somebodyelse

Absolutely. The moral of the story is 'learn your gear properly, before writing it off'. I've had my Helix 3 or 4 years and only found I could do this on Thursday.

Old thread, nevertheless... Usually play with the pad off, however, I have a couple of presets, where I have a few Snapshots set up specifically for use with an E-Bow. In these cases, I have the pad switched on (via the Snapshots). That was a 'eureka moment' when I discovered I could toggle the Pad in the Snapshots.

Only had mine four years, from new. No issues at all, apart from screwing up it's first firmware update, five minutes after first switch on. One cigarette, a coffee and a reboot later, it sorted itself out. Only useful advice I have is put the work in and you'll be rewarded. I'm still learning new tricks after four and a half years.

These debates about 'sonic accuracy' always make me chuckle. Analogue components age over time and fail, sooner or later, and some of that aging alters how the gear sounds. My 'real world rig' is now 30 years old. The valves, especially the pre-amp valves, have been changed several times, and every time it happened, even though I used the same brand, they sounded different - because old valves get dull over time. I replaced the speaker units (2x 1x12 closed-backs) five years back, because the original speakers I used failed - they were 20 years old when I got 'em. Replaced 'em with V30s. The V30 models in my PC+s sounded 'close enough' to them, four years ago, and I'm happy with that. However, the five individual speakers involved are now 4 years older, as are the valves in the analogue setup. The digital models don't age. The speakers and the electronics do and how that affects the sound... who knows?

That's normal. As long as the display says <edited> and the ring colour changed, assuming you changed speaker model, it's all good.

Hmmm. In front of a clean amp, not a problem. Back in the dark ages, I used to have to run my delay in front of my (OD'd) amp... not fun. As soon as I could afford it, that amp was gone, in favour of an amp with an effects loop. I never use reverb anyway, so that was never a consideration. Never looked back. You can 'get away with' having delays in front of a dirty amp - low feedback/fast decay, but... Reverbs, though? NO! Just NO!

It's in the delays section on the Helix. A while ago, I wrote presets that emulate the sound of a guitarist famous for using multitap echoes and an AC30 ;) I'd done this on other units over the past 15 years, anyway, a friend of mine wanted a set of patches for his POD Go. He'd used my patches before on his Zoom G3. I'd found I got the best results on the Helix by using multiple instances of the Simple Delay, with a parametric EQ in front... This isn't possible on the POD Go, so I had to compromise and use the Multitap 4 - not enough control over the individual taps for my liking. So, I used the Parametric EQ to get the pre-amp curves for the specific units 'the guitarist' used, then in to the Multitap 4 - in my case, the delay time was typically around 600ms, with the taps ranging upwards from 100ms. The HPF & LPF take care of replicating a psuedo tape decay sound. I don't particularly like Wow & Flutter, but IIRC, I think I found setting the rate around 3-5 and depth around 3.0 gave me results that were 'authentic' to the requirements, but like I say, I don't really care for it.

I 'bluff it' using the vibrato settings in the 'Multitap 4'.

I do whatever suits what I'm playing best. FWIW, I'm Helix Floor>PC+ via L6 Link. I prefer to use 'Speaker' mode, and I have tweeked some of the PC's global settings on the advice of a couple of the veteran experts, though I couldn't tell you off the top of my head the exact numbers. I'm probably less fussy and I almost certainly use less effects than most - one of my presets only has an amp module. I'm just trying to get a great sound rather than match someone else's sound or reinvent the wheel. "The tone's are in there, you just have to know how to get them out."

Turn the amp up. A hollowbody is an acoustic guitar. They originally put pickups on, because they couldn't hear them over the rest of the band. You need the amp loud enough that you can't hear the guitar's acoustic sound over the amp, otherwise you're just wasting your time. After that, it's the same as dialling in any other electric guitar patch.

As an amateur nobody, I've found that the internet is overflowing with people pretending to be something they're, clearly, not.

My solution for the last 40 years was 'this is my gear and this is how I sound. I'm not a tribute act.' Take it or leave it.

Probably temperature related. Stuff expands and contracts with temperature changes, and different materials do it at different rates. Doesn't need to be much temp. change. Otherwise, the exorcism sounds like a plan.

Off the top of my head... there's a procedure to start the Helix in a sort of 'recovery' mode. Can't remember the details, but have a trawl through the threads where people have had problems updating - should see them within the first couple of pages of the Helix forum, as there was a big update recently. Look for either 'datacommando' or 'rd2rk' advice posts. Also, if you haven't tried it, already, download 'Line 6 Updater' and try that. It's one of those things that tends to find your Helix when HX Edit doesn't... no promises, but stay calm, the solution is in one of the 'update failure' threads.

Depends whether you want 'simple', plug in, turn up and go, or to spend a bit of time tweaking and fine tuning... I own both versions of the Powercab Plus and they can both get f***ing loud, BUT there's some faffing around to be done to get the best from them. Alternatively, you could buy a good 'ole, high wattage power amp of some description and an appropriate 2x12 cab. and away you go. No guarantees one will sound better than the other - "the tone is in there, you just gotta know how to get it out".

My own experience... I have a dedicated desktop w/FR18i20 and a laptop w/Steinberg UR22C. In theory the USB should give the best sound quality, because of the afore mentioned A/D, D/A conversions. In practise, I found it less hassle/quicker to just use the analogue outs in to my interface, again, because of the afore mentioned hearing scenarios - ie. only a bat will hear the difference. The dedicated PC... it's just too much work to rearrange the setup for the sake of something I can't hear. I tried the SPDIF outputs, but gave up as I couldn't get the clocks to sync up. Regarding DIs etc, both units have enough ins, outs and routing options for it not to matter, in my case. The laptop... in this scenario, I like to use the minimum amount of cabling, so the Helix, with headphones makes a lot of sense. However, I've only ever used the audio outs here, as well, as the laptop is setup for the UR22C and I didn't have the time or inclination to set it up for the Helix, as an interface. The sound quality exceeds my hearing quality. I used direct monitoring from my interface, so latency wasn't an issue. With Line 6 and Steinberg both being owned by Yamaha, I wouldn't be in the least bit surprised if they used the same converters and related circuitry in their interfaces, and I've been very impressed with the sound coming out of my UR22C.

Direct connection or via a hub? The Helix is USB2. USB2-USB3 can be temperamental, despite the compatibility claims, especially when you introduce a third party USB hub. Advice I was given a few years ago was to make sure my music gear was connected direct and not via a USB hub whenever possible.

When you did the restore, you should have 'unticked' the line with the Factory Presets. As far as I know, the only way, would be to go back and reinstall the 3.70 update (via Line 6 Updater), do the usual factory reset and then restore from your backup with the 'Factory Presets' unticked. FWIW. I'm in the 'if it ain't broken' camp, so I would be inclined to just leave it alone and get on with life. Sod's Law of averages says that this will be the occasion where the USB cable fails or the internet coughs or some other gremlin will happen that has you back here trying to fathom out why your Helix won't work.

Of course it isn't. Take a look at the power rating of your computer's power supply. I'd estimate 200 of those watts are devoted to 'the computing'. 'Watts' is a unit of power consumption, not loudness.

I think, you have to update to v2.80, first, then v3.15 and then it can be updated straight to the latest version(?). My advice, read and follow the instructions VERY carefully - I'm pretty sure it mentions about pre-v2.80 in there. As the other guys have said, do a full backups before you start.

They sound no less AITR than any other FRFR speaker. I have both PC+ models. In FRFR modes, no it doesn't sound like an AITR, nor do any other FRFR systems... sorry, they don't. Argue all day, but they don't. In speaker mode, they'll never sound like the AITR you're hoping for, because of basic physics. The cabs are not the same shape/dimensions as the models on the Helix and you can't get a 4x12 feel from a 1x12 cabinet. After that, it depends on how you set your patches up - if you use a sh*tload of pedals in front of a valve combo, there comes a point where it stops sounding like an amp in the room, too.

If it means that much to you - Inkjet printer, ream of A4, several spare cartridges... My Grandfather used to own a printing business... I'd be willing to bet that it'd be cheaper to 'do it yourself' than what would be a reasonable retail price for a professionally produced book - even if you don't own an inkjet printer to begin with. Last time I had some pdfs printed out at a local print service, it was something like 12p per page. That'd be about £55 ($67 US) for just an A4 paper print. If you want an idea of how much you'd have to pay for it in a book format, get on Amazon and look up Burst Believers or the PAF Myths & Reality books, and bare in mind they don't have 450+ pages.

No apology necessary... I don't translate my posts in to other languages. In my experience, most native English speakers don't speak English well enough for a translation app to be able to make any sense of what they say, anyway. The important thing is the OP understands the post and manages to sort their problem out.

Thank Eric for Google translate... If @PerS recommendation didn't restore things, I have a 212+ that I'd be happy to send you a copy of the factory presets from. Let me know. Cheers

^What he said. I did it the opposite way round - bought a 112+ and then got a 212+ a couple of years later - earlier this year, as it happens. On both occasions, I got them when the store was doing an incredible deal on them, and I'm in the 'I love 'em' camp. The lack of bug fix updates over the last couple of years is annoying, although I don't experience the issues with 'em that others have. If/when a 'new improved' version is released I probably will trade them in, though I don't see me getting a 1x12 AND a 2x12, next time.