dbagchee

Yep that will work and is actually a pretty cool idea!

Thank you! That fixed my problem.

Oh man so tempting to update now but will wait until after the gig this weekend!

The list from the "fully loaded" page (cabs in bold): http://store.line6.com/software/hd-model-packs/hd-fully-loaded-bundle.html Included Amps: Peavey® 5150® (Block logo) Bogner® Shiva Remastered Marshall® JCM800 (Model 2204) Line 6 Insane Line 6 Big Bottom Line 6 Variac'ed Plexi Line 6 Purge Line 6 Aggro Line 6 Smash Line 6 Octone Roland® JC-120 Fender® Champ® (Tweed) Orange® OR80 VOX® AC30 (Fawn Normal Ch.) VOX® AC30 (Fawn Bright Ch.) Roland® JC-120 2x12 CAB Fender® Champ® 1x8 CAB Line 6 Acoustic Pete Anderson Custom Ampeg® SVT® Normal Ch. Ampeg® SVT® Bright Ch. GK Gallien-Kruger® 800RB Ampeg® SVT® 8x10 CAB Ampeg® SVT® 410HLF CAB

GearGods tends to be pretty sarcastic ;)

Only the HD500X firmware has been released, us HD500 users will have to wait a little longer - hopefully only a few weeks.

Good article and video! http://geargods.net/interviews/in-the-axe-fx-vs-kemper-debate-twelve-foot-ninja-chooses-line-6/

Oh no, I feel G.A.S. coming on!

mdmayfield, I'm not sure what the "true" volume makeup you need but with those settings it sounds the same (to me) as plugging in the guitar direct. NinoScholz, Yes that is definitely the easiest way to run it and how I ran it for many years. The last year or so though I really wanted to get to use my amps pre. It's a constant battle though because I do hate the extra cables!

Ha ha I hear ya! I still have my Vetta II and Shortboard - I'll never be able to beat the simplicity of that setup!

Help for 4 cable method here: http://line6.com/support/topic/12666-4-cable-method-does-it-really-work/

I put all of my cables into a pedal python (http://pedalpython.com/) and it's a huge help for setup. I'm actually running an extension cord in it as well so I can power the HD500. I just picked up a Voodoo Lab control switcher to switch my amps from the HD500 midi so I'll need to re-wrap my cable to add one more for it - 6 cable method!

Yes it works but like you've found the setup is not intuitive. The main issue is that the FX send has a 6db drop in level so the input of your amp gets a weaker signal than it would straight in. The fix is pretty easy though. Here are two of the most straightforward options: Run the FX Loop block after the mixer block. Turn up the gain on each path 3db. Run a studio EQ just before the mixer block. Keep the EQ flat but raise the gain 6db. In both cases keep the FX loop send switch set to stomp and output level switch to line. Hope that helps!

I believe what is happening is that since you've recorded a really short loop, when you start recording again it is loop recording that short segment so the layers build up quick and the volume will start building up quickly. If you record your pad at the same length as a full measure of what your are playing you should get better results. One trick to get a smooth transition for your pad is to record your initial loop without playing anything and start your pad on your first overdub - that way you don't hear a skip when the loop starts over.

If the FX loop is on in a patch but no cables are plugged into the send and return you will end up with a muted signal (the routing is sending the output to the send but since there is no signal back there is no sound). All you need to do is remove that block from the patch and you should be good to go. With the DT25 and L3 you should need to mess with midi at all - you can either use the standard audio outputs or the Line 6 Link output. Since the DT already has a tube power amp, it is recommended to use the "pre" models since that will duplicate a standard setup (1 preamp, 1 poweramp) - that said, there is no "right" way and if it sounds good to you using the full amp model go for it. For me I've found that at low volumes the full amp sounds better and at high volumes the pre sounds better when running into a real tube amp/power amp.

Beat ya by 2 minutes ha ha

The Pod HD send has a 6DB volume drop so you need to boost the signal just before the FX loop effect block. There are a couple ways to do it but I'd say the most popular two options is with a studio EQ just before the FX block, or move the FX block right after the mixer and boost the mixer 3db per side. This video covers it in depth: I run it this way with several of my tube amps and it is very transparent. I really wish Line 6 included an amp control jack, it would've been so convenient!

How do we know which levels the master volume was modeled at? Is there a reference somewhere? I didn't know that about the Recto.

You should be able to get a pretty ripping sound fairly quick with a power amp/cab setup. I say this because if you set it up this way you are taking most of the variables out of the modeler: Set output mode to stack power amp Pick an amp pre (treadplate or fireball are probably good starting points) and set all knobs to noon Turn cab modeling off Set output level to line Turn power amp up (if tube) past 50% and use the master volume to set your overall volume Hold off on FX for the moment. Keep it real simple. Honestly just this should sound pretty darn good assuming you have a quality cabinet and power amp.

Very nice! Looking forward to the videos as well.

Same problem.

Took a quick pic of the new "Panama" model at NAMM. Sounded good! http://imgur.com/7Jx1anQ

How did I miss the new model pack info at the NAMM booth yesterday! I will be back today!

They would probably work best between the FX send and amp input. That's the typical spot for most people.

Yeah I get that - but typically you are putting your foot on the pedal anyway right? Trust me one button preset switching is critical for me since I sing and play guitar in my band but I've found this to not get in my way. But I can see certain circumstances like if you want to jump in with the whammy at a specific setting etc.