rd2rk

OP specified that they are using Windows 10. The "Core Isolation" problem is a Windows 11 bugaboo and if you search the forum you'll find many discussions and workarounds. BUT... it is not what is causing the ASIO problem in Win10, which I did not have on either of my Win10 boxes.

It would appear that your friends are sending you presets from packs they've purchased on the L6 Marketplace. That's a BIG NO-NO! Either buy the packs or inform your friends of the error of their ways!

Yes, one of the differences between the 60 and 100.

Load the attached preset. Plug your guitar into the guitar input. Plug your bass (or whatever) into the AUX input. Plug 1/4" L/MONO Out into your guitar/power amp. Plug 1/4" Right Out to your bass/power amp. Your guitar, live or looped, will come out your guitar amp. Your bass, live or looped, will come out your bass amp. Simply switch the looper from Record In/Out to loop or play live. AnthoAllen.hlx

Only you can answer that. I think that the new 5150III sounds great!

To expand on what @datacommandosaid - using MIDI with HXN could be the most troublesome aspect. Most affordable MIDI controllers use MIDI DIN connectors, which would require DIN connectors on the AI, which would significantly increase the cost for that. As DC said, your best bet cost-wise would be a used LT if you can handle the increased latency. That shouldn't be a problem unless you're SUPER sensitive to latency or a "shredder". But then, why bother with HXN at all? Also consider that full MIDI control of the presets in HXN would require a LOT of time configuring them, as there's no way to do it GLOBALLY. I would just forget about HXN and just get the LT or HXS/HXSXL, which is what I do.

Looking at the "Handbook" it appears that you would need to run a MONO SEND (set to INSTRUMENT level in GLOBAL SETTINGS>INS/OUTS) from Helix to the amp's guitar input with the THRU parameter set to -120db (OFF), then use a stereo cable from the CAB RIG/HP OUT to a pair of Helix RETURNS (Stereo RETURN Block, LINE/INSTRUMENT Level? Try both). To use the amp's speakers, you'd run a stereo cable from Helix L/R Main Outs (set to LINE) to the amp's LINE IN. You may need a special adapter to accommodate the 1/8" TRRS to the dual 1/4" needed for the Helix Outs. Use the Helix XLR Outs (set to MIC) for FOH.

@stevenrossbrown If you're considering the Hotone Ampero Control, HOLD OFF FOR NOW! I got mine today. It can only be edited using a mobile app via BT, and I can't for the life of me get it to connect to BT! My iPad sees my WAZA AIR HP, and every one of my other devices as well as all of my neighbor's devices, but after initially connecting, it won't reconnect. I've opened a support ticket, but got no confirmation and AFAICT, nobody else has ever gotten a reply from Hotone support (in CHINA!). There's little to no info on the web, so I'll wait a week before I return it to Amazon with an appropriate review! I'm looking at the AIRSTEP MULTI (Xsonic). I have the BW version that is specific to the WAZA AIR HP. It also has problems with BT (drops the connection frequently), but the app (which doesn't actually work with the BW, which is not configurable, being specific to the WAZA) at least SEES it and allowed me to update the FW. Unfortunately, it's twice as much as the Hotone (you get what you pay for?) and since I don't really need it... at least I know that they actually have support, as they answered my question about the BW promptly. I HATE BT!

My office rig is an ancient Gateway i5 laptop with 8gb memory. I use my HXS as an interface (not great latency) - 12.5ms at 64spls) in Reaper. My Scarlett 18i20 (2nd gen) in my studio (HP i7 laptop with 16gb) gets 7.6ms. The Scarlett Solo interface (4th gen) is $140, but you can probably get it for less on a Black Friday sale.

Hook it up once in 4cm, you get these possible configurations with the 4cm wiring: 1 - If you include an FX Loop Block in the signal chain, then the path is: Guitar>HXS IN>HXS FX>HXS SEND>AMP INPUT>AMP SEND>HXS RETURN>HXS FX>HXS OUT>AMP RETURN You have FX PRE and POST your amp's preamp. In this configuration, if you place an HXS AMP/PREAMP next to the FX Loop Block you can sub your amp's PREAMP for the HXS AMP/PREAMP simply by toggling the FX Loop ON and the HXS AMP OFF (normal 4cm using your amp's preamp with FX pre/post) or vice versa (HXS AMP ON/FX Loop OFF=HXS AMP/PREAMP/ALL FX straight to your amp's power section). If you don't use any HXS FX between the HXS IN and the HXS SEND (FX Loop ON), then it's like placing FX in the amp's FX Loop. Guitar>HXS IN>HXS SEND>AMP INPUT>AMP SEND>HXS RETURN HXS FX>HXS OUT>AMP RETURN 2 - If you EXCLUDE the FX Loop Block, then the path is: Guitar>HXS IN>HXS FX>HXS AMP>HXS FX>HXS OUT>AMP RETURN You're using the HXS AMP/FX into your amp's power section. Your amp's preamp is out of the path. 3 - If you only use an FX SEND with the THRU parameter set to -120db (OFF) then the path is: Guitar>HXS IN>HXS FX>HXS SEND>AMP INPUT Just like an old school pedalboard. IOW - no need to rewire for different presets!

Keep in mind that all my file does is to randomly switch presets in a single Bank. If I planned to record ACROSS Banks I would assign the destination presets to footswitches. Otherwise, there's too much time wasted manually switching Banks and Presets.

No problem here. Running LIVE 12.1 and Reaper 7.27. Maybe try uninstall/reinstall HX Edit? That will get you the latest ASIO version.

Yes. You also need to update HX Edit.

The wah/volume/exp pedal (Soulpress II) was suggested IN ADDITION to the Ampero Control, since I've read that other expression pedal options have trouble calibrating with the Ampero Control, and who doesn't need a WAH? But you already have a WAH, as do I, so the Soulpress is not essential. I'll let you know how it stacks up. I installed the Ampero editor on my iPhone long ago, and it looks pretty easy to use.

If you do decide on an FCB1010, be aware that using the stock chip is limiting. Better alternative below. While it CAN be configured to send toggling CC#, the LEDs will NOT reflect the ON/OFF status. Either try to find one that has already had the UNO Chip Mod, or factor that into your purchase. Also, regardless of that, get the UNO_ControlCenter Editor. Without it, programming the FCB is MADDENING! In addition to the MIO (IN connector goes to device OUT and vice versa) you'll need the camera kit. The link below is what I use. My iPad/iPhone have lightning connectors. You may need to look for the proper connectors if yours does not have Lightning. This kit/hub has two type A camera connectors, one for the MIO and one for the Cat60. It also has a Power connector. This allows you to keep the iPad/iPhone charged while in use. iOS Lightning Camera Kit/Hub: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08T913J3D?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title Here's links to the UNO chip and Editor. Note that the Editor works with the stock FCB Chip as well as the UNO chip: UNO Chip: https://www.fcb1010.eu/ UNO_ControlCenter: https://www.fcb1010.uno/ I use AUM for the iOS MIDI routing because it has a lot of other capabilities, but there's also an app called MIDIFLOW which just does MIDI, but in that context has more functions than AUM, akin to classic MIDI utilities like MIDIOX. HAVING SAID ALL OF THAT... The FCB1010 with UNO is quite capable, and if you NEED to have 10 switches available at all times it is probably the most economical choice. HOWEVER - it is BIG, UGLY and somewhat limited in its capabilities. The UNO chip adds functionality, and the UNO2 chip does away with almost all of those limitations, but programming UNO2 is actual programming, not a GUI interface like UNO_ControlCenter. It's not a complex programming language, and if you have programming experience (I do), it's NBD, but if not, it can be daunting. Look at this instead: Ampero Control: *SEE BELOW FOR ISSUES! https://www.hotone.com/products/controlers/Ampero Control Advantages - you don't need the MIO cheaper and as powerful as the FCB/UNO2 small and flexible - connect via standard MIDI, USB or BT (I do not recommend BT, I find it undependable. YMMV) useful beyond the requirements of the Catalyst get a HOTONE wah/volume/exp pedal and do it all MUCH cheaper/smaller than FCB/UNO/ControlCenter/MIO easy to program via iPhone or Android I do not have one of these, as I have many other MIDI controllers and a Cat100, but I WANT one, just because. If you get it from Amazon or some other seller with a good returns policy, it's minimum risk. My mouse is hovering over the BUY button on Amazon... I just bought it! Arrives Friday! If you want to hold off until after the weekend, I'll report on it! EDIT: If you're considering the Hotone Ampero Control, HOLD OFF FOR NOW! I got mine today. It can only be edited using a mobile app via BT, and I can't for the life of me get it to connect to BT! My iPad sees my WAZA AIR HP, and every one of my other devices as well as all of my neighbor's devices, but after initially connecting, it won't reconnect. I've opened a support ticket, but got no confirmation and AFAICT, nobody else has ever gotten a reply from Hotone support (in CHINA!). There's little to no info on the web, so I'll wait a week before I return it to Amazon.

The attached .mid track was also created in Reaper, but I used a different method. Instead of manually placing the PC messages in the track, I recorded the changes as I played along to the backing track. All I recorded was preset changes, but the instructions below will allow you to record everything. Set Reaper to use your Helix as MIDI Input and Output devices. Set Helix Global Settings>MIDI>MIDI Over USB=ON, MIDI PC Send=USB, MIDI PC Receive=USB, Snapshot CC Send=ON. To record toggling of FX within presets you'll need to set the MIDI BYPASS of the FS assigned to those FX to a CC#, then in Command Center, set the FS to SEND that CC# as a toggling CC. Create an audio track by dragging your backing track into Reaper. Create a MIDI track to record MIDI from Helix. Set the Track RECORD MONITOR setting to AUTO. Route the Output of the MIDI track to Helix. Arm the MIDI Track and start recording. Play along and switch presets/Snapshots as required. After recording, disarm the MIDI Track and start PLAYBACK, playing along without manually switching presets. If all goes well, SELECT the MIDI Track, go to FILE>Export Project MIDI>Selected Tracks Only. Click OK and note where it's being saved to. You should be able to import that .mid track to your device and hopefully it should sync to your backing track. Hopefully I described all the steps correctly, it's late here in Colorado! Helix.mid

Just for kicks I DL'd NanoHost. I couldn't get it to load Native VST2. Nor would Reaper even see it, though the VST3 works fine. The only real reason to use the VST2 version is in your use case. I would contact support, though I suspect that would not result in a satisfactory resolution. Try the Free version of Cantabile if you just want a standalone HOST, but It's probably time to install a lightweight DAW like Reaper. Reaper has a FREE unlimited trial and only nags at startup. It's only $60 for a lifetime license.

During the install process you're given the option of installing VST2. It is NOT installed by default, you need to check the box, and if you don't already have a VstPlugins directory you need to create it: C:\ProgramFiles\VstPlugins

Returns are MONO. Set the INPUT BLOCK to a Stereo FX Return (1/2 or 3/4) and put a splitter on your TRS cable.

They're all in there but with different names. Why they haven't changed this page to reflect that is anybody's guess.

Read the Release Notes?

In order to use MIDI over USB, there MUST be a HOST device. Chocolate is NOT a HOST. As I've posted elsewhere, if you have an iPhone or iPad you can use the camera kit and AUM to route MIDI from any USB Controller to the Cat60. I have tested this using my FCB1010 with iConnectivity MIDI to USB cable. Works great. IDK about Androids, I don't allow them in my house.

It would be helpful to know what "external backingtrack Player device" you are using. This is easily done using most any DAW.

Catalyst is 4ohm. Being SS vs tube, it might not matter, but I would contact support at both L6 and MT before attempting this mod. https://musician.tools/boss-katana-mki-mkii-combo-amp-external-speaker-mod-v2 The KatCab V2 External Speaker Mod will allow your Katana combo amp to have an option to use the internal speaker and connect external speaker cabinet(s). KatCab V2 options: 1. Internal speaker 2. External speaker 3. Internal & External speaker 4. External & External speaker Will work with: • Katana 50 MKI, MKII, MKII EX & Gen3 • Katana 100 MKI, MKII & Gen3 • Katana 100 212 MKI, MKII & Gen3 It is wired in Series. Example, built-in speaker 8 Ohms, external speaker 8 Ohms, total 16 Ohms. Total Ohms for all connected speakers should be between 8 Ohms to 16 Ohms. Check manufacturer technical specs.

For use with IEMs/silent stage you can put the Attenuator switch on the 0watt setting. That cuts out the Cat's speaker so that the only output is the XLR. NOTE: I have seen many complaints that the XLR Out is too hot for some less than talented FOH "engineers" to deal with. Indeed, if your presets are optimized for max volume when using the Cat by itself, it is VERY HOT! To accommodate this situation I have one of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002J1JKY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1 Works great!