rd2rk

I don't get it. You need to have the actual Helix attached in order to use HX Edit. You're looking at the real thing. Why would you need a picture?

I'm confused. 1) the thread title is ".....still not fixed". Have we worked on this problem before? 2) You say you've been using this configuration for a long time with no problems. What changed? IF you opened a Support Ticket, then they're looking at it. Of course, you're assuming that it's a Helix problem, not user error. If you're asking for help with the problem, attach your preset and I'll have a look at it.

Line Level. Here's the manual. Page 7. Do report back, like to know how it sounds. OK, too big to upload. Here's a DL link: https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1426078/Laney-Lfr-112.html

0=ON 127=OFF Should be a LATCHING/TOGGLING CC#68

If all you say is true, then this is the first serious and verified hardware design flaw that I've seen (apart from the funky USB connector). I hope you've made L6 aware of this. There's no reason people should have to buy expensive add-ons to correct a design flaw in an advertised feature. I would LOVE to hear what L6 has to say about this, so if you haven't contacted them yet, please do, and please post back with their response.

Are both guitarists playing similar sounding guitars with lots of OD/Reverb/Delays/Mods? For instance, 2 overdriven FX drenched LPs both playing power chords through Marshall half stacks (even though virtual) against a heavy handed drummer on a stadium kit makes it difficult to define a frequency range for each instrument. Throw in a bass player who's too loud and doesn't have any definition above 80hz, you've got a perfect recipe for a mud pie. That's a worst case scenario of course, but things to think about.

That'll work, just don't set it to XLR only. If, down the road, you want to send a signal to FOH while using the Fender on stage, set it to 1/4". That'll send a steady UNITY signal to FOH while you control your on stage level. Your sound man will thank you.

Global Settings>Ins/Outs Manual Page 52

Your Send/Return levels should be set to whatever gives the best S/N ratio. Some amps' FX loops like Instrument, some prefer Line. I have a Floor model, so I'm not exactly sure what the Volume Knob controls on the LT. If you set it to 1/4", then the XLRs send UNITY, and vice versa. For use direct to power amp I set it to 1/4" so that I don't have to run back and forth to the amp to control the level.

The best way is 4cm. Remember how complicated it was learning to tie your shoes? It's not that complicated. If you decide to go front of amp, set the 1/4" out to Instrument. If you go into the power amp, select Instrument or Line based on which provides the best S/N ratio. When going to the power amp the first time, make sure the Helix volume knob (set to 1/4" or Multi) is down and the Fender Master around half way. I don't know if the Master is part of the Power Amp or not, and 40 watts will make a BIG noise. Make sure the Helix Volume Knob is NOT set to XLR. Using 4cm, you can use the Fender Preamp for what it does best - clean chimey Fender goodness - and with a single pedal press have a raging full on metal amp, or anything in between. Maybe you don't need that kind of flexibility, but it's good to know it's there. No, you can't turn off the Helix amps Globally. FWIW - I use Helix with an Egnater Tweaker 15-112 Combo (6v6), 4cm, on the Fender setting. I like it.

We like what we like, no shame in being able to afford it when we find it! In your case, learning proper lifting technique goes hand in hand with learning to dial in YOUR tone..... :-)

The answer to why is.....MAGIC! As for pedals, if you plug a pedal into a real Fender Twin it's not going to sound the same as plugging it into a real JCM800 and that'll sound different than running it into a Boogie MK V, and how you've got your Boogie configured will effect the way the pedal sounds etc etc.. There's no such thing as "this pedal sounds exactly like this under all circumstances and in every configuration. Add to that you've got an amp that probably only you and a dozen other people in the world have (I nearly choked when I saw the price), so you're not likely to find an example on YouTube of what any specific pedal sounds like through that amp. There are lots of YT vids of people being baffled in AB comparisons of Helix pedals vs the real deal. If you look hard you can probably find vids of people who SWEAR than Pedal A is the real thing when both pedals are identical, simply from different production runs. Famous in that context are Muffs and Rats. And, oh yeah, then there's the speakers. The same Celestion V30 speakers sound totally different in a Marshall 412 vs an Orange 412 vs a Mesa 412. Some people SWEAR they can tell the difference between an English V30 and a Chinese V30. And on and on. Here's the rule, in either the analog or digital world. Try it. If it sounds good, use it. If not, keep trying. If nothing sounds good, then that piece of gear is not for you. Sell it and move on. As a wise man once said - "If you try, sometimes, you get what you need!". Or not.

There's a Loop Return Level control on your amp. Is that turned up? I'm sure you've read this, but if not: Effects Loop The OD-100 effects loop is a tube buffered series loop. The effect send jack is always active and acts as a low impedance tube buffered preamp out capable of driving a wide variety of devices from low level pedals to line level “rack” gear. The level appearing at this jack is dependent on the setting of the Channel’s Level 1 or Level 2 controls, whichever is selected. The loop return, it’s gain stage and level control are only in the signal path when a plug is inserted in the loop return jack. An additional tube gain stage is provided here to compensate for lower settings of the Channel Level controls when low level effects are used. The return jack and level control also act as a “Power Amp Input” when using just the power stage of the amp. At this point it is worth mentioning an internal power stage “presence” control which effects the high end “voicing” of the power amp of the OD-100. This is not to be confused with the Channel 2 Presence control which only effects Channel 2. This internal trim effects the overall Presence of the amp (both channels) and is set at the factory at about 1 o’clock. When using the effects loop, the rear panel return level control acts as the amp’s overall master volume. Unity gain for this control is about 1 o’clock. You can check this by plugging a short patch cable between the Loop Send and Return jack. Plug and unplug the end going to the Return jack while noting the level difference and adjust the Level control until you hear no difference in level. You can take advantage of this additional tube gain stage even if you use no effects in the loop by keeping the short cable plugged into the loop. The Return Level control on the rear panel will now be the overall Master volume of the amp and the additional gain provided by the loop return circuit will make the amp louder.

My car broke down. Now I don't drive. But that's OK. I read that there are criminals on the streets. Sometimes they break into people's houses. I sit at home with a shotgun in my lap. I'm worried that if the monsters come, I'll run out of bullets. Then I'll have to drive my car to get to the gun shop. What if someone steals my car while I'm in the gun shop buying bullets? I'll have to call an Uber to get home. What if the Uber driver is a serial killer? My shrink tells me I worry too much. I'm pretty sure my shrink is a Dalek......

AND the wiring is correct? What make/model amp are you using?

Use the setting that sounds best/least noisy.

Starting with the assumption that you're using the FX Loop Block that corresponds to the physical SEND/RETURN that you're connected to: Assume FX Loop 1 is used Guitar>Helix Input>Helix FX Send 1>Amp Input>Amp FX Send>Helix FX Return 1>Helix 1/4" L/Mono Out>Amp FX Return Is the Helix VOLUME knob up? Is the Amp GAIN up? Is the Amp MASTER up?

I'm still reading that you're not using the HW because the SW doesn't work right (for you). You still haven't rebuilt the preset ON THE HW, which would be the best way to prove that it's the SW, NOT the HW, that is at fault, OR, that the entire platform, HW AND SW, that is defective. Do you want to know or not?

Yes. Since you mentioned being primarily a bedroom player, I should point out that it WILL NOT fluff your pillows. Perhaps in a future update.......if that's important to you, vote for it on IDEASCALE. :-)

You're still ignoring the fact that the Helix Hardware is not necessarily the same as the software. You claim knowledge of other users' first hand experience, yet in this very thread users have reported things that fail in HX Edit, yet work when performed on the device itself. You haven't tried that. "The SW doesn't work right, therefore the HW must be defective". That is not even logical. "I'm only following orders" hasn't been a valid defense for a long time. In a small, highly competitive market, it would be foolish for Yamaha to behave in the way you imply. I'm not angry. Being angry about someone else's paranoid delusions is a waste of time. I'm trying to help you figure out the problem (HW, SW, or both?) so that you can get the benefit of the fine piece of gear that is the Helix. But if you don't really WANT to know, my opening bid of $100 still stands.....

What you're doing is insisting that there's a problem with Helix, while ignoring what I and others are saying. You have NOT built the preset from the ground up ON THE HELIX ITSELF! You're using software running on a computer. Take the last step, the one you're avoiding. BUILD THE PRESET ON THE HARDWARE! If, AFTER building it on the hardware, you still have the problem, THEN you can argue that the platform is defective. If you're not willing to do that then by all means dump the unit. It's not like we have any investment in your success or failure, but most of us got no problems like you've got, which indicates to us that the problem is not Helix, but MAY be a problem with HX Edit. Try it. It's the only thing you HAVEN'T tried. What have you got to lose? BUT....if you're truly done wasting your valuable time on this defective platform from a heartless uncaring manufacturer, I'll be happy to open the bidding on your POS Helix. $100! Do I hear $125?

?????????? Sounds like you're confusing hardware and software. As others have asked, have you tried building the preset from scratch ON THE HELIX ITSELF? WITHOUT HXEDIT, thus eliminating the possibility of this being a problem with HXEDIT and/or your computer? Be a shame to not use an expensive piece of hardware because of a glitch in the SW Editor or the way the editor interacts with your computer, which won't be on stage.....

I understand your frustration, and you're entitled to your opinion, as am I. My opinion of the above statement is that it's bull***t from someone who hasn't got a clue and really should just list his Helix on Craigslist and move on. We've tried to help you, as I'm SURE (based on my experience of L6 support) the support techs did. Now you're just being rude.

No. Are you aware that the LED will only blink in sync with Reaper when the Reaper Transport is running?

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