rd2rk

Based upon what you say you've tried I would suggest opening a support ticket.

Yes. Not necessarily, unless you need to edit deep parameters like amp BIAS, Delay Time, Reverb Predelay etc Yes. Note the FX Loop Block. With a 1/4" TRS Cable connected between the Ext Amp Jack and the Catalyst FS Input: The "Tip" controls Channel Switching, so the "A/B" FS is set to Ext Amp>TIP The "Ring" controls Boost/FX, so the "Boost or FX" FS is set to Ext Amp>RING The Ext Amp Out/Catalyst FS Input are analog - a physical circuit within the Catalyst is toggled OPEN/CLOSED.

If you are wired like this: Guitar>DD>Amp Input>? Then you are NOT wired in 4cm. 4cm: Guitar>DD>HXFX Input>HXFX Send1>Amp Input>Amp Send>HXFX Return1>HXFX Out>Amp Return

You're asking a question that, since no one from L6 hangs out here, only someone with the identical devices can answer. Most users would just either pick up a used FBV3 (as @gtrrman100 above) or a proper general purpose MIDI pedal and be done with it.

I highly doubt it. There are MANY MIDI controllers on the market that MORE than get the job done. The major attraction of MIDI is adaptability/programmability. To create a MIDI pedal for a specific purpose would be as expensive as any other multi-purpose MIDI pedal, as the costs are in the HW/production/distribution. There's virtually zero development cost in the functionality, it's simply converting a Swiss Army Knife into a nail clipper - in SW. What's worse is that if your Catalyst died, the purpose designed MIDI FS would be useless. Kind of like those hugely expensive Peavey Vyper pedalboards that are nothing more than fancy doorstops without the Vyper amp! If you're thinking that MIDI is complicated, I assure you that if you're capable of operating a home entertainment system remote you are MORE than capable of learning and programming the minimal MIDI required to control your Catalyst. Every major player in the MIDI pedal industry provides a computer based visual GUI/programming tool.

You can't use the S/R Blocks with USB. In GR, set Helix as the AI. Set GR's Inputs as 3/4 or 5/6 and the Outputs as 1/2. On Helix split Path 1 with an A/B Split. Set Path 1A to 2A and 1B to USB 3/4 or 5/6. Place the Split Block either at the beginning of Path 1 or after whatever Helix FX you want to have before GR. Assign the A/B Split to either a FS or Snapshot. First scenario (above): When the signal is routed to Path A you're full Helix. When routed to Path B you're full GR (depending where you put the Split in Path 1). Second scenario: You can route GR back into the signal path for using Helix FX POST GR by routing Path 1 as above. Then split Path B completely, setting GR's Outputs to 3/4 or 5/6 (instead of 1/2), and setting the Path 2B Input to 3/4 or 5/6 to match the Output settings in GR. In the first scenario the GR Output enters Helix at the Output Block, bypassing Helix FX in Path 2. In the second scenario the GR signal enters at the Path 2B Input Block for further Helix FX processing. Demo Preset (second scenario) attached. DaJuice007.hlx

It's been requested. Go there, search and vote for all of the requests for it.

Make sure that you're attaching a preset with the .hlx extension, .php doesn't get it!

Confirmed in Reaper and LIVE11. Reaper simply crashes out. LIVE11 crashes the AI too! Further notes - Factory Bass presets work fine Specifically affects Bass models in NEW Presets (or editing Factory Presets) Bass+Cab or Bass Amp and separate Cab both crash Bass+Legacy or Bass Amp and separate Legacy Cab work fine, BUT... If you then attempt to switch the Legacy Cab to a new model Cab, it allows the change without crash, but the Native Output Meter instantly spikes with NO signal reaching the Reaper track. All of these anomalous behaviors ONLY occur with the NEW Bass Cabs. Legacy and Guitar (new or legacy) Cabs do not cause a problem. OP - Congratulations, you've found a bug! Open a support ticket so that L6 can confirm and pass it up to the bug killers!

That is truly bizarre! Attach a sample preset where this occurs.

Also, check the blocks themselves and make sure that "Snapshot Bypass" is checked.

The attached Preset does it all, via Snapshots. The first 6 Snapshots select the six A channels. You COULD try using the amp switching features to toggle the A/B channels and the Cat's FX or Boost. I found it unacceptably noisy and opted for the LFS2 footswitch. It also wastes 2 of the Helix footswitches that I'd rather use for Helix FX. If you MUST use the Helix footswitches for EVERYTHING, and you don't mind the excessive switching noise, set 2 switches to Ext Amp, LATCHING, one set to TIP and one to RING. TIP controls A/B, Ring is Boost or FX depending on how the Cat is set. I set up the preset to use the first two switches for that. NOTE that the LED is LIT for Channel A, OFF for Channel B. Likewise, the BOOST LED is ON when the Boost is OFF and OFF when it's ON. VERY annoying, another reason I prefer the LFS2. Snapshot 7 is empty. In my usage that's where the ToneX pedal goes. You COULD use it for a second Helix amp. Snapshot 8 bypasses the FX Loop and activates a Helix amp. IOW - your Cat's Preamp is out of the signal chain, replaced with a Helix amp. Be aware that unless you physically flip the Fx Loop switch on the amp the Helix amp could be VERY LOUD. Turn down it's (the Helix amp's) Channel Volume to compensate. FWIW - JS's method for using the FX Loops is useful if you're using an amp whose FX loop is noisy. The Catalyst FX Loop is NOT noisy. Using two FX Loops like that also wastes your second FX Loop, the LT only has two. Using a single FX Loop works fine. The preset uses FX Loop 1. The FS labeled "Lead Boost" adds a 5db Clean Boost at the Output Block. Since it's at the end of the signal chain it does not affect tone, just makes it all LOUDER. Almost forgot - I have the Catalyst set to use MIDI Channel 3. You COULD change every MIDI command in the preset, but I advise that you just set the Catalyst to MIDI Channel 3. I have found that sometimes I'll fire everything up and the Catalyst won't respond to MIDI. If that happens, MANUALLY (with the Preset KNOB on the Helix) switch presets, pause a moment, then switch back. That usually fixes it. If you study what's happening with the Snapshots you'll see that it's pretty simple. The Instant Commands send PC# 1, 3, 5, 7, 9 and 11 to call the A Channel of each Catalyst Bank. The second IC makes sure that the FX Loop is active. The reason that L6 hasn't devoted a bunch of resources to a document that attempts to explain how all of their devices can be used together is that everybody wants something special for THEIR needs. It's a fool's errand. There're other ways to do everyting I've described, but you wanted simple, and I'm not an L6 employee with infinite paid hours to describe every possible scenario and the pros/cons of each. If you read the manuals for your devices, google "Basic MIDI" and spend some time with it (ask specific questions here if you need to, as you have) it will become apparent how it all works. Just don't expect an "Idiot's Guide to every possible use of Helix with W and X and Y and Z and...". Helix allows for near infinite possibilities, and that comes with lots of complexities. steve_marsden1.hlx

For those who've drunk the ToneX Kool-aid :-), I've created a setlist just for us! This setlist allows access to all 150 presets on the pedal, allowing you to have a custom pedalboard for the first 128 presets. In the first 22 presets (0-21), Snapshot 2 loads the presets in the second Pedal bank. The pedalboard will be the same on both banks for these presets, so something to think about when you're loading the Pedal. The pedalboards are just my generic board and they're all the same. I won't start customizing them until I've settled on the final configuration for my Pedal, an ongoing project that I've only just started when I got the Pedal. I've attached the setlist. Feel free to use it as a template and let me know if you find any errors. Have FUN! ToneX has some GREAT captures! EDIT: in order for it to work you'll need to have Global Settings>MIDI/Tempo>MIDI PC Send = MIDI or MIDI+USB. ToneX Pedal Stls.hls

If you followed all of the directions above, it should be working. If you did not follow all of the instructions, do it again and follow the instructions I gave. Any piece of HW can be a lemon, especially if bought used (you didn't specify). I have had a Helix for 7 years and an HX Stomp for 3 years, and have only had one problem (a bad SPDIF board) that was fixed quickly and for free. Your symptoms sound like operator error. If, after following my instructions, you still have a problem, come on back. There's a post/thread somewhere that gives "In case of astral mis-alignment ;-)" instructions.

Because it's great stuff! First - Perform a Factory Reset: If it still doesn't work open a support ticket. Next - Go to the L6 website>Downloads>HX Effects>HX Edit>Your OS Download and install HX Edit v3.52. When you open HX Edit it will prompt you to update the FW. IMPORTANT!!! FOLLOW ALL OF THE INSTRUCTIONS TO A T!!! If the update fails you probably did something wrong. Assuming that you did everything right and proper astral alignments, you should be good to go!

Yes. Use an INSERT cable (1/4" TRS to dual mono TS). Take the TIP to the Compressor INPUT, take the output from the Compressor back to Return L (FX loop L Block), then use the RING (Send R Block) to your amp's RETURN. This method takes your stage amp's preamp section out of the signal chain but allows you to route as you described within the block/dsp limits of the HXS. The stereo fx are summed to mono at the Send R Block, and the Dry Thru is OFF so that only the stereo signal with the Cab applied goes out the Main L/R Outputs to FOH. See attached demo preset. If your amp does not have an fx loop, your problem is that the HXS amp would be going into your stage amp's input, not ideal. The workaround would be to have identical FX on both paths with the addition of the HXS amp and cab on the FOH path, which would take too many blocks and too much dsp. If you want full use of your stage amp's preamp section (assuming that it has an fx loop) you'd need multiple FX Loops and separate outputs for your amp and FOH. IOW, you'd need a full-fat Helix. KirkPowers.hlx

If you like the way that the PC's speaker emulations sound, keep using them. At the same time, do experiment with the new cabs, they sound great. It may sound cliche, but "If it sounds good, it is good" is the only rule, and you won't know until you try. Here's a tip - try the new cabs in both FRFR and LF Flat (no tweeter) modes. Also, if you're using stereo FX, widen the stereo spread on the PC to 125-150% and try different mics in the dual cab block. 57/121 is a popular place to start, with the 121 pulled back to 3-5 inches and its level boosted slightly. Pan the speakers L/R (not necessarily hard-panned) and use the output block meter to see the relative levels.

Did you update HX Edit to v3.52? Click the ? at the lower left, then ABOUT. At the top it should say HX Stomp 3.50, toward the bottom it should say HX Edit 3.52.

That is correct. There's no point having dual cabs if you're going to set them both the same, and this allows you to set different mics, distances, delay etc.

"You" doesn't hang out here. If you want L6 to hear your plea, you need to open a support ticket. Sucks, but it is what it is.

Yes. It's called SNAPSHOTS. You can use a single switch, in pedalboard (STOMP) mode, to select any of three snapshots. Attached is a demo preset to show you how. FS1 (I created this on an HXS) works like this: In SS1 (Normal) - PRESS to go to SS2 (Thick); HOLD to go to SS3 (Thicker) In SS2 (Thick) - PRESS to go to SS3 (Thicker); HOLD to go to SS1 (Normal) In SS3 (Thicker) - PRESS to go to SS2 (Thick); HOLD to go to SS1 (Normal) EZ PZ! One switch, in STOMP Mode. AaronKerr.hlx

If you're simply running mono fx, both sides would be equal, "Dual Mono".

Create a separate track for MIDI. Set the INPUT to MIDI>Line6 Helix>All Channels. In the Routing section for the MIDI track set a "MIDI Hardware Output" to Line6 Helix>Send to Original Channels. In Helix Global Settings>MIDI/Tempo set: MIDI Thru = OFF (during recording, to prevent a MIDI Loop) MIDI Over USB = ON MIDI PC Receive = ON MIDI PC Send = ON Snapshot CC Send = ON To test just arm the MIDI track, start RECORD and hit some switches. At the bottom of the MIDI track you'll see the MIDI events appear as they happen. Stop, SAVE, Playback - Helix should change as recorded. To record a performance, just repeat the steps as above. You can also add MIDI events manually: On a new MIDI Track, Select the MIDI Track Click INSERT, Insert New MIDI Item Drag the new MIDI Item to the beginning of the Track and drag the end to set the length (or right-click, select Item Properties and fill out the dialog). Right click the new MIDI Item Select "Open in Built-in MIDI Editor" Select the third Icon from the left Double-click the first line and fill in the dialog as required. If you're editing a pre-recorded track, just skip the part about creating a new MIDI item. Double-click the point where you want to edit or insert a new event and fill out the dialog as required. Don't forget to SAVE early and often!

I've bolded the problem above. Some people make it work - it is an economical solution. You should probably look for a forum or FB group for GB users. The problem is NOT Helix.

When controlling the PC212+ from presets over L6 Link it's randomly undependable. The randomness is likely the reason that support has trouble duplicating the issue.