OmeRoon

Thanks AlanFall, working here too now (PodXT)! :)

Only got this one. Later I spraypainted the inside of the mesh at the back with silver/gunmetal like glossy paint so it reflects the red light a bit more.

I also noticed some "burnt" stuff on the board (especially on the back) but closer inspection revealed it was only burned glue; the actual resistors were fine. So I guess it just got a bit too hot. Also: the re are some aluminium "spacers" that have a dual function: besides keeping the DSP board of the casing, they are also heatsinks. They are connected to the LM1086 regulators on the DSP board (and those can get pretty hot). You can see them on the first picture in this thread. The burnt glue/silicon/whatever was on the back of these. If you can post an image of the R58 / R59 maybe someone else can help you out? If the markings on their resistors are still visible you should be able to find out what you (might) need. The heatsink works really good btw. so if overheating is the problem I'd recommend to try that first as the DSP board is pretty expensive. ;-)

I think the MK1 feels a bit more solid too... But you could try Ebay: http://www.ebay.com/bhp/line-6-fbv-shortboard

http://www.vettaville.nl/page.php?id=78 - scroll down a bit to "Spider Valve - Presetlist". Is this what you are looking for?

I think this is what you are looking for: http://koch-amps.com/dt_portfolio/loadbox-ii-power-attenuator-speaker-simulator/ Also check out this thread as it's more or less the same question: http://line6.com/support/topic/2697-is-there-a-way-ie-different-tubes-etc-to-minimize-master-volume-on-mkii-212/

Couldn't it be a heat related problem? The MK1 has the problem of getting in a "reset loop" when it's getting hot. Maybe the MK2 has a similar problem but the symptoms are a bit different? Does it occur after some time or also immediately after you switch it on? In my band I am using a HD100 MK1 and the other guitarist is using a MK2. I remember he had to reset his amp some time ago too because his presets suddenly went berzerk, but I think it only happened once. His MK2 is modified though (HD100 converted to 50watt, Mercury Magnetics transformers, other tubes and an SV Pre).

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7XfluCJ3czk - here Reinhold himself explains what he did. ;-)

The other guitarist in my band also got a Mesa SPAX7A in his MK2 now. We switched tubes (my SPAX with his 12AX7) and did a "before and after" comparison and the absence of noise is simply brilliant. He immediately order the tubes too (and so did I, just to have a spare one). :-) Just replace the #1 tube and be amazed!

Just a last update: it´s been 2 months now and we did a couple of gigs in the meantime as well as a weekly 3 hour rehearsal session (which are quite loud). I haven´t experienced any problems ever since, so I think I can recommend this fix to anyone having the same problem. I think all the info you need is in this topic but ofcourse you can always send me a PM if you have any specific questions. Cheers!

Maybe here? http://www.fullcompass.com/brand/LN6/Replacement-Service-Parts.html

I just replaced it with this: http://mesa.stores.yahoo.net/spax7.html - it could be my imagination but it really feels more responsive due to the pure absence of hiss/noise. Or it is just my imagination. ;-)

Sounds good to me! Now I only need to find that damn thing... :D

Aha! Thanx! :D And those after market switches replace the dipswitches that I can see on these pix I assume?

Cut the faulty plug off the original cable and connect a new one. Most computershops have a crimping tool for that, if you're lucky they will connect it for you and you'll be done for $1. How to do it: http://www.computercablestore.com/cat5e-patch-cables1.aspx I think your problem right now might be the length of the cable, which weakens the signal. After all the pedalboard is not a networkcard in a computer with it's own powersupply. Ps. if it is a cross cable it's normally printed on the cable as well. As stated above you shouldn't use those.