JaseFIJo

I know think it's a USB3.0 v 2.0 fired up an old machine with Windows 10 and USM 2.0 ports 1. When plugging in the Transmitter the driver didn't auto load at first but the trouble shooter actually worked! and installed the driver. 2. Downloaded the Updater, logged in 3. Device recognised 4. Updated the firmware with no issues Not sure if this would be important but also had the auto sleep mode switch in the off position. Transmitter now at most recent firmware.

I have a similar issue at the moment, updated the base unit no problem, went to update the TB516G and the updater program states "The Transmitter was not detected correctly". I have opened ticket with support and are being helpful, so far have suggested. 1. http://line6.com/support/page/kb/_/live-sound/relay-digital-wireless/how-to-update-relay-g7075-transmitter-and-rece-r807 Make sure you've installed the latest version of Line 6 Updater (v1.12) and try updating in offline mode. For this, please download the TB516G flash memory file v1.03 from our website: http://line6.com/software/ Connect the transmitter via USB to your computer, launch Line 6 Updater, don't login, choose "offline mode" instead. Then select the downloaded file and try to repeat the update. Also test it with different USB ports and another USB cable. Don't connect to an USB hub. If still not working, please test it with another computer, if possible. Which I have been through, when I try and connect same report. I suspect that is a driver type issue maybe specific to Windows 10 which I have also running on a surface pro. Attached are the event reports for the device, where something is not finalising with the driver install. It is also suggested that your remove the batteries from the Transmitter for an update and there is a 5 secs on/off reset should things not go to plan If you are not seeing anything in the updater window then the device driver has probably not installed correctly or you have a cable fault. If you look in Devices and Printers you should see and Unspecified device called USB-Serial (Single Channel) - this is what mine registers as anyway. If you right click and run the trouble shooter it reports the device is a composite older USB that may not work with USB 3.0. So I'm off to find a USB 2.0 port on another machine! If I solve it or Support come up with something then I will post

Thanks guys unfortunately it's not new and out of warranty, I've had it 21+ months. I've got no service centres near me at all and shipping guitars with couriers just adds to the risk of other s**t happening! Arrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrgh

So after a few re-installs and reflashes I've got Standard tuning to Dropped D and Dropped D is Dropped Bb, 1/2 down doesn't appear to change anything now. It would appear looking back at history others have had simliar issues in the past that cleared up!. The tone on the modelling sounds pretty poor so there's something else going on. Anyway my best theory is that the rotor switch for the alt-tuning is not working consistently for the first few tunings. Does any one know what a Green LED means on this switch?

Dropped D stays the same as the new Standard, 1/2 down goes another half down , 1 down seems go another 1/2 down and the rest seem ok Haven't touched a thing since the last firmware updated to 2.21 months ago, haven't connected to HD workbench and haven't added any customer of virtual capos from the guitar recently. Any ideas? I've now connected and rolled back the firmware from monkey (same problems which seems weird), updated back to 2.21 and then reinstalled 2.21 no changes to the symptoms above. Jason

So the answer to my own queston is use channels 1-12 XLR to 1/4 TRS cable. Connect this way and all the digital process chains are available

Just to add to this thread the output direct from a H&K is "too hot" for either input the MIC XLR (1-12) or LINE (12-16). Just had a test session with our lead guitarist and couldn't really make much sense of it other than have the trim at the lowest value which is +6dB. Output from the PA didn't sound too bad even though you could see that there was a fair amount of clipping going on. Probably needs some kind of attenuator in the loop before connection to the desk. Which leads me to a question, if you use the LINE in then the dynamic digital processing line is just "basic" i.e comp and EQ. How do you select something like the uber setting? Which has things like gate and limiter using the limiter may help with this.

Wow this thread and some others I have read seem to point a very common type of issue. It would appear to me that some type of change has taken place over older versus newer M20d or just plain build quality. I "had" a M20d, still have one if I'm fair but have not seen it very quiet some time! It started exhibiting all the common modes of failure, channel level drops, left main out output fading then recovering, working fine for 3/4 of a gig then fading for a while etc etc. You can put this down to some or all of the issues that have been highlighted in previous posts. My view it's a common hardware fault so updates, patches and all the iApps! in the World won't fix it. If you have this issue and it's within warranty then send it back to be resolved, pain in the arse but it's the only way. So FYI, for those of you out there and it's not a great story so far. Dropped off the unit April 10th 2015 at Guitar Guitar Glasgow, they did point out at the time that they were experiencing a few issues with turnarounds citing the Yamaha>Line6 take over. Didn't think much of it until I phoned for an update May 10th and May 29th both times the key component (circuit board) assume this is the input board as looking at the picture(s) doesn't look like there are many others had an Estimated date 15th August 2015. Potentially five and a bit months down time in the first year!!! if this is indicative of all the other things reported around the M20d, the Line 6 MTTR and MTBF must look shocking. Shout out to the guys at Guitar Guitar, they have been great :D but they really can't do anything with regard to internal parts delivery Anyone from Line6 listening?

Mark If the handle is anything like the DT50 I have then the screws thread into some form of nut with spikes into the under side of the case not the amp chassis. If they've all gone walkies then I'd worry where they dropped to, if they have stripped then they are goosed. Longer screws and some compatible nuts, small washer and lock-tight will have the same effect and will hold the handle on.

Had the DT50 head for a while and have been running it through my single 12" Blackstar cabinet (open), sounds good probably doesn't do the tone justice when "live". Not sure I what to humfph around a 4x12" cab the head is heavy and big enough! so I've been looking at 2x12" the orange PPC212 open back or the closed back version Anyone had any experience with this or any other 2x12" closed or open backs?

Useful info, so many things to mess around with and not enough time! ;) Thanks Jason

I've hooked up my HD500 to the DT50 head (line6 link) and have a few patches switching various pre amps in and out. My question is what happens when you disconnect the HD500? The reason for this question is does the HD head remember the last pre amp selected on the channel via the HD500 or does it revert back to the base settings in the head? When I go guitar direct to the jack with no HD500 the DT50 is the base condition "out of the box" other changes on the front dials. I'm just a little confused on how this routing works. When you switch channels A to B and back the head will remember the configuring set from the previous time the channel was used how does the HD500 effect/interact with this. Thanks

Bought one last week an hooked it direct to my desk and used my DI box both work. No amp modelling you'll need to get a POD "something" number Great if you don't want to transport a load of gear around

just installed version 1.70 Norton complaining of suspicious activity noted as potential sonor heuristics 120 Trojan. So unistalled and installed version 1.67 runs without Norton flagging suspicious activity with the new version? Anyone else have the same

OK must be some sort of file corruption or data transfer issue with 2.1. tried a couple of times to reload it over itself but issue was still apparent and tried to set tuning to what they should be with no luck. So: 1. Re-installed version 2.00 via Monkey 1.67 - Everything back to normal and all tunings normal , at least what they are supposed to sound like 2. Checked everything looked ok with workbench HD 2.1 3. Gave version 2.1 another go via Monkey 1.67 - Everything normal and tuning normal however look a the tuning "manage" box attached. Looks a bit like the problems I was experiencing in "lost tunings" stepped on the thumb wheel I'd updated to version 2.1 pretty much as soon as it came out and have not connected workbench HD for a few months, why with no changes would it suddenly start to act up if there was not some sort of small bug out there is it potentially and issue with the VDI link to a POD500 v2,32 and the patches there. Is version 2.2 on the way Problem solved happy it was not a physical issue, it's probably worth noting

I thought I was going made the tail end of my last gig, couldn't remember a thing, or at least it did not sound right. It's happened before but then I remembered I was in the wrong tuning mode. Select the right one and everything is fine. This did not happen on Saturday and having a play with my JTV-69 for the first time since the gig have noticed that STANDARD is not standard anymore, seems like it's moved to Dropped D and MODEL is now Standard, DROP D is now something like D# (1/2 down) but not consistent, get to DROP Db and it's like the kids have been tuning it then things start to behave normally again. Sounds like something needs looking at but it's a strange type of fault so re-flashed the firmware and reset all the patches problem still exists. You would have thought that if the switch was at fault it would have effected all locations, not just to shift things up from drop Db and then leave 1/2 down normal, very weird Anyone come across something similar, did it need a return to base to get it fixed? Jason PS I'm double upset as I'm just waiting for my DT50 to arrive to complete the dream rig with my HD500, seems like I'll have to wait a little longer to get full use of it :(

Once you come in line and use (Guitar) you only have a couple(or 3) presets so ended up using guitar modeler. Under general there a few more but there not really much different.

There are quiet a few guides on the 4CM if you look in the knowledge base. My personal opinion is it's not worth the hassle, unless you are really picky about your tone and as you say you are running clean sounds the amp pre amp may not colour the POD preamp too much. Live most punters would not know the difference of having for example a reverb after the pre amp or not so it really come down to what you like for recording I think As for the volume level the only consist way I've been able to resolve this is hook the POD up to a DAW (or similar using a USB) I use Reason and match the amp/mixer out level using the big VU/Peak meter, if you pan to centre they should both be the same, if you start using left and right they'll differ. I try and target about -12dB on VU for a clean un fx'd tone and then things like boost, tube, comp etc can they sit about this but don't target over 0dB, peak should then float around without clipping. Remember running additional kit will drop levels so on the FX send/rtn block you can boost the levels in dB out and in to the pod to balance the volume with the amp you just have to mess with it. Run your guitar>amp pre amp>power section then run guitar>pod>fxloop>power section and adjust the send rtn levels to make the sound volume about the same without adjusting the amp level. You need lots of spare time to set this up and get consistent levels and volume - so have fun

Post in POD HD Couple of things you may want to try 1. There is a small switch near the pedal marked 1/4" out line/amp if you are connected from the front make sure this is AMP 2. Check that the patch you are using doesn't have a high level output on the mixer block 3. As the dials on the POD don't match the patch until you move them make sure that they are not cranked up along with the values on-board the patch If you plug to the back of the amp this is really for the FX loop and is between the pre amp and power amp. You can use it this way but need to connect to FX return on the amp and only use a pre amp block in the HD500 not a complete amp model.

Did you ever get to the bottom of this? sounds very similar to an issue I've noted with my M20 and posted looking for opinions. See: Relative levels fading a little

Changed cable to full balanced TRS both ends, no reoccurrence of the level fade. So changed cable back to original unbalance 1/4" Jack no level fade but did pick up a low level buzz/noise, didn't sound like 50Hz. Ran it for a good while and though everything was fine, came back after a switch off and a few hours away, tried again with the full TRS cable and back cam the level fade. So as Rick suggested could be power, could be the amp DI input both are on the same surge protection strip so shouldn't have grounding issues. If it is the amp why would it be affecting the drum machine level (don't think the output is balanced). Maybe the original issue is having the contact with the -ring and shield within the M20 which is what would happen if a mono unbalanced cable was inserted. Full TRS appeared initially to solve it now I'm not so sure. Just don't like random things happening I know the keyboard player has a unbalanced 1/4" so could this reappear if I use this set-up at the next gig, need all the other 1-12 for the mics and other things so these line inputs are important. May just get a mono to TRS cable for the keyboard but still don't appear to have worked out why the level appears to move.

Not sure that this is an actual problem but seemed very apparent at the time and appears to have cleared up based on some rerouting so just looking for some opinions. I'm just curious to find out if it a potential cable issue or just the way the balanced line in's handle this as it was the mix of balanced and unbalance inputs. Worst case I hope it's not the start of a fault This is what I was doing had a zoom RT-223 drum machine hooked up to i/p 15 using a unbalanced 1/4" jack cable, output from zoom is line and unbalanced I think. Had a Blackstar HT20 (Emulator out line balanced) hooked up to i/p 14 using a balanced 1/4" TRS. Auto trimmed both RT 14dB, HT 10dB set the faders to about -3dB and -1dB respectively and started to jam along with the drum machine. After about 2/3 minutes got a very noticeable drop off in drum level (hadn't touched a thing) so watched on deep tweek to see if the auto tracking algorithm was changing trim. No change I could see, switched off trim tracking to see if this had an effect nothing changed on the level . Continued to play along and level seemed to go back to original, again other than turning off trim track hadn't touched a thing. So after a few more repeats of drop off then recover some time later decided to reboot. Same thing happened again only the amp had decided to copy the fault and level dropped off on this too, then came back. This is what I did moved drum to i/p 12 re trimed and set-up level and left HT20 in i/p 14 unchanged. Level issues so far no problems and it's been running like this for a few hours. So do the balanced line in's not like unbalanced line connections and somehow it effects all (13-16) i.e is it a common multiplexed ADC or is there something weird going on. Opinions?

Makes perfect sense now and is the answer. I thought that the input on the M20d would have detected the mic/inst/line level but it doesn't, it's just guessing based on the type of connection cable plugged in, except ch (13-16) which are line. Thanks again

Thanks for this DI too hot all night, although Ken said his guitar was quieter than most ;-) including mine . Anyway looking at the manual the DI it is straight after the pre amp so pretty loud (or signal high) i.e. line ish, so can I put an attenuator in (if there is such a thing). So next gig can I DI the H&H amp without having issues? Thanks Jason

OK but the back of the amp doesn't look like it has this option So if I'm doing a manual adjust let me set the trim to less than 0 dB stops at this point Thanks Jason