egkor

Could someone point me where to look to turn off the 2.5 WIFI and go with the 5K WIFI setting? I have the Apple Airport (2nd gen), a iPad 4th gen, the Airport iPad utility, and the iPad m20d utility. It all works and connects, I just want to turn off the 2.5 WIFI and I can't find the place to do it! :) Thanks in advance!

Back then with all-analog amps you could get away with the Variac/etc. Todays amps esp. w/ digital on board, no way.

I would suggest trying things for yourself and see what you like, if you can do it that way. There is goodness in the DT25 combo with the matching cab. The combo gives you a open-back sound profile, and the cab gives you closed back performance (I think more "thump"). Combined it should be killer. There is another poster here that uses 2 stacks (combos on top of matching 1x12 cabs) and reports "awesomeness". :) I purposely went with heads and separate cabs, I use Marshall 1936 2x12 cabs, I just like the tone I get from them with previous brand heads, and now with the DT-50H and DT-25H. Just try it and see, let your ears be the guide. Factor in transporting, the combo+cab (and even just the combo) could be really easy for that. The DT-25 combo does have some weight, lift one and see for yourself. I think I could be very happy with one. Added edit: Oh, I realized you could probably do the DT-25H (amp head) + DT25 1x12 cab (one or 2 cabs). Now *that* would have its own brand of awesome as well. This would make each piece its lightest weight for transport.

Amps of old didn't have Master volume, only "Volume" or Channel Volume. In other words those amps act as if, if they had a Master vol, it would be maxed, and the Channel Vol would control everything. An amp like a Fender Twin (at 85 to 100 watts depending) would likely stay clean until REALLY loud. I think *that* might be the idea behind topo 1, just a clean and potentially clean+loud tone. I have an old (early-mid 60s) tube Ampeg Jet combo amp (1x12) with 3 knobs: Volume, Tone, and Tremelo (rate). With 2x6L6 power tubes, its probably 25 watts or so. I have to crank the Volume to get it to break up, and by then it is loud. You couldn't do this with a Fender Twin at 85-100 watts without bleeding from the ears. They are all about clean, and loud and clean. I don't know if this helps anything, just felt like posting it. :)

After lots of "combo" amps of various brands and weights, I determined that for me the seperate head/cab was "it". There is a lot of flexibilty in this. Now I do like the idea of a DT25 combo stacked on a DT25 1x12 cab. This gets you a combination of an open-back cab and a closed-back cab in a nice killer looking (and probably sounding) stack. Also each piece easily manageable, nothing overwhelming or too big and heavy. "The Bomb" would be 2 DT25 combo+DT25 cab stacks, matching, in stereo. :o I'd like to get to that someday, I could do it with what I have (DT50H+cab, and DT25H+cab). I only have time to understand and deal with the simple configurations (1 amp/cab at a time).

Wow, as an owner of both a DT50H and a DT25H ... I have to say Thank You! to all posters with the great sharing of info on tubes, bias tips, issues, solutions, and user experiences. When the time comes that I have to replace tubes, I will definitely use the info shared in this thread as a guide! All the data you all share does make a positive difference for the user community. :)

Yep, its got to be a USB/MIDI interface that connects USB to your computer and MIDI to your DT. M-Audio Uno has worked for forum users. Make sure latest drivers are installed for it. With all the connections made, DT amp "on", run "Monkey" on your computer, Monkey should see the DT via MIDI, allow you to download the latest firmware, and update the DT. If its working it will take a short while, this is good sign. Then the DT will restart and come back up with the new firmware.

It would be nice to know what's in the Tech Bulletin since it applies to all DT amps, new/used.

Ok to ask? Where can I find this Service Bulletin? I have a DT50 head.

If it is a blown fuse, then there was/is a reason the fuse blew. Most common (IMHO) is a bad power tube. If you replace the fuse and it blows again I would first replace the EL84 power tube pair.

Hi, To remove the amp from the chassis, here is what I would do: 1). Unplug the speaker cable from the rear (the 1/4" jack connection), simple. 2). Lay the amp down, front facing down. 3). If you remove the 4 bolts from the top of the amp, the chassis should become free of the cabinet. I would have a pair of hands hold the chassis in place while the second pair of hands removes the bolts, just to make sure all is well. 4). Assuming the chassis is freed and will come out of the cabinet, then take care not to touch any exposed circuitry inside the chassis, there could be stored electric charges in there with regard to the power supply area. Removing the chassis should be fairly easy, just go slow, take care, and also take care not to drop tools/etc. on the speaker (its backside) while working with the chassis in the cab. Hope this helps! Edit: You might want to remove the speaker from the cab to keep it safe while the cab repairs are going on. Should also be simple to remove and reinstall.

Short answers: The click/pop issue sounds tube related. Possibly best to replace all (and re-bias the power tubes) (EL-84 x 2) to go to a known starting point for your tube set. Monkey will not see the DT unless connected via USB to MIDI. And you could have a previous version of the DT firmware in there, but I don't think it is a cause of the intermittent noise. People here have had success with M-Audio Uno USB to MIDI interface cable. -Gary K

That is good news!

Nothing "preset" is transferred from the POD HD500 to the DT amp. What's already present in the DT is what gets used, preamp audio (in digital form) coming from the POD, power amp settings from the POD, but power section audio (analog) from the DT.

Short answer: Presets are not saved from the POD HD500 to the DT amp.

I just used the following at a small outdoor gig (playing mostly classic rock): DT-50 Head + Marshall 1936 2x12 cab, Variax 500 (the original Variax), POD HD 500 (connected to DT-50 via L6 Link) I set up 3 basic patches on the HD500/DT-50: clean/Strat, crunchy, & lead, those got me through the gig amazingly well. I am very happy with the tone and versatility of the POD HD500 + DT-50 (+ Variax 500).

Hi, 1) I don't see a picture attached. 2) Are you connecting a (known good) XLR cable using L6 Link "Out" connection from your HD500X to L6 Link "In" on your L2M? -Gary K

I think the idea DBoomer is floating is: To send your non-functional (NF) m20d back to Line 6. Line 6 would send you back a refurb'ed (functional) m20d immediately. The m20d you sent in gets diagnosed & repaired, and becomes part of their "refurb stock" for shipment to the next customer that sends in a NF m20d. -Gary K

I would be happy with a refurbished unit at a faster turnaround (than repair of the original). Many thanks Don! -Gary K

Hi, May I ask: How do you use your system? Live sound for band, pre-recorded dance music, size of room, number of people, etc.? My take is this: Without understanding the what/how/where (etc) you use your system, it would be hard to say if extra sub(s) are needed beyond the 2 you have now.

Hi again @randychesbro, Who is "they" as you keep saying "they" said the L3t crossover was manually adjustable (like the EV models). Thanks and I do wish you well with it all.

Which (not Line 6) sub do you have?

What will make it work out for you is: The non-Line 6 powered sub should have a crossover built in that passes only the "higher than bass" frequencies on to the l3t mains. You would connect in this order: Mixer -> Powered sub -> l3t

@DarrellM5, Here is a link to the FC page w/ the part I ordered for my V500: http://www.fullcompass.com/product/431850.html I have received the part but have not installed it as of this date/time. -Gary K

@DuekDuek, Could you return the l3s for a refund? I don't know protocol outside the US, but is there a Line 6 Customer Service contact where you are? if the product is new and defective and if you have a return privilege, then I would want it replaced or I would return the defective unit for a refund. I don't think your dealer is servicing you well on this. Just an opinion.