somebodyelse

Hmm? Teles and 'snappy'? Steel saddles and lower wind pickups are the way to go. Early pickups, pre '53ish were 43AWG/A3/9+k. and the bridge saddles were made of brass. Around then they switched to 42AWG/A5/~6-7k for the bridge pickups. They switched to steel saddles around '56 IIRC. 'Snappy' is often associated with the switch to rosewood boards in '59, but there were other changes which probably contributed more to it. In terms of the blocks... I can get a snappy country-esque tone using just a Boogie Mk4 model with '59 spec' Tele, so you shouldn't have any trouble if you follow the other's advice, but that 'snap' is going to come from the guitar, not the Helix.

You're welcome. The idea behind the 'tempo' setting is that you set it for the tempo of the song the preset is for, and then when you're setting up your delays, they can be set to 'musical intervals', which then syncs your 'echoes' in time with the music. It's feature I've never used - I've been playing over 40 years - simply because I don't play in scenarios where you can guarantee the song will be played at a specific tempo - real life human drummer, no click. I've always set my delays in milliseconds. If you look in the delay control section there's a button 'sync' which when pressed changes... not sure what to - (sorry, I don't actually own a Catalyst), but your delay times can then be set in ms, rather than note intervals.

Check the MIDI settings on the Tonex, too. Try the old MIDI cable. Back in the dark ages (before MIDI), you could get 5 pin DIN cables for audio use. They're not wired the same a a MIDI cable, from what I remember. I'd be stunned if you've been sold one, but you never know. After that I dunno - I've been using a MIDI controlled rack for decades, but other than setting the channels and whether programs start at 000 or 001, it didn't get any deeper than that.

The tempos are different - top right of the window. You're using 'synced' delay times, which are linked to the tempo. On the first one... are you listening for long enough to actually hear the echo...? Otherwise... all looks okay to me. PS; Could also be that your noisegate settings are cutting the echo off.

No.

Also, assuming you're in HX Edit and you're using a mouse wheel, make sure the pointer isn't hovering over any parameters you don't want to adjust...

Yer welcome. Haven't tried it, myself, so I'm only guessing that it'd work.

Export 'em as a setlist and import the setlist in to Native?

Buddy, I don't worry about it... I'm 57 years old, I've been using the same MIDI rack mount setup up for 30 years and I'm still finding out things it can do that I didn't know about. Makes me chuckle when I read posts where people have given up on a piece of gear after a week with it, though.

Absolutely. The moral of the story is 'learn your gear properly, before writing it off'. I've had my Helix 3 or 4 years and only found I could do this on Thursday.

Old thread, nevertheless... Usually play with the pad off, however, I have a couple of presets, where I have a few Snapshots set up specifically for use with an E-Bow. In these cases, I have the pad switched on (via the Snapshots). That was a 'eureka moment' when I discovered I could toggle the Pad in the Snapshots.

These debates about 'sonic accuracy' always make me chuckle. Analogue components age over time and fail, sooner or later, and some of that aging alters how the gear sounds. My 'real world rig' is now 30 years old. The valves, especially the pre-amp valves, have been changed several times, and every time it happened, even though I used the same brand, they sounded different - because old valves get dull over time. I replaced the speaker units (2x 1x12 closed-backs) five years back, because the original speakers I used failed - they were 20 years old when I got 'em. Replaced 'em with V30s. The V30 models in my PC+s sounded 'close enough' to them, four years ago, and I'm happy with that. However, the five individual speakers involved are now 4 years older, as are the valves in the analogue setup. The digital models don't age. The speakers and the electronics do and how that affects the sound... who knows?

That's normal. As long as the display says <edited> and the ring colour changed, assuming you changed speaker model, it's all good.

Hmmm. In front of a clean amp, not a problem. Back in the dark ages, I used to have to run my delay in front of my (OD'd) amp... not fun. As soon as I could afford it, that amp was gone, in favour of an amp with an effects loop. I never use reverb anyway, so that was never a consideration. Never looked back. You can 'get away with' having delays in front of a dirty amp - low feedback/fast decay, but... Reverbs, though? NO! Just NO!

It's in the delays section on the Helix. A while ago, I wrote presets that emulate the sound of a guitarist famous for using multitap echoes and an AC30 ;) I'd done this on other units over the past 15 years, anyway, a friend of mine wanted a set of patches for his POD Go. He'd used my patches before on his Zoom G3. I'd found I got the best results on the Helix by using multiple instances of the Simple Delay, with a parametric EQ in front... This isn't possible on the POD Go, so I had to compromise and use the Multitap 4 - not enough control over the individual taps for my liking. So, I used the Parametric EQ to get the pre-amp curves for the specific units 'the guitarist' used, then in to the Multitap 4 - in my case, the delay time was typically around 600ms, with the taps ranging upwards from 100ms. The HPF & LPF take care of replicating a psuedo tape decay sound. I don't particularly like Wow & Flutter, but IIRC, I think I found setting the rate around 3-5 and depth around 3.0 gave me results that were 'authentic' to the requirements, but like I say, I don't really care for it.

I 'bluff it' using the vibrato settings in the 'Multitap 4'.

I do whatever suits what I'm playing best. FWIW, I'm Helix Floor>PC+ via L6 Link. I prefer to use 'Speaker' mode, and I have tweeked some of the PC's global settings on the advice of a couple of the veteran experts, though I couldn't tell you off the top of my head the exact numbers. I'm probably less fussy and I almost certainly use less effects than most - one of my presets only has an amp module. I'm just trying to get a great sound rather than match someone else's sound or reinvent the wheel. "The tone's are in there, you just have to know how to get them out."

Turn the amp up. A hollowbody is an acoustic guitar. They originally put pickups on, because they couldn't hear them over the rest of the band. You need the amp loud enough that you can't hear the guitar's acoustic sound over the amp, otherwise you're just wasting your time. After that, it's the same as dialling in any other electric guitar patch.

As an amateur nobody, I've found that the internet is overflowing with people pretending to be something they're, clearly, not.

My solution for the last 40 years was 'this is my gear and this is how I sound. I'm not a tribute act.' Take it or leave it.

Probably temperature related. Stuff expands and contracts with temperature changes, and different materials do it at different rates. Doesn't need to be much temp. change. Otherwise, the exorcism sounds like a plan.

Off the top of my head... there's a procedure to start the Helix in a sort of 'recovery' mode. Can't remember the details, but have a trawl through the threads where people have had problems updating - should see them within the first couple of pages of the Helix forum, as there was a big update recently. Look for either 'datacommando' or 'rd2rk' advice posts. Also, if you haven't tried it, already, download 'Line 6 Updater' and try that. It's one of those things that tends to find your Helix when HX Edit doesn't... no promises, but stay calm, the solution is in one of the 'update failure' threads.

Depends whether you want 'simple', plug in, turn up and go, or to spend a bit of time tweaking and fine tuning... I own both versions of the Powercab Plus and they can both get f***ing loud, BUT there's some faffing around to be done to get the best from them. Alternatively, you could buy a good 'ole, high wattage power amp of some description and an appropriate 2x12 cab. and away you go. No guarantees one will sound better than the other - "the tone is in there, you just gotta know how to get it out".

My own experience... I have a dedicated desktop w/FR18i20 and a laptop w/Steinberg UR22C. In theory the USB should give the best sound quality, because of the afore mentioned A/D, D/A conversions. In practise, I found it less hassle/quicker to just use the analogue outs in to my interface, again, because of the afore mentioned hearing scenarios - ie. only a bat will hear the difference. The dedicated PC... it's just too much work to rearrange the setup for the sake of something I can't hear. I tried the SPDIF outputs, but gave up as I couldn't get the clocks to sync up. Regarding DIs etc, both units have enough ins, outs and routing options for it not to matter, in my case. The laptop... in this scenario, I like to use the minimum amount of cabling, so the Helix, with headphones makes a lot of sense. However, I've only ever used the audio outs here, as well, as the laptop is setup for the UR22C and I didn't have the time or inclination to set it up for the Helix, as an interface. The sound quality exceeds my hearing quality. I used direct monitoring from my interface, so latency wasn't an issue. With Line 6 and Steinberg both being owned by Yamaha, I wouldn't be in the least bit surprised if they used the same converters and related circuitry in their interfaces, and I've been very impressed with the sound coming out of my UR22C.

Direct connection or via a hub? The Helix is USB2. USB2-USB3 can be temperamental, despite the compatibility claims, especially when you introduce a third party USB hub. Advice I was given a few years ago was to make sure my music gear was connected direct and not via a USB hub whenever possible.