rd2rk

Best Practice, for sure. I pointed it out because I so often see people recommending the Amp Channel Volume for leveling presets. Just something to be aware of once you've carefully gain staged a preset.

So, fill us in (help the next guy). What was wrong?

Typically, to use MIDI in a DAW you first create a MIDI track to bring in the MIDI from the FCB, then point the MIDI track's output at the track with NATIVE on it (or directly at the NATIVE instance itself, varies with the DAW. The MIDI track may or may not need to be Record Activated and/or have Monitoring set ON). At present, preset changes in NATIVE via MIDI can only be done if you're using AAX/AU type plugins. AFAIK, that means ProTools or Logic. I'm on a PC (not MAC) and only have ProTools First, which doesn't allow 3rd party plugins. I can say for sure that it doesn't work with the VST version of NATIVE, as tested in Reaper, Ableton LIVE and Cakewalk. Bypass, Expression Pedals and Snapshot changes all work fine with the VST version in those DAWs, and should work fine in Cubase.

The Amp Block's Channel Volume will affect everything downstream, so I prefer to use the Output Block, or a Gain Block right before the Output Block.

My PRS Custom 24 has the stock HFS bridge PUP. I recorded a short bit (same chords) in Reaper using your preset, then rendered it to mp3. Result attached. It sounds different from your recording. I have no idea what's going on in your setup, what pups your PRS has, etc.. One thing I do note, it sounds like you're playing to a delayed signal. Like, you're waiting to hear your last strum before you play the next. I'm not sure how that helps. My 2204 Test.mp3

No rules! But, not a usual thing to do. I have a preset that doesn't use an amp, but uses an IR. Why? Because I like it!

Make sure that MIDI THRU is OFF. Might not solve the problem, but worth a try.

This is one of those subjects that's been done to death. Search for FRFR. MANY MANY suggestions! Do it over on TGP for even more.

I set the amp to it's "sweet spot" (not so important on SS amps), and set Helix Volume to control final output. Some people claim that unless you max the Helix Volume (unity gain) it sounds different. I don't hear it. YMMV.

Hardware Input just means you're routing an AI Hardware input to the chosen AI Output. SW Playback means you're routing the Track Output set in your DAW to the chosen AI Output. If you've got the PDF manual, attach it here and I'll see if I can help with the translation, but I couldn't find anything except the useless Quick Start guide at NI.

Since the Blues Jr doesn't have an FX Loop, you're going to be using the Helix like a regular pedalboard, into the guitar input of the amp. Think of it that way. Just as you wouldn't want to mic an amp into your amp, you don't want to use a full Helix amp - Amp+Cab - into your Blues jr.. Doesn't mean you CAN'T, but presets made for FRFR or amps with FX Loops aren't likely to sound good. You can, however, use a Helix amp like an "amp-in-a-box" pedal. Just either use a Helix pre-amp version, or an amp without a cab, whichever sounds best to you. No rules. That said, basic rules (realities?) of modeler use: 1) All factory presets sound like crap to me/you. 2) Nobody's Customtone presets sound the way we want them to. That's because everybody else's presets are made with different guitars through different playback systems in different rooms. Now that all the Helixs are on the same core code, you can go on Customtone, search the HX FX presets, and find other people's pedalboard ideas. Unfortunately, too few people bother with descriptive notes, so it's kind of a crap shoot, and lots of them are made for amps with FX Loops. Just for kicks I DL'd a few non-FX Loop presets to try. I ran them into the front of my Egnater Tweaker 15 Combo, set up to be Fendery. They sounded awful. YMMV.

Or the app writers write error code to prevent the crashes. I won't hold my breath either way! Cool app though.

Short answer - Probably not. The devil is in the details. Recommended - DL the manual from the L6 Support area to get a full picture of Helix's routing capabilities. I suspect you'll need a proper USB mixer/AI. I have a Scarlett 18i20 and using Reaper, do what you're describing and more.

That is way cool! You wrote that? I don't have any Androids, but that kind of app might make it worth getting one!

You mean HX Edit on a Windows tablet, or...?

If both the Helix and the BCR2000 are connected to the computer by USB, and the Helix and the BCR2000 are directly connected by standard MIDI cables, and MIDI THRU is on........starts to look like a London traffic circle!

The Helix Control controls the amp switching THROUGH Helix Rack. Don't forget to read the warnings!

If that doesn't help, you may have squirrels. No, really, they're a thing. Search here and on the digital and modeling forum on The Gear Page.

Disclaimers: I do not own either NI Komplete Audio 6 or Studio One. I own Scarlett 18i20 and Reaper. You'll need to translate to your device. I looked for the manual for it, but apparently it's a state secret. The easiest way to re-amp with Helix is to spend $99 on Native, that's how I do it. I decided to try to do it the way you're doing it because I know it can be done and wanted to see if I could get it to work. I'm crazy that way, and if the results of my struggle with this help you out, cool. Notes on the Scarlett 18i20: The Scarlett has 10 hardware inputs. Inputs 9/10 are the S/PDIF. It has 12 hardware outputs. 11/12 are the S/PDIF. The 18i20 uses the same mixer SW as the 6i6, and I imagine the I/O Channel #s would be relative. 8 HW Inputs makes S/PDIF Channels 7/8; 6HW Outputs makes S/PDIF Channels 5/6. The 6i6 is similar to your device, but YMMV. First Steps - Helix Recording Preset Two paths, one effected, one clean, both Inputs set to Guitar, both Outputs set to Digital, one Output panned hard left (S/PDIF 1), one panned hard right (S/PDIF 2). Alternately, you could have a big preset with 1A into 1B, then split off 2B with Guitar Input and your second Digital Output. Re-amping Preset Input S/PDIF, Output Digital DAW - Reaper Track 1 Effected - Input S/PDIF 1, Output Master. Track 2 Clean (DI) - Input S/PDIF 2, Output S/PDIF (Outputs 11/12) and Master Track 3 Re-amp - Input S/PDIF 1/2, Output Master Master Output 1/2 Mixer/Audio Interface - Scarlett 18i20 Here's where the complications ensue. In order to get this to work, I have my Monitor outputs set to Software Playback 1/2. That's the Master Out in Reaper. ***S/PDIF Outputs 1/2 set to Software Playback 11/12.*** ***MUTE this Channel during initial recording to prevent digital feedback (NASTY!). UN-MUTE to enable re-amping. I think that's it! BUT....it's getting late, time to sleep. Hopefully, I won't re-read this over coffee tomorrow and go "OH NO! If he does that all the magic smoke will escape and he'll be very angry!" Seriously though, keep your monitor /headphone volume low until you've got the bugs worked out. I wasn't joking about that digital feedback being NASTY!

From the Helix manual Command Center section: IMPORTANT! Connect EXT AMP 1/2 only to amplifiers that utilize "short-to-sleeve" footswitch inputs. Connecting to any other sort of input could cause permanent damage to both your amp and Helix! If you're not sure if your amp has short-to-sleeve inputs, contact the manufacturer. IMPORTANT! The Helix device's ability to control external amp channel and/or reverb switching has been tested with many popular amps and heads. Unfortunately this does not guarantee compatibility with all products. Note that, depending on the circuitry of the channel switching jack in the guitar amp used, the EXT Amp function may not operate as expected. NOTE: When an Ext Amp command is assigned to Instant 1-6, the connection determined by Knob 2 (Select) is made when the preset is loaded. When an Ext Amp command is assigned to a footswitch, the footswitch's current state (dim or lit) determines whether or not the External Amp connection is made when the preset is loaded; when dim, no connection is made; when lit, the connection determined by Knob 2 (Select) is made. Subsequent presses of the footswitch toggle the connection on (LED lit

After a quick look at the Digitakt manual, the simple answer as far as I can tell is: you can't. The Helix Looper can be controlled via MIDI using CC (Continuous Controller) messages (page 57 of the manual). While it appears that the Digitakt can be CONTROLLED using CC messages, it can only be programmed (as far as I can tell) to SEND MIDI NOTE messages. If you're planning on using a computer in your act then there's software that can turn NOTE messages into CC messages: https://www.bome.com/products/miditranslator Is one. I believe that they also make a programmable HW device that allows you to eliminate the computer for performance. If you decide to look into these, keep in mind that there's a price to be paid in latency, though I don't know how significant it is, or whether it would matter for your purposes.

3) Yngwie

Since I abhor anything MAC, I've been waiting for the MAC kids to jump in here. That said, MIDI is MIDI. If the Helix is communicating with LOGIC (you can send a command to control SOMETHING), then if you can be step-by-step VERY specific about what MIDI commands need to be sent and when, I can probably help.

I like to think of the Helix MIDI implementation as an ongoing project. Unfortunately, since the only MIDI nerds who seem to be interestedare you, me and some dude in Podunk, Idaho, L6 is not likely to be putting a lot of resources into it. If you put it on Ideascale, post a link here. I'll vote for it! Don't know about the Podunk dude, I think he has a metered Internet connection.....

That works! Unfortunately, it's a very limited workaround, as it limits the number of MIDI Controllers you can use to the number of unused Expression Pedals available. Better than a poke in the eye with a sharp stick.... Thanks phil!