rd2rk

Using snapshots to do this, there is NO fade. Is there any reason to do it any other way?

I wouldn't call it a bug. I'd call it amazing that it worked at all. If you'd like to be able to do that consistently, call it a feature request and post it over on Ideascale.

Already asked and answered:

HUH?

FINALLY! THE MOST IMPORTANT THIS vs THAT VIDEO EVER MADE! Three absolutely, undeniably and indisputably factual and objective takeaways which once and for all put an end to all debate on the subject! FIRST: There IS a tube amp made by Fender called Princeton! There IS a modeling amp made by Line6 called Spider V! There IS a modeler made by Line6 called Helix! There IS a profiler made by Kemper called Kemper Profiler! SECOND: The guys who made this video are TOTALLY CLUELESS! Despite having been presented with objective proof of that, they went on to voice further meaningless opinions, as though anyone should care. THIRD: Someone, somewhere, likes at least ONE of the sounds that each of these devices makes. WOW! EARTHSHAKING! How did guitar players ever survive before YouTube?

In Reaper, Mute your Master so that only the Hardware Sends assigned to each track are sending signal.

In Global Settings - Ins/Outs check the levels on the Sends. They should be set to LINE.

Instead of using separate FX Send and Return Blocks, use a single FX Loop 1 Block. Assign a Stomp/Bypass switch to it while it's ON. Assign the same Stomp/Bypass switch to the Helix Amp Block when it's OFF. SAVE the Preset. It doesn't matter which of those Blocks comes first, just that there's nothing between them. When The FX Loop Block is ON and The Amp Block is OFF the signal bypasses the amp block, goes into the BS preamp from the HX Send, out the BS preamp to the HX Return. When the FX Loop Block is OFF and the HX Amp Block is ON you're bypassing the BS preamp and none of it's controls will work, the HX Amp Block is your Preamp. Try it.

Correct.

Yes, that will send a PC at the beginning of a clip, but that's the only way I've found to do it. You can't record an extensive track with multiple Program Changes, and the manual method you've cited ONLY works at the BEGINNING of a clip. I searched the manual, and that's all I found. You know of another way?

If it's still doing that after you update, send me a copy of the preset. I'm on 2.82 and couldn't get it to flip, even after holding for a whole minute.

Again, dunno about the "connection Interrupt" message, I'm not getting that. Not only haven't I been able to record Program changes in LIVE (piece 0' cake in Reaper), but according to the LIVE manual, there's no way to do that, and the only way to send a Program change is at the beginning of a clip, by entering it manually. Waiting to hear from meizhuo, who may know a trick......?

Yes, that's what I'm talking about. Recording Audio is easy, but MIDI in Ableton is a problem. I'm using LIVE 10 Lite because I have no real need for Ableton, and no way I'll spend real money on the suite when Reaper does more easier than Ableton. Unless you're into EDM and need the clip grid function, which I simply channel into Reaper using Rearoute when I need it. If there's a trick to getting LIVE to record and playback MIDI, let me know. Attached is my LIVE MIDI Prefernces configuration.

FS1-11 = CC#49-58 Value 127=ON Value 0=OFF Toeswitch = CC#59 I imagine that if you want all the stomps to switch at one time without using snapshots you'd need to use separate midi tracks.

Dunno about LIVE (live 10 Lite), I can't get it to record or play back to HX Stomp. In Reaper, took two seconds to set up, works fine every time. I'll have another look at LIVE later when I get back from errands.

If I understand you, create snapshots with the required Stomps active or bypassed, then in Reaper send the snapshot MIDI (CC#069 + Value 0-7 for Snapshots 1-8). Since Helix does not by default send the Snapshot MIDI, you can't record it directly as you could with Preset changes (PC#s), so you'll have to enter it into Reaper's MIDI track manually at the correct point in time.

Correct. You're actually better off using the 6i6, digital connect and all around more possibilities. One further advantage with the 6i6 that I forgot to mention - on my 18i10 I can set up discrete custom headphone mixes (5 mono/3 stereo). Not sure on the 6i6, but you should be able to get at least 4 mono/2 stereo on the 6i6 - play around with the Control SW mixer and see!

If you get the hardware, the buffer settings on the interface are irrelevant because you'll be monitoring your sound directly from the hardware. The only purpose of the interface then is to bring the sound of your Helix into the DAW for recording. You don't actually even NEED the interface (keep reading) because Helix IS an interface. However, the interface will allow you to record with a second player using hardware, and allow you to record your playing over streaming (YT, Spotify) or backing tracks stored on your computer on separate tracks. NOTE - in order to record the backing tracks AND your playing on SEPARATE tracks you need to route the streaming signal from the computer's sound card into the Interface to bring the signal into the DAW. If you get a full size Helix you'll also have the option (with your 6i6) to record using S/PDIF (digital), which theoretically gives you a cleaner signal (eliminates an AD conversion), and frees up an analog input for other players to join you (using hardware). Think jamming with friends on keyboard, bass and eDrums and if the vocalist has an FX unit you could record a whole band, monitoring the performance BEFORE the DAW - NO LATENCY! IOW - the only computer based restrictions will come about if you're playing AND monitoring through VSTs. The NATIVE VST (which is much cheaper if you own the HW) would then be used only for re-amping. If you're unfamiliar with the term, it's possible to record a CLEAN/UNEFFECTED track alongside the effected track from the Helix, then use NATIVE to play around with applying other sounds to that clean track. The other restriction caused by your old/underpowered computer would be the number of tracks you could record and type/# of VST FX you could use on those tracks being limited. SUMMARY - getting the hardware is superior to using NATIVE alone on EVERY level, NOT just sound and feel, and allows you to optimize the capabilities of both your excellent 6i6 AND your old underpowered computer, which becomes simply a recording device. EDIT: the S/PDIF outs are only available on the Floor and Rack models, not on the LT. All else still applies.

Additional thoughts over coffee: CC#0 is "MSB" - Most Significant Bit. According to the MIDI Chart (Page 113), this parameter is not used. This is also true of Helix, although Helix can SEND this parameter if needed. Your device has 1024 presets/128 = 8 Banks - just like Helix. In order to recall a specific preset you need to send CC#32 (LSB - Least Significant Bit) with a VALUE of 0 (bank 1) to 7 (bank 8), followed by a PC# 0-127. CC#32 Value 3 + PC#21 recalls preset #21 (the 22nd preset) in bank 4. (0=1,1=2,2=3,3=4......) You can see how this is implemented on the Helix by pressing the Preset Knob, selecting a Preset, and looking at the values displayed over the second knob below the display. In addition to the 1024 regular presets, there are an additional 128 presets available in MULTI MODE. My assumption is that to recall a preset in MULTI MODE, after activating MULTI MODE, you either: Send the PC# (0-127) without CC#32 (since there's only one bank in MULTI MODE) OR Send CC#32 Value 0 + PC#0-127 in the name of redundancy. My money is on the first method (no CC#32), since that's how it works everywhere else in MIDI World for single bank devices. Typically, once you've used CC#32 to select a Bank, you can then select any preset in that Bank without re-sending CC#32. That's why when you send CC#0 (MSB), which is not used (ignored) by your device, the PC# you send will select the corresponding preset IN THAT BANK, which is Bank 0 (1) by default. If, in Helix Globals - MIDI/Tempo - you set MIDI PC SEND to MIDI, when you select a preset in Helix it will send the PC# if the preset is in the current Bank, or the MSB/LSB Bank numbers PLUS the PC#. Perfect sync! Still drinking coffee, if I think of anything else......

I had a quick look at the manual. In MULTI MODE: Set MIDI to RECEIVE Set PRG CHANGE to RECEIVE That's all I got!

OK, I just dragged over my FCB1010 with the Helix sysex loaded. Changing snapshots via MIDI DOES NOT turn off bypass. Sending any other Stomp message via MIDI DOES turn off Bypass, and setting FS5 to control Bypass works as expected.

I don't presently have my external FS4/FS5 switch hooked up, but I assigned the bypass function to FS3, and it worked as you described. Switching snapshots turned off the bypass. Actually, pressing ANY switch turns it off. Don't know how that would work with MIDI though.

Runs fine on my W10, 8gb i5, with EZDrummer, while I'm reading my eMail, with HX Edit also running. See what I mean that even with similar specs, all processors are NOT equal? I should also point out that I have no idea your level of computer knowledge. Your system could be totally hosed behind the scenes, with all sorts of squandered resources, and not at all optimized for audio. You might want to check your startup programs (whats running in the background): https://www.howtogeek.com/162446/how-to-manage-startup-applications-in-windows-8/ and google "optimizing windows 8 for music production". Heck, maybe you don't need to buy anything.....

Now we're back to those pesky technical details. Do you want a laptop or desktop? Does it have to be new? Where are you located (used market is better in a larger urban area than in Podunk NE)? As noted, your AI is totally adequate. What KIND of speakers? 3" computer monitors, 5 or 6 or 8" Studio monitors? Sub? Define "MIDI Keyboard"? Will you be wanting to control the VST with a footswitch? Note that Native doesn't yet switch presets via MIDI except in Logic, despite what L6 said publicly. Support ticket open. $1000 is a lot of wiggle room. You could get a new Helix LT for a few dollars more. You could get a Stomp AND a decent used laptop. My advice - now that you know that your current rig won't cut it, do some research. Keep in mind that a current 10th gen (new) i5 and a 7th (series 7000) or 8th (series 8000) gen i7 might be near equals in performance for your needs. Avoid AMD - my personal opinion is that they're great for gaming. 16gb Minimum memory. More is always better. SSD Operating System Drive - 256gb minimum. Bigger is always better. Windows 10. The naysayers are happy with what they've got. Good for them. W10 is the best, most stable Windows yet, and I've been supporting Windows systems since Windows ran on DOS. Think about not only what you want to do TODAY, but where you MIGHT want to go TOMORROW!

You MIGHT be able to relace the processor, but keep in mind that each new generation of processors is (usually) accompanied by improvements in the support chips, bus speeds, etc. It could turn out to be an expensive partial cure. What's your budget?