HonestOpinion

@daedalus359 Here is what MS Copilot kicks back. It appears you already tried most or all of this. Maybe there is something in here that you haven't though. Btw, looks like you tested with multiple USB cables already, but I would still try yet another one. Copilot response: "It sounds like you’re encountering the “device descriptor request failed” error with your Line 6 Helix. This issue can be frustrating, but there are several steps you can try to resolve it: Plug into a Different USB Port: Sometimes, simply using a different USB port can resolve the issue. Avoid using USB hubs and try connecting directly to the back of your PC. Update Drivers: Ensure that you have the latest drivers for your Helix and your PC’s USB controllers. You can update drivers through the Device Manager. Reinstall HX Edit: If you’re already using the latest version of HX Edit, try reinstalling it. This will also reinstall the necessary drivers for your Helix1. Disable USB Selective Suspend: This setting can sometimes cause issues with USB devices. You can disable it through the Power Options in Windows. Use the Hardware and Devices Troubleshooter: Windows has a built-in troubleshooter that can automatically fix various hardware issues. You can run it by typing msdt.exe -id DeviceDiagnostic in the Run dialog (Windows Key + R)2. Check for Windows Updates: Make sure your operating system is up to date, as updates can include fixes for USB-related issues. Uninstall and Reinstall USB Controllers: Through the Device Manager, you can uninstall the USB controllers and then restart your PC. Windows will automatically reinstall the drivers3. any other suggestions? Certainly! Here are a few additional suggestions you can try to resolve the “device descriptor request failed” error with your Line 6 Helix: Try a Different USB Cable: Sometimes the issue can be as simple as a faulty USB cable. Use a different, preferably shorter, USB cable to see if that resolves the problem1. Check for Hidden Devices: In Device Manager, click on “View” and select “Show hidden devices.” Look for any greyed-out USB devices and uninstall them. This can help clear any conflicts2. Disable Fast Startup: Fast Startup can sometimes cause issues with USB devices. You can disable it by going to Control Panel > Power Options > Choose what the power buttons do > Change settings that are currently unavailable > Uncheck "Turn on fast startup"3. Update BIOS/UEFI Firmware: An outdated BIOS/UEFI firmware can sometimes cause USB issues. Check your motherboard manufacturer’s website for any available updates2. Use a Powered USB Hub: If your Helix is not getting enough power from your PC’s USB port, using a powered USB hub can help provide the necessary power1. Check for Interference: Other electronic devices can sometimes interfere with USB connections. Try moving your Helix and PC away from other electronic devices to see if that helps1."

Don't remember where I got them from. They were less than $10.00 for a quantity of ten if I remember correctly. Just some off-brand. They are still working well to this day.

Maybe I misunderstood your initial post. It seemed to indicate that the Helix's built-in pedal was not switching between EXP1 and EXP2 when you stomped on the switch. If that is the issue you were having, that could be a failing toe-switch, a hardware issue that would manifest at the software level. Seems worthwhile to check it. Also, by testing in the troubleshooting mode you help ensure that you are not encountering an issue caused by global options, preset configuration, firmware glitch, or some other higher-level combination of factors. You stated that "I do not have any external pedals or foot switches connected in any way" so I assume this is referring to the Helix's onboard pedal.

You probably are already aware, but you have to press hard on that thang! The toe-switch that is. Still not working... Try starting up your Helix in test mode (on the Helix - keep FS 3 & 4 depressed while starting). At least you may be able to see if the toe-switch appears is responding correctly at the hardware level. If it is, I might consider making backups and then doing the firmware update along with the full global reset again (FS 9 & 10). Try just the global reset first. If that doesn't work, then update the firmware again and do the global reset. Test the toe-switch on a factory preset.

LOL, good to know that I can still receive a useful follow-up to a comment I made five years ago. Thanks! :-)

Also, a good idea when you copy and paste presets (or even import them) to restart the Helix before editing those presets as sometimes the presets will go through a rebuild process upon restart, unless this behavior has changed in 3.60. Not sure if this has any impact on errant parameter changes but it can't hurt as a preventative measure.

The first thing to try is to disable 'Memory Integrity' (do so at your own risk, there are security implications or that setting wouldn't be there). Many Windows users have had to turn it off though to get various devices to work with Windows. The fact that you are seeing the same issue on multiple Win 10 computers makes this one of the possible culprits. You can do this on Windows 11 (assume it is the same or similar in Windows 10) by clicking on the Windows icon and typing "Windows Security". Open the Windows Security app and click the "Core isolation details" link under the "Core Isolation" heading. Now turn "Memory Integrity" off. This may fix your problem. In the past at least, the Helix editor/driver has not played well with the "Memory Integrity" set to on. There are drivers from other manufacturers that have this problem as well, it is not unique to the Line6 software/drivers. If that doesn't work, have you tried different USB cables? If that doesn't work I would create a backup, do a factory reset, and then a restore. Make sure to restart the Helix after the restore. If that doesn't work, I would create a backup and download and install HX Edit 3.60 and the latest version of the firmware (also 3.60). Then start the Line6 Updater, make sure you do NOT have HX Edit running while you are running the Updater. Then reinstall the firmware, do a factory reset, and restore your backup. Make sure to restart the Helix after the restore. The Updater will often recognize the Helix without issue, when there is a problem with either the firmware or the HX Edit installation that causes the Helix not to be recognized by HX Edit.

Use the link below for instuctions on how to use the Updater to get to the latest version of the firmware and editor:

I ran an FC file compare command ('diff' for Windows) and although it is possible it didn't compare the files properly, it does show many differences in the 'FC' output between the two. Most of the differences seem to be on the same keyword/value pairs in different sections of the Json file. One thing that struck me is the following, which I did verify as a difference both in the FC output and the files themselves, don't know how significant it is but it looks like it could be although "false" and "0" might be equivalent. Still interesting that they use different text: ***** HumanSoldClnOD.hlx 1563: "@position" : 99, 1564: "@behavior" : 0 1565: }, ***** HUMANSOLDCLNODCP.HLX 1563: "@position" : 99, 1564: "@behavior" : false 1565: }, ***** Or this, the keyword/pair that occurs throughout the file. ***** HumanSoldClnOD.hlx 768: "@fs_enabled" : false, 769: "@value" : 0.3000030517578125 770: } ***** HUMANSOLDCLNODCP.HLX 768: "@fs_enabled" : false, 769: "@value" : 0 770: } ***** Interesting that the copied preset is a different size with different content. Are you sure you didn't modify one of the presets inadvertently before exporting them? Have you restarted your LT since you copied and pasted the preset. Copied presets often (always?) do a rebuild after the next restart. Wonder if this would render them both identical and the same size? I would test with a fresh copy and paste first and then immediate restart. Test the size of the two files after this test. Don't have my Helix out of its backpack at the moment or I would do some copy/paste tests myself. Was also ruminating on whether there could be a global setting that might affect the contents of the saved file such as for example, setting 'EXP 2 Pedal Position' = 'Per Preset' and then moving the expression pedal before the export. Lastly, did you do a backup and restore after your last firmware/editor upgrade? All kinds of weirdness can occur down the line without this step.

I believe that the artifacts the OP was hearing were in fact due to some parameter being changed between snapshots, quite possibly on his delay; not the output block level. It is perfectly ok to change the level between snapshots using the output block. Several of my presets use this approach. As a matter of fact, it is the best place to do it if you want to ensure that you do not change the level going to, for example, an effect block downstream. Level changes made earlier in your signal chain can change the response of an effect downstream and hence your tone, not just the amplitude of your overall signal. So, for the most transparent volume changes, barring any tonal changes due to the actual increase/decrease in volume (Fletcher-Munson), an output block is probably the best way to go. Also, as @codamedia alluded to, it is a great way to save on using an extra block. With the Helix I often use a volume block and also a gain block as he does. I place the volume block right before delay and reverb so that I don't cut off my trails if I depress my expression pedal fully heel-down (0%).

One way to ease into snapshots is to go to the global settings 'Footswitches' --> 'Preset Mode Switches' and set it to either "Snap/Stomp" or "Stomp/Snap". This will give you one row of switches for stomps and one for snaps, enabling you to keep working in the manner you are used to using stomps, but also have snapshots at your disposal. The ability to activate/bypass multiple blocks at one time as well as simultaneously change multiple block parameters is incredibly useful and cuts down on the amount of tap dancing required for more complex mid-song changes. If you find that you don't have enough stomp switches available in this switch layout you can always change back to all stomps. If you want to go to the next level of customization on a per preset basis, you can use command center to, for example, just set up one or two switches for snapshots and leave the rest of your switches for stomps.

Maybe if you post the presets' names other users will recognize their function. If you don't feel like typing the names, you can export them as individual presets by highlighting the ones in question and then just cut and paste the names into your post.

Check by swapping out guitar and cable. Make sure your level is high enough on the main volume, the 'Ch Vol' for the amp block and on your monitor. Does your monitor require line level, check output setting. Do you use the expression pedal for volume, make sure it is not set too low. How are you connecting the Variax? Standard guitar cable or Ethercon? Try testing both ways.

It would be a great firmware update to add different selectable slopes, e.g. -6db, -12db, -18db, etc., to the EQ blocks that have HPF/LPF.

Respect! Personally, I prefer the FRFR route, but you are far from alone with this approach. And you're right, not much more to haul, especially if you use one of the many "lunchbox" heads, or power amp in a pedal, available these days. 'Course you do have the option of just using your vocal wedges for monitoring the guitar, less to haul but you are at the mercy of the person running the board and the sound characteristics of the wedge. I always bring my own monitor (FRFR). If you find yourself beating your head against the side of your FRFR, long after you should be past the initial learning curve of using and EQ'ing a modeler properly, it is probably time to try that thang with a guitar amp. That might just be the sound you are looking for. Traditional guitar amps can definitely be easier to dial in with a modeler as the speaker and amp are already designed to get the limited frequency range and frequency response that so many of us associate with a great guitar sound. LOL, this FRFR vs. guitar amp discussion has been going on as long as the forum has existed. Seems to have gotten less partisan over the years though.

Retaining the edits in the snapshot you are editing after a comparison, will depend on your global settings --> Preferences --> 'Snapshot Edits' setting. You will want to have 'Snapshot Edits' = 'Recall" if you want to jump back and forth using this method to compare snapshots, without losing your edits to the snapshot you are modifying. If set to "Discard" you will have to remember to explicitly save the preset before you switch snapshots, or you will lose your edits. Easier just to use the 'Recall' setting for this comparison method. From the Helix manual: "'Snapshot Edits' - Determines whether or not any edits made to a snapshot (block on/off, parameter control, Command Center, tempo) are remembered when returning to that snapshot. When set to “Recall,” any snapshot edits are recalled when jumping from snapshot to snapshot, and appear as you last left them. When set to “Discard,” any snapshot edits are discarded when jumping from snapshot to snapshot, and appear as the preset was last saved. If you want to save changes made to a snapshot while Snapshot Edits is set to “Discard,” press SAVE twice before selecting another. The camera icon on the home screen shows you the Snapshot Edits setting at a glance—When set to “Recall,” the camera is gray; when set to “Discard,” the camera is red. At any time, hold BYPASS and press SAVE to toggle this setting. See "Determining Snapshot Edit Behavior""

Excellent repair video. This is bound to help some folks out, if not now, later. Looks like it was fairly self-evident but would love to know which traces you tested to make sure LED was going to get power and that the board didn't have other issues further upstream. Also, can you list the part/LED that you used as a replacement?

I suppose another more remote possibility would be that different parts were used on one or more production runs and the new firmware doesn't play nice with them. Unlikely, but possible. Just seems like more units would have been impacted. Not saying this has anything to do with these failures but I would not be surprised if this kind of firmware update incompatibility pops up more frequently as manufacturers seem to be more likely these days to be forced to find alternative parts to keep their production line and assembly moving.

If you use FRFR's as stage monitors what you are really getting is FOH In The Room (FOHITR). Minus any additional mojo the soundman may be applying to FOH. You are essentially playing through a miniature PA as your stage monitor. Great for hearing something from stage that is closer to what the audience will experience but not by default equivalent to what playing a modeler through an amp sounds like. Although you can get close. I think you are probably right about the subs being the wrong solution. Sure, if your band uses subs for FOH, adding them to your monitor setup would theoretically make your stage sound even closer to FOH, but that is way too much extra expense, gear, weight, and fuss for my tastes. If you have determined you are going the FRFR route, you should be able to get your guitar sound without having to add a sub. I can see a bass player perhaps going to the trouble - nope. One potential drawback of using a sub with your stage monitor is it could add low-end mud, making it harder to hear other instruments and vocals. However, PAs like the Bose towers come to mind that often do double-duty as both stage monitors and FOH, and they have subs. albeit small ones. So hey, there are no fixed rules, but personally I would seek a solution without subs. Try out a different pair of FRFRs or work more on my presets, EQ in particular. Or perhaps you discover you prefer modeling through an amp better. Maybe not the Katanas. For FRFR players who have grown up playing through amps, one approach is to strike a compromise that provides enough of that ephemeral feel thing on stage recognizing it might have some impact on the FOH sound, might be good, might not - your call (and your soundperson and audience's). Looking for that point where you are happy with the sound you are getting from your FRFRs monitor(s) and things sound great at FOH as well. Probably the majority of the FRFR users on this forum favor an approach akin to this. For FRFR users who jumped in right from the start with modeling, or for those whose ears have adjusted over time to a FRFR monitor approach, or those who are more focused on FOH regardless of feel, they may just go for their preferred FOH sound - which is also their preferred monitor sound, and may be different than, for example, that of a player who grew up on and goes for a more traditional amp sound. And then there are players who will simply never like the sound and feel of a modeler through anything other than a good old-fashioned guitar amp. Nothing wrong with that! It just doesn't give you quite as accurate a reflection of what the audience is hearing at FOH. As has been said, no matter how you end up getting there, it is key that it sound good to you on stage as well as to the audience or you will be uninspired, impacting your show more than any difference in tone (unless it is egregious). Find the right mix of equipment for yourself. Almost anything can be made to sound great with enough tweaking. Just depends on how much time you want to spend on it. Some equipment combinations and individual's tone preferences fall into place faster than others. I imagine as different tones get created with digital equipment, not only players' but audiences' tone preferences are probably changing in response to recordings and live music made with less traditional devices (e.g. modelers). We're still modeling all those great analog amps and pedals as well as using them in studios though, even if modelers have also become ubiquitous. Not all the studios have dumped their tape machines yet either.

I could be wrong, but I don't think all the above is necessary. Instead, the following may apply as long as you can use the Windows installer to just uninstall the Line 6 driver: Make sure you have backups. Just in case! You want the latest version of the editor if you are on firmware 3.50. That is HX Edit 3.51, NOT 3.50. The latest bug fixed version of HX Edit is 3.51, there is no corresponding 3.51 firmware yet. The firmware is still 3.50 so you will not have to do a restore after upgrading from HX Edit 3.50 to HX Edit 3.51, assuming you have already installed the 3.50 firmware. So, first things first, if you haven't tried to roll back yet (@Hey_Joe indicated he already had HX Edit 3.51 installed), you are good. Otherwise, go ahead and download/install HX Edit 3.51. Go to Windows uninstaller under 'Programs' in the Control Panel and uninstall the Line 6 driver. On Windows 11 it is reporting as a separate item so it can be uninstalled individually. Hopefully it does the same on Windows 7 so you can remove just the driver without removing the rest of the HX software. If not, you will just have to adjust these instructions accordingly. If you have to reinstall HX Edit 3.51, there may be an option to uncheck the driver install. There are other methods for uninstalling drivers in Windows 7 as well. Generally speaking, you do NOT need to reinstall/downgrade HX Edit to get older drivers. Go to the Line 6 downloads page, in your case, 'Choose Hardware' = "Helix LT", 'Choose Software' = "Drivers", 'Choose OS' = "Windows 7". The latest as well as older version drivers are there. This will also show the last supported driver for Windows 7 as 1.96. Download it and install. Hopefully your other apps will work now.

Might just not have mentioned it but also do a restore of your backup as the final step. Then let them do the one-time rebuild after a restart before trying to edit anything.

Yup, the Kef LS50 Quick Start Guide has the RCA input spec as a line level input. As you would expect. @idididBtw, I know this sounds weird but some of those RCA to 1/4" cables claim to be uni-directional. I remember having a pair of Monster cables a while back like this that I had purchased for my studio monitors. They were uni-directional and actually had an arrow on the cable to indicate the proper direction for the signal flow. It is possible that something like this, or perhaps another issue with the cables, is the problem. Barring as has already been mentioned the fact that there is something wrong with your output settings or the overall level of your presets. Anyway, not a terrible idea to have employed some alternate speakers instead given how expensive the Kefs are.

Wondering if users encountering the greyed out 'Memory Integrity' option are having success either with turning it off via safe boot, or more likely via the bios 'Secure Boot' option that @PierMpointed to? Are neither of these procedures working? I agree with PierM, the more Line 6 tickets on this, the better. Disagreeable as the 'Memory Integrity' issue may be and as much of a burden as it may place on driver developers, I still hate having to turn security features off. It occurs to me that there should be a better way. Some method for an OS to implement a flexible, updateable, but still persistent enough piece of "middleware" or middle layer, it could be software or something like an updateable firmware ROM, for the drivers to talk to, such that device manufacturers don't have to modify their drivers quite so often when the OS changes. Pretty sure this persistent layer is somewhat in place, and methods of improving it have been thought about at length by developers. It just has never been fully realized (yet, never(?)). Just seems crazy for every company with an impacted driver to have to rewrite code rather than one company (the OS provider). Not to speak of the devices that actually become unusable once their manufacturers stop keeping up with OS changes. It is one thing for a device not to be able to take advantage of the latest improvements in an OS or newer computer hardware, it is quite another for it not to be backward compatible and unusable. This challenge involving driver "churn" has been around for decades and we take it for granted, but perhaps there could be a better approach that would extend devices' usable lifespans as well as reducing the driver update scramble drill.

Absolutely! We are talking about a three-piece here, not a trio. Also, yet another reminder of why, keeping possible future band personnel changes in mind, if you are hoping for longevity, continuity, and band/brand name recognition, it is frequently a bad idea to incorporate the number of players, e.g. "The Troubadours Three", or the current lead singer's surname into your band name, e.g. "The Fred Smith Band". :-)