somebodyelse

Hiya, I posted on your thread in the POD Go forum. Once you get used to all the in/outs, you'll probably find you're able to set it up so that you can have it plugged in to both inputs and choose which output to direct the signal too - like having channel switching. I've been a Helix Floor user for nearly five years. My advice: don't expect to be an expert in five minutes. Work at it. Give it time. Learn the unit, properly. Get familiar with the manual. Make use of HX Edit. I'm five years in and I'm still finding new tricks with it. These things do sound spectacular - there are enough videos out there of people making them sound great. If/when it doesn't, it's you, not the unit. Once you accept that, it gets easier - been there, believe me. 'The tones are in there, you just have to learn how to get them out'

Well, the v3.50 update made the Helix run more efficiently, hence the improved cab modelling and increased mic placement adjustment. I've had my Helix nearly 5 years, since v2.80. and got a POD Go last week. Only had two updates go sideways. First one was the very first one I did on the Helix and was user error. I fixed it within 20 minutes. Haven't had an issue since. Second one one was two days ago on the POD Go, when I deliberately 'bricked it', in order to try an help out a couple of guys on here. I had it up and running again within half an hour. Having read all the 'Update failure' threads over the past 5 years, the causes of the failures are always an iffy USB cable, software running in the background or USB port settings. Otherwise, if you do your updates through Helix/POD Go Edit (and actually read the instructions), and NOT the L6 Updater, it's fool-proof. You CAN revert to previous firmware versions and reinstall a backup - you DO back it up occasionally? - if you run in to a bug. Top tip: Don't delete old back ups... Like the other guy said, no one ever posts when nothing goes wrong - there are a few hundred thousand Helixes on the go, and probably less than a hundred threads about update failures.

I guess, you'd need to find out what make/model the screen is. Then, assuming you have the skills, it'd just be a case of ordering one and soldering it in? Could be worth asking Line 6 about it. They might offer to fix it.

You're welcome. Experience with the Helix has taught me that Line 6 makes these things to be recoverable by the user, if a firmware update gets interrupted. There are plenty of similar threads on the Helix board every time there's an update - same symptoms, same causes, same cures. It's important to look after the USB cable. I'm still using my original cable with my Helix. A broken cable will cause problems. USB cables are not like guitar cables. They're fragile. With Windows, 'USB Suspend' can be a problem. It's a setting for energy saving which will go round checking for and switching off unused USB ports. It's a notorious cause of problems when recording on a PC, so is the first thing you go and disable. It can also be the reason for failed firmware updates. I hear Spotify and similar apps can cause problems, too. I've only ever used those on my mobile phone, so... Glad you got it sorted.

The display dims after a couple of seconds of inactivity. There's a setting for changing how long it stays lit. Be sure this isn't 'the issue' before you dismantle it.

Sorry for the late reply. Long time Helix user, just bought a POD Go last week... ... anyway, saw a guy having a similar issue with his PG a couple of days back. This morning, had time on my hands...long story short, I 'bricked' my POD G, to see how to fix it. What I ended up doing was installing an older version of the firmware and then updating it from there. Two things that are important are a good USB cable and if you're on Windows, you have the screensaver, sleep mode and USB suspend settings disabled. Since you probably don't know what version firmware it was on, I'd suggest downloading version 1.40 - that's what mine came with new on Thursday. I assume you already installed POD Go Edit, the drivers and L6 Updater and have registered with Line 6? Download the firmware version 1.40 from the Line 6 website. Plug the POD Go in to your computer. Open L6 Updater in 'Offline Mode'. On the POD Go, hold down the 'Page>' button while switching on the unit - keep it held down for about 10 seconds after you switch on, since you might not get any indication of anything on the screen. Select the POD Go from the list, then 'choose file', then 'install'. Assuming this installs successfully, close L6 Updater, and perform a factory reset on the POD Go. Next step is to update to the latest firmware. Open POD Go Edit and carefully follow the instructions. It takes about 25 minutes for it to update from v1.40 to the latest version. This is why it's important that the cable is in good shape, and why screensavers, sleep mode and USB suspend are switched off. Really hope you got it sorted earlier than this, but if not... give the above a try.

Okidoki... Further to my previous post, this morning, having completed writing my presets, and doing a backup, I thought I'd try 'bricking' the POD Go 'for a laugh'... er research purposes. So, I downloaded ALL the firmware versions to my laptop. Plugged the POD Go in, started up the L6 Updater in offline mode and installed the firmware version that mine arrived with on Thursday - v1.40, in this case. Did the factory reset procedure at the end. Then, I opened up L6 Updater again, logged in and started the update process to the latest firmware version. Halfway through, I pulled the USB cable out... Mission accomplished - POD Go stalls when trying to boot. Right, how to fix it? Tried to boot in to 'Update Mode' - check. The screen was 'white-out', but the L6 Updater recognised it was in 'Update Mode'. Groovy. Tried to install v2.01 firmware. Not having it - getting error message. Tried POD Go Edit. It was saying 'No updates found'. Okay. Let's try re-installing an older firmware, then. L6 Updater, in 'Offline Mode', POD Go in 'Update Mode'. Bingo. Successfully installed from the file on my laptop. Do the customary 'Factory Reset'. All good. Next up, v2.01. Opened POD Go Edit. Follow the instructions. Installed successfully. Factory reset, restore backup. Happy bunny. Can't promise this'll work for you, however - This was a brand new unit on Thursday, so the USB cable should be sound. I'm on Windows 10 with screensaver, sleep mode and USB suspend settings disabled. Also, since the POD Go was having an issue, when you switch it on with one of the switches/buttons held down, you won't necessarily see whether it entered that mode on the POD Go's screen. Hold the button down while switching on and keep it held for about 10 seconds. The update from v1.40 to v2.01 took about 25 minutes, by the way.

If it were me, yes, I'd have gone the HX Effects route in the first place.

Hmmm? I got one on Thursday. Being a Helix owner for four years, I'm used to the 'Line 6 way'. First thing I did, before even opening the box was installing POD Go Edit. Plugged the POD Go in to the laptop, switched it on, opened up POD Go Edit and followed the prompts - didn't do anything to the lappie; no switching off programs, etc. etc. Everything worked without a hitch. Then did the factory reset, as is usual when updating the Helix... all good. Okay, that doesn't get you out of your hole... When I first got the Helix, years ago, just after the v3.0 update happened, I knew it would need updating. I plugged it in and made the mistake of going through the Line 6 Updater, initially. It ended up crashing my PC halfway through, update didn't complete, etc. So, after a quick smoke and a coffee, I rebooted the PC, switched the Helix off. Plugged in and tried re-installing the firmware from the L6 Updater. Luckily, this worked fine, this time. One thing I noticed when I started the POD Go firmware update, via PG Edit, was that it downloaded the firmware file to save on my PC, just in case something went wrong. I'm assuming the L6 Updater doesn't do that (?). So, first thing I would do is go to the L6 Downloads page and download the firmware file for the POD Go. Then I would open L6 Updater, in 'Offline Mode' assuming it detects your POD Go, I would install the firmware file from your computer, rather than from the internet. I think you would need to put the POD Go in 'update mode' - Hope this helps. Keep checking back, the real experts will be along soon.

Got a used PG incoming, but having read the manual, and previously owned an AC15, plug the 'Amp Out' in to whichever input you prefer on the AC15 and just switch off the amp and cab models on the PG - unfortunately, you'll have to do this on a preset by preset basis. Unless something changed recently, AC15s don't have an FX loop.

Give it up. The clue is in the name - LF Raw. It's the speaker with no fluff, no EQ, no tweeter, nothing. You're playing your Helix/whatever straight in to a Class D amp with a speaker. You're actually hearing what the Powercab sounds like. There's no logic in EQ'ing a speaker sim to sound like the speaker with no speaker sim, when they actually provided it for you - it's like adding a body kit to an MR2 to make it look like a Ferrari and then adding another body kit over the top of it to make it look like an MR2

I suppose the title says it all? Is it possible to do channel changing via the amp switching jack, is the gist of it. The effects switching is really redundant since the HX would be the way to go with this combination. I get that if the CX100 was used instead of the CX60, I could use MIDI, but I think the size of that amp might be too big for this scenario.

Apologies, I'm going to make some assumptions... First, you should be sending instrument level signal to your 5150. That'll need changing to line level for your FRFR. If it were me, assuming the FRFR has an XLR input, I'd buy an XLR cable and use that output for FRFR (set to line level) and leave the 5150 on whichever output you use for that (at instrument level). Next, I expect you're not using amp & cab blocks in to the 5150? You'll need to add 'em for FRFR - PV Panama would probably be a good starting point. Then, before you go diving in to adding EQs, adjust the amp block's settings - don't assume just setting them like the real thing will give you the same results. It should, but it's not guaranteed. If it were me, I'd copy your '5150' setlist to an empty setlist and add the amp & cab to these presets. This way, I'd have one set of presets for the 5150 and another set for the FRFR. Add the appropriate amp and cab to your first preset, adjust the amp controls until you get it as close as you can. I would almost certainly go to the cab settings and adjust the high and Low cuts to at least 80 Hz and somewhere around 8.0kHz. Experiment with the virtual mic and it's positioning. EVERY TIME YOU MAKE A CHANGE AND GET A POSITIVE RESULT, SAVE THE PRESET. Do this and you can always easily get back when you make things worse. Once you've exhausted the possibilities, got as close as you can... If you were using the same amp settings on the 5150, once you have an amp/cab combination set up the way you like, save it as a favourite and just add it to each preset, rather than keep adding amp and cab and adjusting the settings. Next, if you need to tweek further, you may need to add an EQ and further tweek it. Maybe start simple with the 'Tilt' EQ. Maybe, you'll need more detailed EQ adjustments. If you don't 'play out', you could use the Global EQ settings instead of an EQ block on each preset, BUT you'd need to remember to switch them off when using your '5150' setup. I'd rather use an EQ block, find the ideal settings, save as a favourite and add it to each preset... I strongly recommend getting familiar with the user manual, and subscribing to Jason Sadites youtube channel. Hope I've helped. The real experts will be along soon.

All those people you see walking around with headphones on, staring at their phones. They're not listening to music; they're being told when to breathe in and when to breathe out.

Not for me. I like having to figure things out for myself. It's how I know I'm alive. I'm glad I won't be around in 50 years. I'd hate to have to deal with people who have grown up with AI - ie. 'the hard of thinking'.

Hmm? Teles and 'snappy'? Steel saddles and lower wind pickups are the way to go. Early pickups, pre '53ish were 43AWG/A3/9+k. and the bridge saddles were made of brass. Around then they switched to 42AWG/A5/~6-7k for the bridge pickups. They switched to steel saddles around '56 IIRC. 'Snappy' is often associated with the switch to rosewood boards in '59, but there were other changes which probably contributed more to it. In terms of the blocks... I can get a snappy country-esque tone using just a Boogie Mk4 model with '59 spec' Tele, so you shouldn't have any trouble if you follow the other's advice, but that 'snap' is going to come from the guitar, not the Helix.

You're welcome. The idea behind the 'tempo' setting is that you set it for the tempo of the song the preset is for, and then when you're setting up your delays, they can be set to 'musical intervals', which then syncs your 'echoes' in time with the music. It's feature I've never used - I've been playing over 40 years - simply because I don't play in scenarios where you can guarantee the song will be played at a specific tempo - real life human drummer, no click. I've always set my delays in milliseconds. If you look in the delay control section there's a button 'sync' which when pressed changes... not sure what to - (sorry, I don't actually own a Catalyst), but your delay times can then be set in ms, rather than note intervals.

Check the MIDI settings on the Tonex, too. Try the old MIDI cable. Back in the dark ages (before MIDI), you could get 5 pin DIN cables for audio use. They're not wired the same a a MIDI cable, from what I remember. I'd be stunned if you've been sold one, but you never know. After that I dunno - I've been using a MIDI controlled rack for decades, but other than setting the channels and whether programs start at 000 or 001, it didn't get any deeper than that.

The tempos are different - top right of the window. You're using 'synced' delay times, which are linked to the tempo. On the first one... are you listening for long enough to actually hear the echo...? Otherwise... all looks okay to me. PS; Could also be that your noisegate settings are cutting the echo off.

No.

Also, assuming you're in HX Edit and you're using a mouse wheel, make sure the pointer isn't hovering over any parameters you don't want to adjust...

Yer welcome. Haven't tried it, myself, so I'm only guessing that it'd work.

Export 'em as a setlist and import the setlist in to Native?

Absolutely. I imagine if you went and found my first post on this forum, it was me posting how it'd crashed my PC and wouldn't boot. I think I posted something like, 'I'll give it another go and if it doesn't work, I'll send it back...' then a few minutes later, an 'all good' post. In my case, what happened was, I started the process off, went for a smoke, came back and my PC had a BSOD, so I had no clue what had actually happened. Rebooted the PC, restarted the L6 Updater - at that point, I'd assumed all updating was done through the Updater and tried updating before doing anything else with the unit, straight out of the box... the rest is history, as they say.

Buddy, I don't worry about it... I'm 57 years old, I've been using the same MIDI rack mount setup up for 30 years and I'm still finding out things it can do that I didn't know about. Makes me chuckle when I read posts where people have given up on a piece of gear after a week with it, though.