somebodyelse

This will fix it - Download the latest versions of the POD Go firmware, Line 6 Updater and POD Go Edit. Start your POD Go whilst holding down the 'Page Right' button. Don't worry about the grey screen. Make sure your computer is not running ANY background music streaming crap like Spotify. Make sure your USB cable is in good nick. Plug the POD Go to your computer. Start Line 6 Updater in Offline Mode'. Select POD Go, select 'Update from file' and try re-installing the v2.0 firmware that you downloaded. If it fails to install, download any previous firmware version and repeat the above. When that installs successfully, close the updater, Switch off the POD Go and do the 'Factory reset' startup procedure. Plug the POD Go in, start up POD Go Edit - NOT the Line 6 Updater. FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS. The update will take about half an hour.

Yeah. It's all good. The Line 6 Link was dormant before PC v2.0 and one of the Helix ones - v2.80, I think. Regarding the PC display. The Helix changes the settings (temporarily) in whatever preset is selected on the PC - the settings are saved and sent from the Helix. If you actually want it to change presets, then you'd have to use MIDI down a MIDI cable, but unless I'm missing something, you won't actually gain anything. You could edit and save presets on the Powercab itself, and use MIDI to switch them, but you'd only benefit from it, if you were programming other units to change the presets. If you're only using a Helix, it's just programming for the sake of it.

First, did you update the Helix, this week? Did you back it up, beforehand? Did you do a factory reset and backup restore afterwards? If you did the first, you needed to do the other two steps - that could be why it's playing up. If you want the Powercab to change settings when you switch presets, then the Powercab Remote setting needs to be set to 'preset'. The 'Link Inputs' setting on the Powercab is nothing to do with Line 6 Link. It determines whether the analogue inputs operate independently or are linked together. Just in case you're new to it, the digital setting in the Globals for the Helix needs to be set to L6 Link instead of S/PDIF. Also, with the same assumption, what firmware is the Powercab on? Although they haven't done an update in over three years, it wouldn't surprise me if they were being supplied on an older version. If it's lower than v2.00, it needs updating. If that was the case, that would almost certainly explain why the L6 Link isn't working.

Just curious. Tried it today, first time in a year or two. Not connecting. Not available on the downloads page.

It never gets old, does it?

Groovy and you're welcome.

1. Only one way to find out. Try it. If it doesn't work, reinstall your working version. 2. Yes. They're a file format that is specific to the Helix/HX system, not the computer's operating system. As long as you have aversion of HX Edit installed that is the same or newer than the version you used to create the files, they should work fine. 3. Hmm? If it were me I'd probably unregister the computer from Line 6 account, uninstall HX Edit, upgrade (not a clean install) to Windows 10. Register the computer again with Line 6. Reinstall HX Edit. Plug in the Helix and carry on with life. If you're going to a new computer, all the above, except copy the Line 6 folder in 'My Documents over to the new computer. I'm assuming you do the backups to the folder that HX Edit defaults to and haven't changed it yourself. NB: 'Just In Case', I'd copy the above folder to a USB stick, anyway. My gut feeling is that you could just do the Windows upgrade without the unregistering/uninstalling bits and all would be fine. Even if your computer goes up in flames, as long as you have a recent copy of the Line 6 folder that's in 'My Documents' on a (working) USB stick, your backups are safe.

It's '6 new amps, 4 new cabs, 1 new effect, and bug fixes' you didn't have yesterday, and it didn't cost you anything... f***ing muppet.

I got it FOC when I bought my Helix. I'm not a fan. Love the Helix, not so much Native. I have better options.

Same problem on both units at the same time? Have they been updated recently? If so, did you remember to do a backup and then a factory reset? That'd be my my first thought.

Any setting you want to change for a Snapshot needs to be 'activated'. In HX Edit, with the Helix, you'd right click that setting and click Snapshot in the drop down menu. Then go to your (2nd) Snapshot and adjust that parameter. Tip of the day: Read the manual. This stuff is in there.

Did you do a factory reset after the update? If not, do one - see below. If that doesn't fix it, try this... Download the latest versions of Line 6 Updater, POD Go Edit, and any version of the POD Go firmware - NOT the latest version. Start your POD Go whilst holding down the 'Page Right' button. Don't worry about the grey screen. Make sure your computer is not running ANY background music streaming crap like Spotify. Make sure your USB cable is in good nick. Plug the POD Go to your computer. Start Line 6 Updater in Offline Mode'. Select POD Go, select 'Update from file' and install the firmware that you downloaded. When that installs successfully, close the updater, Switch off the POD Go and do the 'Factory reset' startup procedure. Plug the POD Go in, start up POD Go Edit. FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS. The update will take about half an hour.

Absolutely no experience of getting a Jazz sound from anything, but if you have, then my advice would be to use the equivalent amp model to what you're used to in the real world. US Double (Blackface Twin) and the JC120 model, I think it's just called the Jazz Chorus are so clean you could see your reflection in them. Play with the mic type and placement - maybe use a ribbon model, at a distance and towards the edge of the speaker - and Low/High Cuts in the cab block. Place an EQ at the end of the chain if necessary to fine tune the base tone.

This really ^ A year on, mine sound the same, or maybe better? I have a year's more experience with 'em. They still do what I need 'em to do... the grass is always 'greener', but it's still just grass. "The tones are in there, you just have to learn how to get 'em out"

Check you USB settings on the laptop. The default is that the OS tries to save power by switching off USB ports that it thinks aren't being used, especially when running on the battery.

Hmm? Helix>Powercab 112+ or 212+ with some of the settings on the PC tweaked, using the speaker "modelling", works for me... with this caveat. I can make it sound exactly like my analogue rig, but it will never, no matter what/whose cab you use, feel exactly like the analogue rig, simply because the analogue parts of the digital rig are connected differently and don't interact with each other the same way. Ultimately, the signal chain will always be different and the cab I'm hearing through is not the same as the cab the 'real amp' would have had.

The harsh truth is you'll never achieve it 100%. The signal chain is not, nor can it ever be, exactly the same. With your analogue gear, at it's most basic, your guitar goes in to the front of the pre-amp>power amp>speaker, and even if you use a separate cab, that speaker still has an influence on how the poweramp behaves. With the Helix (and every other digital modeller), your guitar signal goes through an A/D converter, then all the magic happens, then through a D/A converter, to your (presumably) FRFR cab where it meets a Class D poweramp and on to the speaker. The virtual amp in your Helix is separated from the speaker by a converter and a Class D amp. The real speaker cannot influence the virtual amp. The only way to 'move air' is to move air. If you want to 'feel' like a you're playing a 4x12 stack going flat out, you're gonna need a 4x12 with the volume turned right up. Digital modellers can't change the laws of physics (Cap'n), but they can make the same noises.

Marshall are (or were) on that site, IIRC. As for MIDI, I only found it 'tricky' in times when we couldn't actually see on a PC screen what we were doing. Since PCs and Editing apps, it's got a helluva lot simpler for me - press a button, press another button a few times, turn a knob, press another button, press 'save' twice, cross your fingers and press whatever switch/button you were trying to program to make things happen... 'damn, which channel am I sending on? Which channel does 'Unit A' receive on? The button pressing required just to check settings... and don't get me started on sysex dumps. Connecting up and dragging a mouse around... heaven. The 000-127/001-128 thing still infuriates me, though.

Give it up,man. You can't argue with a moron, and I read in another thread that he returned it last Wednesday.

A Helix costs over a grand. The book costs $20. If you can't afford to waste $20, then you need to rethink your priorities.

Are your outputs set right for the amp? Line level where it should be instrument level? Global settings, check the manual and bear in mind that these settings can get reset to default after a firmware update.

Sorry, I didn't see this sooner. Download the latest versions of Line 6 Updater, POD Go Edit, and any version of the POD Go firmware - NOT the latest version. Start your POD Go whilst holding down the 'Page Right' button. Don't worry about the grey screen. Make sure your computer is not running ANY background music streaming crap like Spotify. Make sure your USB cable is in good nick. Plug the POD Go to your computer. Start Line 6 Updater in Offline Mode'. Select POD Go, select 'Update from file' and install the firmware that you downloaded. When that installs successfully, close the updater, Switch off the POD Go and do the 'Factory reset' startup procedure. Plug the POD Go in, start up POD Go Edit. FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS. The update will take about half an hour.

HX 1 and HX 2. Take a pot of white paint and paint a '1' on one of them and a '2' on the other.

Honestly, 12 years of doing 216 Hank Marvin Echo presets for various fx units... if I never mess with delays again, it'll be too soon!

The inference I get from the OP is that he wants repeats on the "and" only - a 1/4 note delay shifted forward by an 1/8. Only (or easiest, anyway) way to achieve that, as far as I can see in the Helix, is to have two consecutive delay blocks on a parallel path, as per my first reply. It being 120 bpm, a bar is 2s, a quarter is 500ms, an eighth is 250ms... thinking about it, the Multitap 4 could be set to do it without a parallel path, with a 1s delay time, 25% and 75% taps (with the two other taps silenced), mix and feedback to taste.