somebodyelse

Yeah, I have the same problem - and it's not just Line 6. I just don't seem to be able to break my gear. Can't get Windows 10 to crash. My latency is fantastic. My obscenely expensive Les Paul is perfect. What am I doing wrong?

Okay, thanks for the info. Most likely needs the chip reflashing directly, outside of the unit?

Has anyone here ever opened one of these up? If I was in this situation AND out of the warranty period, I'd be in there, sniffing around - literally - for failed components. Something that would occur to me, assuming there's one in there, would be to remove the battery that is usually present for patch memory retention and give it ten minutes to lose it's memory. Then stick the battery back in. Not saying this will make any difference, but it may just be enough to force the unit to do a factory reset? Just a thought.

Seems various people have had various issues. Bottom line is it's always been operator error, sort of. The update seems to have defaulted a few global settings and so on, BUT they DO warn everyone to do a backup in the instructions. Being new to the Helix, I did do this and restoring my backup after update, all was well.... Except the Powercab setting in HX Edit when you use L6 Link got defaulted... If you backed up before updating, do the restore and then go check all the global settings are where you want 'em.

Thanks for the quick responce. Just wanted to check, before I spent an afternoon scratching my head, sweaing and chain smoking chasing a unicorn :) To be honest, I wasn't expecting it to be doable. Thanks again.

... control two parameters/modules with one expression pedal simultaneously within a preset? I'm looking to emulate the Dearmond 610 using a volume and EQ filter... unless they modelled it and I've not seen it. Cheers. EDIT: I'm using a Helix floor, by the way.

Been gigging a "stereo" rackmount system since the early 90s. Two things. If exactly the same thing is coming out of both sides, it's mono. The other thing. Speaker placement is such a PITA that unless you have em side by side, you get phasing. In a room that size, unless the walls are padded, I'd stick with a single cab, as all the reflections flying around... you'll be lucky if you could get a decent sound out of it. "Stereo's" good for recording, but it's a PITA live, without a PA and big room.

Nah, when you need to mess with settings, plug it in to HX Edit. You don't need the screen to play it.

In addition to what rd2rk says, you must have the latest firmware on both the Helix and Powercab for the L6 link to work - it doesn't work below specific firmware versions. Don't assume they ship with the latest firmware versions. The other thing, the Powercab display doesn't change when using the L6 Link, but that doesn't mean nothing happens. The coloured ring on the controls does change colour, to indicate a speaker change.

You've tried rebooting the laptop, right? Just checked mine - in Device Manager, it shows under Audio Inputs/Outputs as Digital Audio Interface and Speakers. Under Line 6 as Helix Floor. Under Sound, Video and Games Controllers as Line 6 Helix. Unplugged mine, reconnected fine, though, I didn't have any of the associated software open. Usual advice really, switch everything off and back on again. Helix shouldn't suffer, unless in the middle of data transfer. USB driver might be affected - I'm getting similar issues with a Steinberg UR22C,,, both use Yamaha drivers. Maybe try reinstalling driver? Other than that, disabled USB Port suspend - Google/Youtube for instruction. Good luck.

I have a 112+. Only reason I didn't get the 212 was I don't have the space. From what I found out whilst mulling it over, you CAN set the speakers to separate speaker emulations - I was especially interested in this feature. I'm fairly certain you can send left signal to left speaker... etc, so it should be possible to send one amp to one side, the other to the other - just a matter of how you route your patch and which connection method you use between the Helix and PC212. Jason Sadites has a Youtube channel and probably covers it in a video somewhere. Other Helix dedicated channels are available.

First thing is make sure both have the latest firmware. Unless you already updated, it's almost certain they don't have the current versions,. The Powercab doesn't seem to ship with firmware that is setup for L6/AES. After that, I believe the screen not responding to external control is normal - the settings will still change.

Careful what you wish for. When you start using LFOs to control parameter in other effects, DSP usage goes through the roof.

I'm glad you got it sorted. The Line 6 download page is a POS to be brutally honest. It doesn't matter which product or operating system you specify, ir still offers a lollipopload of downloads that aren't relevant to you. Look on the bright side. I bought a POD 2.0 twenty years back. Came with a great editor based on Emajic software - I think they were something to do with Logic. After a couple of years, Apple bought them - end of updates. When the next version of Windows came out, game over. Line 6 came up with a replacement editor that didn't work... it's still there on the downloads page.

Yeah, that's what I thought. I've only had mine just over a month and haven't had chance to play around with the softwares beyond updating firmwares... I was under the impression that Native patches could be transferred to the Helix, not necessarily that it directly altered setting in realtime... which is why I'd have used Edit, anyway, in his shoes...

Yes, just make sure your Helix outputs are set to line level. Using Native for editing... you might need to change settings on there to stop it outputting audio through USB. For ease of editing without the audio complications, you might be better using HX Edit on the PC for these occasions.

Try an old tape echo unit, they all do that, and not by design. My old early 90s rack fx can do it,,, that's progress for ya.

First thought is, is the Powercab input set to line level in the global settings and/or is the output from the interface line level?... Shorter way to put it would be are the two 'level matched'? Whether that'll cure a lack of low end... it's a necessary starting point though.

Hiya. First, yer welcome. Sorry, it's taken so long to reply. Best thing to download for the update is the Line 6 Updater. You only need the other stuff if you want to carry out editting from your computer, and the driver is included with them. The driver and firmware downloads are probably a better option if you live in an area with unstable or slow internet connections, where it would be safer to do a firmware update manually. Otherwise, I would use the automatic Line 6 Updater. As for the 'accepting terms' tickbox... I'm not a lot of use -I'm sight impaired. Suffice to say, I DID install Powercab Edit and Line 6 Updater by myself, so it couldn't have been that hard to find. At the risk of asking stupid questions, are you sure it's not two 'buttons' with the options 'Accept' or 'Reject'. Some use tickboxes, some just put in on the 'OK' button?

I used the one that came with my Helix. Think it's called an A to B cable? I have a few of 'em, same as my scanner cable, MIDI keyboard cable, Faderport cable, various other PC connectable fx units, my audio interface cable... same as the one in your picture. I'm surprised you don't already use one for another piece of gear.

@ David. Though I haven't tried it out yet, myself, my understanding is that the Powercab+ must be updated to firmware v2.00. I bought mine and a Helix just over a month ago, brand new and new in stock to the store, and neither were loaded with the latest firmware.

They already do it. It's called a 'phaser'. THE most natural way to create chorus is to record the part a second time. In the extremely unlikely event you do it exactly the same as the first time, make a slight EQ change, a slight pitch change and add a slight delay... which is what a chorus pedal does. If you're using a chorus pedal and it doesn't sound "natural", try turning the knobs down.

You're basically after emulating latency... If you're on Reaper, take the two 'ms' numbers at the top right of the window and add em together. That's the starting point for your delay time. Otherwise, start around 20ms and adjust to taste, somewhere between 20-40ms will probably work. Single repeat and a mix level approaching 100%/0dB - again adjust to taste. Alternatively, method I've been using since the 80s is a +30 cents pitch shift at a 30% mix level.

Cool. No issues with MS AV, but AVG were involved in a bit of strife a few years ago when they released an AV for Windows phones. For reasons I don't understand, it turns out AV is unnecessary on Windows phone OS, which is why no one does one. Turned out the AVG app was basically data mining. AVG was never that good an AV anyway and it's owned by Avast. When Avast bought CCleaner a few years back, I, or more to the point, my AV, found it started installing all sorts of adware at the same time.

Glad you sorted it. FWIW, I've been using Kaspersky Total, and Internet Security since 2007. Never let me down. Funnily enough, a kid on the Reaper forum posted a similar issue, just after I read this... I gave him all the above pointers... not heard back, I'd be surprised if it wasn't a similar cause. You clearly know yer stuff, but for the benefit of innocent bystanders, I'd steer clear of Avast and AVG and also the once reputable CCleaner.