rd2rk

Are you using stereo (TRS) cables for the footswitches? Do you have the TRS settings correct in Command Center? Are you using the HX FX effects loop, or the Ins/Outs? See Manual Pg 39 "Global Settings>Ins/Outs. Experiment with the different Inst/Line settings. Engl manuals use a lot of words to convey very little useful information. They REALLY want you to use their proprietary switches.

Looking at the differences between the Rack and Floor (which is what I have), I'm going to STRONGLY recommend that you buy the Rack Controller. I know, costs a lot, but trust me, controlling the Rack with the FCB will be a royal PITA. That said, for now, forget the Helix. You're asking about using an FCB1010. Which chipset is in that? If you have Stompbox mode you must be using AT LEAST UNO v1.0.2. The exact version is important, as it determines which editor you can use. You NEED to use an editor. The sysex is the configuration of the FCB1010, downloaded as a file with the file extension .syx. You should be able to download it from the editor that you're using. IF you're using v1.0.2 or below, you can use these FREE editors: https://mountainutilities.eu/fcb1010 http://host.mtnsys.com:81/faq-fcb/PCEditorBeta.htm If you're using v1.0.2f or above those editors are not fully compatible, you'll need to buy this one (approx $22): https://www.fcb1010.uno/ UNO_ControlCenter is the best of the bunch. Whichever one you get, READ THE MANUAL!!! Attached is a sample sysex demonstrating some ways to go about using the FCB1010/UNO with the Helix Rack. The sysex DOES NOT use the Helix Stomp mode. Until I know which chip version and editor you're using, it would be pointless to go there. The text file has notes as to what the various pedals do. Bank 00 Pedals 1-5 are the Looper controls, minus FORWARD/REVERSE and FULL/HALF SPEED, these being the least useful IMO. Pedals 6-10 are FS1-5. This configuration allows you to record a rhythm loop, then add effects on subsequent overdubs. Bank 01 is FS1-10. Bank 02 is Snapshots 1-8. Banks 03-10 are Presets 000-069 (01A-18B). That's right, you lose access to 58 presets. Depending how you want to use the first 3 banks, you can recover some, but even under the best of circumstances, 100 presets is the max with the FCB, 95 with FCB/UNO. It's possible, using UNO Stompbox Mode, to have 5 Footswitches on every Bank (Same 5 on every Bank), 5 Looper controls on Bank 01, 5 Snapshots on Bank 02, and 5 Presets on all other banks (total 85). It all depends on how you want to do it. Lastly - I tried this with my Helix Floor. It can be made to work, but here's the catch. The Floor (like the Rack Controller) has Scribble strips which indicate the status of, well, EVERYTHING! I have NO CLUE how you're going to keep track of the various Looper controls without Scribble strips, never mind what preset, snapshot or effect you've got on, without standing in front of the rack staring at it's tiny little screen! Did I mention that this would be a royal PITA? Buy the Rack Controller, or trade the Rack for a Floor. Let me know when you figure out what chip and editor you're using. Mariodoc62 syx.syx Mariodoc62 Text.txt

Nor do I. I don't care about groundhogs either, as long as they stay off my lawn! I actually like the L6 originals just fine. They're TOTALLY accurate, too! Hum and all.....

This is one of those "groundhog day" discussions. As I understand it, the idea of modeling is to create an accurate model of a real world amp. If the real world amp hums, then an accurate model of that amp will hum. They aren't modeling the hum, the hum is a result of the model being an accurate model of the original amp, which hums. If you take the hum out, it has to change something about the way the amp sounds and, therefore, it is no longer an accurate model. If you provide the user with controls which modify the amp model to remove the hum (hum/ripple), the argument then becomes "but it doesn't sound like the real amp when you do that!" DOH! SHUT UP AND PLAY YER GUITAR! (but not on my lawn!)

Which chip/version is in the FCB? What editor are you using? Attach a copy of your sysex for me to look at.

You could get a mini midi foot controller like the DMC micro. CC#68 with values of 0/127 turn the tuner on/off. Or you could use the Mr. Miyagi method. Just think "Tuner ON"/"Tuner OFF". "Tuner ON"/"Tuner OFF". "Tuner ON"/"Tuner OFF". "Tuner ON"/"Tuner OFF"............... I think there's a joke that starts "You can turn a tuna on, but....." EDIT: OOPS! Just noticed you've got HX FX not HX Stomp. My Bad! Midi suggestion still applies.

Get an external exp pedal and assign it to the Pitch Shift. OR...here's an example preset showing the assignments necessary. Whammy-Wah.hlx

No, you weren't getting the preamp at all, your guitar was going into Helix, then out to the amp's FX return, bypassing the preamp entirely. Glad you got it working.

Don't know why this preset should behave differently than any other, maybe some sort of corruption. I never use MIDI from Ableton like that, I set up my Snapshots to send the proper MIDI using ICs on each Snapshot, then record the MIDI from the Helix. Tell the truth, I'm not even sure how to do that (automation from Ableton), since I use Reaper for recording. I only ever use Ableton to play back loops into Reaper.

If you're correctly wired for 4cm, you gotta have a corresponding FX loop or the signal just goes straight to the output block and on to the amp's FX Return, bypassing the amp's preamp section and thus, you don't hear the changes. Pop an FX Loop Block in there and (assuming correct wiring) it should work as expected.

Is there an FX Loop Block in the signal chain?

S/PDIF is digital, RCA is analog, two different animals, not compatible. If you're more than 20' from the mixer, use XLR to minimize noise. Otherwise, normal 1/4" cables will be fine. I would use XLR in either case, leaving the 1/4" available for when you inevitably go back to using a guitar speaker and amp. The XLR cables will also be useful when you connect to an actual FOH system. Not that the Behringer is guaranteed to sound bad, but having tried a variety of solutions, I can't see that it will be satisfactory in the long run. Just my honest opinion, YMMV.

I always use the editor, so I can't say when it got weird. It worked fine when I first got it. When I saw your post I went and tried it, took 3 pokes, but then it worked every time. Let it sit for a while, still works. Changed presets, still works. Shut down for a while, fired back up, still works. Maybe mine had virtual rust from lack of use? You're not the first to report this, so it is a thing, but as to cause I haven't a clue. I don't think it was caused by the update though, or everyone would have the problem Time to call support.

Split the Path at both ends so that there's 2 Output Blocks. Path B will be USB 3/4. Take the DAW input from USB 3. USB 5 is UN-processed, USB 3 is PROCESSED.

Further to my previous post - Although what I said will fix the problem, if you find latency to be an issue, use the Apollo, it has better latency than the Stomp. I wasn't talking about the Monitor switch, that HAS to be ON to hear the VST. The Output block on the Stomp goes to the 1/2 HW outs, no matter what, no choice on the Stomp. That means that it's combined with the DAW output. The only way to prevent that is to set the Output Block Level to -120db (virtually silent). I think when he said that he applied the VST to a track he'd "created" he meant just that, not "recorded".

You're hearing the preset direct out to the Outputs, PLUS the signal from the DAW. When you use the stomp as a sound card for VSTs, create a "VST" preset with the Output Block set to -120db. Then bring in the signal on USB 5 (Left/Mono input).

First you INSTALL HX Edit. Then, AFTER you run the updater, you can LOAD HX Edit for use. You just don't want HX Edit loaded WHILE updating. Glad you got it done. Call support about the joystick.

Blue means that the Helix Tempo is being controlled by an external clock - in your case, the beat buddy.

FW=FIRMWARE, that code that lives on the hardware itself, vs the SW - software program that runs on a computer when loaded. HX Edit is SW. It interacts with the Helix FW. The versions need to match for it all to work. If you installed HX Edit using the HX Edit install file, it loaded the proper drivers and the "Line6 Updater", which is used to update the Helix FW. With HX Edit CLOSED (not running), and the Helix connected directly to a USB port (NOT A HUB! If you're using a desktop, the ports on the front are usually a hub - use the ports on the back), run the Line6 Updater. After logging in, it will update the firmware on the Helix. REPEATED FOR EMPHASIS - FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS! Otherwise you'll be back here pleading for help like all the other turkeys who thought they didn't need no stinking directions!

Backup your custom presets and upgrade to v2.82 FW. FW and HX Edit have to match if you want it to work. FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS FOR THE FW UPGRADE!

Done repeatedly. For the sake of redundancy: Every living thing is born, grows old, and dies. That's life. Helix is not alive. It sounds good today, it'll sound good in 10 years. Buy it because you like it. In X years there'll be a new model, but you can't buy it now. Putting off your purchase waiting for it is a never ending cycle. FWIW - L6 just spent a great deal of time and money standardizing the underlying architecture of the entire Helix line. The purpose being to make updates and improvements easier and faster across the line. Does that sound like they're about to drop the line for a new latest greatest? Lastly, analog in this context pretty much means tube amps. Tube manufacturing is environmentally irresponsible. IIRC, there's only four major tube manufacturers left in the world. Many of the transistors and other components used to make the classic effects are no longer manufactured. NOTHING is forever. Live in the moment, tomorrow is not guaranteed.

I don't own a DT25, but fro a quick look at the manuals: Using quality XLR cables, connect the The Helix L6 Link socket to the DT25 L6 Link socket. Connect the Left/Mono XLR (or 1/4" Left/Mono) socket to the FRFR. If you have two DT25s and want stereo, connct an additional XLR cable between the Amps.

Step 1: DL the manuals for each piece of equipment. Read them. Simplified instructions: Connect the guitar-amp-HXFX using the 4 cable method (4cm): Guitar>HXFX Input>HXFX Send1>Amp Input> Amp FX Send>HXFX Return1> HXFX Output> Amp FX Return. Set up the HX FX chain like this: Wah/OD/Dist and other PRE amp FX>HXFX Send/Return1 Block>delay/reverb and other in-the-loop type FX>output block Connect the Laney DI to the 2i2 Input (or FOH). Connect the 2i2 Output to your Monitors. Connect the Laney Speaker output to your guitar speaker cab. The Captor seems redundant in your system, but maybe I'm just not imagining what you had in mind when you bought it. If you use it, connect the Captor Amp Input to the Laney Speaker Output with the Impedance switch set appropriately (RTM). Connect the Captor Outputs as needed (RTM). The Laney's Channel switching can not be controlled directly from the HX FX. The 5 pin DIN on the Laney is NOT MIDI. It IS possible to use the HX FX MIDI capability to do this using a VDL (VooDoo Labs) "Control Switcher" and a custom cable, which may be available from VDL. Lots of research and RTM here, as Laney obviously wants you to buy their proprietary footswitch. You'll need to find the pinout for the DIN connector. If you choose to go this route let me know and I'll explain using the Control Switcher. Lastly, refer to Step 1.

2 amps require 2 blocks. You assign the same switch to both (if you want to toggle within a Snapshot), then save the Preset with one ON and one OFF. That's Snapshot 1. Then change to Snapshot 2, turn the one that's ON off and the one that's OFF on. If Snapshot Edits (in Global Settings) is set to DISCARD, SAVE the Preset BEFORE switching to a different Snapshot, if it's set to RECALL you can make all your Snapshot edits and THEN save the Preset. Save the final Preset on whichever Snapshot you want on when you load the Preset. If you use 2 Amp+Cab blocks, that's two blocks. However, it's pretty DSP intensive, and you may be very limited as to what else will fit in the Preset. If you use an Impulse Response (IR) Block with Amp only Blocks (no Helix Cab), you can select a different IR for each Snapshot. That's 3 Blocks (Amp+Amp+IR) and, depending on the amps chosen, might be about all the DSP your poor Stomp has. Again, very DSP intensive, and you need to use IRs to do it, you can't use the Helix Cabs, as Helix Cabs require a separate Block for each. Your best bet is to find an amp that has a nice clean and a nice distortion, then use Snapshots to set the Gain and Tone Stack accordingly for the range of sounds you need. Basically, like using a real amp, but with the quick changes allowed by Snapshots. Then you can use OD/Distortion blocks for different colors/types of distortion or fuzz. You'll be amazed at the variety of sounds you can get out of a single amp this way, and still have DSP available for Reverb, Delay, Mods, etc..

In Global Settings>Ins/Outs>USB 1/2 Destination set to MULTI.