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a2dconverterguy

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  1. @rwanderingThanks for the info… I am guessing that you are right that the D10 will receive power from the Stadium XL. Also, I found the D10 dimensions on the Thomann website - Expand D10 dimensions: 40.6 x 138 x 99.7 mm
  2. I built this satellite board for use with my Stadium XL with a space for the future Expand D-10 I guessed the size of the D10 box by scaling to the size of the known ethercon connector in one of the pix. If anyone at Line 6 knows, here are some questions… 1. what are the actual dimensions of the D-10? (found this on Thomann Dimensions: 40.6 x 138 x 99.7 mm) 2. is the D-10 phantom powered by the Stadium Nexus port or by the USB-C port? 3. what is the current draw of the D-10? thanks! Joe
  3. I taped a magnet near the wire hole to catch any string ends... I hope this helps Seeya Joe
  4. Hi - Great post on power for the poorly designed G10 but how the  heck did you open the box - I undid the screw but can't see how to open it ? appreciate help before I pry it to destruction!

    1. a2dconverterguy

      a2dconverterguy

      Use a guitar pick to separate the halves at the circled locations....

      5DAD3167-BF80-43BF-A908-8909AF7FA10A.jpeg

    2. chris_edbowen

      chris_edbowen

      Thank you so much - really appreciate this - Going to give it a go now.

      And thanks for posting the pics really useful

      Chris Bowen

    3. chris_edbowen

      chris_edbowen

      Success - I used a knife as the pick was too thick but once the first housing is free it was pretty easy - useful knowing where they were though.

  5. Hi rsan, I haven't built one of these... I just re-drew Doughadfield's design as a courtesy to show how it could be mounted into a small plastic box... I suggest getting someone in your area who is proficient in electronics to build you one... (the below schematic is much clearer than any pix of an actual wired box could be.) [1] 1/4" stereo jack, [1] 1/4" mono jack, [1] 2N7000 Transistor and [1] SPDT switch and some hook-up wire. The wiring is soldered to the components to match the schematic and mounted in a small plastic box. I hope this helps. seeya Joe P.S. As mentioned before... if you are having hum from ground-loop problems... the above will not help. you will need to isolate using relays and an external power source as follows...
  6. You can purchase a TA4F from Digikey... https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/switchcraft-inc/TA4FLX/TA4FLX-ND/1290100 The pinout of the Line 6 G50/ G90 cable is as follows... Pin 1 Sleeve Pin 2 Not Connected Pin 3 Tip Pin 4 Not Connected I hope this helps seeya Joe
  7. I opened a ticket as well and I attached a link to the video that explains the problem... Line 6 support responded that they would present this to the team to see if they are aware of it. Seeya Joe
  8. Hi malcevansmusic The G10 operates on RF2... if one Line 6 TX is using RF2 all other Line6 devices must operate on RF2 There are some tech-notes on Line6 support to tell you how to change all of your TX to RF2 If you have older Firmware, that can only run RF1, you may have to do Firmware updates on the Transmitters and receivers to be able to Transmit on RF2... I've done this on my G30 RX, G50 RX and three G30 TX's The update is done through Line 6 Monkey Updater... info below courtesy of member Andreas_flf http://line6.com/support/topic/395-how-to-really-update-the-firmware-of-a-relay-g30-6-channel-receiver-rxs06/ Hi Erik, I've done that.... I have [3] G30 Transmitters that I used to help lock in a lower channel with the G10T Transmitter.. (NOTE: You will need a G10 Receiver to be able to change the channel on the G10T) The secret is to have the other transmitters operating at channels that you do not want to use... 1. I turned on all [3] G30 Transmitters tuned to Transmit on Channels 4, 5, and 6 2. I inserted the first G10T into the G10 Receiver Base and it locked to Channel 1 which I used with my G30 Receiver on Channel 1 3. I plugged the first G10T into a guitar so that it would continue to transmit on Channel 1 4. I inserted the second G10T into the G10 Receiver Base and it locked to Channel 3 which I used with my G50 Receiver on Channel 3 If you have a G50 Transmitter, you can transmit and block out channels above Channel 6 that the G30 Transmitter can't do. Also, it helps to turn off WiFi in your phone and laptop and turn off your WiFi router... since there will be less 2.4 GHz interference the G10 Receiver will pick lower channels. I hope this helps! seeya Joe
  9. Here is a video showing the problem...
  10. Hey H. O. My testing confirmed the bug.... it is very easy to replicate.... Hopefully this will be fixed in the next update Seeya Joe
  11. Hey Tal, It looks like there is a counter that adds up the time that you hit 0% while playing the wah... When the time that you hit 0% in multiple instances exceeds the Wait time, the Wah is Bypassed momentarily. (i.e. lets say your wait time is 1000mS and, during your wah-ing, you momentarily hit 0% four times for 250mS... on the last time you hit 0% the Wah will bypass momentarily) It should work like this: The counter should reset to zero every time you do not remain at 0% for the bypass Wait time. Hopefully Line 6 will identify this and correct it in the next FW update. @Digital_Igloo Seeya Joe
  12. Hello Erik, Either you have: 1. a bad G10T or 2. the G10T has selected a channel above Channel 12 on the G50 or above Channel 6 on the G30 Do you have access to the G10 Base to verify that it works? (You may have to sync with a G10 Base.) I have [2] G10T's and they work Flawlessly with my G30/ G50 on channel 1 and 2 respectively and also work with my G10 base as well... I hope that you find a solution seeya Joe
  13. Sure it will!.... I use the G10 Transmitter with the G30 and G50 Receivers all the time :D You just have to turn the receiver channel selector until you find which G10 channel is transmitting on. Good Luck Joe
  14. Hello F.G. You can connect to your Marshall power Amp to the HELIX EXT AMP Switch with no worry of damage... (Short-to-Sleeve is the same as Short-to-Ground) The switch will most likely work, but, there is a risk of a ground loop which would impart a hum in your audio. (You may have to add an Isolation transformer between the Helix Audio OUTs and the Power amp INs to get rid of the hum.) Also, do not place an isolation transformer on the HELIX EXT AMP SW.... the switching won't work :) I hope this helps Seeya Joe
  15. Hey Gabsbiz... That post was From December 2015 :D ... way before snapshots and auto-engage/ bypass.. I will backtrack for you as a courtesy... My original intent was to use an old wah pedal, modified to be an expression pedal with a 10k POT and an internal momentary switch, to be EXP 2 and control the wah while allowing 'ext bypass' like the HELIX Rack unit... Although the Helix Floor has the switch under the pedal for EXP1/EXP2... it doesn't have an external Jack for the "Exp Pedal Toe Switch" like the HELIX Rack... This would have meant that I would have had to modify the HELIX with an additional jack and wired to parallel the Internal toe-switch like this... Not wanting to modify my HELIX, and hoping that auto engage/ bypass might be in a future update, I waited it out and now I use a Spring-loaded Expression Pedal with auto-engage to bypass the wah.... A way better solution without any Helix mods required!! (Auto-engage also allows me to automatically turn on a delay and a Gain and Volume boost at the same the Pedal is moved past 5%.) I hope this helps Seeya Joe
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