theKennyG

Did the adapter work for you running in El Capitan? Were you having issues with connection to the Helix app/Editor as well or just audio issues?

One addition to that info (for completeness...), the neck profile is the "Standard Thin" profile.

I haven't checked the fret leveling with a straight-edge or anything but so far just playing it's not necessary. Is it as fine-tuned as a plek job? Probably not. However I don't see any issues with it aside from, as cruisinon mentioned, polishing the frets. Even then, I'll probably wait until my next string change for that.

Ok, after finishing the setup this thing plays like a dream! Just amazing! SO worth the upgrade!!

It plays great now with just the truss rod and bridge saddle heights set. The string height at the nut is very close as well and the intonation isn't too far off either. Since the neck is a compound radius (10"-16") I set the radius of the saddles at 17" so it would just continue to flatten out. Once I got used to the narrow nut width of the sotck neck I liked how this guitar played pretty well but this is light-years better IMO. SO worth it for me.

Here's a quick update on the project. I got the decal on and the finish on the headstock done. The neck is on and I only have some minor setup stuff left to do (string height at the nut and final intonation...). Once that is all done I'll probably do a quick polish on the frets but, it plays pretty well as is! I think the decal came out looking fantastic! I only ran into two problems. The first was the decal tore while I was getting it placed. Fortunately, it tore exactly between the words "James" and "Tyler". If you look close you can see where the alignment shifts just a touch between those two words. I tried to get it lined up exactly but the adhesive began to set so I figured it was close enough and didn't want to risk ruining the whole thing. The second was the mounting holes on the neck. I was expecting to have to drill one but wound up having to drill two of them. The two at the base of the neck were fine but both of the other ones needed new pilot holes. Not a big deal really but a different experience that I had heard others reporting with the Warmoth necks.

It begins... Warmoth vintage/modern neck, CBS era headstock, indian rosewood fretboard, stainless steel frets, compound radius (10"-16") abalone inlays...

I've always just left the cabs on and I haven't noticed it sounding muddy at all.

What I usually do is, in preset mode, I run the top row as presets and the bottom row as stomps. That way, when I have to turn anything on or off, I just program them into those four switches (I rarely have to turn more than four effects on/off in a song...). If I have a song where I need access to all ten, I just hit the mode switch. It's been working really well for me so far.

I love my Helix through the PE60! I know it's not anywhere close to FRFR but I just really like how it sounds. I'm actually thinking about picking up a second for running stereo.

Is the only reason you can't do the custom tunings because you're on the older firmware? Did you try it at all with the current firmware?

I was thinking the same thing! Although, I have a big gig this weekend so any updates wouldn't be until after but, it sure would be nice to get back to El Cap!

I bet this was one of the main considerations for putting 4 effects loops in Helix. We can have the best of both worlds.

Good grief! All of the hipster guitarists must be crying over their (insert your favorite boutique jazz master/offset guitar brand here...)!!

Ah, I missed that bit.

Variax?

I'm actually considering picking up an HD bean to use for some of this stuff. It could also serve as an emergency backup should (God forbid) anything happen to my Helix. I just wish the bean had MIDI IO. That would make it perfect!

Just came across this video of a guy mounting his Helix to a flatboard with the dual lock. https://youtu.be/x-XgSK0a44E?t=5m31s (little bit of language for those of you who may be concerned...)

This is wonderful news!! Can't wait!!

One package was enough to hold it secure. I ran two strips on the bottom of the Helix longways and that was all (probably could have used four smaller patches on each corner but...). I tested it holding my flat board upside down and Helix didn't budge. To remove I just slid an old credit card in between the dual lock layers and started prying (gently so as to not damage the dual lock...) to get it apart. It's not SUPER easy to separate it but it wasn't too difficult. I don't have any pix of it. Eventually, I decided that the flatboard and the case I had it in was just too cumbersome and I wasn't using the extra expression pedals as often as I thought I would to justify carting that behemoth around all the time. Now I'm using the Helix backpack and I'll just grab the extra expression pedal (or pedals) as I need them for a specific gig.

I didn't have to add anything as a riser and I didn't remove the feet. That dual lock is just thick enough to make a good solid contrast between the Helix and the flat board. I just long strip along the front and a long strip along the back. It was perfect AND it's easy to remove if/when you need to.

I guess I've been getting lucky then because I haven't had a single issue with mine. Not that I'm complaining! ;)

FWIW: I've been using it live since I got it right after the release and haven't had this issue at all. I should note that I don't a ton of switching during a set though. I usually only use 2-3 presets at most the whole time. Lot's switching effects on & off but very few patch changes.

I'm not sure if this has been asked before or not but I'm curious. I know that the HD editor allowed this and I'm hoping the Helix editor will as well. Many times I'm working on building set lists and such on my lunch break from work and won't have my Helix available. It would be great to be able to rough edit patches while I'm away from my Helix and then fine tune when I'm able to get connected.

Linc also uses (or used...I know he HAS a Helix...not sure how soon or if it'll become his main unit...) the HD500 because he wanted us regular folks to have access to the same kinds of tones he's using (from the gear anyhow...you STILL have to have the hands...that guy is a monster player!!) without having to shell out thousands of dollars on gear. For the second DSP path, all you should need to do is set the output of path 1 to go to the input of path 2. I believe there is even a template in the factory presets set up for this (I think it's called "super serial" or something like that. The main patch I use is set up this way and it's working perfectly.