes the proper color. If your power amp has EL34s and you like the Marshall sound, Try using the pre-amp version. Same goes for whatever tube type is in your power amp - 6v6 Fender;6L6 Fender/Mesa; EL84 Vox etc. IOW - a tube power amp will MOST LIKELY (but NOT NECESARILY) sound best with models of amps that came with THOSE tubes. If you're using a solid state power amp, unless the mfr claims a specific tube flavor, it shouldn't be adding any color to the sound, so use the full amp model. As for advanced parameters, read this: Sweetwater Publishing The Big Book of Helix Tips & Tricks v1.1 by Craig Anderton

What does that mean? You said that you succeeded in recording a DI (unprocessed) track. If so then you can send the output of that track to a track on which you have your processing plugin (Native, Metallurgy) for re-recording. That leaves your DI track untouched to re-record as many times as needed. Which DAW did you wind up using? Or did PT First allow the 3rd Party plugin?

As I stated above, this is normal. It's the sound of one preset unloading, then another one loading.

You need to RTM. All Helix family devices with Command Center can send MIDI Notes.

You can already do that. FS1 is dedicated to switching channels. FS2's function is FX Bypass by default, but can be changed to Boost in the app. Catalyst Edit>Global Settings (the GEAR icon in the upper right)>FS2 (FS icon)> Your choices are: Effect Bypass Boost Bypass Reverb Bypass Effect and Reverb Bypass Boost and Effect Bypass Boost and Reverb Bypass Tap Tempo To control more functions concurrently requires MIDI. If you have the Catalyst 60, to use MIDI requires a HOST (computer, dedicated HOST box/adapter).

de nada!

Yeah, now you've entered the realm of demonic interference. :-) Good Luck!

If by this you mean using the HD500 for FX only in the Cat's FX Loop, take the Cat Send to the HD Input and the HD Output to the Cat Return, MODE Switch set to FX Loop and app FX Loop Switch ON. Guitar to Cat INPUT. EDIT: No FX Loop Block required on the HD.

First - I have the Catalyst 100. The ONLY difference is that the Catalyst 200 has two amps and two speakers. Otherwise, the amps are identical. I tried putting myself in your shoes. Plugged my guitar straight into the INPUT. PHYSICAL MODE switch to the LEFT (FX Loop). Everything works as expected. Open the app. Settings>FX Loop switch OFF. Everything works as expected. App Settings>FX Loop switch ON = NO SOUND. BECAUSE THERE"S NOTHING IN THE FX LOOP! If I patch the SEND to the RETURN, I get SOUND! Did you mistype? Test it again. 4cm I can't troubleshoot your HD500X configuration, as I dumped mine 6 years ago when I got my Helix. However, the actual wiring should be the same. Guitar>Multifx INPUT>MFX SEND>Catalyst INPUT>CATALYST SEND>MFX RETURN>MFX OUTPUT>CATALYST RETURN. MODE SWITCH (on the back of the Catalyst) to the left = FX LOOP APP SETTINGS>FX Loop = ON This is the correct configuration for 4cm. IIRC, the HD500X requires a Send/Return (FX Loop) Block in the signal chain just like my Helix. If you flip the MODE switch to the RIGHT (Power Amp), that gives the result you described - physical FX Loop is out of the signal chain.

Works "fine" on mine, if you consider "fine" having to turn the knob 57 times to get a noticeable effect. Exaggeration of course, but it does take 3-4 full turns before I get a 3db reduction. It's WAY less annoying to just use the volume slider on the app.

I just figured you accidentally typed minutes instead of seconds. It takes 10 seconds (just timed it) on my i7/Win10 laptop. If it's taking 5 minutes to launch, you either have a problem with your MAC or there's a bug that L6 Support either knows about or needs to know about. If you're in the U.S., call support. Otherwise, open a support ticket. Please report back here when you get a resolution.

ADD INFO: Don't forget to turn OFF MIDI PC SEND in Global Settings>MIDI/Tap Tempo to prevent transmitting the default Helix Preset PC# when loading the preset.

I DL'd the preset. To see the Snapshots you need to have PRESET Mode set to show Snapshots or press the UP/DOWN switches to go into Snapshot Mode. From the DSL Manual: The MIDI receive channel is factory-set to channel 1. In order to set a different channel, press and hold the Loop On/Off switch (Front Panel Function #23) while powering up the amplifier to activate MIDI waiting mode. The LED will flash until a valid MIDI command is received. The MIDI receive channel will be set to the channel of that command. Note: When the 2-way footswitch is connected the amplifier will not respond to any MIDI messages. In the preset, the MIDI Channel is set to MIDI Channel 1. This is the default for both Helix (BASE) and the DSL. I couldn't find the specifics in the manual that I have, but if the DSL works like other MIDI amps, You'll need to manually put the amp into the channel you want, put the amp into RECEIVE mode, then load the Snapshot that sends the PC# you need for that Amp Channel, and repeat for each Amp channel. I assume (there's that word) that when the amp is in RECEIVE Mode the audio is OFF. @tminglePlease jump in if I'm wrong about this or I've left something out.

Yes, that is the normal behavior. When using HX Edit with Helix, starting w/o a Helix connected results in a "No Device Connected" message. Don't know why they didn't implement that in Catalyst Edit.

It has to be saved that way in BOTH snapshots, else the values in Snapshot2 default to "NEXT".

The Tone King goes between your amp's Speaker Out (TK Amplifier IN) and the Speaker (TK Speaker Out). 4cm remains the same.

In Global Settings>INS/OUTS, RETURN TYPE needs to be set to RETURN.

No. Guitar players like guitars. Existential guitar truth #1 - there's no such thing as "too many guitars". No logical reason required to want another beyond "I want it! I have money!". Existential guitar truth #2 - there's no way a non-musician can fully comprehend this. UNLESS - Many women have extensive collections of shoes. Or handbags. Some of these cost as much as fine guitars! If your wife is one of these, or has a friend who has such a collection, that's your out!

What I said about attenuators still holds, BUT - The question of how to use the BIG KNOB is somewhat nuanced. The Output level control is PRE converter - that is, it's in the digital, not analog area. Theoretically, there's a tonal effect inherent in turning it down, based on some geeky bit-rate stuff. I (and others) have compared the sound at full and lower settings while using an amp's output control to compensate for Fletcher-Munson and, TBH, I can't hear the difference. Since the L7 is a SS amp, the tube driving aspect is irrelevant, but that leaves Fletcher-Munson. You COULD use the Global EQ to try and compensate for that and it MIGHT sound OK. I've done this with my Powercab with mixed results, but then, I didn't spend much time on it. The new L6 Catalyst series has .5/50/100 watt settings and supposedly they've incorporated EQ compensation into the lower settings. I use my Catalyst100 in an apartment on the .5 watt setting and it sounds very good between 60-75db (conversation levels). Since you already have both Helix and the L7, there's certainly no harm in trying it out. With Global EQ to counter F-M it just might sound fine!

One of the classic electric guitarist's dilemmas. What you want is an attenuator. The cheap passive attenuators suck a lot. You want the kind with "reactive load". The cheap ones like the Two Notes Captor X suck a little less than the passive ones (I've had both Bugera and Captor X). The good ones - Ox Box/Waza TAE/Fryette PS2 - are very expensive. Go to Sweetwater and search for "attenuator" to get a better idea what's out there. Also check out Suhr and Fryette.

OK.

I won't. I really don't care. I just like to argue with you because you're never wrong, and unfailingly civil in your replies. Fascinating!

You're going to play a bunch of gigs with a POS modeler stuffed with cheap components that will probably fail in the middle of a song... OK, that makes perfect sense to me! Good Luck with that!

You're the second person today having MAC/USB problems (different problem). I can't duplicate his problem either. Maybe try opening a support ticket? Could be a known problem. Good Luck!