rd2rk

Using FX Loop L? Global Settings Ins/Outs>Send/Return L = Inst? SEND>1/4"TS cable>BSP IN>BSP Out>1/4"TS cable>Return L? OR (better) FX Send L (Dry Thru -120db); FX Return R Global Settings Ins/Outs>Send/Return L = Inst; Send/Return R = Line SEND>1/4"TS cable>BSP IN>BSP Out>1/4"TS cable>Return R?

He's asking for advice. The way I described gives him the choice of running the SEND/DRY (at INST Level) into the front of his amp or at Line Level using a Helix Amp/Preamp into his Amp's FX Return. The XLRs with his wet FX go to his L/R pedalboard Power amps and speakers. There're other ways to wire this, I just covered the first two that came to mind.

In Global Settings>Ins/Outs is Return Type set to RETURN?

Guitar>Helix Guitar In>anything you want before the Catalyst and WET paths>Send 1 to Catalyst (DRY) Dry Thru 100%> Stereo FX at mix = 100% (optional - mix % to taste)>1/4" or XLR Outs L/R. If you want stuff before the Cat but NOT on the wet paths, split Path A before the FX you want only in the Cat, add the SEND with DRY THRU at -120db, then at the MIX Block set Path A Level to -120db and Path B (your WET FX) to 0db. I'm not sure that setting Path A at the Mix Block to -120db is essential since the DRY THRU at the SEND is already -120db, but there's possibly a level thing due to PAN LAW (google it) considerations. Experiment!

I got busy and forgot to complete the survey. OOPS! I hope that they plan to update the existing line and fix the bugs. If they release a new line without doing so, they won't be seeing any of MY money!

That's not Snapshot Mode, that's Preset Mode. If you go to Global Settings>Footswitches you'll see that Preset Mode Switches are set to either Preset/Snap (top row Presets) or Snap/Preset (top row Snapshots). The Scribble Strip for FS6 will show PRESET Highlighted. When set to Auto Return, if you press both Bank switches all of the switches will change to Snapshots (you're in Snapshot Mode). The Scribble Strips will flash until you make a selection and FS6 will say CANCEL. Once a selection is made you'll be returned to Preset Mode and FS 6 will again say PRESET/Stomp. Set to Manual Return, everything is the same except after pressing both Bank switches the Scribble strips don't flash and you can switch between Snapshots until you're happy, then press CANCEL to return to Preset Mode. If your Helix behaves differently you may need to perform a factory reset.

The default output level of the emulated speaker is what L6 determined to be optimal for each speaker emulation to provide an even signal across the range of speaker emulations. There's no reason to mess with it. The Preset output (full gain-staged signal chain) is what you use to set the input level to the Powercab - the LED on the Powercab should be in the amber range. That will also control the Output level to the XLR. The Volume knob on the Powercab does not affect the XLR level, only your stage level. If you have the input level set correctly (amber LED) and your presets are levelled, the Volume knob on the PC dimed will blow your head off. At Powercab default settings the level to FOH from the XLR is UNITY - the level IN (the input level, amber LED, +-the emulated speaker level) is the level OUT, neither boosted nor cut. The level to the board (FOH) should be set to MIC, as that is what most FOH techs expect and is least likely to overload the channel input. Get the EQ set for your stage sound in your preset. Don't worry about FOH, it's not your job. If the FOH tech can't figure out how to EQ your sound for the room they're incompetent or their equipment sucks. TIP - If you're using IRs (vs speaker emulations) you can cut the HF Trim. That lowers the output of the HF Driver and does not affect the XLR signal. TBH, I think it was a mistake for L6 to put Hi/Lo cut and speaker/IR level controls in the PC, it just confuses people. Yes, those should only control the Powercab and should have no effect on the XLR signal, but it is what it is and, as the Powercab line appears to be abandonware, I wouldn't hold my breath waiting for a fix or waste my time complaining about it. They don't care. Anyhow, so you can prove all of this to yourself, I'll describe my setup and you can easily duplicate it with your gear. Helix>Digital Out (Big Knob dimed or set to control something other than whatever output you use - that equals UNITY Out. If your modeler is not Helix then RTM and find out how to get UNITY OUT from the Output you're using)>Powercab212>XLR>Focusrite Scarlett 18i20>Reaper DAW>JS Loudness meter - use whatever your DAW provides. With a Helix Preset hitting the amber level on the Powercab LED, using the Vintage Speaker emulation at its Powercab default Output level of -14db and XLR set to MIC. The LED Input Meter on the Scarlett (set to UNITY - input level knob all the way down) is showing 1 bar. The input meter in the Focusrite Control SW registers <>-14db. The Loudness meter in Reaper registers <>-14db. With the Powercab Volume knob on 1 (yes, ONE), my (industrial grade) db meter hung on the wall 12 feet away and off-axis registers OVER +80db. CONCLUSIONS - the emulated speaker out level=the XLR out level=the FOH channel input level (in this case the Scarlett)=the DAW Input level. There's no need to mess with the emulated speaker output level. If your FOH tech can't handle a -14db level fire his incompetent a$$ or get him better equipment. The PC speaker output level at ONE(1) on the Volume knob is frelling LOUD! Your Powercab should EASILY be able to reach its specified MAX SPL. That's 125db for the PC112 and 131db for the PC212. Louder than a dimed 100watt Marshall half stack! If that's not loud enough I hope you use ear plugs! FINAL NOTE - Don't tell me the above is wrong without performing the test as described and start by performing a Factory Reset on the Powercab because NO, you DON'T remember what the default settings were. Just DO IT! The toughest part is getting the PC Input level into the amber - the PC input has a LOT of headroom!

It's not a price increase, it's been on sale and the sale is over. $299 was the original release price. The Cat100 was also on sale. I bought mine at initial release at the release price of $399, and would do it again so, no, not re-thinking the value of my purchase.

That is correct. The workaround is to use Snapshots. You can let them have their own switches if you like and, for example, if you SAVE SS1 with both OFF (this might be your default SS on Preset Load), you can then save them in any combination in your other Snapshots and still use their switches within those Snapshots.

No. Is it possible that you're located on a Ley Line? I get why you might want to change from stereo to mono for use with a mono amp, but why did you set it to Left in your STEREO presets in the first place??? Are you making and saving these changes on the HW or in HX Edit? It shouldn't make any difference, but from time to time I've suspected that changes made and saved on the HW don't "take". I usually just chalk it up to a Case 18.

No. But you might be able to use MIDI and one of these: Control Switcher MIDI Amp Commander - Voodoo Lab

Are the VDL and Helix both plugged into the same wall outlet/power strip? Is Helix connected to your computer via USB? (unplug USB to see if that's the problem) Is Helix connected to ANYTHING that the regular pedalboard is not connected to? Also, as @MayPRSsuggested, check the cables too.

In Windows Sound Panel select the computer's sound card as the default playback device. In HXS Global Settings>Ins/Outs set the RETURN TYPE to Aux In. Take a stereo out from your computer to Returns L and R. In Reaper set the Input for your Streaming Track to 7/8. Set your Guitar Track to 1/2. Record Arm both tracks. Record.

The following assumes that you're using Helix as your ASIO Device in LIVE. Helix Global Settings>Ins/Outs> Re-amp Source 7 = Guitar Helix Processed Path Output = Multi LIVE Record Track 1 (Helix Processed Path) = USB 1/2 LIVE Record Track 2 (DI) = USB 7 Don't forget to activate the relevant I/O in LIVE Preferences. Monitor Switch = AUTO Record Arm both Tracks. Record. LIVE Track 2 (DI) Output = USB 3/4 Helix Re-amp Path Input = USB 3/4 Helix Re-amp Path Output = Multi or USB your preference LIVE Re-amp Record Track 3 Input = USB 1/2 or as above. Tracks 1 and 2 Monitor Switch = OFF, Record Arm = OFF Track 3 Monitor Switch = AUTO Record Arm Track 3. Record. Easiest solution - get Native. Put it on Track 3 and route the DI Track to Track 3.

What's a "609"? Google says Empire - Hanging Toilet Tissue Holder - 609 As I mentioned previously, you use the Channel Level to set the XLR Out level with the help of the meters in a DAW. You do this at the same time as you're levelling your presets. OR get the device I referenced if you insist on diming the Channel Level as some folks have suggested. Don't count on a "fix" in a future update for a non-existent problem. One way or another, setting the DI level has to be done on ANY device with that feature, and there's no easy cure for incompetent/inflexible FOH techs with budget systems.

I don't have one but have looked into it and read the manual. These are the problems as I see it: Can only send one message at a time Toggling CCs are restricted to 0/64 It'll work for the basic Cat functions. What is the "Behringer 2x12 plank"? If you mean the FCB1010, yes, it is huge. Ugly too. Hard to program? Depends on the installed chip. The stock chip is more powerful than the MIDI Commander and entirely sufficient (with the UNO_ControlCenter Editor) for use with the Cat. The UNO chip is better if you only need control of 5 or 6 CC/Bypass functions (requires UNO_ControlCenter to do it right) Both can be programmed with a GUI app, FREE for the stock chip, $25 for the UNO chip editor (UNO_ControlCenter). The UNO2 chip will do most anything you need it to do but requires basic programming skills (no GUI app) and comes with an excellent Code Editor and user manual. That said, it's total overkill for the Cat. FWIW I use a combination of the LFS2 (works fine for me) and my Helix using Command Center.

Attach the preset so we can troubleshoot it.

OD pedals before the Input. Putting them in the Loop tends to accentuate the small amount of noise in the loop. Also, some OD pedals have input impedance <1M, which loads your pickups differently and is part of the intended sound of the pedal. If you do decide to put them in a loop, find out what the input impedance is and use the Input Impedance setting on the Input Block to get as close as you can. Tie the Input Impedance setting to the Loop's Bypass switch by assigning it to the Bypass FS or Snapshots, depending upon how you're bypassing it. If you're going wireless it doesn't matter since your pickups will always be loaded at 1M unless your wireless has custom settings (most don't). Time based FX can go in a loop after the amp (or before if you're after a more old-school effect) or after the Outs, whatever sounds best to you.

Adaptors. 1/4" TRS>whatever it takes + whatever settings on the HXFX. I'm sure he'll explain it when he gets back to you...

The HXFX has two Ext Amp/Exp Pedal jacks. The LT has only one. With the PT15, it being his signature amp, he probably knows a trick to make it work, probably requiring using both jacks on his HXFX. As for the Bad Cat, knowing the model might be helpful, but I suspect it will be a similar solution. PT frequents the D&M forum on TGP, you might try asking over there. No, I don't know his handle, but you can try searching.

In a few years, most Pop music will be pure AI. Most Pop music fans won't be able to tell the difference. The only question is... will they care?

No. It's just different. Funny thing, over on TGP several people have mentioned just how BAD they think the Black Angus is. Different strokes...

That's because you can't. The Pilot's guide contains a list of the parameters that can be controlled via MIDI. That's all you get!

I have found that when using separate amps for clean/hi-gain, placing them both on the same path and bypassing one or the other sometimes causes a loud POP depending on the gain difference. I prefer to use the A/B split method. There's two ways to go about it depending on your needs. Snapshot - Assign the "Route To" parameter of the Split A/B Block to Snapshots. In SS1 set the "Route To parameter" of the Split A/B Block to 100% A. Save the SS. In SS2 set the "Route To" parameter of the Split A/B Block to 100% B. Save the SS. Footswitch - Assign the "Route To" parameter of the Split A/B Block to the FS you want to use. In the "Bypass/Controller Assign" screen select the FS you assigned. "MIN Route To" should automatically be set to A and "MAX Route To" to B. The amps always remain ON so there's no POP when you switch routes. This method also makes it easier to add EQ or other FX to one amp and not the other. EDIT: The third method is to assign the "Route To" parameter to an expression pedal. This allows you to blend/morph the two amps. I prefer to use the expression pedals for other purposes, but if you have a third pedal this is a viable option.

I've now tried this every which way I can imagine. I'm guessing that my understanding of how this works was incorrect. Bottom line, it SHOULD work as you designed it. There's a built-in rule that you can't assign two controllers to a single function. For instance, you can't assign the GAIN parameter to both Snapshots AND a FS. This rule does not normally apply to CommandCenter messages, but it's possible that it only works with MIDI messages. It could be there's a hole in the code because nobody anticipated your use case. You should open a support ticket and attach your preset so THEY can troubleshoot it. Good Luck!