rd2rk

He also frequently reminds us that they don't publicly discuss the details of future updates. Reading between the lines, look at the price points of the products. Helix is still in the top three modelers for both quality of sound and features. Unless you NEED the advanced features of the Stadium products, the only reason to dump your Helix for a Stadium is that you have too much money in the bank. The only REALLY BIG DEAL feature in Stadium is the "PROXY" capturing/profiling (COMING SOON!). I own a ToneX and have tried NAM and, TBH, I'm underwhelmed. Not that they sound bad but faced with the choice of tweaking knobs until I get a sound I like (what we do with REAL WORLD amps) or auditioning 100,000 captures (another rabbit hole like the 100,000+ IRs I have purchased over the years), I'll keep tweaking, Thank You Very Much! Helix will continue to sell well to players who need a great sounding modeler and would rather spend our time PLAYING MUSIC. As to updates, I've owned mine for 10 years and never been disappointed in the updates. If they never added another feature I wouldn't complain, but I suspect that we'll be pleasantly surprised as they continue to improve/optimize the platform in order to continue their dominance at the Helix family's price point in the market. Interesting side note - Fractal just released a new product that looks VERY MUCH like the HX Stomp XL, at that price point. No capturing there either.

Go to TGP (The Gear Page)>Digital and Modeling Forum, find the Helix thread and search for posts by Digital Igloo (Eric Klein). He has stated repeatedly that there WILL be updates.

In that case your only options are: Open a support ticket. They'll probably tell you to ship it to them in California. I had the top knob (between VIEW/SAVE) on mine simply start doing crazy stuff. It was out of warranty, but I shipped it to them and they replaced the whole unit. They're good that way.

Make sure that you're on the latest FW (3.80). If not, update now. If that doesn't fix it - Perform a Factory Reset. If that doesn't fix it - Re-install the FW (FOLLOW ALL DIRECTIONS!). If that doesn't fix it - If you're in the US, call support. If not or are you unable to call, log on to Line 6, go to support and open a support ticket.

If I'm understanding what you're after, the attached example preset should get it. Use Snapshots with the MIX and OUTPUTS assigned as shown. Set the Levels on the MIX Block as necessary in SS3. kjiratsiekoedel.hlx

Contact support?

Automation is something I never use, but if REAPER can activate/deactivate an LED on an external controller, then it must be sending a signal of some sort. What signal is being sent? Finding out what message is being sent in the operations that work is the first step.

The latest version of HELIX is 3.80. The latest version of HELIX EDIT is 3.82 and is necessary to use with the latest version of HELIX. The latest version of HELIX NATIVE is 3.82. You don't even need to OWN a HELIX to use HELIX NATIVE. Nor is HELIX EDIT necessary to use HELIX NATIVE. IOW - HELIX NATIVE is a stand-alone product. That said, ALWAYS use the LATEST version of HELIX NATIVE (3.82) and the latest version of REAPER or whatever DAW you're using. When you install HELIX NATIVE it installs the necessary drivers and plugin files for use with the various DAWs. Thereby maximum compatibility between all of the assorted bits and bytes is as assured as such compatibility is ever possible to be assured...

Yes, I know, I'm saying I'm surprised since every other HX family device uses that CC to call the tuner. Certainly, an oversight IMO.

I did a little test today. Using the .5watt setting with the "Clarity" (clean) amp, all parameters at noon and Noise Gate OFF. I tested both my Affinity HSS Strat on the HB (not a high output pickup) and my PRS Acoustic. I'm getting over 10 seconds sustain on both guitars. If you, with the same settings, still aren't getting any sustain, I'd look at the Variax. The problem is certainly NOT the Catalyst.

Did you turn off the noise gate?

Hmmm...I could've sworn it used the same CC#68 as all of the other HX family devices. Learn something new everyday!

Make sure that the noise gate is off. You're playing an emulation of an acoustic guitar. How much sustain are you expecting? Unnaturally long sustain is a result of the compression achieved using hi-gain amps or pedals. That's not (normally) something you do for an acoustic sound. I don't use compressors, and they usually (IME) add dirt, but you might research which compressors are considered to be "clean".

Guitar>HXFX>Send 1>ToneX In>ToneX Stereo Out>Polyend Stereo In>Polyend Stereo Out>HXFX Return Stereo 1/2. This will work unless you want some HXFX between the TX and Poly. If this won't work for you, be SPECIFIC about your goals.

Time to open a support ticket.

Back up your presets in HX Edit, then perform a Factory Reset. If that doesn't work, re-install the FW using the Line6Updater and the latest version (3.80). FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS EXACTLY! Line 6 - Link to SW Downloads if you don't already have the Updater Reset Options #Helix Floor/LT Button Combination Description 2 LED light Fun 3 & 4 Test Mode 5 & 6 Global reset 7 & 8 Reset setlists to factory, Keep IRs 8 & 9 Reset setlists to factory, Clear IRs 9 & 10 Reset setlists to factory, Global reset, Clear IRs 10 & 11 Upgrades existing presets to latest format 11 & 12 Clear current preset 5 & 12 Clear setlists, clear IRs, Return system settings to default 6 & 12 Safe boot mode To use Reset Options: Power off the Helix Hold the desired button combination Power on the Helix Release the button combination Please note: Buttons are numbered from top left to bottom right.

Configuration/wiring is the same on HXFX as Helix.

If any of those pedals worked in the VH4 FX loop, and the Helix doesn't work configured as I first suggested: AND you've read the Helix and VH4 manuals, then yes, you should perform a Factory Reset and sell the Helix.

I STRONGLY SUGGEST THAT YOU READ THE DIEZEL VH4 MANUAL!!! Section 3.2 contains a VERY detailed explanation of the FX Loop functions! Up until now you've been flying paper airplanes. You're trying to move to an F-35! READ THE MANUAL! VH4&VH4S_Manual_05062024.pdf If I understand you correctly, you don't want any effects (such as modulations - phaser, flanger, trem/vib) BEFORE the DZ Preamp. All you want is some time-based effects between the pre and power amp. Sell the Helix, get a couple of TC Electronics Hall of Fame pedals (delay/reverb) and spend the difference on wine, women and song. If you'd prefer to continue to under-utilize your Helix (still better than the above TCE solution), take the SEND 1 from the DZ into the Helix Input (INSTRUMENT LEVEL) and the Helix Left Mono Out (INSTRUMENT LEVEL) to the DZ RETURN A SERIAL. Place your time-based FX blocks in the signal path between the Input and Output. I'm going to assume that you are playing HEAVY METAL music. Maximum GAIN. For the sake of clarity, if you are using both reverb and delay, place them in PARALLEL. When all of your delay repeats are drenched in reverb (as when the FX are in SERIAL) your sound turns to MUD. The simplest way to do this is to split the Helix signal path (RTM) and place the Reverb in PATH A and the Delay in Path B. You can then use the LEVEL and MIX controls in the individual FX blocks and the MIX Block (where the two paths merge back into one) to fine tune the FX to taste. Your wiring remains the same UNLESS you want to mix the un-effected DZ Preamp signal with the effected signal from the Helix. In that case you would use the RETURN A PARALLEL instead of the RETURN A SERIAL and control the MIX from the rear panel FX Loop Parallel VOLUME control. Did I mention that I STRONGLY SUGGEST THAT YOU READ THE DIEZEL VH4 MANUAL!!!? If, at some point, you decide to take full advantage of the capabilities of your Helix, read the Helix manual's section on "Four Cable Method" (4cm). Even METAL music uses things like WAH (Kirk Hammet?), flangers and phasers. Just sayin'.

Been a long time since I've allowed Cakewalk on my system, but from what I recall, I would: Change the DRIVER MODE to ASIO - not sure if related but better than WASAPI re latency. Keep in mind that ODD numbered channels go LEFT, EVEN numbered channels go RIGHT. IOW - USB Channel 1 is the Helix LEFT channel, 2 is RIGHT. OK, I was curious what's new in Bandlab Cakewalk land, the new SONAR version, so I installed the FREE version. Set DRIVER MODE to ASIO. Track Input to Helix 1+2 S. Set up a simple Helix Preset - Amp+Cab, Ping-Pong Delay, Stereo Room Rvb. As you can see below, it's recording in STEREO.

I'm not going to re-type my explanation/refutation of your nonsense assertions. If anybody believes this guy, tag me and I'll link to the LENGTHY discussion that he hopes nobody is skilled enough at SEARCH to find for themselves. The short version - there's a SWITCH. In one position it IS attenuated. In the other position it is NOT attenuated. It's an OPTION. The long version explains the reasoning.

Still trying to sell that BS? You realize that post is 10 months old? Getting desperate for a sale? Got a Katana on CL that won't move? Still rockin' my Catalyst. Still sounds great. Of course, I know how it works... I've explained it to you multiple times, you just don't want to hear it. No matter how many times you say it, you're still WRONG!

On the Helix HW there's a Global setting in PREFERENCES called SNAPSHOT EDITS with the options to RECALL (edits are temporarily SAVED until you switch presets) and DISCARD (edits are NOT saved). It appears that in NATIVE the default is DISCARD and I don't see any way to change it other than to uncheck SNAPSHOT BYPASS, but then changing the SNAPSHOT back to the unmodified version won't restore the block's SAVED state for that SS. Your best bet is to set block ON/OFF status PER SS.

1 - add a GAIN block at the end of the chain set to the amount of boost you want and toggle it ON in that SS. 2 - set the Output Block Level to Snapshot Control and add the desired boost amount in that Snapshot. Remember to set it to the default in the other Snapshots.

Need more info. What EXACTLY are you trying to do? How EXACTLY do you have Command Center configured? How EXACTLY are you wired? Are both devices set to the same MIDI Channel?