rd2rk

Post your idea here: https://line6.ideascale.com/c/

If all that you're using the Snapshot for is to add a decibel boost for leads, that seems an awful waste of a Snapshot. Instead, in Stomp Mode assign a FS to the Output Block Level, with MIN/MAX set to 0db/4db for a 4db boost. Although you can't toggle Snapshots with a single switch in Snapshot Mode, if you set a FS in Stomp Mode to call a Snapshot you can set it to call one Snapshot on PRESS and the original on HOLD or one on press and return to the original on RELEASE. The tempo can be set GLOBALLY or PER PRESET. I set a Tremolo at 1/4, and at 60bpm the pulse was half that at 120bpm, so I'm not sure what you're saying. If you attach a sample preset and state your tempo settings I'll see if I can duplicate your issue.

If I were a witch's hat Sitting on her head like a paraffin stove, I'd fly away and be a producer Off to Nashville I would go!

You're using very old kit. You might want to contact support to see if there's any known issues.

Not sure if you mean this as a criticism of the Mfrs or a suggestion to OP, but since OP likely can't change the cable itself, maybe a bit of shrink wrap under the bead if damage is a concern?

Do you mean the Windows Device Manager? Uninstall all of the Helix Drivers (Apps and Features in Settings), then reinstall HX Edit. Or is this in your DAW? The above solution might fix that too. When asking these kinds of questions, you should provide details - computer type, OS version, DAW brand/version, etc.

Every external PS since the beginning of time has had this problem. Solder the wires together and buy a package of Ferrite Rings. Amazon.com : ferrite rings

The FX Loop Block has SEND and RETURN Level parameters. Use them. OR you can use separate S/R Blocks set as required. A waste of Blocks and your second loop, but if method 1 above is too difficult for you, there ya go!

I agree that Helix is capable of getting ALMOST any tone that you can find in ToneX. As is Amplitube. Keep in mind that regardless of anyone's years of experience, we all have different ears and different sensitivities when it comes to guitar tone and "feel". That said - My main purpose when I bought ToneX was to be able to: a) compare "profile/capture" tech to my Helix's capabilities, and b) try amps I'll never own and that aren't modeled in Helix - specifically the fabled Dumble My conclusions are that: a) my Helix is more than sufficient to my needs, and b) assuming the accuracy of the Dumble tone models I've tried, I have no clue as to why anyone would spend more than $399 on a Dumble, from a shop with a good returns policy c) the world of "profiles/captures" is as much a rabbit hole as the world of IRs - I'm SOOO happy that L6 introduced the new cabs - in the words of the inimitable Tony the Tiger, they're GREAT! Bottom Line - purpose (b) above remains, but my Helix ain't goin' nowhere!

The devil is in the details. All amplifier FX Loops are NOT the same. Is your mystery amp's FX Loop Instrument or Line level? Is there a switch on the back of the amp that allows you to choose? Have you tried using BOTH Inst and Line as settings for the HXS I/O ports? How, EXACTLY, are you connecting the HXS to your amp? Input/Output? Send/Return? Single FX Loop Block or separate blocks? Some other combination?

AFAICT, when they refer to an "Expression Pedal" they mean a MIDI Expression pedal. For instance, on either my Helix or FCB1010, if I assign the expression pedal to CC#4, I can control whatever Catalyst parameter is assigned to Expression Pedal. CC#7 always controls Output Volume (MIDI Standard), so that you don't need to assign CC#4 to that parameter, and can use two expression pedals, such as Exp1 or Exp2 on Helix or Pedal A or B on the FCB, one for EXPRESSSION and the other for VOLUME. To use a normal expression pedal with your Cat you'd need a special converter box that turns the expression pedal signals into MIDI. Yes. When using the Cat without anything in the FX Loop you turn the FX Loop OFF. You could also jumper the SEND/RETURN, but there's no advantage to doing that except as a test of the Loop's functionality. The MODE Switch on the back of the amp determines where in the signal flow the signal from the RETURN enters. When using a MultiFX (nothing plugged into the Cat's INPUT), setting the switch to AMP IN sends the signal directly to the Cat's Power Amp, post Cat FX. In this position it also applies a 6db pad to allow for possibly hotter signals from the MultiFX.

Pretty close to what I do, but I'm using a Helix. I set 6 Snapshots to load the Banks 1-6 Channel A which is always a "Rhythm" preset, then use the A/B switch for Leads on Channel B. So, I'm essentially using the Cat as six "traditional" two channel amps. I have two similar presets, one setup for Helix without the LFS2, the other uses both, which allows for more Helix switches to be assigned to FX. I also have a set of six Presets wherein I use the Snapshots to swap out different Catalyst FX than the ones the Cat's presets are configured with. For instance, the preset might have a Delay, but since I never use a Delay and a Mod together, I can hit a switch and temporarily swap in a Phaser or Flanger instead. The Cat truly is an amazingly well thought out device! If L6 were to enable MIDI control of the FX parameters we'd have nearly Helix level Snapshot control without needing a Helix, just MIDI! If I wanted to use the FCB1010/UNO2 (like for a place where I didn't want to risk the Helix) I could program it to do the INC/DEC thing but thankfully that hasn't been an issue for some time.

Since the Cat doesn't actually have BANKs per the MIDI spec, I'm interested in how this works in terms of the actual MIDI sent. I ASSume that increment/decrement would apply some logic such as "current +/- X", X being the number of units to increment/decrement. A normal MIDI BANK Change includes the BANK # and Program # within the BANK. Using simple Program #s (since there's no BANK #s), if you're in BANK 1 Channel A (PC#1) and send CURRENT + 2 you're now in BANK 2 Channel A (PC#3). IOW - to increment/decrement the controller needs to first know what the current PC# is, then you have to send CURRENT PC# +/- 2, and you always end up in the same Channel unless there's some additional logic such as "If PC# = ODD THEN ?, ELSE ??"? Unless there's something I'm missing about how the inc/dec function works in the FBV3? I'm only on my first cup of coffee... :-) How exactly (in terms of MIDI sent and end result) does that work?

Very Zen use of white space :-) Using both devices vs a single Helix LT or Floor saves you very little floor space, especially if you add an expression pedal (wah/volume). It increases wiring complexity and thus the number of potential failure points. It increases setup/teardown time. It adds latency to the system. It does not, in any way, increase the amount of DSP or # of FX available. Unless there's something about your application/rig that you didn't mention in your post, you're much better off sticking to a single Helix LT/Floor.

No such problems with Scarlett (2nd gen) and Reaper. I just set the Reaper Track Input Level as described above using the Cat's Channel Volume. IDK about Audacity, but this method works perfectly with Reaper, Cakewalk and LIVE. If you're using the Cat as an amp for Helix or HXS, you need to use the Channel Volume in the Helix/HXS preset. THAT SAID - IDK what they were thinking having the XLR Out stuck on LINE level. I very much hope that if they ever do an update they'll change that to MIC level. No one wants to spend more money to fix this oversight, but here's what I did: AmazonSmile: Shure A15AS Switchable Attenuator (15, 20, 25 dB), Passes Phantom Power : Industrial & Scientific Three levels of attenuation at the flip of a switch. Problem solved!

There is no BANK UP/DOWN function. Each of the 12 presets has an assigned PC (Program Change) number. PC#1 = Bank 1 Channel A PC#2 = Bank 1 Channel B ... PC#11 = Bank 6 Channel A PC#12 = Bank 6 Channel B All MIDI controllers are not the same. Which "cheap" MIDI controller did you buy? If your MIDI controller is capable of multiple actions - Press/Press Hold Short/Press Hold Long - then you MIGHT be able to figure something out, but odds are you bought the wrong controller for your needs.

We can only hope that the MI in general will implement v2 faster than v1. They need to keep the musically/technologically ignorant CFO's out of the design process... RIGHT! That'll happen... when pigs fly!

If you have a Helix or HXStomp it's on the last page of the MIDI section. It DOES NOT disable Instant CC commands assigned to Snapshots in CommandCenter. It prevents the DEFAULT Snapshot Commands being sent when you switch Snapshots. IOW - it does the same thing as MIDI PC Send/Tx. Commands specifically assigned in CommandCenter will still be sent.

Unfortunately, no. MIDI communication between devices/SW in its present form is one-way only. MIDI Standard v2 allows for two-way communication, but even when the standard is finalized, it will be TWO-WAY - both the sending and receiving devices/SW will have to have it implemented. IOW - don't hold your breath.

Neither needed nor possible. Tubes, by their very nature, color the sound and change over time, so, NOT FRFR, even if FRFR were a real thing. It's NOT, in any absolute sense. Look to the published (if they dare to publish) response curves of several "FRFR" speakers for proof. As to "FEEL", that is TOTALLY subjective. Most high-end modelers and profilers have "deep" settings intended to affect those parameters related to "FEEL". Only YOU can judge their effectiveness. If you'd like an in depth look at the futility of your quest, go to the Digital and Modeling Forum on The Gear Page. Thousands of years of experience there. My advice - Ignore claims of "FRFR". Don't focus on replicating the "FEEL" of your tube amp. It's a rabbit hole. Try several different "made for modelers" powered speakers. Buy the one that sounds and "FEELS" best TO YOU. Play yer guitar. Good Luck! FWIW - I'm currently using my Helix with a Catalyst 100 for grab'n'go, and a Powercab 212+ in RAW speaker mode (no tweeter) or "FRFR" mode for use with IRs. I RARELY use the Speaker Emulation mode, as it doesn't sound all that good. Full disclosure - I've never suffered an addiction to tubes.

Yes, the "manual" leaves out a lot, especially as relates to intended use. Welcome to the wonderful world of digital devices! FWIW - I'm 72, but I've been around this stuff for a while. Do feel free to ask questions, lots of helpful people here!

Re-read my reply. OF COURSE you can use an effect for more than 10 seconds! BUT if it takes you longer than 10 seconds to figure out which of those 6 FX you want, then you turn the selector dial, then YES! The AMP will change because this is NOT the way to AUDITION FX! Here's how the device works: LIVE ACTION - use the buttons to switch quickly between FX. 10 seconds doesn't matter because you know what you want to do. In under 10 seconds you can change the FX Category, change the effect, finalize the change and even SAVE the preset (if that's what you want to do). Ready to play the next song in the set! This works because you KNOW what you want to do (AND you know what you're doing). The changes you make to a preset will persist between Channel (A/B) changes and, unless you SPECIFICALLY SAVE the preset, will revert back to the SAVED STATE when you switch BANKS. FX AUDITION/PRESET CREATION - use the app. Take all the time you want to figure out EXACTLY what you want. You use this method when you DON'T know EXACTLY what you want to do. BEST PRACTICE - mount your iPad on your amp and keep the app running. Do whatever you want whenever you want. BETTER BEST PRACTICE - are you aware that you can instantly reconfigure whatever preset happens to be loaded with a single press of a button? You do this with a MIDI controller. That also effectively gives you a nearly infinite # of presets without ever actually changing presets. If L6 chooses to implement MIDI CCs for individual FX parameters (already implemented for the main amp controls/tonestack) you'd have power to rival that of the CommandCenter in Helix! Summary - you purchased a VERY powerful device with near infinite control and expansion possibilities. Of course, if learning how to use it to full advantage is too annoying, you should definitely sell it. Are you in Colorado? How much you want for it?

By "tone" I ASSume that you mean the amp model (Clean, Boutique, etc), which is the default selector function. I can't make it do what you describe. However, the "effect select mode" has a 10 second default. If you're auditioning the effect and you go more than 10 seconds the selector dial will revert back to the "amp select mode". There's no way to change that behavior, which is a PITA. You just need to remember that 10 second rule and press/hold the effect button again to get back to the effect select mode. If this is NOT the problem, back up your presets (requires the app), then perform a factory reset. See page 10 of the Pilot's guide for directions. FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS! Hint: I think that the manual (pushing the buttons) FX select process is intended for quick, on-the-fly changes where you know what effect you're on and which one you want. It is NOT intended for lengthy auditioning of the FX. Use the app for that. There's no 10 second rule and you can play with the specific parameters of the effect.

1) All newbies think that the recording level is too low. Read this: What is the Ideal Level to Record Tracks into a DAW? (sweetwater.com) 2) When recording as you describe, use USB 1/2. That will record the same signal that you hear in the HP or on the Main Outs. Be certain that the Track Monitor Switch (or whatever they call it in Logic) is OFF to prevent hearing the delayed signal from the track. The recorded level may SEEM low, but that is to allow headroom for mixing/post processing. USB 5/6 will always be the dry, unprocessed signal. This is used to get a DRY track for re-amping, and the recorded level will seem VERY low. That is intentional to allow for re-amping and further mixing/post processing. USB 7/8 are the unprocessed signal from the L/R RETURNS. You can use these for a separate input from a synth, eDrum or mp3 player to record it on a separate track. From the manual (it's worth reading): Computer Input Source USB 1 and 2 Output of HX Stomp’s Path A (with all Path A processing) USB 3 and 4 Output of HX Stomp’s Path B (with all Path B processing) USB 5 and 6 HX Stomp’s Main L/MONO and RIGHT inputs (dry, no processing) USB 7 and 8 HX Stomp’s Return/Aux L/MONO and RIGHT inputs (dry, no processing)

ASSuming that the Android app is basically identical to the iOS app: See the GUITAR icons in the upper left corner? Click there and select what you want to do from the drop-down list.