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OK, maybe it was this simple and obvious... FX100 amp out (mono) to 150 instrument in. Will this overload the 150 input, causing input clipping? What is the level of the FX100 amp out signal? Real specs, with numbers, are helpful ;)

I haven't played my 150 very loud or live, it would likely work fine for a small club depending on the drummer. Not sure what the actual SPL rating is for the 150, given the 150 watts are shared by all 5 speakers. How much power does the 12" get? How are the 150 watts distributed? What is the actual SPL? Of course, the SPL could vary based on how it's measured, but it's useful info IMO.

:P bump. anyone know? see my question in the post above this one ;)

With the AMPLIFi, I use a patch approach and organize my patches accordingly: e.g., a bank with 1) clean, 2) clean with effects, 3) crunch, 4) dist. Bank up / down to get a different set of sounds, with some variations, organized in the same order... at least using my FX100. Still trying to find out if the Aux in on the 150 is mono or stereo? I'd like to run my FX100 as my modeler into the 150 as just an amp...if the 150 dies, I can go direct with the FX100, if the FX100 dies, I can use the modeling in the 150 (...may need a FBV Express II). Backup with identical patches. :) My AMPLIFi kit is sounding and working great for me...though I still have GAS for the Helix. Dialing in tones is brain dead easy with the app IMO. Maybe someday a Helix derivative will find its way into the 150 form factor ;)

Is the aux in on the 150 mono (TS) or stereo (TRS)? This looks like the "best" or easiest way (no changes to any hardware, software) to run my FX100 (as a modeler) into my 150 (as an amp)!

Line level (theoretically) should be higher than instrument level...this should (theoretically) reduce the noise floor when using a line level signal into the input. When set to line level input, my thought was to default to a patch that uses the drive control as an input level control, and the volume control to control the overall output level (as usual) with everything else in the patch off / removed / disabled. I haven't tried the blank patch approach since I don't have control over the input level and the 150 is expecting instrument level in. In the meantime, I have FRFR solutions for my FX100. Another option - would be the opposite - to use the FX100 as a floor controller for the 150 / 75 (similar to the FBV Express) with all modeling from the 150 / 75. I just found this thread, recommends use of the aux in on the 150 for the FX100 out. http://line6.com/support/topic/8599-connecting-fx100-to-amplifi-150/ Anyone know if the aux in on the 150 is mono/unbalanced (TS) or stereo/balanced (TRS)?

I'm using Windows 10, the Line 6 updater sees both my FX100 and 150. To upgrade the firmware, I have to restart the AMPLIFi in update mode, however, the Updater sees my AMPLIFi. Works fine. Try this... Reboot your computer; keep the AMPLIFi off; connect the usb cable; start the updater; then turn on your AMPLIFi. Wait about 30 seconds - 1 minute; you should see it appear in the Updater list. Let us know what happens?

I agree, this is a great point...thanks!

Now, this is why we need the AMPLIFi 150 to have a line level input setting with input level control and master volume control...so I can use the 150 as an amp and my FX100 as the modeler/controller. http://line6.ideascale.com/a/dtd/Line-level-input-to-use-AMPLIFi-as-amp-for-other-modelers/820470-23508 :)

Cool! I hate spending more money than I need to spend (FBV 3 is $50 more than the FBV Shortboard MkII); I just wanted to be sure I wasn't missing anything else functionally...besides the multi-color lights :) FBV3 if I was going Firehawk...but if I need more than AMPLIFi, I'll save for a Helix ;)

Same here, nothing but positive experiences with my FX100 (owned it for over a year, purchased new); and my 150 (purchased new, owned it for several weeks). I'd like to be able to use the 150 as an amp, bypassing the modeling and using the FX100 modeling. :) http://line6.ideascale.com/a/dtd/Line-level-input-to-use-AMPLIFi-as-amp-for-other-modelers/820470-23508

:huh: Sorry to hear...not sure what to do on the flashing light / unable to update? Have you tried a factory reset, then see if it's working? I don't know how Line 6 or the AMPLIFi forces you to upgrade/update? That's your choice,,,AFAIK, older versions of the firmware are still available? I also don't see how it would "brick" if you're not updating, or get an error during updating or there isn't some kind of hardware/software fault/error. I had Bluetooth connection issues last year with my FX100; since updating to the latest firmware FX100 and 150 are working great; I rarely get a dropped connection...works best with iOS for me. I have a crappy Android tablet that has issues, not just with AMPLIFi; my Android phone is a little better.

I think you're going to have people reply yes, no and maybe regarding the accuracy of the models to the real thing. I've been using modeling for several years, and things got less frustrating for me once I stopped trying to emulate the actual gear being modeled. Instead, I now start with amps and effects I think I'll like, and learn what the controls do to the sound I'm hearing, the range and types of sounds, and I take notes of my impressions. Eventually, I'll get through most of the models but I typically find what I like and keep using the same amps and effects until I want to try something different. That said, I think some of the models are close (e.g., JC-120, Big Muff); some are not...so I'm in the "maybe" camp...but it really doesn't matter to me. YMMV

I'm also using Windows 10; which finds my AMPLIFi FX100 and 150; I have to restart the AMPLIFi in update mode to update the firmware, and it works fine. Try rebooting the computer; keep the AMPLIFi off, connect the USB cable, then power up the AMPLIFi. Let us know what happens - or doesn't.

Bluetooth is working flawlessly for me on my 150 and FX100. Android (phone and crappy tablet I got for free) and iOS (iPhone 6S with latest iOS version). Clearly, YMMV. OP, AMPLIFi Remote app works / controls the settings as expected. Maybe your mobile device lost connection with the AMPLIFi while you were editing? For a test, set all the amp controls (except master volume) to mid-point/noon, then create a new user patch with just an amp/cab/mic on, and try adjusting the controls, maybe even extreme settings using the mobile app...if the mobile device is connected, you should hear the changes.