cruisinon2

Those things were a travesty, lol...like putting strings on a shoe box and a 2x4.

Dogs barking can't fly without umbrella...😉

Because it ain't that simple. Yes, it's a bolt-on, but that doesn't mean much of anything. Strats and Teles are both bolt-ons made by the same company, but the neck dimensions are different, and they're not interchangeable. There's no guarantee that any readily available replacement neck will fit the neck pocket. In fact, it's rather unlikely. And even if you did find one with a heel that drops right in, fret spacing and positioning relative to the bridge is critical. With a new neck, if the distance from the last fret to the bridge changes significantly from the stock neck (and it wouldn't take much), your intonation will be wildly off. There may or may not be enough travel with the bridge saddles to compensate. This can be a problem swapping necks even when they're both the same scale length. It's entirely possible that you'd end up with a guitar that's impossible to intonate. There's always the option of finding a quality luthier to build you a custom neck, but that generally isn't cheap.

It ain't that simple. There's no guarantee that any readily available replacement neck will fit the neck pocket. In fact, it's rather unlikely. And even if you did find one that drops right in, given the stock scale length, the if the distance from the last fret to the bridge changes significantly (it wouldn't take much) with a new neck, your intonation is gonna be wildly off, and there may not be enough travel with the bridge saddles to compensate. There's always the option of finding a quality luthier you build you a custom neck, but that generally isn't cheap.

I can't speak to this guitar in particular, but I own a 7 string with a 27" scale...it's definitely different. You settle in after a few minutes though.

Don't hold your breath. There are already 3 JTV models, plus the Variax Standard in standard scales lengths.

Amen. Every "My ________ sounds like crap with helix" thread is a waste of time. The reasons why Player A with "X" model headphones hates the way it sounds, and Player B with the same cans thinks the tone was hand deliver by a choir of angels are too numerous to bother contemplating...and nobody is "right" or "wrong". There's no playbook for this stuff. Turn knobs until it sounds good to YOU, because you're the only one who knows what "good" means anyway...failing that, try a different pair of cans.

Hype indeed...everybody is now trotting out their version of "the most corrosion resistant and durable strings known to man", with (of course) a "revolutionary wire drawing process". They're promising a 90-day run, and they'll replace the set if you bust and/or rust them. I'll take that bet...I sweat battery acid. The day that I get 3 months from a set of strings, I'll join a monestary...

You shouldn't have to register the unit at all to download stuff from Customtone. You just need an account, and be logged in... which you already are.

Amen. The fact that the parameter is there at all is amusing to me. Who's turning the "hum" UP? Has anyone had occasion to say to themselves, "This tone would be perfect if it just had some useless, extra noise"?

There's nothing mysterious about the terminology. A "send" routes the signal out of the device into something else, and the "return" routes it back in, that's all.

Perhaps. Either way, it is/was a lousy design. Constantly coiling around itself while in use, and didn't hold up with regular gigging The Bestronics one doesn't do that...that's all I know. If this one dies after the same amount of time, then I'll happily concede that it's no better than L6's cable, but I'll be surprised if that's the case. With this one there's also the added bonus of being able to choose any length you want. The old one was either 25 or 30 ft...personally, I don't need anything that long. This ain't deep sea fishing. Got a 15' one that's more than adequate.

Seems unlikely that I was sold a 2004 era cable in 2013, but I suppose anything is possible...

Cables live on the floor, getting dragged around and stepped on. They gotta be able to take a little punishment. If they're flimsy enough, it won't matter if you keep them in a fleece lined silk bag, and lull them to sleep with supportive, nurturing bedtime stories...they won't last. I've got 20 year old 1/4" cables that you couldn't bring down with a .308, and that first VDI lasted me 2 years before it crapped out completely....and it wasn't abused any more than any other cable I've ever had. The outer shielding/casing on that thing is way too thin, and it tangles like a pair of ear bud wires. I wasn't surprised when it died.

Yes and no...you'll get a cable that is intended only for connecting to a computer for firmware updates and to use the Workbench software. It is short, fragile and designed specifically for use with the stupid USB dongle that should also be included. It's nowhere near sufficient for gigging, or even playing casually at home or rehearsal. You'll end up damaging the connection to the guitar and/or the POD. You'll need to buy a proper VDI cable. Get this one: http://btpa.com/98-030-004-XXX.html The "real" L6 VDI is sub-par, imho. This is much more robust. A little more expensive per foot, but it lasts.

Don't ever buy a used car...with that philosophy, you'd go in looking for a '69 Mustang, and they'd talk you into a 3-legged mule with a seizure disorder.

This topic is more over-thought and over- analyzed than anything else that gets discussed around here, and for the life of me I will never understand why. Through 25+ years of playing through rack-mount preamps, multi-fx units, and modelers...all I ever needed was ears. Leveling volumes is not mysterious, and dB meters are just shy of useless. Why? Because the mid-boosted lead patch that registers 85 dB will always SEEM louder than the heavily scooped rhythm patch that also measures 85 dB. And both of them will blow the doors off the crystal clean tone at 85 dB, because distorted sounds are always perceived as being louder than cleans. The numbers don't matter...perception does. If Tone A "sounds" louder than Tone B, then it is... no matter number some meter vomits at you. Blame Fletcher and Munson. 1. Listen. 2. Turn up or down accordingly. 3. Hit "save". 4. Play the damn thing.

I think this is part of the issue for some. I've used a variety of low impedance cans without issue. If one's various input and output levels are set appropriately there's no clipping, and nothing should be farting out on you. However, if you're determined to crank the volume to 11, then perhaps you'll have issues with lower impedance cans starting to distort. Personally, I can do without the extra ear fatigue (and faster onset thereof) that comes with stupid volume.

I thought he was talking about the nut. Guess I forgot how to read the other day...lol

Let's have a "most irritating font" contest...

Mind control port...for after the govt chips us all, and had us showing up for weekly thought downloads. ;)

It's all perception and personal preference, like anything else. Plus, headphones are a wearable item, and everybody's got a different sized/shaped head. If a given set doesn't fit very well, or is otherwise uncomfortable, that'll color your opinion of them, too. I've had headphones that were excellent, and I've tried ones that I thought were absolute crap, regardless of price. And there is exactly ONE way to find out. Buy and try...

Amen. Assuming that the Helix is not malfunctioning, ALL headphones are gonna sound different than monitoring methods that aren't sitting right on top of your head. And no two pair of cans will sound exactly the same either. It's EQ, like everything else.

None...you don't need it. Most if the time it'll just make things worse. If you were plugging in an actual acoustic, or micing one without a piezo pickup, you'd be going straight to the PA or recording console. A little reverb and perhaps some EQ is generally all you need. Keep it simple.

Thank you sir!