codamedia

I see in the video you are using the auto installer from online. It is possible that your machine has cached a corrupted copy of the installer. Down the update file separately, then run the installer choosing a local file.

Although you may be correct, planned obsolescence of a guitar can't be good for sales... especially as it becomes widely known.

If you don't want to go the JAVA route, then you will never be able to use the older Workbench. It is required and used to be part of the the Workbench install until the installer "pointer" no longer pointed to the correct URL at JAVA.COM. That is why you have to do it manually now.

You would have to drop everything an octave, and IMO - pitch shifting gets really wonky at that point, especially when you need to sustain a note. That said... on days when I can't drag my Bass VI (a guitar tuned down an octave) to a gig I mimic that with the "legacy > bass octave". It's not great, but it works OK if I stick to single lines. I should take the time to try a few others... but I use it so rarely I haven't gotten around to finding a better patch. As for amps... start with the "Tuck n' Go" based on the Ampeg Flip Top. It's really easy to setup and sounds great... it's also one of the most recorded bass amps in history. Studio players loved them.

Something is very wrong if you are not hearing any difference between a 0% mix and a 100% mix. Remove the cables from the send/return... then see what happens when you adjust that mix control. With the loop turned on you should get NO SOUND when it is set to 100% and having it set to 0 should be the same as having the effect turned off.

Tell the search you use Windows 8... or even Windows 7... then download that version. No need to be so honest :) ABSOLUTE BS! Both my desktop and laptop are on the latest versions of Windows 10... it works fine! For the record, I also own a Variax 300. I don't use Mac, so I cannot comment there. For Windows 10, it is simple. 1: Go to JAVA.COM and install the latest version of JAVA 2: Go to the Line 6 download area, and download the latest version of the original Workbench software... not HD. If you choose Windows 10 as part of the search it will not find it, enter Windows 8 or 7 into the search and download that version (as mentioned above) 3: Install Workbench but de-select the option to install JAVA... you already installed that in step on. If it throws a Java error, ignore it! Launch workbench and enjoy!

You have the idea. There are two options... 1: If you don't need all 9 fx blocks, just insert a SEND and send that to your dry amp... the HX output would then send to your wet rig.The send can go wherever you want... so if you wanted DIRT to both amps it can come after the dirt, but before any delays and reverbs. 2: For a full wet/dry setup... drop all of your effects to path B then hard pan the Y split at the end of the chain. Path A (no effects) to the dry amp, path B to the wet amp. The reason I suggest moving everything to Path B is because the Y split at the end will not be created without something on Path B.

This sounds like a BLEND problem.... a setting within the loop block of the HX Effects. Make sure your HX Effects LOOP or SEND (whichever method you use) doesn't have the blend at 50/50! If half the signal is bypassing the loop it will hit the power amp input directly and won't provide the desired results. I don't have my unit or manual in front of me, but I think you want the blend set to 100%. If that doesn't work, try the other way :)

Yes... the original release of these units (the noisy ones) are the result of somebody screwing up. There are out of spec parts so that means it was either designed that way, written that way, or manufactured that way. Somebody screwed up even if it is five company's removed and a box of caps or resistors got mislabeled. As for the "bricking".... it terrifies me to read some of these posts. My HX Effects has been great... no issues at all. But I suspect all of my confidence would go out the window should it leave me high and dry at a gig. I run a redundant system, I can survive without it, but that's not the point.

There is a great step by step provided by Line 6. I'm not sure anyone here can lay it out in more detail :) https://line6.com/support/page/kb/pod/pod-hd500-hd500x/installing-hd-model-packs-on-hd500x500hdhd-prohd-pro-x-r730/

Don't confuse MIDI and Audio... This question I quoted above is about AUDIO.... if it were me, I'd put the M9 into the loop of the HD500. * HD Loop send to M9 input * M9 output to HD Loop return * Don't forget to insert and turn on the loop block on the HD. The original question about syncing patches (already answered by phil_m) will require a MIDI cable. * Midi OUT from the HD500 to Midi IN on the M9 The two units should talk to each other (patch changes) without any additional setup... unless the default midi setting have been changed.

If it were me... and I couldn't afford the 500, I would look for another used XT or X3 to hold me over rather than going for a 300/400. YES - the HD can sound better after you take the time to learn it... but it doesn't have the features of the older XT and X3. With the HD500 you will overlook the missing features A) because it sounds better & B) because it's extremely flexible in how you lay out the chain - which is a great feature of it's own. The 300/400 still limits your chain flexibility & they lose a boat load of features. Aside from the sound (which is debatable), I think you would feel like you took a step back. Just my 2 cents...

In the "signal flow" view you have the ability to assign any footswitch to any effect block. Simply set the same footswitch number to the blocks you want shared. The state of those effects can be the same, or reversed from each other with the footswitch as well. It takes a moment to get used to it, but it's really easy.

That is the complete opposite of what the vast majority complain about. I never owned the XT but I did use an X3 live for many years which I believe was the same models. I recall the amps sounding dull and lifeless compared to the next generations. Again... the opposite of what you are suggesting.

Out of curiosity, what was in that patch... and how complex was it (ie: snaphots changes, instant commands, ext controllers, etc...) That's a good "gotcha" to watch for. The one time I had my HD500 go into a repetitive boot cycle it stopped (and booted normally) once I unplugged my Variax. @Phil110567... Are you connected to any other devices beyond a guitar and amp when this happened?

I use an HD500 and an HX Effects.... all my eggs are not in one basket. In my ultimate setup, both units work together but if one of the units failed I also have each unit setup to work as a stand alone. I know this question is more about the HELIX though, which is meant to be a stand alone. If I had a Helix my plan would be the same as it was when I used the HD500 on it's own. I have a Zoom G3 that used to get hauled to each gig as a backup. They are about $100 used, small enough to slip into an existing case, sound very decent and are built surprisingly tough. In a pinch I know I can always get through a night with my G3. Before my HD500 I used the X3 Live.... back then I carried two units (got a 2nd one for dirt cheap) so if one failed the other was a 100% replica. Knock on wood.... I have never needed to resort to my backup plans.

I've never had this happen... and hope it never does on a gig. Pure speculation, but I believe the patch you are on when it freezes is the corrupt one... and the problem is that when the system boots, it always loads the latest patch... which in this case is corrupt. There are boot up procedures to clear patches, restore factory etc... but yes, that's the end of your night as you know it. If my hunch is correct, what we could use is a boot option that "clears the existing patch"... rather than all patches. Or a boot option that "always boots to patch #1" that we can choose to leave blank if we are really concerned. I can get by without one patch...and I can always store backups on the unit itself. As for what causes it... your guess is as good as mine. What makes up your patch? Is it DSP heavy or does it use a lot of snapshot changes? Do you have a copy from HX Edit you can share? With the list of users that have the HX freeze, it would be interesting to see if there is something in common .... Once the problem can be reproduced, it can be avoided and better yet, fixed by L6.

Word of caution... standard MIDI (DIN) is self contained and works from device to device while USB midi requires a host. USB MIDI is great with computers, but generally speaking you cannot go from device to device with USB midi as it needs a host device (often a computer) to manage the signals. I suspect in the future there will be more devices that can double as a USB Midi host... but at this point the options are very limited, relatively expensive and/or experimental.

If you are looking for the older version of Workbench on the Line 6 site it won't show up if you limit the OS to Windows 10 in the search. Change the OS to Windows 7 and it will show up... even though it works fine in Windows 10.

Yes - I guess it has been that long since I've seen them.... Steve was in the group when I saw them.

Or why producers and sound techs don't like guitar players - LOL!

This is a great resource... thanks for sharing.

I just answered another thread with the same problem. For the most part, my HX works as it should... but in some locations the capacitive switches will trigger at inopportune times. My belief is that this is a humidity difference from location to location. Do you really need capacitive switches when playing live? IMO - they are a luxury when setting up the unit, yet a possible annoyance in a live situation. I just turn mine off when I go to do a gig then never worry about it again. You can turn them on/off in the global settings.

IME... the environment I am in can sometimes wreak havoc on the capacitive switches. I always wear shoes/boots when I play, and most of the time they work as they should... but in some locations my HX will jump to edit mode at inopportune times. I believe this is caused by differences in humidity levels... but I could be completely out to lunch with that thought :) I get around it fairly easily. Capacitive switches are a luxury when it comes to editing but when I really think about it, I don't need them live! I turn them on when I am working on the machine at home or in the studio. On a gig (or in a practice if it's acting up) I turn them off and don't think twice about it.

When I'm having a bad day I take a break... then come back and approach it differently. Not sure about you... but if I head down a path with the wrong attitude (eg: this thing sounds like crap) I will never get what I am after. Usually I get an "ah-ha" moment when I am not trying so hard. It takes a while to wrap your head around the concepts and techniques of going to FRFR. You are no longer using an "amp in the room", you are now adjusting your guitar from the producer / sound tech's perspective - it's completely different and takes some time.