clay-man

You're not listening. Custom banks are just custom patches you made in workbench. A patch is a bunch of variables that uses the model data to make up the guitar. When you select a Les Paul for example, it's using the Les Paul body data, and pickup data in the Variax, which is what is taking up flash memory. With all the bodies and pickups modeled, it takes up a lot of space. A patch is separate from the modeling programming/data, and is just instructions/variables for the Variax to use the modeling in a certain setup. What you're asking would need more modeling data, not another preset/patch. They'd need to model the guitar which would take up a nice amount of room, and they don't even have that room in the first place, which is my argument. So basically, there's barely any memory, if any at all, to add new models, and the model you're asking for will need memory to be added on. Basically they'd need to remove things to add things, and that's probably not going to happen. The only new model they ever added was the JTV 89 model. That was just 1 model.

Even with an ideascale post, I highly doubt this would be added. Variax's memory is already practically a the brim with the current firmware's size, and adding more models might literally be impossible, if not even one can be added. Since the memory hardware on the Variax is the limitation here, that means it's impossible to upgrade, unless you guys honestly want to do a "Variax Standard X" or "JTV X" routine and buy new guitars with bigger memory, which is retarded in the concept of a guitar. If they honestly tried to upgrade the Variax hardware, we should just have a next gen of Variaxes in general.

Alright so bandwidth is an issue. That's more understandable. I know that streaming 2 audio signals and 1 control signal is a lot of data, but I feel like there's some way to handle that, but then again, we're talking about realtime processing which might be something that would be a problem for what I'm talking about.

Wtf? The piezos produce a sound in the sense that it picks up the sound and produces a signal read from what it's hearing. He's talking about the sound of the strings before they're processed and modeled, aka the piezo sound, like on electric guitars with a piezo system. It would be nice to have as an option. Technically you don't even have to program anything other than code to bypass modeling, so unless there's no room for code for that, then it can surely be an added feature.

Contact cleaner is supposed to get rid of all the s*** that is built up that is causing the connection problem in the first place. It makes the metals contact more evenly and perfectly. WD40 has oils which will be there when it dries, which is good for LUBRICATION but not CONTACT. Contact cleaner cleans it out, and dries without residue. It's kind of a no brainer. I could preach it all day.

If you try to get a board and install it into your guitar, I'm pretty sure you're going to be pissed off in the end. I tried that with an older Variax and it did absolutely nothing. The board was not flashed with any code so it couldn't communicate to the VDI port, so I couldn't even flash the guitar. Pretty sure Line 6 needs to do some type of hard flash on the board that can't be done via your USB hub and monkey. It's probably some equipment they only have. Sounds lame, but it'll save you a lot of grief unless you want to mess around with sending something back to Full compass.

That's the problem. I literally tried to use it to clean a scratchy pot and it made it so much worse to the point that I had to replace the pot completely. I don't know how you have good luck with electrical use, but honestly, WD-40 has an oil/grease that is not going to help with electrical conductivity. WD-40 is made to make things more smooth, not to clean things, especially electronic connections, which is exactly what Electronic Contact cleaner is for. I used to try to use isopropyl to clean game cartridges for old consoles and it would get dirty again pretty fast. When I first got Contact cleaner, it made the connection flawless, and there would be zero connection errors until like months later when grime builds up again naturally. I applied the same with some of my guitar and other equipment, including a VOX amplug that had scratchy pots that would go away completely, and even fixed the pickup switch not working right on me on my old Variax. I'm happy that WD-40 worked for you, but physics dictate it's not a good thing for electrical conduction related scenarios, because, again, residue. While you know how to use it yourself, I strongly don't think you should suggest people to use it on their electronic equipment. You might end up getting someone furiously pissed at you if they borked something of theirs from doing that.

And my argument is that this is supposed to be a higher end products and there's no excuse for cutting it cheap on important components, which should be ALL OF THE GUTS.

I strongly don't recommend using WD40. WD40 is used to make something move more smoothly, not to clean a connection. I am speaking from personal experience because I was desperate at the time. WD40 leaves residue which will make the problem way worse. Use electric contact cleaner for any connection issues. This works all the time for me. Maybe I sound like I'm trying to sell a pitch here, but I'm not lollipoping joking, it's something you absolutely must have if you deal with any type of electronics or electrical connections.

I still don't understand how you'd need 3 separate radio signals instead of combining the info into 1 stream of data packets.

I think it's kind of rude to crap on psarkissian just because it's not an official statement. He just works on the guitars, it's not like he's a high corporate representative that can circulate this information and make a PA about it to Line 6 users. It's probably something he knows out of experience and just wants to help inform us that, Line 6 put something in the guitar that COULD get fried if overloaded. Honestly, maybe Line 6 shouldn't be putting poor components on their products? It's probably bare-bones passable stuff that goes out to try to "save costs" even though these products are nothing to skimp quality with. Let's be honest, we like Line 6 for their innovation, not their quality control. I still remember when I became Line 6 for a while because my GX had a component that lollipop the bed after 1 year of using the product.

Trying to model off of an absolutely normal pickup is a joke. The reason why a GK pickup or piezo pickups are used is to get the cleanest sounding signal to work with before it gets processed to sound like other pickups/guitars/etc. A, let's say, bridge humbucker pickup is never going to get the sounds of a strat bridge pickup, because too many of the highs and presence are lost in a humbucker. It's like shaving your head and trying to glue your hair back on. It just doesn't work. You got rid of it, you can't put it back in.

Because in theory it should be a better reference point to model off of. In certain aspects, it is (broader frequency response that magnetic pickups can't get) but the drawback is that piezos get the signal differently than magnetic pickups. That fact adds unwanted characteristics to modeling (muffled palm mutes, unwanted string noise, etc). The acoustics flat out sound better than the Roland guitar. Even some of the electrics have some liveliness that the Roland misses, but it adds things that people don't want to hear in a guitar signal. It's a win/lose situation. I mean, what's the number one thing people want with a modeling guitar? For it to actually sound like the guitar the models are based off of. Ultimately, modeling guitar will never be perfect simply because of physical limitations.

I believe it stresses one of the components that manages power distribution, which can risk frying that component. I've done 1/4 and VDI at the same time before and got away with it, but it's Line 6, so I guess I'd personally not take a chance.

Apparently you can fry your variax if you do this. Or maybe this is only on the new JTVs with batteries?

I know, but I'm always paranoid about stuff.

Totally agree. Absolute pain in the lollipop to do any guitar work that will push the E strings off from center of their default position, which is going to happen with hammer-ons and pull-offs unless you're somehow unhumanly anal precise about finding a good balance of hammering on and pulling off without sliding the string off too far. Even with the "fix/addressing" of the E string slippage, I still think even though they apparently beveled the frets narrower, it still isn't enough room for respectable hammer ons and pull offs. Doing 3rd Chords on the E and A string are also a pain in the lollipop, which I like to do a lot, and you kind of have to push your chord upwards so the E doesn't slip off. If the neck was like a normal Strat neck instead of this "Oh this appeals to people who have tiny baby midget hands" crap, it would of been the perfect guitar. That reminds me, my warranty is running out really soon, I might as well swap the neck soon.

Les Paul and JTV 89 presets are the best imo.

Les Paul's generally have a thicker body don't they? My Variax is actually my heaviest guitar, but then again I don't have a Les Paul.

A Strat style tremolo only floats from how much spring tension you let off for the tremolo to angle off the guitar, meanwhile a floyd rose has a cavity under the trem for it to float in more room which allows bends up. You should be able to make a Standard float to some extent if you back off the springs.

Like I said, this isn't really warbling, and more of pitch shifting artifacts. You're not going to fix it because that's how it's supposed to sound. It's most likely the pitch shifting block not having the best blurring method ever which creates this really subtle background effect on the strings. You either have to live with it or hate your guitar. This is warble: If you listen to the beginning part, there's a pitch shifter 1 octave above the original note, and whatever pitch shifter is being used makes warbling noises when playing more than 1 note. That's warble.

Pinch harmonics honestly has nothing to really do with anything other than technique of knowing where the divisions are on the string to make a harmonic ring. In order to do pinch harmonics well, you must have a general concept of what you're even doing in the first place. Basically a pinch harmonic is a division of the normal note that would play if you didn't pinch the string. Your thumb hits the string on a hot spot which is divisible on the string. If you did a pinch harmonic at the 12th fret on an open string, it would play the same note as the 12th fret even though you didn't fret down on it, because it's an octave higher, or 1/2 the string length. The only factor you can really say about magnetic vs piezo, is that the magnetic pickups might be a bit more audible in pinch harmonics because of where the pickups sit, but ultimately you can still do pinch harmonics fine on the Variax.

HIghly recommended. Piezos going out is mostly from crap getting into the gaps of the piezo and saddle, which if covers the entire piezo, will break your ground connection. Contact Cleaner will absolutely abolish the crap that could cut out the ground connection and practically make the connection good as new.

Sorry, what I meant was, that if using the whammy bar means that the strings get caught in the saddle instead of falling back to zero, then it's coming back sharp. Bending causes it to fall to normal.

really minimal floating. Basically parallel to the body.