rd2rk

Global Settings>Footswitches>Stomp Select. Set that to TOUCH. If that doesn't fix it you may have to perform a Factory Reset. Don't forget to BACK UP first!

This has been noted by someone else. You should open a support ticket.

Check that your Input Levels and Sample Rates haven't changed. Remove the offenders, SAVE the preset, then add them back in. That's all I can think of.

You know the kind of music you want to play. What kind of gear do the people who play that kind of music use? HXS/HXSXL have 8 slots for amps/cabs/fx. You know that you need an amp and a cab. That can be a single amp+cab (any L6 cab). UNLESS you MUST have stereo. It's OK to have your time based fx (delay, reverb) AFTER the amp+cab. Putting them BETWEEN the amp and cab is NOT the same as having them in an fx loop, and comparisons have been done showing that it makes little or no difference. On the records, they were probably added in post production anyway. So, one block for amp+cab. Gonna do Metallica? GOTTA have a WAH! So- WAH,Amp+Cab,Delay, Reverb. That's 4 of your 8 blocks. Now you have to consider DSP. Some amps require LOTS more than others. Example - the PV Vitriol (PV Invective - Misha Mansoor/Periphery) - uses a HUGE amount of DSP. There's THREE - Clean, Crunch and Lead. On my HXS I was able to make a single amp+cab (LEAD) preset with WAH-Vol-808-Phaser-EQ-Delay-Reverb. On my Helix Floor (LT with scribble strips) I was able to create a Clean/Crunch/Lead (amps only) preset with all of the above plus Cab and still had DSP - on Path 2. All I could get on Path 1 was two amps and the WAH. There's a DSP list (how much specific blocks use) here: https://benvesco.com/store/helix-dsp-allocations/ So you see, you need to plan ahead for how much DSP you'll need to accomplish your goals. The HXS preset I described above is an extreme example of DSP usage and sounds quite good to me, but then, I don't play that kind of music. FWIW - If floor space is not an issue, I'd just get the LT if I couldn't afford the full-fat Floor model, but you can obtain very good full featured sounds with the HXS/HXSXL too!

I moved your cabs down to Path 2. That freed up the DSP on Path 1. Attached. LHM drop2.hlx

To maximize your investment and obtain the most functionality, get a Powercab+ and an AES/EBU cable. This allows you to set your PC+ configuration from the presets on your Helix and provides single cable connectivity. Each preset can have a different configuration instantly! How does it sound? It sounds great. Does it sound better than the IK, Fender and other alternatives? We all have different ears. Only you can decide, and only by trying them side-by-side in YOUR environment - NOT Guitar Center! I have a PC212+. Stereo or mono and set to full width it sounds great. Mostly I use it with the NATURAL speaker emulation with no cabs/IRs - that's the raw Eminence 12" speakers with no eq AITR! Some people prefer the LF RAW setting which is supposed to be the same but sounds different. Some days I feel like using it with the speaker emulations, some days I use it FRFR with cabs/IRs. Speaking of IRs, you can store 128 of them ON the Powercab, and select them from the presets on the Helix. Saves DSP and you can use different emulations on each speaker. You can also use analog cables from your audio interface concurrently with the AES/EBU cable and route your amp sims through it, using Helix to control the DAW and amp sims via MIDI. There's lots of PC112+ available used because the Powercabs are complicated to use to full advantage (vs plug-n-play for the others) and, IMO, being expensive new, many players suffer buyer's remorse when they don't just sound great out of the box. I originally had the PC112+ and traded up for the stereo possibilities of the PC212+, but in retrospect I often consider picking up a used PC112+ simply because I'm old and carrying the PC212+ down/up 2 flights and across the parking lot is a PITA - 48lbs vs 32lbs and much smaller. I haven't because I don't play out enough anymore to make it worthwhile. But if I have extra money in the bank and one pops up on CL for a good price...

I heard an AI playing the guitar. It sounded very digital. USB 3 is fine. IDK about the BT thing. If you get noise, unplug the BT. If the noise goes away, plug the BT in somewhere else. It's called "wireless" for a reason...

Indeed, words have meanings. Many people are unaware of that fact. I blame Hollywood, Madison Avenue and Public "education" systems. The influence on the music scene and young people in general of Beavis and Butthead can not be over emphasized.

It's music. Objectivity has nothing to do with it. That's the error.

There's not a lot of documentation available regarding the interaction between the modeled Power Amp section, Master Volume and Presence. Presence normally controls the high frequencies in the Power Amp section. IF the modeled Power Amp section interacts with the Master Volume, then turning up the Master should emphasize the high frequencies. Try turning down the presence when playing louder. Another thing that is not well documented is that the 1/2w setting has Fletcher-Munson compensation built in. That means that at lower volume the lows and highs are emphasized. How that works in relation to the Master Volume sweep is anybody's guess. You might try using the next higher attenuator setting (you didn't specify which model you're using) and then use the Channel Volume (which shouldn't affect the tone) to set the final spl level vs using the Master Volume. You'll need to experiment with the Master/Presence settings, but this takes the F-M compensation variable out - I THINK. Again, not well documented. NOTE - while the Channel Volume SHOULDN'T affect tone, I have read in at least one place that it does. I don't buy it, but...

Which Rat are you using? IIRC, the original, the Vermin, had some problems that were fixed in the Ratatouillie. They decided to keep both because some people liked the Vermin? Anyhow, if you're using the Vermin you might try replacing it with the Ratatouille. IDK if that'll fix your problem, but it's worth a shot. It's a strange problem, and using 3 Rats at a time is...um...unusual? It's not likely anyone else has had that particular problem, and troubleshooting intermittent weirdness is always a PITA. The only other suggestion I have is - whenever intermittent weirdness happens, first, I perform a Factory Reset. If that doesn't work, I reinstall the FW. Either way, DON'T FORGET TO BACK UP FIRST! Last resort - open a support ticket. Good Luck with that!

Didn't know it had USB HOST Mode.

Very strange. I'm going to go with try re-installing the FW (BACK UP FIRST!). If that doesn't work, attach a sample preset that shows this behavior. Maybe there's something that you've started doing in all of your presets? It's a long shot, but if re-installing the FW doesn't fix it your only other option is a support ticket.

Try taking the DI out of the signal chain. The Stomp's Outs are already BALANCED, so not necessary. If it works, and you NEED XLR, get a 1/4" balanced to XLR adapter. "at last iteration of this same setup I had a TONEX One where the stomp goes and it was dead-quiet. " The ToneX Out is INSTRUMENT level, so set the Stomp's outs to INSTRUMENT.

What exactly do you think the Paint will allow you to do that the MODE switch doesn't already?

I cranked up my Catalyst to 100db and was able to detect a TINY bit of static when touching a switch with bare fingers. We humans are, after all, electrically charged creatures and even moving through the air generates static, so I'm not surprised. I don't play barefoot, or even with socks only, and hardly ever at those kind of SPLs, so maybe why I never noticed? Nothing when pressing switches with shoes on. As for hum, apart from the normal amount that you should expect from ANY really high gain preset, there's nothing I wouldn't otherwise expect. Without being in the room with you and your gear I can't say for sure, but based solely on your recordings I don't think you have a problem.

Always connected, Edit always open, no problem here. I'll keep my eyes open and see if it pops up. Intermittent problems are such a PITA to troubleshoot. After a while they cause me to question my sanity!

This is a user-to-user support forum. Nobody here from L6 to hear your plea! I would also welcome a NAM block. Meanwhile, my ToneX sits in a loop of my Helix. Having A/B'd the two extensively, I've found that I get close enough with Helix that I forget which one I'm using. We all have different ears and expectations, though, so...

You didn't specify your OS, so I'll assume Windows. Windows can only use ONE ASIO device at a time. That device handles both Input and Output. You would need to get an external Audio Interface. Use that as the ASIO in Reaper and connect the DI Out from the Catalyst to the AI Input. Connect the AI Output to your speakers. In Windows Sound Panel set the AI as the Playback device to get computer sounds, streaming, etc. to the speakers. The Behringer Euphoria series is VERY cheap. Emphasis on VERY CHEAP - UM2 is <>$50. But they work. I personally favor the Focusrite Scarlett series. Scarlett Solo is <>$100. They work VERY well. NOTE - if you think you'll want to record your playing with backing tracks or streaming you'll need to set the Windows Playback Device to the computer's sound card and connect the computer's output to the AI. IOW - the AI will need to have at least two more LINE Inputs (or one STEREO Input) in addition to the DI from the Cat.

OK then, we're hearing different things. This is not a problem on mine. Things I can think of off the top of my head: Does the Ground Switch do anything? Can you hear it through the HP Out? What are you monitoring through? Is it on the same AC circuit as Helix? Are both connected to an EMI/RFI Surge Arrestor Power Strip? *** If not, GET ONE NOW!!! Are there florescent lights, dimmers or large appliances like HVAC or refrigerators on that circuit? Does it go away if you disconnect the USB? If none of the above, open a support ticket.

I'm not hearing the "crackling" going away when you lift your foot. Is the preset in the video the same one you sent me?

It's the sample preset you sent me, modded to fix what I heard. Does that preset (the modded version) still have the problem that YOU hear in the sample preset that you sent me?

Setting it to TOUCH also solves the problem (unless you're barefoot) but still allows you to quickly get to the parameters of the other assigned switches.

Try the attached preset. If we're hearing the same thing, it may be caused by having your amps in series. Putting them in parallel paths with an A/B split solves what I'm hearing. You'll probably need to rethink your Snapshots. PRACTICE Mod.hlx

Global Settings>Footswitches>Stomp Select OFF - always on Homescreen TOUCH - Homescreen unless you TOUCH the FS PRESS - Homescreen unless you PRESS the FS TOUCH & PRESS - Homescreen unless you TOUCH or PRESS the FS