HonestOpinion

I was able to reproduce your results using your downloaded preset whether I had the split at 'Even' or at 'B 100'. As soon as I move the IR on Path A (still between the split and merge) the sound changes audibly and dramatically. I used my own IRs so the issue seems to occur regardless of which IRs are loaded. I am accustomed to the sound changing momentarily while I am moving the block but it is did not only change during the move operation. The sound of the IR is clearly different after the move. You can actually hear this most dramatically when you set the split to 'Even'. Most strange and a bit disconcerting. I even restarted my Helix to make sure this preset got rebuilt. When I build your preset from scratch I do not get this behavior however, everything operates normally. I am wondering if you downloaded this preset from Customtone or whether you restored it from a previous version of the firmware? Perhaps something in the patch did not upgrade properly. Btw, I am currently on the 2.21 firmware and the 2.21 Editor. Probably has nothing to do with it but I would check your firmware and Editor and make sure they are matched up. Sometimes the Editor version does not get replaced properly if you don't uninstall it first. Good catch on this! Mystifying and I hope it does not impact other restored presets. Presets designed from scratch in this firmware don't seem to exhibit this behavior; at least not on my Helix.

Weird, I downloaded it again and got a different file, the correct one (same as preset in your pics). Testing it out now.

^^^^^ Yes indeed, it would be awesome! Would love to see this get added.

I always backup bundles 'just in case' although I do not use them for restores. It would be nice if there was a "Partial Bundle" backup that backed up all the User setlists, IRs, and maybe even global settings but not the Factory or Template setlists. That would certainly make restores faster after a firmware update. Backing up global settings might be a bit problematic when they change in new firmware versions so I can see where that might be left out or separate from the "Partial Bundle".

This video is very helpful for setting up MIDI amp channel switching. It is a particularly useful method if you don't know the MIDI codes for each channel of the amp. Instructions for changing snapshot color: - Snapshot footswitch LED color—You can now choose a color for each snapshot footswitch. Press the PRESETS knob and then Knob 6 (Rename Snapshot). Turn knob 5 (LED Color) to select the desired color. “Auto Color†is the default red. NOTE: There is currently no way to set snapshot footswitch color from the Helix application.

One question, when you say "it will maybe max out at some where between 60-80%". Is that what the Position setting on the volume block is reading or are you just hearing a decrease in the volume and assuming it is the volume block? If it is an estimate and the block is reading 100% then perhaps something else is going on.

What do you have the Global Settings --> EXP Pedals --> "EXP [] Pedal Position" parameter set to, snapshot, preset, or global? That could impact what you are seeing. Other than that it almost sounds like the Helix is losing the auto-calibration on these external pedals, although you would expect that to result maybe in a couple of percent off, not 20%-40%. Does unplugging and replugging the expression pedal restore the normal sweep range? Also, you say you are using two external expression pedals. Is it possible that the volume control is sometimes not being controlled by the one of those two pedals you think it is? I know that is unlikely but worth asking, particularly if you have been swapping different pedals in. I would definitely check out jbuhajla's suggestion to investigate the Position parameter on the volume block to make sure it is not assigned a min/max value. You can also look it up under the Controller Assign tab in the Editor.

I think your link may be incorrect. I am getting a preset called "Hi Gain" when I go to your link but it does not have the blocks you are showing above.

I am curious, what is the split showing after you drag the IR block and the preset starts including the sound of the IR on Path A that should be routed around? Is the split still set to "B 100%"?

I find the cuts required on both my low end and high end really vary from one preset to another. Variables like the amp I am using, the settings I choose in the amp's tonestack, the mic I choose for the Helix cabs, the IR selected if I am using one, the placement and settings of effects before and after the amp/cab, etc. all influence whether I need cuts/boosts at all and if so where. When I am feeling lazy I may just dial in a low and high cut on the cab generally anywhere from 70-110hz on the low end and 3.5khz-12khz on the high end. Obviously 3.5khz is a radical cut on the high end and I rarely cut that much although every once in a while it gives you a nice softened tone on a particularly fierce preset. More commonly my cab high cuts are more in the 4.5-9khz range (when required). If I am really looking to hone the preset and be more surgical with my cuts I may use milder or even no cab cuts and instead zero in with a graphic EQ before the amp/cab and a parametric EQ after the amp/cab. I use the sweep method with the parametric EQ to dial out any offending frequencies, not usually for a boost. The parametric is my final stage of EQ although some here recommend using a parametric EQ before the distortion effects and amp/cab to refine the signal and particularly for cutting the flubby low end before it hits those blocks. There are also great posts both here and on the Fractal site about specific areas in the frequency range to cut that work as general rules of thumb with most presets to more closely emulate the sound of a tube amp. It really depends on the preset, what equipment you are playing through and what sounds good to you. The great sounds are definitely in the Helix and the more you learn from forums and videos, and the more you work with it the easier and more quickly you can find them. Your own ears are ultimately your strongest ally. And... I still wouldn't mind having the idiot switch labeled "Great Tone". The greatest boon to preset design I have found is running a looper at the front of the signal chain and looping guitar parts so I can make changes while the guitar is playing instead of stopping to tweak knobs. I use snapshots and I will use a clean, crunch, and lead loop to dial them in depending on the intended use for each snapshot.

Some options from Thomanns UK as well. https://www.thomann.de/gb/search_dir.html?bf=&sw=Hum+elim

One more note, I notice you mention putting the "factory patches back in". A firmware update overwrites the two Factory setlists and the Templates setlist with the latest factory presets from Line6. Although some users do back up their favorite factory patches be aware that firmware updates sometimes include either brand new factory presets or modifications from Line6 to the old ones. If you restore your factory presets from the prior firmware version you will overwrite the latest updated factory presets from Line6 with older, possibly deprecated presets. IMHO it is better to save factory presets you like or have modified to a User setlist so that you can take advantage of the latest from Line6. In other words, for many users restoring Factory presets is unnecessary. Many users here back up and restore their User setlists and let the firmware updates manage the Factory and Template setlists. As noted here already, if you see User presets after you have done your firmware upgrade that is a dead giveaway that you need to do a global reset (backup everything first).

:)

As gunpointmetal pointed out you may want to look into a "Super Serial x2" route which can leverage both DSP chips on the Helix into a signal path. You can find a template for it in the Templates setlist at 01D.

The first thing I would check is my cabling to make sure I was not coming out of a send/return loop or the like by accident instead of the 1/4 out. Next I would check the setting on my large volume knob, it should be at least at 12:00 and also make sure my expression pedal was pressed down for max volume. Next I would look at the "Ch Vol" on my amp block and see where that is. That setting has a huge impact on the output level of the Helix. Also look in Global Settings --> Ins/Outs --> '1/4" Outputs' and check whether it is set to Mic or Line. 'Mic' is the lower output setting. If none of those things is a factor I would start swapping out my cables and guitar. Edit: Just wanted to note that the expression pedal does not need to be pressed down all the way during normal usage it is just one of those things that is easy to overlook when you are new to the device and having level issues. Particularly if you are not aware that the preset you are trying has a volume block assigned to it.

Make sure you back up all your presets and IRs first, they will be deleted. Also, take note of your global settings as they will need to be reset. Global reset = HELIX FLOOR/LT ONLY: While holding footswitches 9 and 10 (middle two switches on the bottom row), turn on Helix. Wait for the message “Will reset Globals and restore stock Presets, Setlists and IRs…†to appear and let go.

Horrors!! I was really hoping it was due to a few of my worst designed presets. You mean the fact that I hear the fizz even when I am walking alone in the woods should be a clue that it is not caused by my Helix? :D

I agree. Custom user blocks that showed up in the block menu in their respective categories, e.g. Modulation, Distortion, etc. along with the Helix default blocks, would be great! Hoping there is enough memory on-board that we could get at least a few user defaults for each category without detracting from other future features that may also require additional memory. Until then I do what silverhead does and that is when I find a custom setting I really like I store it in my Templates directory for copy and paste. You just have to remember to backup your custom presets in the Templates directory when you do a firmware upgrade as the global reset deletes and then refreshes the Templates setlist with the latest factory templates.

Found this blurb in the JTV Pilot's Handbook: If all this alternate tuning mess is too much for you, simply set the Alternate Tuning knob to STANDARD to bypass this feature. In Standard mode, every Variax model will play in standard tuning, including any alt-tuned models like the ones in the Custom 2 bank. I am wondering if the Helix is trying to "honor" the default behavior of the Variax. When the Variax is in 'Standard' tuning mode it overrides any model with alternate tuning. Maybe the Helix's input block setting should be able to supersede the Variax and force its own setting but I can't remember whether it used to or not.

Methinks you are correct, duh. :huh:

I prefer your use of the word tube "sizzle" instead of "fizz" for the frequencies in a tube amp that you want to keep. To me "sizzle" more accurately implies part of the natural character of a tube amp rather than the more pejorative "fizz" which I have seen so often used to describe a more artificial digital sort of artifact particularly present on older or low-end modeling devices. Maybe splitting hairs but just trying to differentiate between three things - "sizzle" = the positive mid-high frequency characteristics of a tube amp that you want to retain that help it both sit in and cut through the mix, "fizz" = the frequency characteristics of a modeling device that can give you an unpleasantly "artificial" vibe, and lastly "incorrect EQ" = the areas in the frequency range that may not necessarily sound "digital/artificial" but are boomy, muddy, spikey, or brittle, jump out of the mix unnaturally, and exhaust a listener's and player's ears and should be attenuated.

LOL. Thanks for the invite but I got stuck in a traffic jam thousands of miles away. :D

Voted! :)

You do have to press down firmly before the wah engages, as in you generally want to be standing up and give it a good hard press. You probably already have this set up properly but thought I would mention that you need to make sure you have a wah block set up properly in your preset. The switch on the expression pedal does not make a resounding click (which IMHO is a good thing). If your preset is not setup properly with a wah block it may actually be 'clicking' over without you hearing the click but is not properly setup to activate the wah. I would strongly recommend waiting a while to either get used to the the switch, or for it to "work in" and perhaps soften up a bit before I went and trimmed anything or applied a softening agent. The Helix also has an auto-engage function if you prefer not to use the switch at all. You can also use snapshots to switch to a snapshot that has the Wah or other effect assigned to the expression pedal already engaged; that way you don't require the expression pedal switch. Here is a blurb from the firmware notes on the "auto enable" function: - Auto Enable/Bypass blocks from EXP 1/2/3 and Variax Volume/Tone Knobs—Processing blocks (such as Wah, Pitch Wham, etc.) can now be enabled/bypassed by simply moving EXP 1, EXP 2, EXP 3, or Variax’s Volume or Tone knob. Press MENU and then Knob 1 (Bypass Assign). Turn Knob 1 (Switch) to select the desired switch. When selecting a continuous controller as a switch, Knob 2 (Position) and Knob 3 (Wait) appear. - Bypass Assign > Position—Position determines the location in the Exp Pedal or Variax knob’s travel where the block is engaged. For example, if set to 1%, the block will turn off as soon as the pedal is moved to the heel position. If set to 99%, the block will only turn on when the pedal is moved to the toe position. To swap the on/off state regardless of position, press the BYPASS button. - Bypass Assign > Wait—Wait determines how long it takes after the Exp Pedal or Variax Knob is moved below the Position location before the block turns off. For example, you may not want the Wah to turn off instantly every time you hit the heel position during your big funk solo. Also, does your song really need a big funk solo?

I wanted to also mention that besides the informative content of this video the most exciting thing to me was this - Enter the words "isolated solo" or "isolated guitar" into the search on Youtube and you will pull up a treasure trove of the original guitar solos that have been pulled out of the mix on some of rock's most famous tunes such that only the guitar is present. I would not be surprised if there are some other search strings that would yield these as well. That combined with Youtube's 'Speed' setting which allows you to slow down a video to as slow as 1/4 speed while staying at pitch provides an invaluable tool for learning your favorite guitar solos. Even if this video had sucked, which it most definitely does not, that piece of information alone would have made it worth the price of admission. If you have not used the Speed setting in Youtube before it is located under the "Settings" icon which looks like a cog or gear.