rd2rk

2927

The ASC does not have 1/4" Inputs, so OP has no choice but to use the XLR Outs from the Helix. The XLR Out from the ASC is (from my reading of the minimalist manual) specifically intended for the purpose OP is using it for. OP - I would contact support at Friedman.

If the Harbinger is a powered monitor, this should not happen. However, if it's passive, it could be a protective thing in the ASC, preventing the amp from trying to power too low a load. You said the Harbinger is really loud, which implies to me that there's no volume control, which likely means it's passive. Does the volume control on the ASC control the Harbinger's level when it's on? Although the volume control could be before whatever wiring trick is causing the ASC to cut out. I'm not sure of much here, but I am pretty sure that the XLR out on the ASC is NOT intended to be used with a passive speaker. You might have to contact Friedman for affirmation.

I imagine you'd do it the same way as with live people - tell the robot to "Pause Playback", tune up, then tell the robot "Resume Playback". You might need to get a separate little MIDI button box thingy like this: https://www.morningstarfx.com/mc6-mkii

The Z12 sends only Program Change messages. You can use it to change presets, but that's about it, as Snapshots are recalled with CC#s. Even then, you won't be able to load presets in any but the current Setlist, as the Z12 does not send Bank Change messages. Sorry, should've got the Helix Control board.

Karnak the Magnificent predicts that Helix will be safe to update in the year 2927. Best to wait. Meanwhile, after playing on his fully updated Helix Stomp while posting these amazing predictions, Karnak returns to playing on his fully updated Helix Floor. :-) ;-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-)

60db is essentially the level of normal conversation. Sounds to me like the THR10C might be your best bet. Stomp headphone out into the THR10C's AUX In will probably sound great. Stereo line outs would also work, try both and see what sounds best.

Short cable runs (<20Ft) there's little difference between 1/4" TRS and XLR. Longer runs there's less chance of noise with XLR. If you standardize on XLR for connections to FOH/AI, the 1/4" outs are available for connection to stage monitors/guitar amps etc. You have a Stomp, so it's not an option. Mic level is what most FOH engineers want to see. If your AI is overloading at line level switch to Mic level. If the signal to your AI is weak, switch to line. It's all about gain staging. I always connect from my Helix Floor to my Scarlett 18i20 with XLR cables, with the level set to Mic. Works for me, no changes required when I play out with FOH support, and I use 4cm with my tube amp on stage. Phantom power is intended for use with microphones that need to be powered (condenser mics). IIRC, prior to the Stomp, using a Helix with Phantom power turned on introduced noise. As I understand it, the Stomp doesn't have that problem.

ADD TO PREVIOUS: In my first response I mentioned the difference between near-field and PA speakers. Studio monitors (and small systems like the THR10C) are optimized to sound best with the listener at a fixed position relative to the speakers. For instance, with studio (near-field) monitors, the speakers should be 1.5-3 meters apart, with the listener's position being at the apex of a unilateral triangle with the speakers. Obviously, the 3" speakers in the THR10C are not nearly so far apart, and the optimum listening position needs to be considered accordingly. PA speakers like the HR FRFR series are intended to cover large areas. there's a minimum distance from the speakers where the sound of the speaker blends with the sound of the HF Driver. That ideal position will be farther from the speaker than in the case of near-field monitors. When I'm playing through the Rokits I'm standing 5-6 feet away. The FRFR112 always sounds better from across the room.

Again, it's totally dependent on your specific environment. Try this. You probably have a smartphone. Go to the app store and get a db or spl meter. Turn your stereo up to the loudest you'd ever want/dare to play your guitar at. What's the max db level you're seeing? At my apt complex, the rule (8am-10pm) is that if your noise level is clearly audible out on the landing, it's too loud. That's about 70-80db inside measurement. Taking into account Fletcher-Munson, I use the Contour switch on the back of my FRFR112 (+3db low/high boost), and it sounds OK. After 10pm the level needs to go down to 50-60db (there's less ambient/external environmental noise). The FRFR112 makes enough noise that I can still have fun, but if I want to play along to backing tracks it's headphone time. After midnight it's headphones only. An FRFR108, having a smaller speaker, MIGHT sound better at lower levels. TBH, at lower levels the difference in the QUALITY of the sound (FRFR112 vs Rokit6 studio monitors) is minimal, with the Rokits having a slight edge due to being stereo. Lee Anderton (Anderton's Music) for many years raved about the sound of the THR10C which he used on the desk in his office. Sorry I can't be more definitive. Try the db meter tests I described. Keeps me out of trouble!

You're not lokely to see them compared because it's like comparing apple and oranges. The THR10C is two 5 watt amps powering two 3 inch speakers in stereo. It's purpose designed as a very low volume, near-field practice amp. There's no FX loop, so your stomp is colored by the pre-amp. It does, however, have a USB port so you can record to your computer DAW. The HR FRFR108 is 2000 watts into an 8 inch speaker and HF compression driver. It's purpose designed to deliver high spl to a large area. There's no USB port to connect to your computer. If you're living in an apartment with grumpy neighbors or playing in your bedroom and don't want to wake the baby, the THR10C set clean, and/or with just FX from the stomp is probably your best bet. If you're OK with 70+db and/or want to be able to jam with your friends, the FRFR108 will work.

It's called "Snapshots". When you change Presets, the stuff that's making the sound is unloaded from memory before the stuff that makes the new sound is loaded into memory. Snapshots change just the settings, so nothing is unloaded from memory, thus no interruption in the audio signal. Just one of those unfortunate facts of life. I read somewhere that the GT1000 (or was it Headrush?) doesn't do that. I'll stick with Helix, thanks!

Didn't you just post this on Ideascale, as noted in your nearly identical thread?

Don't much like it. Expensive (if you want the whole package including the amp designer) and HORRIBLE MIDI! Less than stellar support, too. EDIT: Don't sell your floor. You won't be happy. A false economy in the long run.

YES! Don't know how I forgot this. No pre amp effects, but the best sounding amps of the bunch, great MIDI, and great post amp effects (delays, mods, reverbs). Cheapest of the bunch too, with free trial. The Update will be here any day now, and it'll be GREAT!

For a good computer based, stand-alone guitar rig I recommend either Amplitube or THU. Both sound great and work well with MIDI. TH3 plays profiles (Overloud made - can't create them). .

Keep the hardware.

Post it over on Ideascale - I'll vote for it!

BUMP

I'm not sure what you mean by "render" and why that makes a difference? I have recorded wet/dry with Helix and re-amped the dry track with Native. I can't tell the difference. YMMV.

Correct on all counts. Unless you use a REALLY crappy interface, (or you'r a certified tone-sniffer) pre-amp coloration is negligible. A WAH in front of your interface works fine. Again, quality matters.

I think that they SOUND the same. Others disagree. So, the answer is Yes. No. Maybe. That definitive statement aside, a plugin is NOT the same as analog hardware. Some will say that the "feel" is different. Well, DUH! A plugin will ALWAYS have latency. Anywhere from 4ms to 20 ms or more, depending on how powerful your computer's processor is and how much you spend on your interface. Helix is a decent interface, but has more latency than my 2nd Gen Scarlett. At a buffer/samples setting of 48/64 (i7 laptop) I get 7.6 ms Round Trip in Reaper with the Scarlett, 12.5ms RT with Helix. Other more expensive interfaces have even less. A more powerful system might allow 32 or even 16 samples, faster yet! Can you feel the difference between 5ms and 12.5ms? Maybe. One thing for sure, it feels different than plugging straight into your amp, and that feels different than plugging into your amp through a Helix (or any other digital effects unit). IIRC, a single AD/DA conversion takes <5ms. Guitar to Helix/Helix to Amp = <5ms. Helix/amp fx loop = <5ms. That's <10ms right there with a Helix and a real amp. Guitar to AI/AI to Amp <5ms, plus whatever time it takes to get from the AI thru the DAW/Plugin (7.6ms Scarlett) = <13.6ms? Can you feel it? I feel it. It's called a HEADACHE! OK everybody, weigh in with your opinions. The point is it's real, it's there, and it bothers some people so much they won't allow any digital stuff into their rigs. I can live with it if I'm on the road with just a laptop, but I prefer using a real Helix at home (currently 4cm with a tube amp or straight to a HR FRFR112) and using Native for re-amping. Going back to a pure analog system is no way worth the hassles involved. The only way to know if it will bother you is to try it. Here's a good article on the subject: https://www.soundonsound.com/techniques/living-latency

First, make sure that the Loop Block Button isn't also turning off the Delay and Reverb. I know, but I've done sillier things than that! If that doesn't fix it, try loading the attached preset. You might want to start with the BIG KNOB set very low. I built it on my 15 watt Egnater Tweaker set clean and Marshally and it was loud. When the Loop Block is turned OFF it turns ON a Badonk Preamp, a Gain Block, and boosts the Output, all to accommodate the fact that the Egnater preamp is WAY louder (at 10 oclock on the pre and 2 oclock on the master!) than the Badonk pre with the Channel Volume dimed. With the BIG KNOB at about 1/3 that's 75db@6ft. More than that my neighbors get pi$$y! Keep me updated. Loop Example.hlx

In 4cm, Your guitar goes to the Helix IN, The Helix FX Send goes to the Amp In, The Amp FX Send goes to the Helix FX Return (make sure you're using the same FX LOOP!), and the 1/4" Mono Out goes to the Amp's FX Return. The FX Loop Block goes between the front of amp fx and the fx you want in the Amp's FX Loop. The behavior you're describing indicates a fault in the wiring.

We can agree to disagree on that.