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DarthHollis

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DarthHollis last won the day on August 13 2019

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About DarthHollis

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  1. From the owner's manual, I thought this was interesting. The Effects Loop is basically a circuit bridge from the end of the preamp to the Driver stage, with the SEND interrupting the signal at the preamp’s end and the RETURN feeding the power section just before the Driver tube. Using this patch point usually ensures the best sonic performance as well as signal to noise ratio with your outboard processors. That said, it is important to point out that this is a critical junction in the TRIPLE CROWN’s circuit path and whatever is inserted here can have an effect on the overall performance of the amplifier. The Effects Loop is a Series Loop, meaning that the entire signal goes through it, unlike a Parallel Loop where a percentage of the unaffected pure signal is taken around the Loop. Therefore, the quality of the devices used in the Loop and their performance is critical to achieving the best sound and performance from your amplifier.
  2. Mesas are a different animal. They sometimes have parallel FX loops which causes problems. Most amps have series FX loops. http://www.diamondamplification.com/blog/2016/9/18/series-v-parallel-effects-loops The other thing I would suggest is to make sure the FX loop you are using on the Helix is set to the correct level and matches your amp. Go to the Global Settings - Send/Return (FX loop #). Normal setting for amps is Inst (instrument) but some amps will work better with Line level which is considerably louder and what yours may be set to.
  3. Not all amps work this way, but on some amps the master volume is pre the FX loop. The 5150 III works this way. I set all my volumes on my three channels so they are relatively the same volume. Then I use the Helix volume as a master-master volume. That way, if I need to turn up or down I only change one knob, not three and have to balance them out again. Generally speaking, if you max the volume on the Helix and you turn off the FX loop on your amp, which means the Helix volume will not work, then you should hear no difference. You can set it up many different ways to achieve what you want. In my opinion, changing the master volume on the Helix has little to no impact on "tone." Another reason I keep the volumes constant on the amp is so the noise gate I have after the pre-amp does not need to be adjusted for volume changes. I've done similar with my "analog" board by adding a JHS Little Black Amp Box Signal Converter which is a basically a master volume I can control in the fx loop of the amp.
  4. The Control Center is not yet available in the HX Stomp. That is how I was able to set up snapshots to control the 5150 III with my Helix Floor. I thought I saw that it was coming in the 3.0 release but don't quote me on that. You can set it up with presets but that is all right now.
  5. Another option is to use the Simple Pitch shift. Only change the pitch by 5-15 cents. I like 6.9 cents. Then change the delay to 20-30 ms. Mix to 100% if you put it to one side and want a stereo image. In my opinion, this sounds better than Double Take but still not quite as good as the Mimiq.
  6. DarthHollis

    Too Boomy??

    I've found that the IRs I was using in my Helix sound great in the PowerCab + but are muffled with a band. Problem is I'm listening to them through headphones and when I practice with my band they sound good but don't really cut through the mix. I tried the Allure IRs that are in the PC+ (you can download them for free) and they are much better than I originally thought. Then I went back through my OwnHammer IRs and found some with the mic formation "CUT." Those seem great also. Next practice I'm going to do some experimenting. In the past I have always run the sound but I'm going to have less control of that with our first couple gigs so I want to be giving the soundman the best signal I can.
  7. Yes, but I couldn't figure it out in Edit. On the floor or rack here is what you need to do. Go to the output block and page over to the right. Just like any other snapshot change you need to push down on the knob and then move it to the other IR. It will have [parentheses] around the number. That will be the number set for that snapshot. Hope this helps.
  8. Get this: https://www.americanmusical.com/daddario-pw-wg-02-wireless-transmitter-instrument-cable/p/DAD-PWWG02?src=Y0802G00SRCHCAPN&adpos=&scid=scplpDAD+PWWG02&sc_intid=DAD+PWWG02&gclid=Cj0KCQjw-_j1BRDkARIsAJcfmTH5FlP4IaxW5h5vP-LZ9DFyW9xtvr91oTIMgTrjva0XaRXAuie8IwkaAs6TEALw_wcB Should last a long time.You can make it however long you want. Also, there is a lock on the 3-pin so that should not come out easily like you describe.
  9. The Helix range of devices are not polyphonic. That means that it cannot handle more than one note at a time. Also, the further you change the pitch the more of a difference you will hear. Your settings look OK for a full step drop. If you want a more accurate reading you will want to get a Digitech Drop or other polyphonic pitch shifter. I have a video that compares the Helix to the Drop pedal.
  10. It is not the DSP. It is the programming. Line 6 has to come up with a way to perform polyphonic pitch shifting that has not been done before. Other effect makers (Digitech, Eventide, TC Electronic, etc) have their own proprietary algorithms. About a year ago, Frank R did say they had hired some people that had knowledge of polyphonic algorithms and had worked for another such company. He said they were working on it, but that it would take time. My guess is that it will not be in 2.9 but is possible in 3.0. I have no insider knowledge. They may be much farther away than that. I did see an interview with Paul Reed Smith where he said he learned a technique from his father on how to recognize frequencies. His father was in WWII and was a radar or radio operator of some king. The trick is recognizing the pitch fast. Think about a frequency being a wave. From what I understand, most algorithms can only detect the frequency after a full wave but he had a technique on how to do it with a smaller part of the wave. I searched and could not find that particular video but it was very interesting. It's not even about poly pitch, just the fact that recognizing a single pitch can be so complicated.
  11. The FX loops add noise if placed in front of a dirty amp. It's the Helix, not anything else. You can put a noise gate right after the FX loop, that worked for me when I put a Drop pedal in a loop. I prefer to not put anything in an FX loop before the amp. All my pedals go before the Helix.
  12. Try out the powercab before you buy it. I have a powercab 112 plus and I think it works great as an FRFR and for IR loading but I don't really like the speaker only option as much. This is where the Powercab is supposed to sound like an amp without any microphone simulation. It just sounds strange to me. I've used plenty of real amps and I prefer the sound of the FRFR or IR sims. They actually sound amazing and it's what I use with a live band.
  13. It is the loop that is noisy, not the pedal. I have experimented several times. In my opinion the best way to set it up is wireless -> Drop -> Freqout -> Helix input. Yes it's nice to have them in a loop but I had to add a noise gate after the loop for medium to high gain patches.
  14. You will probably need a Pedal Power digital or a Cioks DC7. Each of those pedals takes a fairly high draw of current. I know the Drop is 300 mA. The normal Pedal Powers usually have 100 mA per output. Check the draw of each pedal. The digital PP only has 4 outputs. The Cioks has 7 outputs and each one is 600 mA plus you can change between 18V, 12V, and 9V for each output. MXR talk box is 18V. The power draw is unknown but it comes with a 1000 mA supply. I did quite a search but 240couldn't find the information. Digitech Frequout draws about 240 mA at 9V. Digitech Drop is 300 mA at 9V
  15. My G10S has been great. It's powered like a normal pedal (needs 300mA) and I don't have to buy batteries. The internal battery lasts a long time and usually can recharge fully between sets anyway. It comes with a right angle adapter so it will work with many different guitar inputs. It's just been very reliable. Also, you can always buy another transmitter for $100. I like not having anything hanging off of my guitar strap or in my back pocket. I've been using either the G10 or G10S for 5 years without problems except for drop outs from wi=fi routers. Iif your receiver (the part on the pedal board) is within 10 feet of a wireless router, you will probably have drop outs. It's just the nature of digital wireless and the spectrum that it uses. I seemed to have more problems with the old expensive Shure wireless.
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