clay-man

What I personally gathered, is that 1.9 and HD have different frequency responses compared to eachother. Though HD has more clarity and precense, some of the tonalities aren't present that 1.9 had. One of those is the tonal aspect of 1.9's spank model which had a frequency response that made 2 and 4 seem a lot more quackier. I think it's pretty quacky, but yes, comparing 2 and 4 to the magnetics on a 69s, there is a very slight lack of quackiness compared to the magnetics. Overall, I prefer HD, but the problem with switching between 1.9 and HD is that it changes the applications of your tones, so it "sounds off" from what you've been used to. Workbench will always be there to help out shape your tones to what you want.

I upgraded from a 600 to a JTV69s because I wanted: 1) a better guitar 2) tuning know 3) HD firmware

There will be some limitations with alternate tunings. It might contribute to something hardware, I mean my 600's g string sounded like that to a really bad extent, but not on my JTV.

Well, it's either, 1.9 sounds like an old man farting into a pillow, or HD sounds like you're sending physical hammer nails through your guitar cable and out your amp. Pick your poison.

Oi jesus. This is a shame. Process shouldn't freak out so bad like this.

I think volume contributes to the tone drastically. There's a reason why people have higher gain pickups, because it pushes an amp harder. Pickups can change the way breakup acts on an amp, and the characteristics of your sound, so I do think it's very important.

Warbling. Make sure you don't have fret buzz on that string.

It has nothing to do with a "library of sounds", which sugggests sampling, which would make it a midi guitar. Absolutely nothing else but the signal itself is what you hear. There might be some effects going on in certain models (Sitar does an Attack-Decay-Sustain-Release filter to give it the sitar sound by listening to when you pick a string, but it's still the signal being processed) but it's ultimately the piezo sound getting processed to virtually emulate going through the modelled guitar pickups and electronics, as well as body resonance. It's why they probably chose Piezo pickups over magnetic pickups, because it's way closer to getting the cleanest sound of your guitar strings without it being colored by the frequency response of a magnetic pickup. It's why it sounds like an acoustic guitar, because when you listen to your electric unplugged, it kind of sounds like an acoustic, just not as rich because it doesn't have an acoustic body to resonate off of. When you have a clean sound, it's better to work with. I mean, look at those "acoustic simulator" pedals. They sound like garbage, because an magnetic pickup cuts out too much frequencies for a pedal to just "boost" the frequencies back in. It doesn't really work, it just sounds like an electric with high presence, and to some, I guess that's "acousticy" enough for them.

Part of the thing that is cool with the whole taping the ball end of the string other than getting rid of that horrible tinging noise on some of the strings, is that it also catches the ball ends from falling into the guitar. I don't know, just throwing this out there.

I was in your same boat. Honestly, if you can, save up for the new ones. If you're getting one off ebay, then why not get a JTV used? Used JTVs go down REALLY low these days.

I really do think the plink problem is some type of preamp style problem of the guitar distorting before the modeling stage, and that in some cases, the volume settings on the global strings acts like a preamp. I think Variaxes should have some sort of physical preamp section to normalize all of the string's volumes correctly. I think this could help get rid of the plink problem.

Did you purchase brand new? Try to get it swapped with a replacement JTV

I'm starting to think it's probably the new strings I'm using and they need to be broken in or something. but I'll see as the month goes by. When I first got the guitar, it DID have the problem a bit, but I notice it waver in and out over time, once again, probably due to the strings. There was a time when I had ddario's and Elixirs, so, maybe none coated strings would work best on my wound strings.

I agree with bringing it into a sh*t luthier and getting your guitar botched is something you need to be weary about, but that's why you look for a GOOD TRUSTED luthier. I went to Guitar Center and they talked about a setup, as well as a local guitar shop were a guy was like "I do simple setups because I kinda know how to do them", you think I'll trust those people? You go to a trusted luthier and flat out tell them to just adjust action, truss rod, intonation, and other basic stuff, it is not going to harm the guitar. Why do you think the guitar comes with a set of hex keys? So you can adjust the guitar if you need to, because, it would be retarded if doing something that basic would void the warranty, because, again, this is basic stuff that is both in regards to maintaining a guitar, and setting up to personal preference.

Why can't we have a setup with a trusted professional guitar tech? If they're not messing with the electronics and it's bare bones basic setup, there's nothing to worry about. The only thing I'd worry about, maybe, is if the guy was using, say, steel wool on your guitar, because that could short out the electronics if it flew into the cavity.

Try pushing down behind the nut and see if it goes away. The string break angle might be a problem.

It's why I never really use it on the guitar models. It would be nice if it did a drastic change, it could help people stop complaining about the muddiness of the HD acoustics.

I remember my Elixirs going up to 5 months before a string broke, and the sound was exactly as bright as it was from day 1. Anytime past that, I will start to finally see some rust, but generally, the strings are shiny silver. Sounds great, feels great.

Yes, but I got a 600 coffin and it did absolutely nothing when trying to replace it into my 600. I ended up sending it back. Either way, I ended up fixing my 600 this year, the problem was a botched solder job because I was using a garbage solder iron and soldering. After getting proper ones from Ace hardware, bam, my 1/4 jack was working again, though I think I do need to buy a volume pot again.

Even ones not being put into JTVs and sold at say, fullcompass? It definitely was not the case for the old Variax boards.

Actually, this, really bad. I remember getting a replacement board for my 600 and guess what? It wasn't pre-programmed, it literally had never been flashed, so plugging it in gave no info, and you could not flash it yourself. I believe they use special software to flash blank boards, and that you can't do it yourself with line 6 monkey. I don't know if this is still true with the JTV stuff, but I'd definitely leave it to a Line 6 tech in case they need to flash it theirselves. And yeah, NEVER EVER use a screw longer than the original screw. There is a reason the screw on the bottom is shorter than the screw on the horn of the guitar, so it doesn't touch the electronics. You honestly should have not turned your guitar on while the screw was in there, because shortages are most prone to when it's powered on, unless there's still power running through the guitar while it's off, but again, when it's off, the changes of shortage are highly unlikely.

Oh, and if anyone could, could they give me a dry recording of them noodling on the E string for comparison? I'd like to run it under some tests in comparison to my guitar.

So, I've noticed that my JTV is starting to sound weird again. I was loving my guitar to death but something has been bothering me lately. I'm getting this jangly overtone again on the fat E string and it's a bit overpowering. It's that phenomenon where the harmonic overtones overpower the root note you're playing, creating a droning sound. It was displayed in this thread, if anyone wants to hear what it sounds like: http://line6.com/support/topic/15282-jtv69-horrible-overtones-on-lowest-string-clip-included/ Is there anything I can do to reduce this? I tried lowering the volume in workbench, but that only disguises it when doing chords, and doesn't get rid of the problem. I did change my string recently, could it be because I'm using a different string and the overtones became strong again in the process? I use Elixirs on my guitar. Could it be, that I'm honestly going to need a normal string on the E for now on so that the overtones die off eventually? I've argued that this tone, IS a part of how guitar's sound, but when the mix between the root note and overtones is out of balance, it ruins the sound. I THINK I can kind of hear it on the magnetics too, but it's nowhere near as much as the modeling. Spank and Lester are big offenders. Like I said, I like it to be there a little bit, but when the honking sound is so loud to the point where you can hear it in palm muting in some amp settings, it's too strong. This is one of the reasons I sent back my first replacement for a 3rd guitar, because I thought it was awkward sounding and wanted to make sure I got the perfect JTV. The one I got did sound somewhat the same, but I rolled with it, and eventually loved it. Perhaps I started getting used to the old strings being on so the sound didn't come out as bad, and then switching a new E string threw me off? I've tried to do A/B comparisons to recordings of before I noticed this, and it does seem like it's there, but it seems like it wasn't as bad, but then again, sometimes, it might be because I'm playing softer then? Yes, the problem becomes more obvious the harder I pick the string. So what's up? Any input?

I had this problem on my 600 when I got it from Ebay. The piezo's ground contact is going bad. Shooting a bit of contact cleaner can usually help. In the end, I bought a new piezo and replaced it on mine.

ebay. I noticed my can was getting low so I got another. that Maxpro one works great on a lot of electroncis that need cleaning. It certainly changed my world when cleaning those damn game carts for my old systems.