SaschaFranck

You couldn't have less of a clue. But that's almost business as usual here.

Reasons. Valid reasons. Which I even explained.

So what?

You're actually right, I just tried. That's pretty lame.

Line 6 hardware is notoriously failing. The Helix Floor is STUFFED with cheap components - and yes, that's a fact, nothing I'm making up.

It is. Opening it shouldn't be the biggest deal and I may try it before selling it (which is now a definite thing to happen somewhen this year). For the upcoming gigs I'll just grab my Cry Baby. Just don't assign the switch, easy.

Must be a hardware issue. In case I step on the pedal like a mad elephant, it's working. Didn't use the toe switch often at all, so this is really bad. Last piece of hardware I ever purchased from Line 6, that's for sure.

Tilte pretty much says it all. Anything I could do about it? Fwiw, I knew this would happen one day, got harder and harder to switch. I can still feel the switching impact, but the switching itself simply isn't happening anymore. As there's no calibration functionality or anything, I'd guess it's a hardware issue - any tips would still be welcomed!

Still getting these constantly. And once it happens, not only HX Edit craps out but the Helix itself is freezing in, requiring a reboot. Never had this happen with any earlier FW version. I'm seriously considering going back to 3.1. Fwiw, I'm on macOS Mojave.

Fwiw, on topic: It's a pretty decent idea to *always* make sure to not turn on most electronic/electric devices directly after them being exposed to huge temperature differences (as in "from cold to warm" - the other way around is way less of an issue). Anyone wearing glasses surely knows what I'm talking about. Walk into a warm room from outside in winter and there we are - all condensed water. With larger surfaces, of course depending on general humidity and temperature differences, you might even see real drops. Not exactly the kind of thing you'd like to have insde your precious new gadget. And fwiw, I think it might've been the very reason back in the days for our singers amp to blow up. Traveling for hours in winter, quite late to the gig, so it was amp out of car trunk, straight onto the stage of a pretty warmed up club, immediate soundcheck - *blam*. Not sure it was condensed water, not too unlikely, though.

Even without any sense of humor, I'd say I'm still aware of the differences between "package" and "content".

Not that I think I did, but it's still likely. If anything was ever cast in stone, it'd be that Germans have no sense of humor.

So you ordered a Floor and got a Stomp delivered?

As much as I'd like to support this, I'd almost take a bet it's impossible. From all I know, the input pad is a fixed additional resistor on the analog side of things, controlled by an on/off switch rather than through an adjustable pot.

3.15 is really getting on my **** already. I'm getting "Timeout waiting for a response from device" messages pretty regularly from HX Edit - and once that happens, the Helix itself will freeze in as well, just a reboot will help. I can often only "hard kill" HX Edit as well, CMD+Q in 50% of all cases doesn't do anything. Sometimes rebooting just the Helix fixes this, sometimes I need to restart my computer. The Timeout message has got to be kind of a joke, too - because even when the message is displayed, the Helix continues to work as an audio interface. Getting this around 2-3 times a day, depending on how long I'm using my stuff. Highly annoying.

Guess we strongly disagree here. As you say, when you turn up Sag, the amp will also compress more. And more compression rarely results in a tighter hard rock sound. That's why modern high gain amps used for styles where tightness is a must, usually offer loads of headroom so their power amps always stay clean and don''t produce any "sag" - hence resulting in the tightest possible sound. A "sagging" amp may feel more dynamic but it's certainly not more tight. The Helix models prove that quite nicely. Turn up sag and you'll get a sort of squishy tone - which, don't get me wrong, could be just what the doctor ordered, but it's certainly not what you want for tight rock tones.

Well, there's actually a few "good" things to say about hum, such as it masking dynamics. Whether you'd need that in a guitar amp is highly debatable, though.

As said, the snare is NOT a Helix thing (I wish it was), it's a plain sample. In my example, just the kick is coming from the Helix. Patch is attached (and I played it with a thumb slap on the completely left hand muted low E string). I think I have added yet some more low end EQ for the recording but didn't save the patch afterwards. Anyhow, this patch is close. And IMO it's really nothing special anyway. Make sure to not blow your speakers, though, so don't play normal things. Kick.hlx

Hum and Ripple are the first things I turn down completely, they don't serve any purpose than simulating what would make me send my amp to a service in real life. Bias can do quite something, it does occasionally help me to tighten up an amp (or soften it, which I usually don't want). Bias-X is something I only notice differences with when turning Bias itself way up or down. And that's it for me.

And fwiw, given that apparently (at least according so some L6 folks) sliders are the hottest thing ever in editing software, how comes this editor is full of knobs?

Hm, mobile device editing apps... now where's those for the HX series?

I think a Hotrod Deluxe III or IV would do. And in case people want to "see" more from an amp (which they obviously and stupididly seem to), maybe consider a Marshall DSL40CR. Both of them do a pretty decent job in taking whatever it is on their power amps. You can still "fake" 4CM (apparently that's what those folks like), just connect everything and don't activate the loops within the Helix. That way you can likely keep your patches intact. Just deactivate the cab/IR and do some finetunings to accommodate the speaker of the used amp.

Nah, you can get plenty of low end oomph without any pitch shifting (and you won't have to deal with all those pitch blocks' latencies). This is just a quick'n'dirty attempt with the patch being created out of nothing in a minute or so. The snare is a real sample. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1hQgBgLfvUpp6xFzB8sPPjlVTwIwFt14f/view?usp=sharing

For a kick, start with the Autofilter and maybe send it through a bass amp model. Don't pick any notes but dampen the strings and slap with your thumb.

Doing it pretty much every bit the same as during the last 30 years (or thereabout), just with a lot more comfort and flexibility. 2 channel setup with modifications for each channel, lead options for each, adding a handful of FX for flavour, done. Fwiw, I have been a 3-channel guy for a while but noticed that 2 basic channels would give me as good results with less hassle while possibly even sounding more homogenous.