rd2rk

What cruisinon2 said. I have the Fremen big pack - lots of presets, some good ones, nothing that really rocked my world, but I learned a lot that helped me with finding the sounds I like. That's the real value of Other People's Presets, and if you start with Jason Sadites' Customtone presets and his videos, you'll learn what you need to know to DIY!

UPDATE Just heard back from Josh at support: "Hi EJ, we've logged this with our QA team to improve the looper function on next Helix/HX update." Line6Josh So, we're not crazy, the function changed with one of the recent updates, and now that they know, they'll fix it, we hope, in the next update!

From the M-Audio website, here's the specs for the "carbon" (BX8): https://www.m-audio.com/products/view3/bx8-carbon And the D3: https://www.m-audio.com/bx8d3 They're both bi-amped - 70/60 for the Carbon and 80/70 for the D3. The D3 is the "latest greatest" and may have slightly better overall specs than the Carbon, but otherwise the features appear to be the same. As near as I can tell, the HF/LF speakers are identical. It's hard to tell from the official specs, as they are stated differently, but if the speakers are actually different, M-Audio is not really stressing that. They are also not providing frequency charts for either. I'd go with the "latest greatest". You might try calling their customer service/pre-sales info line (if they have such) and try to nail them down about the actual differences in the speakers. Good luck with that. For playing your Helix through in your bedroom and as a home recording starter mixing solution either would probably be fine but, again, I'd go with the "latest greatest".

Don't know what kind of places you play, but keep in mind that computers tend to be finicky about electricity, and the Helix Floor is a pretty expensive computer. Without power conditioning you could be back here asking "Why does my Helix floor do these weird things/crash/lockup/make noise?" or, worse yet, why did it wind up completely fried during that thunderstorm. A small powerstrip/surge suppressor can fit in your gigbag or guitar case, and it's relatively cheap insurance, as well as a very logical solution to needing two wall sockets, possibly on the same circuit as the fluorescent beer signs. Just sayin'.

No, but you could add two switches (cheap) with one of these: https://smile.amazon.com/Footswitch-Pedal-Switch-SWITCH-MOSKY/dp/B07GV72FF8/ref=sr_1_12?crid=CDOZ6C4J0VQ4&keywords=footswitch&qid=1574870233&s=musical-instruments&sprefix=footswitch%2Cmi%2C175&sr=1-12 Or get a lot more functionality with a small midi footswitch, though these can get pricey.

Don't know if they have these for 240v - https://smile.amazon.com/Cablelera-Power-Extension-Splitter-ZWACPQAG-14/dp/B00FRODUR4/ref=sr_1_1?crid=3DO2UARYCJROF&keywords=power+cable+splitter+2+way&qid=1574869669&sprefix=power+cable+splitter%2Caps%2C172&sr=8-1 Consider what chasingMango said about power conditioner/surge protector. Downsizing is all well and good, but have you heard the saying "Penny rich, pound poor?"

Hope you've backed up recently. On the bright side, last time I got that message, I shut down HX Edit and restarted Windows. That re-initialized the drivers and all was well.

Sometimes what a programmer thinks is intuitive (guilty!) is anything but to a user. In HX Edit, if you change the name of a preset, you don't have to hit Return, or save the preset, just moving to another preset saves the new name! I hope that little things like this get passed up the chain.....consistency in a UI is important to a user's overall experience.

Official Line6 Wishlist: https://line6.ideascale.com/

Yes, it would appear to require 2 button presses. I think when he says "seamless" he means that in the context of the rest of his workflow and instructions - you're not loading a new preset, so there's no audio drop, and Snapshot Edits is set to RECALL, so the stomps remain in whatever state he's got them in between snapshots. He apparently feels that, for his purposes, it's more important to have his stomps available for other effects, and two button presses is NBD. There's no reason why you can't sacrifice one of the 10 stomps to toggling the ambient swell if that works better for you.

I believe that they're for hanging the speakers in permanent installations. There's another one on the back near the power cable socket.

Page 49.

It's probably made for one of the full size Helixes, but no way to tell without more info.

If you've got 4cm wired right, use an FX Loop S/R and assign it a footswitch. That'll take your amp's preamp out of the circuit. You can always add an EQ on the same footswitch (toggle one on, one off) to fine tune your clean.

Sorry, my bad. Thinking of a different Akai Pad controller.

Set the Base channel to something other than the channel that the amp receives on. You'll need to mod your Snapshots to send ICs on the former Base channel. IOW, if the Base channel is 1, the amp is receiving on 1, set the Base channel to 2, then set your ICs to send on channel 1 instead of Base. You could also do the reverse, set the amp receiving channel to 2, then set your ICs to send on 2. Depends what else you've got set up in your MIDI chain.

Pads send NOTEs only.

That device is specifically intended to be used with the H9 and Digitech Whammy. Those devices have not been modeled on Helix, and likely never will be. The Helix Pitch models are nowhere near as capable. If you're trying to use Helix to control the actual devices as though you have a Pitchy, you would need to know EXACTLY what MIDI commands are being sent by the Pitchy before I could even begin to think about whether it can be done with Helix.

You can do some amazing and extremely complex things with MIDI. There are people who, with a few keyboards and pads, perform entire symphonies - SOLO! Fortunately, for using Helix products, life is simple, one MIDI command at a time.

AS noted by HonestOpinion, California is ahead of the curve on environmental issues. The reason that warning gets laughed at so much is that it pretty much gets applied to anything sold in California because it's so general as to cover most anything, and the lawyers advise that it gets posted to everything, just to be safe, which pretty much renders it a useless joke. All it really says is "Life is 100% guaranteed to result in death."

Yes, it is about using a hub. Proof? Do what I suggested and the problem will go away. The problem is caused by the way Windows deals with USB ports. How do I know? My AI and Helix are plugged directly to the laptop. 7 other midi devices are connected to a hub. My mouse dongle and external HD are connected to another hub running off a type "C" connector. I use LIVE, Reaper and Cakewalk regularly, and others occasionally. I got no problems like you got. People who don't care about how the manufacturer of a device say to use it, then wonder why they have problems........

Most laptops have more than one USB port. Both of mine have three. Plug you Helix in directly, use the hub for other stuff. Your problem is a result of violating rule #1 of using Helix with USB - DO NOT USE A HUB! Once you've fixed your LIVE sets, the problem won't recur. Just don't use a hub with Helix.

No. BUT.....You could replace/supplement the Moskey with a small external midi controller and do whatever you need to do.

You can assign a CC# to control the min/max positions of heel and/or toe. You can use an expression pedal (midi or attached as a third exp pedal) or a static CC. See page 42 of the manual, "Controller Assign". You can also use snapshots.

In Global Settings>MIDI/Tempo, turn OFF MIDI PC Send. That prevents Helix from sending it's default PC. In your Presets, in CommandCenter, use an Instant Command (the lightning bolt) to specify the PC# you want to send on Preset Load. That's it!