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johnbeamon last won the day on July 17 2018

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About johnbeamon

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  1. I'm trying to decipher some of the vocabulary people use around Sag, and how they configure other params like tone and volume around changes in Sag. I understand that higher Sag replicates a lower-voltage behavior in the power section of the amp. It causes an enhanced power section breakup associated with EVH's "brown sound". I've heard different YT artists say that sag makes an amp more "spongy", more "dynamic", and "warmer". In my mind, spongy and dynamic are opposite terms. I typically expect an amp to get a little louder when played harder, and I find Sag eliminates that entirely. I'm missing the term "dynamic" used by people like Rhett Shull and Rick Beato. When I add Sag to a Helix amp, I get more breakup and a distortion that is brighter and crunchier, NOT warmer. I know one artist who raises Sag in every new preset by default. I like the sound of his presets online, but I hate the sound of higher Sag in my own equipment. I just feel like I'm missing something. I don't find Sag makes amps more dynamic; I find it compresses against volume jumps. I don't find it makes them warmer; it makes them notably brighter. When people start using holistic phrases like "it opens up" or "the tone is richer", I can't really judge those. But I can judge that my own Plexi in my own FOH disappears into the mix when I raise the Sag, at all. I've heard Tim Pierce compliment the way a Park starts to sag when it's pushed, and the stock P75 block disappears into the mix where I play. Rick and Rhett did a Marshall+Variac video and talked about the tone getting better, richer, warmer, when it wasn't clear in the video. They talked at once about it being compressed and being more dynamic, which are opposite terms. I feel like I'm taking crazy pills and missing something important. I'd welcome some sort of tone-related feedback, maybe with references to sample sounds online. Thanks.
  2. This is not permanently solved. I was able to import all my setlists again. I was moving things around. About 40 slots at the bottom of a setlist started displaying random characters, both in Edit and on the device. The paste operation failed, saying "No symbol lookup table for models and parameters". This has failed both importing a setlist and importing a folder of individual patches. It's actually getting WORSE, an hour after it rebooted all clean and perfect. My last effort to import some patches made the Helix screen light up blank white and Edit report Service is not online (code -8207).
  3. I believe I just SOLVED this bug. I worked around it for awhile, but it blocked me from doing a cleanup and reorg this week. In only one setlist, slots 28A to 30D were corrupted. HX Edit could not export them or import or paste new presets into those slots without crashing the Helix and requiring a reboot. I could Save another preset onto a corrupted slot, though. The contents and name displayed on the Helix showed Fender Blah Blah, but HX Edit showed New Preset and no blocks. Both Edit and device were on 2.82. Just for kicks, I deleted my HX Edit install (macOS) and reinstalled it from .DMG. No effect. I exported all my other setlists to backup. I had to export this setlist's presets a few at a time and folder them. I rebooted with 7+8 held to reset all presets to factory. THAT DID IT. I was able to drag-drop and copy-paste presets into those slots again.
  4. I've had a Shuriken about a month now, and nobody's responded to your thread. I hope this is useful. I use mine all the time now, and NEVER on the mag pickup like I thought I would. I'm constantly matching song keys to convenient shapes like E or drop D, and the tuning engine only affects the modeling pickups, not the mag HB. The guitar was designed to tune a 27" scale to E standard because the higher string tension improved tracking and reduced noise artifacts on the piezo pickups. The length raises the tension by about one pack size, like tens to elevens. I've found 27" strings physically easy enough to stretch, but that I seem to have to move the string farther to get a 3-fret rise than I did with standard length. Visit http://stringtensionpro.com/ and use their app if you want numbers. You can choose your usual pack of strings, then change the scale length to 27.0" and see how much the tension changes. I started with tens at standard length and found strings to approximate that tension on a 27" drop-C instrument. (Hint, elevens plus a 52.) The palm muting is just fine, probably enhanced by the string scale and contruction. The models are really good. The modeling engine is by Variax and is the same tech in all Variax models. The difference between Shuriken and, say, a Standard or a JTV-59 is in physical construction. The Shuriken and all the Strat models have 5-way selector switches to choose among the five models in the "Les Paul" bank. But, the JTV_59 requires a 3-way switch and a second push-button to access the same five models, because it's a Les Paul style guitar and people balk at a 5-way switch. I found the Les Paul humbucker models were the loudest pickups in the collection, naturally. I used Workbench HD to raise the output of the Tele Thinline pickups 3.5db and all the lesser pickups and the acoustic instruments about 5db. I did that because if I ever have a failure in the Variax board and finish the set on the Shuriken's HB pickup or one of my other guitars, the gain on my FX will be calibrated for HB pickups. I know, "change the one instead of all the rest", but it made sense to calibrate all the virtual gear to my physical gear. If you want to play silly banjo songs and jazz, check out what Frog Leap and Twelve Foot Ninja are doing in live shows with a pair of Shurikens onstage. If you've moved on to something else or bought one already, then use whatever you found useful. That http://stringtensionpro.com link was an awesome find for me.
  5. After I informed Line 6 Support that their referred vendor didn't carry any Shuriken parts, they were kind enough to send me a knob. I got it this week.
  6. This is a new VDI cable, Line 6 brand. It had about ten hours of use, including 5 minutes before this Helix command failure. The battery was leftover from a previous set. The manual does not contraindicate leaving the battery in with the VDI cable plugged in, even if it's disengaged.
  7. You've misunderstood my situation. I'm only using VDI; I never said I was using a 1/4". There's no mention in the manual that having the battery in while VDI is connected is "potentially harmful" in any way. It was leftover from a previous set.
  8. My Helix (2.70) had snapshots designed to select models on a Variax Shuriken. It worked for hours of practices and rehearsal during the week. Sunday morning, it worked for two run-throughs and one church service. I rolled the volume down on the Shuriken and disengaged the Variax knob during each break, and battery was charged to 4 dots. Middle of second service, the snapshots would no longer force model changes. The display for "Preset Variax Model" showed the cursor moving back and forth along the "values" line, but the label never changed from "R-Billy 3" and the instrument sound never changed. Tuning select DID remain functional. I tried moving to a preset that didn't use Variax, turning the Variax model knob off and back on, all to no effect. I finished the set choosing models with the knob. After power cycling the Helix later, this feature worked again. Is this a known issue? I'd be relieved that it's no more "broken" than a power cycle will fix, but I know power cycling during songs is not standard behavior.
  9. I bought a second-hand Shuriken with a cosmetically damaged model select knob. Line 6 directed me to Full Compass for parts, but they don't carry Shuriken parts. They just carry JTV and Standard knobs, which don't have the Custom I-IV and Shuriken model banks. Does anyone else have a resource for Shuriken parts? You can rebuild a JTV from bare wood and parts, but there doesn't seem to be any supply chain for Shuriken repairs a full year after release. Is lack of parts going to be a serious problem?
  10. Line 6 support already agreed to send me a replacement nut. I wasn't sure whether there was a surface mounted ring or not.
  11. Okay, as a first-time support customer, where does one make a "ticket" here? Never mind, I found my way there. THIS should be more prominently linked somewhere. https://line6.com/support/tickets/
  12. Bought a JTV 59 online, missing the "Rhythm/Lead" cream-colored ring around the toggle. That apparently has the threads that keep the toggle attached as well, because it's loose in the compartment. How can I get a replacement?
  13. This suggestion seems obvious, but I don't see it being said. You can also rename presets arbitrarily. "Save" your Lonestar patch for Mustang Sally, edit the location to be User1->05A or whatever, and change its title to "MstngSly-Lnstr". Set the delay and vibe times to match the song's BPM, name your snapshots V/CH/BRG/Solo if needed, and Save again. Then save a copy under User5 with that song's title and BPM preserved for future reference. Next time you do Mustang Sally in a set list, copy from User5 by name. Eventually, User5 has 128 of your song titles in it. FWIW, the "setlists" can be renamed as well. My "User5" is now called "Preset Archive" and contains only the generic "gear" names, and my other lists have more specific purposes. All this would be even more awesome if the "setlists" were actual setlists with pointers back to locations in Preset storage. It does become a pain when you need to fix reverb on all your songs after a firmware update.
  14. I've heard this answer is "no", but it's still a valid question. I downloaded some custom tones and found all the snapshots were special effects, not basic, usable rhythm tones. I didn't realize and didn't read in the patch's notes that all the regular snaps were concealed by me being in 4/4 mode. 8 snap display is a great idea, but it's heavily dependent on the player having strictly organized music. I occasionally add a lead boost or a delay to whatever snap I'm currently playing, when the moment inspires me. Moving to 8 snaps to accommodate some downloads would be a complete style change for me.
  15. My DL4 had a dot-8 on one button and a quarter on the next button. My M9 had one on A and the other on B. In both those form factors, you could enable/disable and switch divisions automatically with only two buttons. Helix doesn't have those three functions as readily available for people who play Stomp mode and jam on the fly. I'd like to be able to link two footswitches as a toggle-bypass group like this. A for Minotaur, B for Timmy, selecting inactive switches between them, selecting active bypasses. We can do this with snapshots, but not on the fly.
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