egkor

Short answer: Yes. :)

Hi @wolbai, Thanks for replying, very useful information! I understand you to say that: 1) You record with a "dry" guitar track, which can be "wetted"/tweaked as desired after the original recording. 2) You run 60% on the DT50 Master Volume, and choose a Topology IV/4 (rather than default Topol. II/2) for the Marshall Plexi. I did listen to your track in your OP, I really like your tone and the flavor of your music! :) I have a POD HD500 and DT50 (I updated all to latest firmware) and am just starting to explore all the possibilities. I first happened upon the Park model (in the POD HD500), and after a bit of tweaking was impressed at the tone of that model. Thanks again for your help!

wolbai posted earlier: The Marshall Plexi is REALLY shining when played with a DT-50 / DT-25 IMO. The original amp (100 watts) starts to break up only at very high volume levels. With the POD HD Master volume control on FW 2.20 this could be done on pretty much lower volume levels without too much negative impact on the tone. Hi @wolbai, 1) With your POD HD500 patches, when you go from recording with a patch to playing live with your HD500 and DT50, do you change anything in your patch? For example, when recording do you use a "full" amp model and then for the use with the DT50 alter the patch for "pre-amp only" (since the DT50 provides the power amp portion)? 2) Regarding the DT50, firmware 2.20 and DT50 Master Volume (for nice breakup at lower volumes): When you use your POD HD500 with your DT50, what setting do you use for your Master Volume on your DT50 (and Volume setting on your HD500)? Thanks!

Thanks @Digital-sound! I've learned a lot reading your other posts about the system. Thanks to all the positive replies, I'm at the point now where I intend to march forward with the m20d and 2x L3t. Thanks again to all!

Hi @litesnsirens, I want to keep the system Line 6 for at least what I've managed to assemble at this point (m20d and 2x L3t). Your and others' posts are helping me choose to keep it that way, justification as you mentioned in your post. Thanks for posting, it is good insight and information!

Hi again Everyone, Wow, Thank you! I appreciate your responses! I am still undecided about the Line 6 speakers (L3ts), and I knew that staying all Line 6 would be pricey (it is what it is), going in. I do have a return period, and that will allow me to do some additional investigation. Thanks again!

Hi Everyone, After being a Line 6 customer for tools other than Live Sound/PA, after research and reading these forums, I went ahead and purchased a m20d and 2 L3Ts. I currently use a simple old-school Yamaha powered PA head (MX512?) and (2) Yamaha passive speakers (SM15V) for mains/monitors. My needs are: 1) Solo acoustic guitar/vocal, would use single L3t 2) Duo acoustic guitar and keyboard, vocals, would use L3t(s) w/ m20d as acoustic guitar and vocal amp system with one L3t configured as a single main, the other L3t configured as a monitor 3) Classic Rock full band, acoustic and electric guitar(s)+male/female vocalists+drummer with electronic drum kit, would use m20d and both L3t(s) as FOH, with a feed from the m20d to some other monitor system My question is this: Does anyone use the m20d mixer with other brand powered speakers for mains/monitors? I am aware of the virtues of the L3t's: Line 6 Link, scalability, integration with the m20d, self-configuration, etc. !!!! --->>> But, I could also save a significant $ amount if I went with other brands' powered speakers for mains/monitors. I haven't unboxed the L3t(s) yet, I was wanting to ask this question first and see what feedback I received, knowing full well I'm asking this in a Line 6 StageScape/StageSource forum. :) Thanks!

NICE American Strat @lasvideo! -Gary K

I just obtained a Line 6 expression pedal to use w/ a POD HD 500, having 2 physical pedals available for use. My original reasoning was one pedal for volume and one pedal for wah. Here this dual amp volume control solution is another good use for 2 expression pedals, one that I will probably put to use. -Gary K

Thank You! I will study the info in the steps you listed and give it a go. Thanks for taking the time to gather and post this info! -Gary K

It sounds to me like a power tube went out, and that blew a fuse. As I understand it, there is more than one fuse. I will have to let someone with more knowledge expand on that. -Gary K

I am just starting the Tone Quest with recently acquired POD HD500, DT50, and plan to use my Variax (JTV-69 and V500) and Std Strat. I am not new to Digital/Modeling. But I still see a lengthy learning curve ahead of me to get the HD500/DT50 set up, tones found and presets created. From the analog world I already understand pedal train order and placement with both individual pedals and digital effects boxes. What I'm saying is: I really could use a Guide to help get best integration, set up, settings, and preset creation of at least the POD/DT portion of the Dream Rig. I have not found a single source of info (single doc) yet, just pieces/parts scattered across the user guides, forums, and possibly YouTube. Whoever could help with this (and I would volunteer to help) would be accorded Hero status. This info collection could be as simple as a Stickey Forum thread. Just one place to look. TIA, -Gary K

I went there and read through it. Here I can only comment on length of time in repair. It would depend on how good the repair facility is, how available the replacement parts are, and the nature of the original issue (intermittent or constant). For a gigging musician this could be a financial loss to be without the amp for days/weeks to service center. Even for amateur musician, not fun to be without amp. Are still in original factory warranty? -Gary K

Brazzy, Why do you have to take your amp in (I assume for service)? What happened? Thanks, -Gary K

DarrellM5, Good Job! The M-Audio Uno looks to be a USB/Midi interface that has a reputation for working with the DT amps and Monkey, and DTEdit. -Gary K

Reverse the Midi connections at the back of the DT just to see if that changes anything. Won't hurt to try. I downloaded DTEdit (link from a sticky forum message) and verified that DTEdit could see see the DT, and I could make a change on the DTEdit screen (like Pentode to Triode for example), and also see the DT respond via front panel. Also to flip the switch on the DT front panel and see the DTEdit screen update. Once I saw that I knew I had the interface connections correct, and that Monkey should have worked. You could have a bad Hosa USB/Midi interface. I think I would suspect that before the DT. I used a M-Audio M-Track as a Midi Interface (in place of the Hosa I had been trying to make work) and the firmware update went flawlessly. I would not trust the Hosa. Also I put the DT in Safe Mode when I performed the firmware update, which is: DT Power off, Channel Select A/B switch - Hold down to Channel B and turn power on, hold at Channel B for approx. 15 seconds, then let go. DT Midi will respond to firmware update with a "good" USB/Midi interface. Firmware will flash and process will reboot the DT along the way. -Gary K

It showed both transmit and receive, but still no joy. Make sure your DT Midi Out is to the interface In, and DT Midi In to the Interface Out. -Gary K

The Hosa USB/Midi interface cost me several hours and the firmware update to fail w/ my DT50. Use a known good interface like the M-Audio Uno. -Gary. K

Update: Joy! The update to 2.0 firmware to my DT50 worked! On the first try! While waiting on the M-Audio Uno to come in, I had an opportunity to try a M-Audio M-Track Audio/Midi (USB) Interface. The M-Midi portion of the M-Track worked flawlessly. Here is a summary of what I used and what I did: M-Audio M-Track (comes with USB cable) Host Computer w/ Windows 7 64-bit 2 Midi cables, connection as follows: DT50 Midi Out to M-Track Midi In, DT50 Midi In to M-Track Midi Out I downloaded and installed the drivers for the M-Track for Windows 7 64-bit from the M-Audio web site Made M-Track (Windows) settings as shown in the (downloaded) M-Track User Guide. Powered up DT50 in Safe Mode. Safe Mode is: Hold the Channel A/B switch down to B position, turn the amp power switch from Off to Power while holding the channel switch down to the B position. I then let approx. 15 seconds go by, and released the channel select switch. Ran DTEdit to verify connections. Changed Pentode/Triode switch in DTEdit on the computer and saw the DT50 reflect the change on its front panel. Ran Line 6 Monkey. Monkey came up recognizing M-Track Midi as the device interface. Monkey showed Current Firmware=Unavailable, Selected Firmware=2.0 I selected "Update From File", and browsed to the v2.0 firmware file I had downloaded from Line 6, selected that file. After accepting the various prompts and panels, the firmware update started! And ran without error! It seemed to take approx. 5-10 minutes to complete the flash, with the amp restarting once in the process. After the update, Monkey showed Current Firmware=2.0, Selected Firmware=2.0 -Gary K

I am doing something similar with recently acquired JTV-69, POD HD500, and DT50 (Head) units. Congratulations on your Dream Rig! I actually look forward to the exploration and learning curve. This is my second time around with Line6, I had gone through all the learning and configuring and had used a original Variax (v500) and a POD XT/Live for a while. I still have the original Variax, obtained a JTV-69 and am going down the road again. My idea is to do the firmware updates first, then do the tone-chasing. -Gary K

Thanks for your input! Update: Since the issue was solved once in the past by replacing the Jack assembly, I'm going to try that. I have a replacement Jack assembly on order from Fullcompass, I will change this out and repost with results. -Gary K

Hi, Recently obtained a new DT50 Head. I assume since new it is probably at a firmware version < 2.0. So since I could most easily get a USB/MIDI interface that is a Hosa USM-422, I have been trying to use that. It is very similar to the M-Audio Uno USB/MIDI interface. So after several hours attempted I cannot get the Monkey firmware update process to proceed any further than: Failed, Code: 8000000A, undefined error I have tried: Using different Windows computers (Win 8.0 and Win 7) Using different computer USB ports Check Control Panel, Device Manager, in "Sound" there is a "USB 2.0-Midi" entry Have run the DT50 in both Standby and On, and Safe Mode The driver for the USB/Midi Interface is the standard Windows driver, so special driver needed Have uninstalled/reinstalled the standard USB/Midi driver, unplugging and reconnecting the Interface to USB to let the computer detect it and install the standard driver Am pretty sure the Interface Midi cables are connected correctly to the amp (Amp Midi Out -> Interface Midi In, Amp Midi In -> Interface Midi Out) I observe the lights on the Interface, I am getting "power", and data going in both directions (if I reverse the Midi connections at the back of the amp then I don't get this far) I have downloaded and installed "DTEdit", and I can see that if I make a change to "Pentode/Triode" in the app then the amp will respond and switch. Likewise if I change the switch on the amp, the app will update to match I have downloaded the DT50 firmware update files 1.10, 1.20, and 2.0, and tried Monkey with all of those I registered the amp with Line6, so no stoppage there So I feel like I have exhausted all the possibilities/combinations of things to try. I am guessing but the likely suspect causing the firmware update failure issue is the Hosa USB/Midi Interface. So now I'm going to return the Hosa USM-422 USB/Midi interface. I have a M-Audio Uno USB/Midi interface on order. At this point all I know to do is to try is a different interface. The main reason I put this post out there is if someone else is struggling with the DT firmware update, maybe this will help save them time, and show what "not" to do (try this first with the M-Audio Uno USB/Midi interface). -Gary K

Ahh ... I see! No, the battery was not in the JTV when I powered it via the external power supply. Thanks again, -Gary K

Hi, what I'm pointing out is, the issue is not with the external power chain itself since it successfully powers the JTV. It is pointing at something about the Variax 500 not working with known good external power, but working with battery power. Now if you are asking if I tried the V500 with external power connected, and AA battery pack installed, no I have not tried that yet. But what I want is for the V500 to work solely when connected to external power. Thanks! -Gary K

Hi, I have a 2005 Variax 500 that has an issue that has reappeared after having it fixed once in the past. The issue is: When connected to external power (described below) the sound/signal output of the Variax goes on and off (or cuts in and out), approx. 1.5 seconds "on" and .5 second "off", over and over. Like this: Sound, no sound, sound, no sound, etc. Could be that the power input is cycling, thus causing the sound output to cycle on/off as well. Not sure of root cause. The V500 is connected to external power ("by the book") via connection as follows: Original Line6 120VAC to 9VAC Power Supply (PN MW48T) --> Original Line6 Switch box --> Original Planet Waves TRS cable --> V500 Jack Plate The 1/4 inch out of the Switch Box is connected to a guitar amp, powered on, and ready for play, the Switch Box footswitch is toggled to "1/4" (output to the 1/4" Jack then to the guitar amp), the Switch Box "Power" Light is "lit" confirming external power to the Switch Box. Additional observations: 1) With 6 AAs in the battery pack installed (and no external power), V500 output connected direct from its Jack Plate 1/4" to guitar amp 1/4" via regular (not TRS) cable, the Variax works normally. Issue appears to be related to external power. 2) For exactly the same issue, approx. 3 years ago, I took the Variax to a local Line6 recommended authorized service location. After diagnosing, Auth Service said the issue was with the Jack Plate. After paying for parts and labor for them to replace the Jack Plate, the Variax worked for maybe another 2 years, now it has the same issue all over again. 3) When the Jack Plate was replaced by Auth Service, the part they installed looks to be the same Jack Plate part as is used by more current Variax (rather than like the original with the "boot" cover). The replacement Jack Plate is the newer version that has a trap door over the Ethernet port.(PN 50-04-0181-4 Full Compass). 4) I recently obtained a JTV-69 Variax (on my way to the Dream Rig!) and verified the same original external power configuration works properly with the new Variax. So here I am now, same issue as before. I prefer to power the Variax via external power. I can risk the approx. $30 US for the part, replace the Jack Plate myself, and hope that fixes the Variax (again). I can't remove the Jack Plate from the JTV and try it on the V500 to see if that fixes it before I order a replacement because it appears the JTV Jack Plate is a different part # than for the V500. I am surprised because I seem to be the only user this has happened/happens to. Also with the revised Jack Plate installed at the first repair, I could not have thereafter accidentally shorted anything because the Ethernet port is covered by the trap door. Is anyone familiar with this issue? Any advice/wisdom WRT this issue? Thank you, -Gary K