somebodyelse

First thing is make sure both have the latest firmware. Unless you already updated, it's almost certain they don't have the current versions,. The Powercab doesn't seem to ship with firmware that is setup for L6/AES. After that, I believe the screen not responding to external control is normal - the settings will still change.

Careful what you wish for. When you start using LFOs to control parameter in other effects, DSP usage goes through the roof.

I'm glad you got it sorted. The Line 6 download page is a POS to be brutally honest. It doesn't matter which product or operating system you specify, ir still offers a lollipopload of downloads that aren't relevant to you. Look on the bright side. I bought a POD 2.0 twenty years back. Came with a great editor based on Emajic software - I think they were something to do with Logic. After a couple of years, Apple bought them - end of updates. When the next version of Windows came out, game over. Line 6 came up with a replacement editor that didn't work... it's still there on the downloads page.

Yeah, that's what I thought. I've only had mine just over a month and haven't had chance to play around with the softwares beyond updating firmwares... I was under the impression that Native patches could be transferred to the Helix, not necessarily that it directly altered setting in realtime... which is why I'd have used Edit, anyway, in his shoes...

Yes, just make sure your Helix outputs are set to line level. Using Native for editing... you might need to change settings on there to stop it outputting audio through USB. For ease of editing without the audio complications, you might be better using HX Edit on the PC for these occasions.

Try an old tape echo unit, they all do that, and not by design. My old early 90s rack fx can do it,,, that's progress for ya.

First thought is, is the Powercab input set to line level in the global settings and/or is the output from the interface line level?... Shorter way to put it would be are the two 'level matched'? Whether that'll cure a lack of low end... it's a necessary starting point though.

Hiya. First, yer welcome. Sorry, it's taken so long to reply. Best thing to download for the update is the Line 6 Updater. You only need the other stuff if you want to carry out editting from your computer, and the driver is included with them. The driver and firmware downloads are probably a better option if you live in an area with unstable or slow internet connections, where it would be safer to do a firmware update manually. Otherwise, I would use the automatic Line 6 Updater. As for the 'accepting terms' tickbox... I'm not a lot of use -I'm sight impaired. Suffice to say, I DID install Powercab Edit and Line 6 Updater by myself, so it couldn't have been that hard to find. At the risk of asking stupid questions, are you sure it's not two 'buttons' with the options 'Accept' or 'Reject'. Some use tickboxes, some just put in on the 'OK' button?

I used the one that came with my Helix. Think it's called an A to B cable? I have a few of 'em, same as my scanner cable, MIDI keyboard cable, Faderport cable, various other PC connectable fx units, my audio interface cable... same as the one in your picture. I'm surprised you don't already use one for another piece of gear.

@ David. Though I haven't tried it out yet, myself, my understanding is that the Powercab+ must be updated to firmware v2.00. I bought mine and a Helix just over a month ago, brand new and new in stock to the store, and neither were loaded with the latest firmware.

They already do it. It's called a 'phaser'. THE most natural way to create chorus is to record the part a second time. In the extremely unlikely event you do it exactly the same as the first time, make a slight EQ change, a slight pitch change and add a slight delay... which is what a chorus pedal does. If you're using a chorus pedal and it doesn't sound "natural", try turning the knobs down.

You're basically after emulating latency... If you're on Reaper, take the two 'ms' numbers at the top right of the window and add em together. That's the starting point for your delay time. Otherwise, start around 20ms and adjust to taste, somewhere between 20-40ms will probably work. Single repeat and a mix level approaching 100%/0dB - again adjust to taste. Alternatively, method I've been using since the 80s is a +30 cents pitch shift at a 30% mix level.

Cool. No issues with MS AV, but AVG were involved in a bit of strife a few years ago when they released an AV for Windows phones. For reasons I don't understand, it turns out AV is unnecessary on Windows phone OS, which is why no one does one. Turned out the AVG app was basically data mining. AVG was never that good an AV anyway and it's owned by Avast. When Avast bought CCleaner a few years back, I, or more to the point, my AV, found it started installing all sorts of adware at the same time.

Glad you sorted it. FWIW, I've been using Kaspersky Total, and Internet Security since 2007. Never let me down. Funnily enough, a kid on the Reaper forum posted a similar issue, just after I read this... I gave him all the above pointers... not heard back, I'd be surprised if it wasn't a similar cause. You clearly know yer stuff, but for the benefit of innocent bystanders, I'd steer clear of Avast and AVG and also the once reputable CCleaner.

They also have different cabs, which will make the biggest difference overall - unless they literally did just glue two 112+s together; Alot depends in what the inside of the cab looks like, especially in a closed back cab. I very much doubt Yamaha/Line 6 did any research in to it and just quoted same specs to cover their a***es - nobody's gonna complain if it sounds better.

Bottom E on a guitar is about 89Hz, the 112 and 212 use the same speaker, so it'll be 70Hz on the low end, too. Bottom E on a bass is about 45Hz...

Only just saw this thread. I was going to chime in about checking for viruses and then lecture you about free AV not being worth the money, especially Avast/AVG... Sounds like you're on top of it. I'd recommend Malwarebytes for tracking down the malware. I'd be inclined to start backtracking on any free VSTs you've added recently... basically any free software you've added recently. Bitdefender is one of the good guys, so it's likely you've introduced the virus via software install or attachment download.

You're not getting it. You CANNOT EQ a digital signal stream. If you want to EQ the audio, you HAVE TO either use DSP and do it within patches OR do it AFTER the digital to audio conversion. ANYTHING AND EVERYTHING you do to a digital signal uses Digital Signal Processing - DSP. IF you're using a Powercab, you can EQ it at the Powercab side, uaing IT'S DSP and saving a little DSP at the Helix side. It's not a problem. It's not "patchable". It's like asking for dehydrated water.

My suspicion is that the Global EQ is applied 'post DA conversion', hence only being applied to analogue outs. You can't actually 'EQ' the digital output signal, simply because it's not an audio signal. It's a digital stream of patch information... it'd be as pointless as EQing a fax machine output. Making the digital output level higher doesn't make the audio louder, either. I've used the analogy in other threads... your analogue outs are like talking on your phone. The digital outs are like sending the conversation by email. No matter how hard you hit the keyboard, the writing looks the same at the other end...If you want to imply a mood, you have to include that information within the email/patch.

Directly from one unit to another? Dunno, but via HX Edit would be no different to if you bought patches and IRs off the net.

You're sending a digital code down a wire, NOT an audio signal. It doesn't pass through DA converters, and is strong enough to carry over several hundred feet. Increasing it's signal level would only make the digital signal capable of travelling further, not louder. The 'loudness' information is carried within the code, so you have to change that coded info per patch. I suspect the 'digital' global settiings only apply to SPDIF, in order to boost the signal level over longer cable runs, since they're unbalanced cables, low voltage and probably prone to signal degradation even over relatively short lengths. I very much doubt they actually affect the 'loudness' of the audio. The 'L6 Link' IS an AES/EBU signal.

No, it's not an anomaly. The difference between a digital signal and an analogue signal is like the difference between sending an email and making a phone call.

I'd just stick with Reaper.

Yes and no... ebfore I relate my experience, what guitar are you using? I'm not a Helix user, yet - still mulling it over. My 'rig' is Mesa Triaxis based rack setup. I usually play a custom made ESP HSS Strat-a-like through it. Despite the gear appearance, I'm NOT a metal player, I can assure you. I roll between clean to bluesy levels of OD, I guess and as you should expect with the amount of dough spent, it sounds incredible. Now, I'm not getting any younger and I don't play 'the rig' at home. A few months back, I 'treated' myself to an Epiphone Dot. Yeah, it's cheap, but it plays well and I can't really justify a couple of grand for the real thing, just for home. I play it through a Vox AC4TV and it sounds pleasant enough. It's had pots and caps, picikup adjustments and improved massively. New pickups made a slight difference... Anyhoo, speaker went in one of 'Deep Thought's' cabs a few weeks back, so decided it was time for a change in them and bought a pair of V30s. Installed, in my living room, connected everything up and grabbed the nearest guitar - the Epi... Hells Teeth!!! That thing sounds devastating. Moral of the story, if your guitar sounds 'Meh', don't waste money on pickups. Get a better amp. Another one, FWIW, I use a 'well known amp simulation plugin' in my DAW and get a really good bass sound by feeding the DI through an 'AC30' with a 'EL34' power stage and a 4x15 cab - an approximation of an AC50, I think.

Don't know. You need to read the respective manuals, all of which are available online. IF the LT has a MIDI out AND the switching outputs on the controller are the same config as the Boogie (I expect they will be), then yeah, it'll do the job. FWIW. I use a Voodoo MIDI controller to control a Mesa Triaxis based rack. The instruction manual for that product references the Triaxis a few times, which suggests they work towards making their gear compatible with Mesa products. I've read that someone is using one with a Dual Rectum Frier, so the Mesa side of things is fine. It's just down to whether the Helix LT has MIDI out.