theElevators

I have a Thon case for my Helix. They are good cases with 2 minor problems: the feet need to be glued in properly, otherwise they will fall off (easy fix). The other: on the old Helix, the case is upside-down. When you carry the Helix, its weight rests on the foam where the space is cut out for the cables. As a result, the weight of the Helix bends that plastic fooam, and the Helix slides down, further damaging it. The handle should have been on the other side of the Helix. I solved this on mine by gluing an extra piece of foam to support the weight--easy.

Not a bug. That's not a label problem. Helix Command Center allows your layout to completely change when you press one button in pedalboard mode, whatever you set up. If you have "10 button stomp" enabled, you have 10 custom layouts at your disposal. When you press one of the buttons in pedalboard mode, the rest of them can be completely repositioned -- snapshots/stomps/preset up all of them can be placed in a completely different place. You can even have multiple presets that connect to one-another via these buttons. It can be confusing, but is extremely flexible. I never ever have the need to change my layout based on a single button press, so when I use Command Center, I re-save the same identical layout multiple times. You need to go into HX Edit, Command Center, and go through all the 10 buttons and make sure the correct snapshot/stomp is displayed. Press first button, go through all the 9 remaining buttons to make sure that their action is correct, save. Then press the second button, etc. So you need to do this 10 times potentially for each of the remaining buttons. So something like 100 updates :) Have fun.

Re-soldering new LEDs is a very delicate hard job, and most "authorized" repair shops will not bother with it. I sent mine to Line 6, after opening a ticket, and it was repaired promptly. To fix it, you need to re-solder these delicate microscopic LEDs to the PCB. This type of work is not something most DIY-ers can do either, you need proper equipment, or else you will break everything. Not to mention disassembly/reassembly which is a giant pain in the .... If your Helix is like 10 years old, you should just consider getting a new one. Because it won't be worth it, if something else breaks while you have fully-functioning LEDs. Just my opinion.

You've answered your own question. Pod Go does not have every block due to limitations. If you want to have feedback onstage, do what I have been doing for a long time, long before the feedbacker was even available in the Helix:

No, presets cannot have custom LED colors. Only snapshots and stomps.

This has bee posted before. In summary: 1. when building presets, make sure your overall volume for a blank preset is around the same as the actual preset you are creating to avoid clipping. 2. set up XLR volume to be Mic level and disable the volume knob, so it's fixed. This will go to the FOH and will never change the level, because you don't want to confuse the sound guy by having different volume levels. 3. use the volume knob to only control 1/4" out which is your monitor mix, or in my case which is going to a power amp (Mooer Baby Bomb) into a 12" speaker cab.

Pretty sure you can use a dummy block that does nothing and bypass-assign it to a footswitch. Then set up the amp switching that will be like "opposite" to the switching of the dummy block. You can assign multiple blocks to one button, something can turn on, something turn off, you know? So the light should work correctly now.

So on the Helix you can split the main 2 paths to have a total of 4. A good way to run 2 signals is to use the main "guitar" input for the melody and a "return 1" for bass. Then you can use the pan block at the very end to pan whether the signal for the bass or melody side comes on the left/right or in the middle. And also do the same for the additional "wet" path. I'm not exactly sure what you mean by "only repeats" coming through on the other side. You can take the delay and set the mix parameter at 100%, so you will be only hearing the repeats, and not the signal. Same for reverb. All you would need to do is split the signal path for the melody, add a delay block and then add panning exactly how you want it. Route all 3 paths so they all are individual in their last "pan/mix" block. Multi = the signal comes out of XLR, 1/4", headphones, etc. In my example the top path is for melody, middle for repeats, and bottom path for bass. You can mix all 3 however you want and pan it however you want. See the last free block that says "MULTI", where you can modify those. So hypothetically: melody is on the left, melody delay repeats are on the right, and bass is on the right.

Polytune would be sweet too. BTW, this is a page for the "legacy" Helix, not the Stadium.

As I've also mentioned. A few times for me a preset would become "corrupted". The only thing to do is to recreate it from scratch, then it would start behaving normally. You need to get to the bottom of this by recreating the preset, one block at at time, then try the experiment again. If a preset is corrupted, then expecting it to work properly is just a waste of time.

Try to save to USER 2 from the Helix and see if the same issue happens. Press "Save" on the Helix itself, select USER 2. This way you will see if the issue is with the Helix or HX Edit.

Do you have Snapshot Edits setting set to Recall BTW? I've had issues with parameter assignments completely not working when editing one preset, it would affect the other, etc. The issue for me was on 3.15, before I downgraded to 3.11. And now I'm on 3.7.10 -- no such issues for me there. Maybe it's a new bug with HX Edit on Mac or Windows. What happens if you save to a different setlist from within the Helix? Simply press save, and select a different setlist. Also, sometimes presets become corrupted as well. I've had this one preset that just had a different gain compared to the others. I checked one block at a time, recreated it, and the sound was back to normal. I haven't been able to pinpoint what exactly was different, but I had to basically recreate the preset from scratch, so it would start behaving correctly.

What version of the firmware are you on? Sounds like a recent bug from around 3.15. If you haven't updated your HX Edit / Firmware, you should do that. This sounds like an HX Edit bug!

I'm sure there will be software updates for the next 5 years at least! I'm more worried about HX Edit not working on future versions of Mac OS, rather than the Helix not having some esoteric glitchy fuzz effect. But I'm sure there are workaround for those situations as well. Worse comes to worst, I'll just keep using my old Mac Mini, which is currently hooked up to the TV to watch YouTube without ads. IMO, the Helix Floor/LT are a complete package, a mature product that to me does not need any other additions. I've gigged with them happily for the last 6 years, and will continue to do so. I'm considering buying another backup Helix, once the price drops further, and if I'll be playing more guitar again...

locked up, as in it won't turn? Try liquid DeoxIT. Pull it off, then add some so it drips down the shaft. Or if you have it in a can to spray, that should work as well. I've also used WD-40 for buttons/knobs of various devices that corroded and wouldn't press/turn. For example, my coffee maker, pool heater on/off switch... I'm not kidding, in a pinch, try it, but don't use too much. But DeoxIT is a safe product, that fixes all sorts of issues, and it's non-conductive, just like WD-40.