HonestOpinion

That is one clever video reference to the elimination of the filibuster! ;)

That is one impressive piece of work! Nice!

Heh, the metaphors on here are starting to approach Dennis Miller levels (don't agree with most of what he says but he has a way with analogies, metaphors & similes) . Agreed, when will the filibustering on this issue stop and the self-evident problem with the tuner be resolved? We don't need no stinking 60% majority on the forum. That is likely to make us as dysfunctional as congress. :P Note: In no way am I advocating dispensing with the filibuster. Just in this particular case. Damn, getting perilously close to violating my personal rule of never engaging in politics or religion on the forum. ;)

Interesting! Of course the FS 9&10 reset is mandatory after a firmware update but I never do the FS 10-11 combination. Are you now able to copy a preset from one location to another and not see a rebuild message upon restart?

You can also give the scribble strip a custom name that is more informative than "multiple(2)" as well as change the LED ring color. Using snapshots to assign multiple blocks to a switch is an option as well.

Great post! I love when users post fixes or procedures directly from Line6 support. It saves lots of users a call to support and helps prevent churn and guesswork on the forum.

How are you importing your IRs? You may want to go to the IR tab in the Editor and try an alternate method of importing (drag & drop, use the 'Import' link). Some users who had problems importing IRs have reported success by first dragging them to the deskop and then dragging them into the Editor. The first thing I would do is make sure that my firmware and my Editor version were matched properly.

Great metaphor! I will be using that one. There is an easy way to put this horse down though. Fix it already. I don't understand why this problem has been allowed to malinger for so long. I am as tired of seeing it mentioned as most everyone else here.

LOL. You won't have to run far as you have plenty of fellow users to hide behind who agree with you. The OP's and my opinion appears to be in the minority which never ceases to surprise me as this seems like such a blatant issue to me. B)

I use an L2m as a stage monitor and have it placed on the floor in "Floor Monitor" mode although I have run it in "Reference/P.A." mode as well. It may sound better in some cases on a pole but I just find it more convenient to place on the floor. One important consideration if you are using the Bose L1 Model II speakers is that they tend to be set up behind you. That means you need to be aware of possible phase cancellation if you place your L2m facing you like a vocal monitor. You may want to use the L2m behind you or to the side to minimize cancellation. Like Rewolf48 I prefer connecting the Helix to both the L2m and the FOH speakers so I can control them individually if need be. When I first started using the L2m I would connect digitally via the L6 Link to the L2m and then connect the L2m's XLR output to the FOH. My rationale was that I wanted to keep a digital path for as long as possible. I don't do this any more though. I now connect to the L2m via the Helix's 1/4 output and use the Helix's XLR out to the FOH. That is because the global EQ does not apply to the L6 Link digital output and I want to hear the global EQ in both my stage monitor and the FOH. I find the sound out through the 1/4 so good that whatever accuracy I may be missing by not using the digital out is more than made up for by the fact that the sound I am getting through my stage monitor is closer to what is being heard at the FOH as I am using analog outs to both and when I need to kick in the global EQ I can hear what it is doing through my stage monitor.

I fully agree with you the tuner is too jumpy. I could swear it seems a bit better since the 2.20 update but that might just be the placebo effect since I saw nothing in the firmware notes to indicate the tuner had been stabilized. I thought it had been improved once before after the last update until I did a gig and realized it was still too jumpy to tune quickly and accurately between songs. This may be what is called the horns of a false dilemma. Stabilizing the tuner and new amps and FX are probably not mutually exclusive. If they are, I would prefer a pause to get a tuner that is stable enough to tune quickly versus another amp or effect. I am still enthusiastic about more amps and FX but there are enough already to keep me busy whereas fast and accurate tuning is an absolute necessity for a performance. I would hope improving the tuner would not require that much development time. I may be in the minority here but the tuner is the higher priority for me. A stable tuner is important to a pro or prosumer level device even if it is not at the top of everyone's wishlist. Not looking for the perfect tuner here, just something that is stable enough to tune faster.

Make sure you not only "delete" but actually uninstall the current Helix software from your Mac. Then download and reinstall the 2.20 version of the "Helix" app which includes the Editor. I have included the link below for the Mac OS X version of the software. You can download this and compare sizes to the file you were using as a sanity check. http://line6.com/software/readeula.html?rid=7400

That's right, I forgot. Prior to the Surface 3 they ran RT although I have read there is a jailbreak/hack for the earlier Surface versions that can allow x86 apps that aren't in the Windows Store to run by essentially acting like an x86 emulator. Not a great alternative though. So back to the question, who makes an inexpensive tablet with either a Type A or micro USB jack that works with the Editor?

Thanks for the heads up. That sounds like something Line6 should be able to address. What, you don't like requiring a telescope coupled to an electron microscope just to read the text in the Editor? Entitlement, sheesh... ;)

You could be right but something feels inherently "off" to me that there should be a rebuild process upon restart every time a preset is copied. At the very least it seems inefficient. If a rebuild is required, is there any downside to editing that preset before it is rebuilt? It seems like allowing a preset to be edited that still requires a rebuild is a great recipe for a corrupt preset. If a rebuild is not required before editing the preset, then why is it happening upon restart? If a rebuild is required you would think it would happen immediately as part of the copy process, not upon restart. Additionally, why should Factory presets which were either issued with the current firmware or presets which have already been rebuilt go through the rebuild process a second time simply as the result of a copy? It just does not make sense to me.

I have tried mine with two different OTG cables and neither worked reliably with the Editor. I am surprised enough people have not tried connecting with tablets to compile a list of ones that work well with the Helix.

You will see the "Rebuild.." message on your next restart after loading CustomTone or saved presets from a previous firmware version. What mystifies me is this. After you are no longer getting "rebuild" messages (you have restarted at least once after preset load), if you copy a preset, including a Factory preset to a new Setlist location, you will see a rebuild message the next time you restart. It does not seem that a copied CustomTone or user preset that has already been rebuilt, or a Factory preset which comes with that version of the firmware should need to be rebuilt again just because it was copied to a different setlist location. Is everyone else seeing this same behavior? I can't remember if this was the behavior in previous firmware versions. If so, I did not notice it. I wonder if the rebuild message the OP is seeing every few times he restarts is due to the behavior described above?

I have not found this to be the case. The tablet I mentioned earlier is a Windows 10 tablet and does not work with the micro-USB port and adapter cable on the tablet itself; only with the full sized Type A USB port on the detachable keyboard. I believe there are quite a few other tablet users with Windows based tablets that have found this to be the case as well. There was another topic a while back discussing this issue. Not all Windows tablets are created equally and not all work with the micro-USB port that is often found on them in lieu of the Type A. Not only do many of them not work properly with the Helix they don't work properly with external hard drives as well (even when they are powered). I would not be surprised if even some of the tablets with a Type A connector on the tablet itself don't work. That is why I was hoping people might list the Windows tablets they have found that do work. I am especially interested in the inexpensive ones as you mention because I would rather not have a $900 Microsoft Surface tablet on stage if I don't have to.

Anyone found an ideal solution for glare during outdoor gigs?

It appears to come down to the micro/mini USB port implementation on the tablet itself. Most of them don't seem to properly support data transfer like a standard (Type A) USB port. If your tablet has a standard USB connector you may have a better chance of it working properly depending on how it has been implemented. I have an inexpensive tablet that works great with the Helix but only when plugged into the standard USB port on the detachable keyboard. Unfortunately that effectively renders the tablet a notebook. The micro-USB port on the tablet itself does not work even with a proper adapter cable . I think some of the Windows Surface tablets might work but they are not cheap. I would be curious to know what if any of the oldest versions of Surface tablets work with the Helix. Might be able to pick up a used one of those at a discount. Anyone using one?

No need to back anything up yet if you don't have any presets or IRs you need to save. You may want to take note of your global settings.

Yup, too much time goes into designing and perfecting presets to have a firmware/software glitch or even human error erase it. I am stating the obvious but backups are our best bet for preserving that work and I do them regularly.

I understand now, thanks for the clarification. Your original post did not specifically state that an entire Setlist had been wiped out. I would not be happy either. That is a new one on me, I don't believe I have seen that reported before. I might consider reinstalling the firmware as well as doing the global update after that incident just to restore some level of confidence in the update. Good luck and I hope this does not reoccur.

Sounds frustrating but I am not clear by what "ALL my work is gone" was referring to. Did you lose saved presets you had been working on? Are you unable to save presets or load Customtone or saved presets from your last firmware version? Can you give us a little more detail on what is malfunctioning?

LOL