OmeRoon

Thanks AlanFall, working here too now (PodXT)! :)

Only got this one. Later I spraypainted the inside of the mesh at the back with silver/gunmetal like glossy paint so it reflects the red light a bit more.

I also noticed some "burnt" stuff on the board (especially on the back) but closer inspection revealed it was only burned glue; the actual resistors were fine. So I guess it just got a bit too hot. Also: the re are some aluminium "spacers" that have a dual function: besides keeping the DSP board of the casing, they are also heatsinks. They are connected to the LM1086 regulators on the DSP board (and those can get pretty hot). You can see them on the first picture in this thread. The burnt glue/silicon/whatever was on the back of these. If you can post an image of the R58 / R59 maybe someone else can help you out? If the markings on their resistors are still visible you should be able to find out what you (might) need. The heatsink works really good btw. so if overheating is the problem I'd recommend to try that first as the DSP board is pretty expensive. ;-)

I think the MK1 feels a bit more solid too... But you could try Ebay: http://www.ebay.com/bhp/line-6-fbv-shortboard

http://www.vettaville.nl/page.php?id=78 - scroll down a bit to "Spider Valve - Presetlist". Is this what you are looking for?

I think this is what you are looking for: http://koch-amps.com/dt_portfolio/loadbox-ii-power-attenuator-speaker-simulator/ Also check out this thread as it's more or less the same question: http://line6.com/support/topic/2697-is-there-a-way-ie-different-tubes-etc-to-minimize-master-volume-on-mkii-212/

Couldn't it be a heat related problem? The MK1 has the problem of getting in a "reset loop" when it's getting hot. Maybe the MK2 has a similar problem but the symptoms are a bit different? Does it occur after some time or also immediately after you switch it on? In my band I am using a HD100 MK1 and the other guitarist is using a MK2. I remember he had to reset his amp some time ago too because his presets suddenly went berzerk, but I think it only happened once. His MK2 is modified though (HD100 converted to 50watt, Mercury Magnetics transformers, other tubes and an SV Pre).

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7XfluCJ3czk - here Reinhold himself explains what he did. ;-)

The other guitarist in my band also got a Mesa SPAX7A in his MK2 now. We switched tubes (my SPAX with his 12AX7) and did a "before and after" comparison and the absence of noise is simply brilliant. He immediately order the tubes too (and so did I, just to have a spare one). :-) Just replace the #1 tube and be amazed!

Just a last update: it´s been 2 months now and we did a couple of gigs in the meantime as well as a weekly 3 hour rehearsal session (which are quite loud). I haven´t experienced any problems ever since, so I think I can recommend this fix to anyone having the same problem. I think all the info you need is in this topic but ofcourse you can always send me a PM if you have any specific questions. Cheers!

Maybe here? http://www.fullcompass.com/brand/LN6/Replacement-Service-Parts.html

I just replaced it with this: http://mesa.stores.yahoo.net/spax7.html - it could be my imagination but it really feels more responsive due to the pure absence of hiss/noise. Or it is just my imagination. ;-)

Sounds good to me! Now I only need to find that damn thing... :D

Aha! Thanx! :D And those after market switches replace the dipswitches that I can see on these pix I assume?

Cut the faulty plug off the original cable and connect a new one. Most computershops have a crimping tool for that, if you're lucky they will connect it for you and you'll be done for $1. How to do it: http://www.computercablestore.com/cat5e-patch-cables1.aspx I think your problem right now might be the length of the cable, which weakens the signal. After all the pedalboard is not a networkcard in a computer with it's own powersupply. Ps. if it is a cross cable it's normally printed on the cable as well. As stated above you shouldn't use those.

Your effort to find one is much appreciated! Thanx man! And I didn't know there were two versions, that's good info to have. I can see myself happily buy and install the wrong version. :) How do I recognise the 100w version? Is it printed on there somewhere, or a bigger tube or something? [pushing-my-luck-mode on] But if there aren't any plans for the future, maybe Strymon can be persuaded to release a schematic so we can build one ourselves? [pushing-my-luck-mode off]

Please do! :D

As you probably all know, the SV-Pre mod by Strymon is not available anymore. However, I'd still like to own one for my HD100 Mk1. ;-) Anyone got one for sale? Or is there anyone that can provide a schematic so we can build it ourselves? If you don't know what I mean, visit this link: http://www.strymon.net/products/svpre/

And it did! We had a great gig, no problems at all. Problem solved, case closed! ;)

Tested the amp today. We played our set for next Saturday twice and everything worked fine. No reset loops, no smoke, no smell of burned electronics. ;) The amp worked exactly like it supposed to do. So I guess it's problem solved! The final test will be this Saturday where it will go on stage. I will bring a second amp just in case, but I expect the HD100 will do fine now.

LED strip into place. It's an adhesive 12V SMD LED strip which I put on the frontpanel, out of sight - just above the screws. From the back it looks like that famous district in the capital of my country. :D However, from the front you don't see the LEDs but the tubes and other components light up red, it's actually pretty subtle. Today I will spraypaint the inside of the backpanel (mesh) with silvercolored paint so it will reflect the red light a bit more.

S**t happens. If you're messing with fire, you can expect to burn your fingers once in a while. :D Here's the fried diode: As you can see above, the first one is cracked. The last one (at the bottom) was short circuiting, so to be sure the tube guru replaced all 4 and everything was working again. ;) Just picked up the amp today, it's all working incl. the fan and a ledstrip (the red/black wire goes to the fan, the other one to the leds). My friend the tube expert has added some power regulator to the tube socket which increases the current so now I got a steady source of power. This goes beyond my knowledge of electronics but if anyone is interested: he draw me a small schematic, I can put that online as well. But first: the big test! Next Tuesday we'll be rehearsing for 3 hours so if all goes well, I am in the clear. I'll keep you posted...

Hm... it didn't really go as planned. It seems the power transformer is not strong enough to power both the fan and the DSP board. @ Nprenger : I guess you were lucky with a stronger power transformer or your fan hardly uses any power... In my case I fried 2 diodes on the board. :angry: They are replaced now and it all works again, but without the fan. Luckely I know someone who is an absolute guru with tube amps, so he is currently fixing me a small extra transformer that will coexist with the original one, so it can power the fan without interfering. To be continued...

One major disadvantage of the MK1 is the overheat problem: Some MK1's will overheat and go into a resetloop. As far as I know the MK2 does not have that problem.

Almost done! I soldered everything and fixed the fan problem. It seemed I connected it to +12V and -12V instead of +12V and GND. That also explains the noise, it was running on double speed. Now that's corrected it's "weally weally qwuiet". :) So I also put the fan in place. It's glued in using high temperature resisting silicone kit (it should be resistant to about 300 degrees C so that should be enough). As silicone kit is flexible, it will also reduce any vibrations from the fan (if there were any). As you might be able to see, I screwed in some spacers from a PC mainboard (you know, those pins that allow you to screw your mainboard to the PC chassis) to get a little bit of space between the chassis and the fan, so it can suck in some air. So now it's time to close things up and start testing! :)