cruisinon2

Sandwich bag...;) And buy 2 or 3 of em when you get there, just in case. I stripped a screw replacing a clutch cable just the other day...assorted profanity plus a 20 minute round trip to Ace Hardware, and I was back in business. Honestly, you'd probably be done with the whole thing before somebody gets back to you with the right size, lol...good luck!

Them's fightin' words, lol...;)

If all else fails, pull out another one and take it to the hardware store...

If you haven't already done so, try opening a support ticket directly through this site and explain the problem with your local repair facilities...maybe L6 can help you directly. You might end up having to pay for shipping to or from the US, but it's better than being out $600 and stuck with a useless device.

I'm writing that one down....lmao! ;)

Lol... Helix could probably have run every system in the LEM, with enough processing power left over for a leper colony in Calcutta.

I'd say something's wrong... I won't pretend that I know what to do about it, but mine took about 15 minutes, give or take.

I second that...the Revv is a home run. Well done, sirs.

Well it took a while, but at last Godwin's Law proves true once again! On the count of three, everybody... 1....2....3..."Reductio ad Hiltlerum!

The word you're groping for is "imminent"...

I predict a boring Super Bowl and pointless existential angst over the National Anthem...;)

Ugh...we need 350 million pairs of big boy pants ASAP, or this society is finished...

I'm no luthier, but I wouldn't think it would matter... the inlays themselves I think are rather thin, no? Can't imagine you'd be removing so much wood as to cause instability in the neck...I don't think you'd even route all the way through fretboard, much less actually be removing material from the neck itself.

The only problem with that set-up is that you invariably wind up with tyranny of the minority, with a handful control freaks constantly reporting every innocuous post. This isn't a kindergarten at nap time.... formal "shushing", no matter what the source, shouldn't be necessary.

Well you only have to do it once, and the alternative is re-leveling everything between home and gigs/rehearsals. The former is far less work in the long run.

Yeah, volume is of paramount concern. And the percieved loudness of one patch to another is what matters, which is why meters are of little to no practical use. But regardless, the percieved loudness of different frequency ranges is a weird phenomenon which varies drastically with volume... and with clean vs dirty tones, as you discovered. A dirty tone will always seem louder than it's clean counterpart, even if they both register the same on a dB meter, again demonstrating their limited utility...so always set your clean volume first. Also, since the decibel scale is logarithmic, you need to do all your leveling at (or very close) the volume at which you intend to use your patches. Otherwise every time you switch gears between home and gig levels, your relative patch/snapshot volumes will be all over the place again. I gave up years ago and now I just keep separate set lists for each scenario. It's more initial grunt work, but in the end it saves time, aggravation, and constant back and forth tweaking.

There's adding a "insufferable a$$hole" filter?!?!?!?! Well I was excited before, but now I'm positively giddy with anticipation. Fingers crossed that it'll be a global setting... ;)

Which part of this is the non-insult? Never mind. I'm wrong, you're right. I concede, am appropriately ashamed, and I humbly repent. That do it for ya?

Gotta hand it to you... you managed to backpedal and get in another dig at the same time. The enlightened are often skilled manipulators... chastising here, having "sympathy" there, and the occasional "no, no that's not what I meant...I didn't insult you, I was merely 'interpreting'. I feel for everybody". Must be a hoot to play the brigand and white knight simultaneously. I bet it works most of the time, too. But despite all the tap dancing, the underlying sentiment never changes. We get it. You're smarter and more evolved... and deep down you feel bad for us and hope that one day all us poor savages might get "woke", too...

Why is it that all of you discipline fanatics can't manage to have a discussion without hurling insults? You're all the same... infatuated with "proper" behavior, right up until you disagree with someone, then out come the brass knuckles along with the sanctimoniousness and narcissism. It's also quite the assumption festival you've got going. "I read it as"..."He's probably of the opinion". Got any more recycled Psych 101 deep thoughts you'd like to heave from the pulpit, Rev? Don't like what I, or anyone else has to say? Fine. It's no skin off my a$$. And if it makes you feel good to wallow in self- proclaimed nobility because you use the forum "for it's intended purpose", you go on with your bad self, secure in the knowledge that you're a better person. Now if you'll excuse me, I have no life to get back to.

Yes, that's what you'd do... but again, it won't help you answer the underlying question. You'll still have a power source driving a traditional guitar speaker, just like you do now. The only difference is that a power amp and cabinet are physically separate units... if your combo had separate speaker outs, you could drive an external cabinet that way too...Either way would yield similar results, and require the same patch creation approach. And practically speaking, it's the same as running into the FX return of the amp you've already got.

No. You're focusing on pricetags, but money isn't gonna solve this problem. There's nothing inherently "wrong" with the Headrush speaker just because it didn't cost you a kidney. I recall number of guys posting that they are perfectly happy with their's. You could go out and buy the most expensive FRFR speaker you can find, and you're still gonna have work to do for the simple reason that you're not used to it. There are no instant fixes, and certainly none that involve spending money. You're having problems for two reasons: 1) You're dealing with two fundamentally different kinds of gear that require VASTLY different approaches to setting up your tones, one of which you have little to no experience with... that alone makes some problems inevitable. 2) You're not sure which way you want to go yet. You already have everything you need to decide what's gonna work for you... you own both an amp and an FRFR. You need to spend a significant amount of time with both methods, especially the one you're not used to, before you decide anything.. but especially before running out and spending more money on something that ultimately may not help you, no matter how much it costs. I didn't gig with my Helix for a solid 2 months after I got it, until I was good and comfortable with how it works...and I was already well acquainted with modeling, FRFR, and running straight to FOH at the time. Some players will never warm up to FRFR no matter what they do... and that's OK, too.

Dogs barking can't fly without umbrella!

Since you've already confirmed that the power supply itself works, and the base unit functions with USB power, then pretty much all you're left with is the power supply jack on the base unit... there will be a couple of solder joints behind there somewhere, connecting the jack to the rest of the guts... loose solder joints are certainly not unheard of. Before taking it apart though, I'd try another power supply just for giggles... it's the easiest and least invasive way to confirm the jack itself as the problem.

That's the only way it would make sense for the user. You don't need a business degree to understand why the companies like it...they're laughing all the way to the bank. But for anybody who's not running a studio as a business...and let's face it, most of us don't...it's a complete waste.