theElevators

I find that volume boost doesn't always achieve perceived loudness. I prefer my own method of adding an 10-band EQ right before the speaker cabinet and boosting 2K frequency from 6--10 db. That's my own method, which I've used for around 10 years. The frequency is not necessarily pleasant, but very harsh and noticeable. So when I do this, my solos cut through. I have a rundown of one of my presets that uses this EQ trick. See link in the video description to hear what it sounded like live. Another method outlined by @rd2rk also works. I sometimes I need to boost my solo sound for certain sections, so I do the same in addition to the EQ.

It looks more robust on the Stadium. I think the main thing that caused breaking on the LT is stepping on the pedal to switch between EXP 1/ EXP 2. I personally avoid doing that and have never had an issue with my 6 year-old LT. There are ways to switch on the wah without stomping on the pedal by using the percentage engagement, or to have the wah enabled in certain snapshots only. While it's a workaround, I personally prefer these methods to turn on/off wah as needed. find that the EXP pedal always requires too much force to accomplish the switching, and it's a lot easier to do what I described, to me at least. I even found a way to disable the switching all together for live use by connecting a short 1/4" cable from the external pedal jack to one of the send jacks so the switching is disabled, thus short-circuiting it and having Helix think that EXP 2 is connected (while it's not)--so the switching is disabled. I never had a use case to need to switch between the two expression modes for my very involved presets. In some presets I used the same expression pedal to control different things depending on which snapshot I'm in, for example: delay, reverb, wah, panning. All in one single preset.

You can give Line 6 a call. I've done that in the past after a horrible experience with the authorized repair shop. They opened a ticket for me over the phone, and I was able to add more detail to the ticket afterwards. The whole issue was swiftly resolved for me. So you may try that. I don't know your financial situation, but I got a second Helix shortly after buying an LT, to use as a backup. Every serious musician must always have a backup for such situations. Good news is that the LT is pretty inexpensive nowadays... In terms of reliability of an LT, in my experience the unit is quite solid. I bought a used unit and the expression pedal is working fine after 6 years. I do not stomp on it, however, meaning I do not use the footswitch to change between EXP 1/2. That may explain why my pedal is still intact. If it ever broke, I'd take the unit apart, remove the pedal and velcro a small expression pedal in its place.... In terms of the tap tempo button not working reliably, it's the tactile microswitch inside that gets gunked up. You need to have these microswitches cleaned with DeoxIT from time to time.

If you have completely different guitars with completely different outputs, then the only way to make them all sound the same is to use an EQ to compensate for the differences. That's what ZZ Top tech did--he dialed in different EQ patches, so every guitar sounds like Pearly Gates. In practice, it's a good idea to use similar guitars, for example Strats/Telecasters, and compensate for some differences. Every guitar does its own thing. I find that the Helix is not as forgiving when it comes to these guitar differences, as a real analog tube amp would. In my case, I play gigs with 2 Brian May guitars and a Strat. Strat and one BM guitar have the same output level, but the other BM guitar has weaker output. I figured out how much I need to boost the signal for the weaker output guitar to make it match the others, and I do one of these: 1. If I decide that my main guitar will be the one with weaker outputs, I just add a gain block to boost the signal by 3 db in the beginning of the chain in every preset. For my backup guitar, I know where to put the volume knob, so the output would be the same. For example rather than putting the volume knob on "10", I'd have to put it on "9"--problem solved. 2. If I decide that my main guitar will be the one with the more powerful output and I'm on a wireless, then I don't have any gain block in the beginning of the chain (obviously), and in case I need to swap guitars, I can just boost the signal level on my Shure wireless unit. 3. Or I keep several copies of my presets: one for the weaker, the other one for the stronger guitars. They are all identical except the first gain block. 4. There is a way to create a preset that will work with several inputs. Watch my video to see how to get that to work. It all depends on your workflow, but it becomes a giant pain if you have to go through 20+ presets in one show, and you are deciding on a whim to use one guitar vs. the other one. You may want to invest in an external EQ pedal, since the Helix does not have such a thing as a "global gain/EQ".

I have the same issue on a Mac. One time somebody sent me a set list backup, and I actually crashed my Helix so it would not start when importing a set list. Never doing this again. What's worse is that I could only bring the Helix back to life with the help of a PC laptop. The Flash memory utility did not want to install/run on Mac. Wasted several hours on this ordeal. I have never had any issues when doing a full Helix backup backup/restore. Or when restoring certain set lists from the backup.

All digital processors today do this, except Kemper. Even the Helix, unless you enable gapless switching, where you sacrifice one of the DSPs. Line 6 Helix, Stomp, Pod Go have snapshots aka scenes, which allow you to have gapless switching within a preset. (Not sure how Kemper figured this out though, where you can switch presets and not have silence). The reason is that the preset needs to be loaded into memory. That is just how it is. You can tune your playing so that the gap is not as apparent. Or upgrade to use the Helix where there are snapshots that offer gapless sound switching.

I think the days of rack effect units are over. Or let's just say it's not so popular. There is no Headrush rack version, no Quad Cortex rack version, etc. I've seen a rig rundown for Megadeth, and they are on Quad Cortex, which are placed into drawers, and they manage. But then again, Line 6 released the Helix Rack later, after the Helix. So maybe it will happen. Who knows? I personally like how Fractal FM9 is laid out: you can use it as a "rack", because you can connect a remote to it: a 12 buttons, screens, etc.. That is the best of both worlds, IMO. My perfect processor would be something like an FM3: 3 buttons only, but with all the power of a full-blown unit. So I could take a small box to a recording session, or connect a pedalboard to it and expand on the number of switches. Oh well.

I don't think it's worth the trouble to replace the button. If it's bothering you so much, you can buy a white fine marker, re-trace where the lettering has faded. Use a marker like this maybe? https://www.amazon.com/LMMINBZ-Acrylic-Permanent-Waterproof-Painting/dp/B0D1YSW17D Wait a day. Then apply a thin layer of clear nail polish. wait a few hours, then reapply. Or some kind of a varnish. Honestly, it's cheap Chinese stuff, buttons are not going to last forever. I don't have that problem because I use a computer for editing most of the time on my Helix, and I don't need to press "Home" at all. Some people have acidic sweat. Good luck!

Is it rebuilding presets, by any chance? If not, return it, it's not right.

Yes it is possible. See my video, and pinned comment for the global settings to restore from. And feel free to subscribe, I have lots of useful hacks on my channel. Enjoy!

It's better and easier to just use whatever is on the Helix. I've found some workarounds for the issue you are trying to solve. I use snapshots exclusively, and have a preset per song. 1. have redundant snapshots. If I need only 2 sounds in the whole song, I create snapshot copies, 6 out of the 8 snapshots are my "rhythm" snapshots, and 2 are my "lead" snapshots. That way I can slam on any one of the snapshot "copies" to go back to the rhythm sound after taking a solo without standing like a statue, carefully aiming where I'm pressing. No shoegazing :) 2. I rehearse the sound changes at home. Oftentimes if I keep missing and pressing the wrong button in certain scenarios, I reposition the snapshots: swap them, and create additional copies. If you have 4 buttons to do the same thing, it's more difficult to miss, you know? 3. I disable the up/down buttons LT or Floor with a hack, demonstrated here: https://youtu.be/UTQ8wJaXZnc?si=PzUePqH5mlqzSsl0 As somebody who wears size 13, I used to have issues switching my sounds incorrectly early on, but with practice today I rarely have any mishaps. When I toured, our stage presence was very active, lots of jumping and moving around, and no issues. I realized that redundancy is key. Making my board idiot-proof is also key. Helix has a lot to offer, and lots of buttons, but in reality most songs I've played require 4, sometimes 5 sounds tops. With having redundant duplicate snapshots, I am less likely to miss, and invoke the wrong sound. I also rely on visual cues, and add dummy blocks to further dummy-proof the live playing experience. Watch my video of various tricks, all combined into 1 video: https://youtu.be/o0S6WNKXQKc?si=s-uSHz5eDWdPPR0P

Try factory presets. Do they sound normal? If so, it's user error on your part. I would give this a try, first if you haven't already.

If you want to get it fixed, the only people who should touch it are Line 6 directly. Mail it to them, after opening a ticket, and they will fix it. Not any authorized repair shop. Don't even attempt having your local electronic shop fix it, you'll be sorry.... Speaking from experience. Or alternatively, disable the tap tempo light entirely and live with it. I disabled my tap tempo pretty much right away, because I find the blinking to be distracting. I have no problem tapping in the tempo when I need to. And most of the time the preset and snapshot are already saved with the correct tempo. cheers!

If you just want to add some pre-recorded loops, I recommend adding a "return" block. Connect your pedal to the "return 1" jack. Add "return 1" to the end of your chain somewhere, so it's mixed in with everything coming before it. When I played in a power trio + vocals, I've done this gimmick where I played organ pads, instrumental passages from the looper.

I've used graphite spray on it, and it has been very solid and non-sticky for 3 years now. Do it at your own risk though. I didn't disassemble it, just sprayed at all the points where there was friction.