rd2rk

It works that way in ALL modes. I messed around with it a bit and this is what I found: Each effect has its own default SYNC setting. If you change it, the first time you use TAP from the FS, it stays at your setting. The second time it switches back to the default. If you use MIDI TAP (CC#64 Value 127) the SYNC setting does not revert. Seems like a bug in the way the FS works. I use MIDI which is why I never noticed this. You have three choices. 1- setting the tempo manually in the app doesn't revert the SYNC setting. 2- Report it to support which, considering the fires, may take a while to get a response which will probably be "I'll pass this up to the developers" and that'll be the end of it. 3- Get a MIDI controller. If you're serious about using the functions not available via the panel, this is the way to go. I recommend the Hotone Ampero Control. Relatively inexpensive ($120), small, VERY powerful and relatively easy to program from a smart phone or tablet using BT but has DIN connectors so BT is NOT required during regular operation if you have the Cat100/200. The CX60 will require a full-time USB connection to your mobile device and a routing app such as AUM if you have iOS. IDK what you'd use with an Android device. Maybe Audio Evolution Mobile Studio? You'd also need a HUB so that you can connect both the controller and a charger to keep the mobile device from dying during performance. All of this works great with iOS (tested on my Cat100) but again, IDK about Android - I don't allow them in my house! NOTE - if you want to try this - for programming via BT - my iPhone SE connects fine, but my ancient iPad Air will not connect. BT is weird like that and I'm clueless as to how anything works with Androids. Buy the Ampero someplace with a good returns policy like Amazon or look for a controller that does not require BT but will send multiple commands per press.

I've posted this elsewhere in this thread, but here it is again: The POWER AMP IN position of the MODE SWITCH attenuates the signal (in all attenuator settings) by (IIRC) 6db to accommodate preamps/multifx whose output is LINE LEVEL only. The FX LOOP position provides FULL VOLUME for use with devices whose output is INSTRUMENT level, which is what most guitar amp fx loops expect. Helix/HX devices can be set to either LINE or INSTRUMENT level outputs. Check your Kemper manual to see if it also has that feature and set the MODE SWITCH accordingly.

Scroll Down in HX Edit, Page Right on the box.

2) The Dual Cab's 2 speakers can be panned hard L/R. By default they're centered, which sounds like MONO.

My "studio" setup has a LOT of stuff connected to the computer via USB. I use "hum busters" like the Pyle PHE300 and PHE400 (for XLR) and they eliminate USB ground loop hum completely.

The SEND/RETURN on the HXFX should probably be set to INSTRUMENT.

How are you powering the BR80? It's not unusual for BUS powered devices to be noisy, it's a common problem with cheaper BUS powered AIs. If you're using a DC Power Supply, what kind? if it's a multi output are the outputs isolated? Is the PS connected on the same circuit as the LT? Are there fluorescents, rheostats or appliances on that circuit? If they're connected to the same power strip, is it filtered for EMI/RMI? Are you using a shielded cable to connect the BR80?

@silverheadposted while I was typing. His suggestion can be better if fine tuning is required. My way spares a block. Use the one that works best for your situation.

The Input Block of each preset has a PAD. ON for ACTIVE; OFF for PASSIVE. You can set it to SNAPSHOTS or a FS or have separate presets.

Your Snapshot was disabling the unwanted amp, but not the signal path it was on. Try the attached mod. By changing the split to A/B and assigning the A/B Split to Snapshots, it switches the signal path. Note that it's no longer required to disable the unwanted amp. This practice can sometimes prevent unwanted "pops" when switching snapshots. 5150 III MOD.hlx

Helps to know which device you're using - Helix, HXS or? How are you wired? If you attach an example preset it helps with troubleshooting.

You are not actually switching "channels" in the same way as with an analog amp. Each of the 12 "channels" is actually a digital "preset". The "blip/pause" is due to the time it takes to unload the current preset and load a new one. Same thing happens with a full-fat Helix unless you've enabled "Preset Spillover" which requires dedicating one of the two processors to load the second preset before unloading the first. There's only the one processor in the Catalyst, so that's not possible.

When using the RETURN, setting the MODE Switch to "Power Amp In" bypasses everything**, sending the signal direct to the Power Amp. You can also use the "FX Loop" position, which allows you to use any of the Cat's FX that are placed in the POST position. I use it this way when using the Cat with my HX Stomp to free up blocks/dsp on the HXS. **Poorly documented is the Fletcher-Munson EQ compensation applied to the Power Amp in the .5db attenuator setting. This provides a fuller sound at low volume by boosting specific low and high frequencies. Also, the overall Output Level at ALL attenuator settings is further attenuated by (IIRC) 6db when the MODE Switch is in the "Power Amp In" position. I assume that this is to accommodate preamps/multifx that have only a LINE Level output. Helix/HX multifx outputs can be set to either INSTRUMENT (as expected by most guitar amp FX Loops) or LINE. While you CAN, of course, use IRs when using the Cat's RETURN, I have gotten mixed results. The Catalyst is NOT a FRFR speaker, it is a "Special Design" Eminence guitar speaker. An IR is, functionally, simply a specific EQ curve designed to mimic a specific guitar speaker/cab combination. If it SOUNDS GOOD TO YOU, then go for it. However, the speaker is NOT DESIGNED to be used with IRs. It is a guitar speaker designed to sound good with a range of amp types in an open back cab.

MIDI is not instantaneous, there's a small amount of latency involved even when sending a single message. Even when you think you're sending multiple MIDI messages at the same time, they're sent sequentially and there is an unavoidable delay between them. Also, it takes time to unload the current preset and load the new one, and it can't respond to the CC until it's loaded. The sum of those latencies may make what you're trying to do impractical. You won't know if it works for your needs if you don't try it. First, figure out how to do it in Ableton, it might not even be possible. Then start at 1ms and work up until you get it.

No. If, by "experience" you mean "feel" then, NO they won't all "feel" the same. If by, "experience" you mean "sounds like hifi vs AITR", then it totally depends on YOUR definition of "hifi" vs "AITR". You're looking for a definitive, objective answer to a question that has only ambiguous, subjective answers. I say again - "All that matters is if YOU like the way it sounds. I like the way it sounds." EDIT: Some days I think my PC212+ sounds like lollipop, so I use my Catalyst100 instead. Sounds GREAT. Go figure!

IME, the "hifi" sound is a result of engaging the coax tweeter. When I (infrequently) decide to try FRFR mode using one of the many thousands of IRs that I wasted my money on, I cut the HF Trim on the PC by a couple of db and the IRs become MUCH less "hifi" sounding. I try the speaker emulations until I find one that sounds good with the (helix) amp I'm using, then I use the amp's tone-stack just like I would ITRW. FWIW, I do not have an OC personality. It baffles me when I read on the forums that it takes someone HOURS to "dial in" a Helix preset. It takes me minutes. This may be a result of having started performing with bands in 1963, when our options were "Plug it in, turn it on, ROCK OUT!". :-)

Sounds like there needs to be a WAIT between the messages. This is not uncommon with MIDI devices and SW. Not sure how to do it in Ableton, but 10ms should be enough.

Yes, more. Way more? IDK. All that matters is that YOU like the way it sounds. Yes. Because it IS a real speaker in a cab. All that matters is if YOU like the way it sounds. Keep in mind that any Guitar speaker in a small open back 1x12 cab will sound different than the same speaker in a Mesa Thiele cab which will sound different than the same speaker in an oversized PV cab which will sound different than the same speaker in a Powercab PC112 cab which will sound different than the emulation of that speaker in the Powercab Cabinet. The end result is the sum of the speaker AND the cab. All that matters is if YOU like the way it sounds. I like the way it sounds. Final notes - I have had BOTH the PC112+ and (currently) the PC212+. They are NOT designed for bedroom levels. I find that 75db is about the place where they start to sound good. Louder is better. Google Fletcher-Munson. Also - what sounds "middy" when playing solo at home will usually cut better when live with a full band than a "scooped" cab, and EQ requirements will vary with the venue. That is the purpose of the GLOBAL EQ in Helix.

AFAIK, LF RAW is the actual un-EQ'd special design Eminence speaker without the coaxial tweeter engaged. The speaker emulations are that RAW speaker, without the coaxial tweeter engaged, EQ'd to sound like a specific GUITAR speaker. Nobody outside of L6 knows the actual EQ curves applied to obtain the "emulations". Likewise, nobody outside of L6 and Eminence knows the technical specifications of the speakers in the Powercabs, but I believe that they were designed to be somewhat more full range than typical guitar speakers in order to facilitate the EQ curves required for the emulations and to get the best sound possible in FRFR mode. That would explain the perception that they have more highs/lows than the emulations. Just like dedicated GUITAR speakers in real dedicated GUITAR cabinets. There's no way to know how accurate the emulations are without replacing the special design Eminence speakers with the real-world speaker being emulated because the cabinet design matters! Bottom line - choose the mode/emulation that comes closest to the sound that you're after and use EQ to fine tune it to taste.

If your Spark sounds better, that's the way to go.

I assume that when you say "gain" in this context you mean the "Input (L or R on my PC212+) Gain" as set and displayed on the PC itself. That sets the level received from the physical XLR/TS Input(s) on the PC. The L6 Link level is set from the PRESET as displayed on Helix or in HX Edit. IIRC, when using a pair of PC112+ with L6 Link the Input Level of Cab 2 matches that of Cab 1 regardless of the individual (1/2) settings. I could be wrong. Test by setting them differently in the PRESET. This is a known bug(?) which will likely never be fixed. The Powercabs are apparently (and unfortunately), abandonware. On my PC212+ the Input LEDs will react relative to the L6 Link Levels in the Preset (NOT the GAIN levels on the PC), but PC Edit (FRFR/FLAT) always shows the setting of Speaker 1 (Cab 1 with dual PC112s), which would seem to confirm the aforementioned "bug". Whether it's actually a "bug" or an undocumented design decision is a question that L6 has steadfastly refused to address in any of the forums that I frequent.

I don't see a "Get Tone" button either. I see a list of presets. Superimposed on each is a rectangle with an "eyeball" icon. Tapping it appears to "select" it, but that's it. Since I've never found a useful sound on Customtone, I long ago stopped bothering with it. Workaround - works using OneDrive (OneDrive app required) or iCloud Drive: DL the tones to your iCloud/OneDrive, then (on your iPhone, from FILES>BROWSE>iCloud/OneDrive) copy them to the FILES>BROWSE>On My iPhone>Catalyst Edit>Presets folder. They'll now appear in the list when you select Load Preset in Catalyst Edit on iPhone. If downloading tones from Customtone directly to your iPhone matters, I suggest you contact support. My bet would be that it's a known issue.

BT is only necessary for configuration, and the problem I have is that the Ampero won't pair with my iPad, though it connects fine with my iPhone. However, you want to be able to keep your iPhone charged during performance. To do that you'll need something like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08THFB3FQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1 or the "C" version if that's what your iPhone has. That allows you to connect the USB from the Ampero AND lightning/c from a wall charger.

Check to see that "Footswitch Momentary" is OFF (left position).

Based on the minimal information that you provided, I suggest using wires. I know, smartass response, but without specific goals, how can anyone possibly suggest any more than that? Start by reading the Helix manual to understand its capabilities. Then, draw a diagram of your desired audio and MIDI signal flows. If you do both of those you will probably be able to answer most of your questions and you will then be able to formulate specific questions that we might be able to address.