codamedia

A cheap alternative is the M-Audio EXP. 1: Open the unit and solder a wire across the 1K resistor near the volume pot... effectively rendering the resistor useless. 1: Set the switch on the back to "M-Audio" 2: Set the MIN volume knob all the way off Build quality is similar to a Roland EV-5... but they are priced much lower.

Edit the patch and move whatever was assigned to the TOE over to a new button. When you plug in an external pedal is it ALWAYS exp2... and the internal pedal becomes exp1. You might have to re-assign a few things, but it can be done easy enough.

I'd try the British J-45 (JTM-45) or the Tweed B-Man (59 Bassman) to get you in the ballpark.

That's a really good point... one I simply assume. I never keep a battery hooked up if I am running XPS or VDI! I only use one power source at a time. I have accidentally left the battery hooked up... no blood no foul. BUT - I try my best to make a habit of removing the battery after I have used one.

I just opened up my HD and sure enough... the only models that appear to be missing the "power amp" section is the Pete Anderson and Acoustic.. My apologies... my memory has failed me once again :)

Disregard this paragraph... leaving it here for context, but I am wrong: I beg to differ... most of these models (Vintage Pack.. I can't speak for the other packs) are older models from the POD 2, XT and X3 that some missed on the HD units - but it required effort to get them ported to work on the HD. I own this pack myself, and I'll say these are some of my favorite models, well worth the $50. The VOX Channels are much warmer than the ones in the HD. The Acoustic is great if you ever setup to use acoustic instruments, and the Pete Anderson Custom is one of the best models L6 has ever created on any series. That was created for Pete himself back in the POD 2 era.... but was never available to the public until this release. On the website they used to tag (with an *) which ones were true HD and which ones were ported from older models, but I don't see that anymore. Here is another way to tell... if the model has the Power Amp section (master, sag, bias, etc... etc...) is a true HD model. If it doesn't have that, it is an older model that has been ported for the HD. Subsequently, the older models don't have a "pre-amp only" version either.

If it only has 2x10" speakers and no horn then it can't simulate an FRFR box. It will work... and could sound great.... but it won't have anything that represents "full range" without a horn. The first part of of FRFR is "full range". That can be accomplished with anything that has a horn. It could be studio monitors, a PA monitor, a keyboard amp, an acoustic amp... and yes, some bass amps as well. PA's are also full range... The next part of FRFR is "flat response" and this is very misleading. Most cabinets that are sold as FRFR are Full Range only.... flat response is not part of the equation. You would pay a fortune for something that is truly flat response. EDIT TO ADD: I just looked at the specs on that amp and it appears it has a TWEETER that can be turned on/off. If that is turned on, you are extending the range and should be an option for you.

Glad to hear about the progress. It wouldn't be a bad idea to hook that XPS up to a multi-meter and get a good look at what it is doing. You should also make sure the TRS cable isn't the culprit. I always like to make sure my XPS is working in the event the VDI ever goes. A 9 volt battery is a great test and will work in a pinch, but the MaH only provides about 2 hours on a Variax. 6 "AA" batteries gets you about 12 hours.

You are trying to load your 2.7 HX Stomp setlist into Helix Native? Did you remember to update your Helix Native plugin to 1.7? I don't see that mentioned in your post.

I fly all the time with my gear.... you have found the safest way to move it around. Place a bed of clothes in the bottom of the suitcase, place in the POD, then cover it with more clothes. It's protected as best it can be other than hard shell road cases. Will the airline care... no! It won't set of any bomb tests so at most it might get a random check. It's a legitimate product... it will be fine.

Sounds like things are starting to fall in place. That's a nice partial refund you got... that changes the game... and almost pays for your POD Pro. I didn't realize you were in Canada... which area? I'm a Winnipeg Jets fan if that gives you any indication of where I am :) Those little piezos are a pain to get out when they get hardened in. I can't remember how I got mine out, but yes, they are delicate so you can't be too rough with them. Line 6 sells them in their online store... BUT they won't ship to Canada. Yorkville (Long and McQuade) is the L6 distributor, they can likely bring them in for you. The piezos are called "x-inserts" and they are made by LR Baggs. You may be able to order them directly from them as well... but I think that would take a phone call, I don't see anything online. The other option is to replace the saddles/piezos with Graphtech Ghost Saddles (Model: PN-8000-00)... many people of done this. They are available through many online outlets, and Long and McQuade will also order them in if you want. The difference is that these saddles have separate HOT/Ground wires while the X-Inserts only have a HOT wire while the ground connects through the set screws. This makes the ghost saddles more reliable. As for the battery box... I'm sure you can find a used one. Don't worry about capping the 9 volt end in the meantime.... I just stuff a small piece of foam in the battery compartment to keep it from moving around... the plastic battery cover can't conduct so it's all safe. If you are really worried, just put a piece of electrical tape over it. As for the XPS... you got the best of the batch... but according to Line 6 it's not right for the 300. I have no idea what could possibly be different in the 300 that it would require more power than the 500, 600,700? I've seen some reports of people saying it will work... I've seen other reports of people saying it won't.

Hmmm.... just thinking out loud here. Did the guitar come with an XPS or an XPS mini? The 300 is suppose to come with the mini According to L6, the 300 (for whatever reason) requires more power than the 500, 600 and 700. The MINI puts out just over 8 volts, a standard XPS puts out closer to 7. If the guitar came with the wrong XPS, that "may" be the problem.

The XPS MINI converts the 9 Volt AC into just over 8v DC (give or take a little) and regulates it. It's quite stable at maintaining the voltage. I am basing this on how my XPS is reading, I don't know if those are the specs, I just know it works. Have you cleaned the TRS connection on the Variax? Spray some contact cleaner on the jack and insert it several times.... then repeat. Don't spray directly into the jack. Do the same with the XPS TRS Connection.... and all connections for that matter. A 9volt battery is certain an easy test as well. That takes it right down to the GUITAR and eliminates the possibility of a problem with the XPS & TRS. When using a battery, just plug the guitar into the amp (or pedal board) with a regular guitar cable. Yes - put on a fresh set of strings, and make sure that bridge is clean. If you can stabilize the guitar it may be worth keeping, but I'd certainly expect a partial refund for the troubles. Good luck

The HD500 is setup to receive tap tempo information on MIDI CC #64... values 64 - 127. If you are trying to sync the HD500 to the tempo in Studio One, you need to setup Studio One to send the tempo using the values described above. You might be better off asking the good people at the Studio One forums. If you are trying to sync Studio One to the tempo of the HD500.. then you need to set the tap button to send MIDI CC#64... min 64 max 127. This can be done on the MIDI Assign Screen on the HD500 (press and hold the move button to access this). Next, setup Studio One to receive that message, and apply it to the tempo. Again - a question that is best answered by the people at Studio One.

Yeah... that battery compartment looks beyond hope. If that is in this bad of shape, it makes me wonder about the rest of the guitar... such as jacks, switches, etc.... Is it worth fixing? Well... that would depend on where you bought it from and was it "as described". It seems you say you paid $500 for it... I'd be returning it at that price. How are you powering it? XPS Mini? 9 Volt Battery? VDI Cable? Try each method if they are available to you and see if it stays running with any of those. The ground on each pickup is actually the saddle making the connection to the bridge. That needs to be clean or strings will get fuzzy, distorted, weak, and may even quit altogether. String volume can be adjusted in Workbench (and BTW, a wound G is quieter than plain G) but I'd try to make sure the pickup is making a good ground connection first. Good luck!

Is there anything in the effects loop. or is that just empty? If that's empty, I think it's a huge increase in the noise floor....

I would have expected it to be like you are suggesting, but that is not what I am experiencing. Even after authorization, I cannot load a new instance of Helix Native if my DAW is offline.

Thanks Phil_m.... good to know it won't get damaged. However, if sound could be compromised then I think I'll be best to use a direct box for consistency. A little isolation might be a good thing.

I know the Helix is not to be used with Phantom Power... but can I ask what happens if it is accidentally turned on? Is it just a noise issue, or will it damage the unit, or both? Most low/mid range consoles don't have individual phantom on the strips so the probably of an accident waiting to happen increases dramatically. If I use the XLR outputs it's not a case of "if" the Helix will see phantom power, it's a case of "when" it will see phantom power. I'm thinking it might be best to just use a DI box.... such a shame.

Can you expand on this? Are you saying that with NOTHING being played it is showing a flat D note? How does the tuner respond when you are tuning? Is it accurate on all strings, including the D note? In general, most (including myself) find the new tuner to be very good. I don't have the Helix here to see if mine is doing this.... but I will check next time I fire it up. Can't comment on the other items, other than to say I haven't experienced the problem. That means nothing though :)

Not my intent... if we were standing face to face I would say the same thing but you would realize my intent is to be helpful, not condescending. I apologize if it is coming across that way in the writing. I do wish this form had emoticons that worked :) You make a good point here! With a firmware update the Helix does an automatic reboot and rebuild.... yet with a restore it lets you use it and only rebuilds on the next start which may take a person off guard if they aren't expecting it.

Yes.... it rebuild the presets to begin with, but you restored old presets so the unit is back to square one. I think the solution is quite elegant as it is. If you keep "up to date" backups for the current firmware, even an emergency restore at a gig would only result in a 20 second boot time (after the restore of course). I fail to understand why this is the fault of the Helix? The problem is that you loaded old presets (before a gig no less).... If it were me I wouldn't be asking Line 6 for a new way to do it, I'd be kicking my own butt for not understanding how it worked, and/or for not having up to date backups.

Sometimes the knobs get what is known as "jitter"... especially as the unit ages. It's the digital version of an amp getting scratchy pots. It doesn't take much for a knob to change a value... even by a fraction. When that happens, that screen will appear. A good cleaning can take care of this... but only if you know what you are doing. In the meantime, you have found the safe solution.

Makes little sense to me... especially with the PREAMP models already separated, and the CAB models already separated. It would be pretty easy for a company like Behringer to analyze the "differences" between a full amp (pre-amp and power amp) and a pre-amp only model to determine the difference.

Just to play devils advocate on this old thread.... 20 seconds is less time than it takes for a tube amp to warm up enough to play it... and that always seems acceptable to most guitar players. It's also a lot less time than it takes to "trace and replace" a bad cable or connection on a traditional pedal board and is just slightly longer than making a guitar switch when a string breaks. S&#! happens sometimes! IMO... the only time a 20 second boot would be an issue for me is if I forgot to power up before the count begins. If the gig was that important I'd be on a UPS.